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Road Race setup/ Track pics
This is one of many past track days in preparation for SRX in the not-so-distant future.
If anyone has anyadvice for a track setup with an S13, advice is welcome, but please dont come on here and tell me how to drive and that there is one way to setup a racecar. I have been researching the setup, talked to many true race car drivers and builders at the tracks and shops. I knwo what i want and i know what i need to put all the power down. But for now, these are just some fun pics :-D view with non-race wheels on http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg front shot http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg My oil cooler off of a small Piper aircraft (4x4x6 bisches) http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg Nice rear shot http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg Switch Panel and Gauges http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg Dirty Interior http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg My setup may not have the best suspension, or a ton of power, but i can deff. say its got enough power and good enough handling on the road course to make me happy, and to keep away from the mildly modded Evo's I rewired the entire car to a Painless Switch panel, eliminating what seemed like 40lbs of wiring. I gutted the entire interior of the car (except the tar sh#t). I removed all the PS elements, and put in a breather system to keep the rack lubricated. A catch can was installed instead of the tiny filter most use. The car is setup for reliability, and ease of repair. Racing puts alot more abuse on an engine than any other kind of driving, because its so prolonged. |
Dirty Interior
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg Back seat & Battery http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg S14 seats, and Manual seat belts (note the "oh [censored]!" handle) http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg Fuel Pump wiring & Battery http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg Engine bay...something is missing? http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg What fuse box?? http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg What Relay box? http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg What Power steering pump? http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg OH!!!! Thats the sandwich plate...i had it all wrong before http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg nice lil side shot http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg Stickers me thinks http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg Interior shot...again http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg Leave comments here, track pics will be up soon. Suggestions are welcome, although not always takin :). This car has been to VIR, Mid-Ohio, Summit point, and soon to have driven Beaverun raceway labor day weekend. Each event i get a lil faster, each event i get a lil more confident pushing the car harder, each event.....i wish i had wider wheels than the 300zx rims with Falken Azenis i run now. |
FINALLY TRACK PICS FROM BEAVERUN!!!!!
ENJOY!!!!!! http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg also rebuild pics will be up eventually, as soon as my parts begine to show up....just basic new seals and rings, but alot of aviation engineering put to use on reassemly of this road course engine.....track abuse has rattled stuff loose over time, but not anymore once im all done with it. :) |
awesome project. i assume you know this, but just in case, aren't you supposed to have the headlight cover on there to compete in srx? what do you plan to do about that?
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one suggestion that i give a lot of people w. gutted interiors would be to put some padding on the drivers door where your arm may hit bare metal in an accident. i learned the hard way at Sears Point when i got pushed off track during a race and my arm banged up against the door. got the scar as a daily reminder.
in regards to setup. (i know you already know this) it all depends on your suspension/tire selection, drivers taste/style, track and track conditions. there's just too many variables to just throw out a setup. just set the ride height (corner weights) and camber/toe settings to something very neutral and adjust to your liking. i'm sure you know what you're doing on track and will know if the car is handling evil. good luck. avoid the red mist. and remember at the end of the day it's all about having fun and being able to drive home. |
My setup is all based on my lack of funds for now...
but my future setup over time will consist of: *suspension - Buddy Club Race Spec Dampners *Wheels - 5-Zigen FNO1RC 17x10 *Tires - Toyo RA1 275/45R17 *Power - 370whp at 16psi (not going to let out my power setup tho) *6pnt cage - weld in custom fitted to me *interior - Sparce EVO2 seats, all mechanical/electrical gauges. (no stock) And as for the headlight..Ill be putting the cover back on eventually, as soon as i can switch to the DOHC front bumper with a nice lip, so i have somewhere else ot put my oilcooler (passenger side behind vent). all ducted prettiness off those vents and turns signal locations. The oil cooler will have a scoop going to it after the winter season, as a temporary thing but fully function to bring my oil temp number downa lil bit. I have read the rule books for SE-R SRX, NASA CCR quite a bit, but for now, HPDE's will be my main priority until i get to the competition level. We all know, nothing can replace seat time, plus i need to progress with my car slowly, as of now im outdriving my suspension and tires, so i upgrade tires now, adn suspensioin and wheels when i can afford them. Being a full tiem college student going for a bachelors degree, fundign this expensive hobby is much harder then most think, 21 credits per semester puts a nice lil dent in your funds. Thanks for the questions guys and the advice, btw...the doors are covered now, with aluminum falshing. Kepp all questions and comments comming, ill answer everything to the bets of my ability. |
I have a question for you. Which Painless wiring kit did you get and how long did it take you to wire it up? I'm having some wiring problems right now with my car and I'm seriously considering picking up one of those kits so I can fix it, and to get rid of the fuse boxes and excess wiring. I have a base model s13 as well and my headlights are welded up so I don't have to worry about having a function for the headlight motors.
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i picked it out of a catalog at an A&A automotive here at school, a guy there gave me a discount. Its a 6 switch panel, 1 momentary start switch, the other 5 switches are fused. The fuel pump fuse is wired to the ignition switch, so you can run the fuel pump with the ignition off. The actual part number im not sure of. Its a panel for a drag car basically, or a Universal setup.
Time spent.....wow......i actually couldnt say, i spent a rediculous amount of time stripping the stock chasis harnmess down to just the fuel pump/gauge and brake light wires. And even more time designing the circuits that i used for Starter, Ignition, Alternator. I had to read over all the gauge cluster BS wiring diagrams extensivly to findout which wires i had to keep to keep them runnign andlit up, but get rid of all the stupid warning lights in there. Mostly it was time spent tracing wires through the factory harness, strippin git down to nothing and reading almost all the wiring diagrams for the systems i wanted to keep or wire in. Overall time was about.....2 weeks or more while having a full time job. |
I was under the impression you bought a painless wiring kit that comes with all the wires and fuse boxes as well as having that switch panel. Where did you put the stock fuse boxes and relays?
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"Where did you put the stock fuse boxes and relays?"
In the garbage where they belong 1 fuse for ignition (ECU power) 1 fuse for fuel pump 1 relay for fuel pump thats all of it.....and the 2 fuses are on the switch panel, just like in the picture, and the fuel pump relay is in the trunk. i have no stock funtions, no blinkers, no headlights, to back up lights, no radio, no retractable seat belts, no horns, no fans, no AC, no defrost, no more anythign, car had absolutly no wiring in it for about 2 weeks till i finished making my own harness the painles s kit is a switch panels with 18' of labeled wire comming out of it for each of the switchs functions or what ever you want them to do. I integrated that with some of the stock wiring and everything works great, its been runing electrical problem free since June |
impressive. I'm about 20% done with doing almost the same thing, well a bit more lax. I'm just taking out interior wiring and such, but I make up for the weightloss in other places. Gutted doors (metal is cut out), no windows (i have 2 sets of doors), removed the tar, no dash, no ceter console, no carpet at all, no passenger seat. The shit I've taken out of this car is rediculious. I would venture to guess that its sub 2200 range. I still need to get it weighed. I lost somewhere near 40lbs a door with the metal, motors, and glass. Fuckin great! Good work man!
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my car with it down to how it is now..weighed in at 2400 lbs ona 1/4 tank of gas, I know the door metal weighs a bit, and so does the tar, but i can honestly say i dont see these cars getting under 2300 lbs. I know i can get down close to that, after i remove the tar, go carbon fiber hood, take out my heating systems that doesnt work anymore, and gut the doors. Then the cage im getting will bring me back up to 2400lbs, and i wont see weights less then that. There are people who claim to be under 2200, unless you have staretd cutting metal from inside the car and running it ghetto as all hell, it just cant happen, keep it clean and functional and safe while also making it light.
My car was weighed on Longacher scales at Beaverun 2 weeks ago (FR-750lbs, FL-750lbs, RR-450lbs, RL 450lbs), my corner weights arnt exact, but to the best of my knowledge that was the weight bias. Truck stops dont count as scales, very inaccurate with low weights (like a car compared to a tractor-trailor full of shit)... |
That oil cooler can't be doing much. If you need an oil cooler, an upgrade is in order because honestly that one won't cut it. You'll also have to locate it in an area that sees more airflow through the cooling surface.
I don't see anything really wrong with your battery placement, but it's a bit high. Other than that, it's over the axle so it doesn't really increase polar moment and it certainly helps f/r and l/r weight distribution. Since the car seems to be a purpose-built track car, why not put the battery lower, like in the passenger side rear footwell? That way your polar moment is decreased by a pretty hefty amount, not to mention your cG will go down a bit. You'll lose a little bit by way of rearward weight bias percentage but the l/r advantage will stay the same. What are your alignment specs right now? It seems like you're having rollover problems with the tires despite the fact that they have stiff-as-hell sidewalls. What pressures are you running cold? |
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A base model s13 coupe (no heavy hatch glass or sunroof) with no bumper supports, sound deading stripped, backseats removed, no AC, and manual belts comes in at about the mid 2400's. You are saying your car is 250-300 lbs lighter than that because you removed your dash, your door glass, and side impact beams. See where I'm going with this? Stop dreaming. |
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All questions are welcome, but please read a little everyone before you tell me what you think i need to change, or look at the pictures a little more closely. I dont like repeting myself too often. Almost all the answers these questions are in the pics or already responded to. Keep them commin if i dont have anything on it tho..... |
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flybert please leave bickering with his FS ad, i dont want a fued here wasting space. I already said i dont htink it can ever get that light, and i have actually weighed my car on good scales, not just a hunch, 2200 would leave the car undriveable, and deff not safe to be in while driving it. |
Just a side note, a complete S13 door will weigh in at over 60 lbs. A stripped door with latch and outside handle is under 10 lbs. The impact beam is 3/16 steel and is probably about 25 lbs. That oil cooler needs to be relocated also, air just skims over the top. Think of the air as really stubborn. If you don't pimp it as hard as possible, it won't do what you want it to. Give it no other choice but to go through your cooler. That location would be fine if you made a completely sealed duct from the lower bumper up to the bottom of the cooler.
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im making a scoop from the top, itll attach to the hood and force air down through it, and ill duct the air back out the bottom for now until i get to my other setup. I have gone over the relocating of the cooler later in my race setup many times, pelase read over them.
The door situation is, most racing series dont let you remove the main door support, unless its AutoX, because of other cars on track, id like my door to have some ability to stay togeather if it gets bumped. I am moving at speeds more then 2 times that of the autoX 240 guys, so havign a waeak door is not somethign i suggets to people in road racing unless you have a full cage. And personally, i dont see any of the guys here making their doors as light as possible using a roll cage or door bars for that matter. Ill take out the windows and such when i get my cage in over the summer, but until then i need it there to brace myself till i get seats which ids after the cage for safety issues. As light as possible is not always the best decision, like i said before as long as its safe i support the dea, otherwise dont argue it here. |
PEOPLE READ ABOUT THE OIL COOLER STUFF IN PREVIOUS POSTS!!!!!
LOOK AT THE PICTURES AND READ BEFORE YOU MAKE SUGGESTIONS!!!!! its the same stuff over and over....... |
im assuming you're running n/a 300zx non staggered wheels correct? (16x7.5 45offset). What size azenis are you running? I haven't road raced on my new tires yet, and because of hte hurricanes haven't even been able to autox on them either, but I run 255/40/17 falken azenis rt615s all around on 17x8.5 wheels w/ 25offset and find they stick very well. Just curious how they'd hold up on faster courses (90plus mph)
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120+ mph courses :) (fastes course i was on, im guesstimating i was up around 140mph) The Azenis Sports hold up you just cant expect them to be 100% once they heat up or if its a hot day(Hot day = 120 deg track temps). I slide every single corner, not alot, but enough to get me through them with out sliding off track. Ive driven the car hard enough to anticipate the slide, so i turn in early, and teh car slides around the corner to give me the better line at high speeds, but thats not the way to do it. Oh and i cant accelerate through the corners, ill spin out in a heart beat, so im only on teh throttle like 30% until i wind out more, then i can get on it more. I have heard alot of good things about the 615's but never got to run them, im moving right up to 225/50R16 Toyo RA1's for next season, i need the traction badly, my track times will drop dramatically if i can actually accelerate through the corners, a 1/4 sec each corner cut off is alot in the end of a bigger track, because itll change my exit speed and my overall top speed down the straits.
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You made the classic mistake. You went for power and ended up forsaking the chassis. Now you complain that you can't go as fast as you want. Suck it up and realize that it's your own fault. That's my opinion of your setup. The race car guys you talked to didn't say a negative word because they were being polite. I guarantee they looked at each other after you left and said "what the hell was he thinking, doing power first?" There isn't just one way to set up a race car, but undertiring the car is certainly wrong. By the way, 225s won't cut it. You'll need 245s or bigger. I hope you aren't incredibly fond of stock bodywork. |
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wow.......i didnt go for big power, 230whp is hardly big, im not complaining about any of it at all so there is nothign to suck up. I enjoy every second on track with an underpowered wide tired car or an overpower undertired car. And telling me the race guys were talkin shit behind my back, not cool. I ask for advice they give it to me, real advice not the BS your posting. :) you obviously dont understand tires that well, its not the size of the tire that means everything, teh Falken Azenis Sports that i was runngin are not enough now on teh track, when i was not moving as fast as i am now, they were enough, so now it is time to upgrade to only a slightly larger tire....but a different compound. The Falken Azenis are good track tires for an underpowered car, but th Toyo RA1's are a DOT approved R-Compound tire, MUCH different chacteristics than teh Azenis, MUCh better in every single aspect except wear maybe. a 225 wide r-compound tire with 230 whp will be plenty until i can afford to go with the suspension, wheel and tire setup i have planned for competition. There is no need to tell me to suck anything up or deal with anything, i didnt critisize you at all when i responded to your post on here, simply explaining the setup. At least do some research on the tires i have on the car and the ones ill be running before you say one wont be enough for a certain setup. Or find out exactly what true race car builders have told me before you tell me they were callin me stupid for the order i did things. There is no eed to be so defensive, its ok, just make sure you know exactly what is expected of a race car and a budget and when you do finally know, deal with it. |
I have played around with my alignment for the last 3 years, as of now I only auto cross, but here are my specs...
The car is a 91 hatchback, w JIC flta'2s 7/5kg/mm spring rates. 15x7 + 0 offset w/225/45/15's victoracer's (econo racers!) White line sway's front and rear with custom fabricted spherical endlinks (BTW the endlinks make a huge difference, much much more predictable...). 50% spherical bearings 50% poly... (soon to be all metal) Front camber) 3.7 negative ___ rear camber) 2.3 negative ... I have never been on a skid pad, but tire temp's are pretty even. I think you will need more or less camber depending upon Tires, and wheel rates. I have heard of other's running 5+ degrees up front and 3+ in the rear, but that effects braking. Front toe) 1/16-1/8" toe out helps turn in, makes the car much more responsive. Rear toe) 0 degrees__ I tried a little toe out a couple of times now, and the car is way to unpredictable, I don't recomend it. Toe in will help the car get the power down and help stabalize the car. I tried up to 1/8-3/8 toe in, which definetly stabalize's the car, but I like my car fairly twitchy for auto X'ing. Well thats my setup, hope that helps -Jason M P.S improvedtouringforum.com- look in the nissan section... thoose guy's know about the 240...Bob stretch did well with his 240 in ITA. You really need spherical bearings all the way around if you want to be competitive, reducing suspension bind is a big deal with 240's. (we have lots of bushings) Stretch ran on Advanced design double adjustle struts, with I believe GC's. Some (and possibly most) of the ITA guy's run without a rear bar, they say it make's the car more predictable... |
anmd now ill respond to all the lil things...
the oil cooler was free and will work just fine no matter what, its the same design as any other oilcooler, just 3x as thick. Current placement is becasue there is no other location with the bumper i got from the junkyeard that is on the car in the pictures, when i get the 91-94 bumper ill move the cooler to a better location, since i am moving at over 120+ mph on the straits of some courses, the cooler will get more than enough airflow over it. Cooler explained. I DO have an upgraded suspension that works good for track time now, due to my limited budget. Traction is not the blame of the suspension, but the suspension and tires, i carry alot of momentum through teh runs and the suspension comrpeses alot(even tho its set to full stiff) , causing the body to roll and the tiures to be pushed a little further then they can handle. Which will cause the tire to flex, the Falken Azenis come with a very stiff sidewall, but with all the weight and momentum being forced to that corner of the car, its causing the tire to flex. I will NEVER strech a tire on a rim to reduce tir flex on the track, i dont care what anyone says, its not good to strech a tire ona track car, maybe a drift car, but not on the track, id rather use the tire to its fullest potential. Tire flex and suspension explained. I dont HAVE to have negative camber, with a basic stock style suspension setup, im unabel to adjust camber the right way for a track car, which elminiates the possibility of using a basic camber kit, pillow-ball mounts are the right way to do it, but those are comming with the coilovers ill be getting in the future. My tire pressure is at 38psi hot, cold makes no difference becasue the tires are never cold when your on track, an person geared as much as yoruself towards suspension should know things like this. 40psi is suggested hot, but i prefer to run 38psi, the 40psi made the tire a little to hard for my liking. Last but not least people..please knwo your info before you come on here telling me myse setup is wrong or i shoudl ahev done it thats or that way before, my budget is limited, so mods are limited to the not TOP-OF-THE-LINE products, deal with it, i did things in a specific order and will continure to do things in a specific order as my available funds come in. Keep questions comming, but please dont critisize my responses when i tell you how its setup ,or why its setup a certain way. I tell you why and you get defensive, no reason for all that just because its not your way. I apologize for my rant if it makes you angry, but i feel its neccessary because of the last poster getting all defensive and snappy with his response to my response. |
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I like your setup, only thing is i havnt heard many good things about the JIC coilovers, but thats all i ahev heard, no experience here. I have never autocrossed, but i know the low speeds and sharp turns require a very touchy suspension setup. I plan to go with adjustable links with bushings, i need the bushings to absord some stress from the road (being that some courses are rougher than others). I havnt planned to run as much negative camber as you, maybe -2 deg all around. and for toe in/out, id like them at 0 becasue of the long banking turns i dont need the tires fighting each other at all for the speeds im moving at. I have talked to a few ITS or ITA guys before at VIR, most of them ran a basically stock setup, with coilovers and pillow ball mounts, but im not sure about all the links, i never had time to sit down, they were busy prepping the car for the races or qualifying track times. They are good to talk to about the ideas of the suspension, but i cant relate to them 100% because i plan to push more than twice their wheel HP once i get to comeptition, which means i need differnet breke, and tire setup then them. But their knowledge of suspension has been and will be helpful. Thanks for your advice and setup of your car, good reference, thanks jason. |
I think your off to a great start! Thanks for sharing your project online! I really enjoy folliwing projects involving 240's that actually see track time. keep us updated...
Why are you going with the Buddy club coil overs? Are they valved for race tires? I was told that none of the JDM coil overs are properly valved for race tires. Even the Zeal super functions say recomended for semi slick use. I ended up going with the Jic's and they are amazing!!! Much better then my old KYB AGX RSR race spring set up, there was not enough travel up front I think I was riding the bump stops through the corners. I still think the GC's and advanced design option is the way to go, if you can afford it. double adjustable shocks are nice. -Jason M |
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I would have to agree with you though on power before setting the car up correctly. I am a much better drifter today than I would have been if I started with a high horsepower car. My car has a completly stock ka and I am doing almost everything before I do my swap and even after I swap the sr it will be almost completely stock with a stronger clutch and some bolt on's I would lots rather carry a lot of speed and be full throttle than have to modulate the clutch and throttle through the entire drift. edit: go bigger than 225's you will regret it otherwise. With a stock ka I can spin 225/45-17 mich pilot sports all day long especially 2nd or 3rd gear drifts. if you want grip go to 245/45-16's |
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I chose the Buddy-Clubs because i know alot fo Honda/Acurs guys that run them for road racing, and the shock dyno charts proved that there are big difference between all the settings on the shock. BUddy Club has been involved in road racing for years on end in Japan and in the US, they have the reputation I needed to decide on what suspension to use for competition. They are valved stronger then most other shock, and the added bonus, they have US distributor that can rebuild teh shocks in teh US in teh event of a blow out, i dont know anyother company that does that with "JDM" products. I hope the JICs were better then the KYB setup......much more going on, KYB is very basic, but i would nto consider it good for track use at all, after all my track time on almost the same exact setup. Everyone i know tries to suggest certain setups for my grip racing when compared to their drifting, its much different setups going, you guys want everythign as stiff as possibleso itll slide, i need mine to give a little or absorb a little so itll stick. |
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I never plan to go wider than 275 all around, i make my own fender flares that rivet onto the existing fenders and give me an extra 1.75 inches of clearence on each corner to fit the 17x10's with the 275/40 series tries i plan to run for competition. I used this car as a daily driver for about the past year driving to school work everything, I did the power because my first 240 had a blown motor so i swapped this in, then second 240 i got (this one) had a blown motor and a melted fusebox, so i fixed all that and slowly it got to the point is is today. I did mild suspension with grippy tires for how i have been driving on the track. I moved the tries up form the old ones i was driving on before, everyone seems to think that extreme traction is teh way to go with a track car, but to learn the car you have to actually learn what it can /cant do with or without traction. the small tires i used for the 4 track events this past year worked great, i dont complain, i simply say they werent enough for me to do my best. I am upgrading to the 225/50R16 Toyo RA1's, they are an R-COMPOUND TIRE!! VERY sticky for the track once heated up, i am not ment to go 100% throttle through every corner at every possible second, that not how you road race, so i dont need a relly wide tire yet until i upgrade my power some more. Drifting a a 245 tire is alot different from gripping with an r-compound, as around at race shops about r-compounds, for a car with my setup 225 is fine especially for the rim size i have (16x7.5). At the shop by me, some guy boughta 240 all setup for grip that came with brand new Toyo RA1's 245/40R17's, he traded them for soem used tres with far less traction so he could drift the car beasue the RA1's are way too sticky for drifting, so you need to realize that you 245 pilots are less sticky than my 225 RA1 R-Compounds, so a comparison cant be made between the two. DRIFTERS PLEASE READ UP ON R-COMPOUND TIRES BEFORE YOU POST ABOUT MY TIRE CHOICES!!!!! SPECIFICALLY "Toyo RA1" TIRES!!!!! |
Can you share the shock dyno of the Buddy Clubs? Can they be rebuilt/revalved in the U.S.? When you turn the knob, are you adjusting both compression and rebound?
Sorry for all the questions. It's good to see people out there doing track days with their 240's. If you have a choice between throwing money at suspension parts or seat time, the seat time will always pay off more, it seems like you are already doing this!! I have run 17x9 with 265 wide r-compounds and 15x8 with 225 wide compounds. I decided to stick with the 15's and 225's due to how the car responded so much crisper with the lower CG and less rotational weight. Of course, I also got better gearing (Only 156whp vs your 250hp) with the 15x8's so that was another deciding factor. |
That oil cooler man... oh.. man.
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Shock Dyno: http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg Because ill be running bigger than stock brakes, and around 350whp for competition, i need at least a 275 series tires, and i cant use slicks (Hoosier track tries are not allowed) and the next best thing allowed in my class is the Toyo RA1's, so those in the 275 and no wider since i cant run wider than a 10" wide rim according to class rules for SE-R Cup SRX. more more needs bigger brakes which needs bigger stickier rubber. What kind of track stuff have you done jmauld? |
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i do however wish to see more pics of the car in your Sig...if you dont mind giving me a link or just posting more pics. |
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The fact that the Buddy Clubs only adjust rebound is very encouraging. I'm going to give them a call and see how much a rebuild cost is. |
I was just joking man. I saw that it was posted like a million times.
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I'm giving up on you. Lost cause, because you won't listen worth shit. Not only do you have no idea how much track time I have, but you don't know what my current profession is. |
if you ahev all this track time and a job doin i dont knwo what, then you shouldnt be telling me tire width makes all the difference when compound wasnt ever brought up on your end. I said what i was going to do with my cooler numerous amounts of times, but you never read before you posted. And the chassis first before power, i explained myself, you jumped down my throat before asking me why it was setup that way instead of that i was all kinds of wrong. I felt it uneccessary to ask you anything about what you can do when you come on here and just bash the mysetup and assume people talk crap about me. If you have anything useful for me instead of just sayin that what i have is wrong then speak up instead of giving up. I dont wanna sit here and argue all day, id rather have good input from people then just stubborness.
I listen just fine, just not to people who say my ideas are bad without asking why i did it that way before hand. If you dont have anything productive to say to me from here on out, then just dont bother. |
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heh, instead of -2º of camber, you should try shooting for more than -5º. the Stretchmobile still holds many track records for an ITA car, and he was running far more than the usual camber... which brings me to the next point. If you are serious about racing, and/or winning Spend money on a good data acquisition system before you start throwing money elsewhere. The data gathered from one 20 minute session can be worth more than a year's worth of racing without one, and when you add up all the entry fees/lodging/gas it is well worth the money. I am just learning about racing myself, I have started crewing for an ITA 240SX that also needs to get it's setup ironed out. But from hints I have gotten from real racers, it has opened my eyes to how wrong everyone here is... |
I never thorught about running that much camber with a 275 series tire.....seems a bit extreme to me. I need seat tiem no matter what and i knwo the geenral modification i need to get to competitiona nd actually be competative, but a datalogging system cant replace seat-time im sure it is awesome with helpign dial teh car in for competition, but until i get closer to that point, i dont see myself doing anything then slowly modifying the car and getting as much seat time as possible. Good idea, but not for me in these stages of my track time, prolly in the future.
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oh im deffinitly tryin to go as fast as the car will take me, which is why im upgrading to r-compound and mildly wider tires on all four corners. I wont put a 245 series on a 7.5" wide rim, just wont fit right. So the 225 is the only logical choice expecially since ill be moving alot faster with the Toyos then i was withthe Falkens, im not scared of it at all. I already slide most corners becasue of the Falkens, if the Toyos grip and beter itll keep my speed up and i wont slid nearly as much, less friction = more speed in my book. I dont spin any tire in a strait line, i only start to spin then when im cornering tryin to get on the throttle more than 30%.
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Hrmm toyo recomends a 7.5-9" wide wheel I dont think I would personally run them on a 7.5" wheel because with the tire rolling over like that you are not getting much more if any contact patch then a 225. If it was on a wider wheel I would go with a wider tire you will love the 225's as opposed to the 205's and especially going with r-compound tires. Also might want to change your driving a little to help you get on the throttle earlier maybe try carrying a little more corner speed and then easing into the throttle a little bit smoother, or try extending your braking zone a little and then transfer the wieght back to the rear sooner. Its hard because I havnt seen you drive but it sounds like you are initiating an almost braking drift on every corner by transfering the wieght to the front and then turning in, which is a fine driving style but you may benifit from a staggered setup maybe 225's up front and 245's in the rear. Have you tried to get some twin turbo rear 300z wheels I think they are 8" and they run 245's stock on them. Where are you located? I can probably get you a pair of 300z wheels but they will be like $100 a piece I think. Which is prob kinda expensive.
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i dont doa braking drift at all...i brake, turn in, slide the turn mildly while on throttle a tad, and i roll onto the trhottle as i unwind teh wheel, i would like to be abel to roll onto the throttle more overall when comming out of the turn. If i extend my braking distance itll slow me down way too much. Most places ont eh trcak i have always been told to not just let off throttle because it unsettles the car too much., especially going into a turn. Most of the sliding i have done is because of the Azenis i was running they were just too thin and not grippy enough once i get my speeds up, which is why i was switching to a mildly wider tire with a softer compound. I looked into a full set or rear 300zxtt wheels so i could have 16x8,5 in every corner, then i would run the 245's all around. But as of right nwo i have had trouble finding 2 of then, mush less 4 rears. So i deccided to hold off on that and just go with a 225 tire all aorund on stock NA 300zx wheels, itll be betetr for me to get used to for now anyways. Deff good advice, just much different from what i am used to, so it would be very difficult to get away from my old style and teachings.
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Like I said it is hard for me to say since I havnt seen you drive but I am sure you have plenty of good nasa instructors that are assigned to you in each state can give you advice especially if you can get someone to ride along with you. the new tires will help alot but thats the same style I use just no counter steer I like to rotate the car after braking when the wieght is still on my front tires and then throttle out.
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just to clarify, my intructors are not in MD, they are at the track and assigned to me by NASA at each event in different states.
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ok updates..... been LONG time....
*got the new pads in HAWK HP+ :) *the ducitng is done for the v-mount, waiting the rest of installation. *the bumpers (metal and plastic) have been modified approprietly *and i got a set of used Hoosier S04's for my next few track events :) *the hoosiers will mount to Mazda RX-7 FD wheels (16x8) with 1" spacers on 2.5" wheel studs front and rear, prolly with the fenders rolled a tad. *and i have a new design for my switch panel and gauges...but that wont start until after this event...cause its too hot to even talk about right now :). pics very soon, few days tops....i swear:) |
Steve knows what he is talking about.
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who is steve....and what did he say that he knows so much about? |
damn..this is the most quoted thread i've ever seen in my life...ez guys ez now
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It was a while ago but I'd like to bring back up the weight issue. I definitely don't think the "sub 2200" coments should be disregaurded. Long ago i weighed my car in at 2240 with a 1/4 tank. This was with everything stripped to the normal degree. Since then I've taken it all a step further and I definitely hope to be in the sub 2200 club later this summer. Cages and such definitely ad the weight back but until you've taken the car to that bare bones stage I wouldn't be so quick to call out.
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the only thing i have left to strip that i dont need...is the sound deadening off the interior and a few metal brackets which i dont think will add up to 200 more lbs i can lose. Im around 2350 now with 1/4 tank, and all the sound deadening and usles brackets will bring be to about 2300 before my cage, i still have heater core in and the dash.
I realize some peopel are going for the lightest weight possible, but i dont see what other weight can be lost other then the heatercore and the sound crap from everything I have already removed. I am also curious to see what everyone else is using to weigh their cars on...i dont consider anything a reliable weight unless corner scales are used. |
Steve is the guy that owns you.
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dont post here unless you have something relevent to current topic please.... trash talk over the internet is weak anyways, not proving anything, so keep off here unles syou have somethign to include about road racing, track setup for road racing, or anything along those lines. |
The heater core is significant. Does that also mean you still have all the HVAC ducting and blower motor? How 'bout the evaporator? I will be glad to prove my statements when I get my car driving in late May.
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i have the heater core in, and the HVAC box with only ducting for windsheild defrost from teh blower motor, nothing extra. Its as basic a windsheild defrost setup can be without making my own ducting.
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power windows and the glass from both sides? wiper blades and motors? sound deadening could easily be 30 lbs on the interior, and if you wanted you could go under the car as well to take the underbody tar off as well.
you obviously arent that worried about a minimum weight, but there are ways to make your car loose 150lbs without cutting holes in the floor panels. Come the day when you are ready to compete wheel to wheel, you may feel the need to make the car lighter. Where there is a will there's a way. |
Also you really need to consider a way to adjust your alignment. The Hoosiers and Toyos respond very well to negative camber. With a stock setup you will not be using the most of the tire. Also tire roll over is not necessarily due to the tire, or the suspension. It can be a combination of the two, but it also has a large part due to the alignment. You could have a crappy suspension, and a crappy tire, but if you had enough negative camber, you wouldnt get alot of roll over. I would really try and find a camber kit or something just so you can get the most out of the Hoosiers.
Why buy $700 worth of tires, and only use $350 of it?? (not sure on the costs, but you get the idea) |
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manual windows, i need to keep them becuase hte car sits outside 365 days of the year unless its beign worked on. I am going to keep wipers for rainy day track events, i know everyone uses rainX but it hasnt beent eh best for me, so wipers stay. The soudn deadenign is all i have left to remove along with a few interior brackets, maybe 50lbs worth of stuff left. And that alli will remove because everything else (heater, wipers, dash) is for function. Quote:
oh and shhhhh, dont tell anyone, i got my hoosiers for 250, with only 2 autoX runs on them. |
gauges and switch panel mounted...what do you guys think?
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...s/P4220074.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...s/P4220075.jpg Bung for the oil temp mounted, pic is without sensor installed, but it is all snugged up now and not leaking.... http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...s/P4210067.jpg my V-mount brackets in view, oil cooler location, and a odd shot of my intake i have rigged up with a piece of leftover hotpipe from teh FMIC kit i used to run.... http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...s/P4210068.jpg |
Just thought I'd chime in on here on a few points:
Saw agrabau's BMW run at a Devens autocross (think it was last year?). Car sounded badass, but too bad it didn't pass noise level :( I personally liked the tow- setup more :P As for camber: it'll depend a lot on how low/ stiff your car is. With the 9kg springs up front and whitelines on full stiff I was at about 4.5deg running the 275 Hoosiers. Same spring setup and slightly lower I was at just under 3 (going from memory) running 245 Victoracers. More grip = more roll = more camber, I guess (a lot of my setup was based on heat distribution). As for tire, 225 RA-1's are definitely undersized for anything over stock (or bolt ons) power, IMO. Given, I have limited experience on RA-1's... but running low to mid boost on my old setup (good for around 200-220hp) with the 245's, I felt very limited. Halo ran a 225/ 245 RA-1 setup for a few (i think) autocross seasons and I'm pretty sure he wasn't too impressed with them (always had the "you've got the better tire setup" card when visiting NER :P). As for tires on a 7.5" wheel: they'll fit fine, especially if they have some sidewall. I ran 245/45/R16's on z32 wheels for a long time before upgrading. A lot of stock class autocross cars will run an oversized tire as well. I might be running 275's on an 18x8 for instance (racing my daily driver while rebuilding my s14 this year). As for suspension: Koni 28-series all the way :P Might go with revalved Yellows for my daily driver if I do Solo II Nationals with it (have an urge to invade the "pony car class" with my G) but looking at running a full race setup on my s14, although that'll be a trailered car. If you're going to be driving to/ from events, though, I'd bet a Ground-Control/ Koni Yellow (revalved/shortened or not) would be your best bet. Finally, I like the theme of your interior, but for a full race car I would've done a cluster on the steering column. You don't need a speedo/ stock temp & fuel gauge for a race setup (well, fuel might be nice to know, but as long as you can see it at all even if not at a glance). I'm also hoping you're doing a full roll cage with side intrusion bars... especially if you're gutting the doors... Anyways, nice build up and updates! Hope you get everything sorted out, regardless of flames and what not. |
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i cant afford Tach and fuel level sensor just yet, thats teh only reason i have kept the factory cluster in place. When i eliminate that i will put Fuel Level, Tech, maybe small speedo, and my water temp gauge. But i need teh other gauges because my time on track is so long in teh straits i can glance over an monitor everythgin really quick too see how EGT, Oil Press, Oil Temp, Water Temp and boost are all doing, gauges are rotated so that when at operating temps and pressures they all point strait up, so it does only take a glace to check everything. I am getting a 4pnt roll bar built in a few weeks, i cant go 6pnt yet because i cant afford the Sparco seats i want just yet along with harness, so stock seats will have to do for now. The 4 pntis made to my design after being at many track events and working track events i have a specific design and standards i want followed, and when the 4pnt gets added onto to become a 6 pnt, it will again be my design for the shop to build around me. its all legal setups just strong and reliable. thanks for the input tho, ill post more pics as things change |
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welp, i dropped my car off at MA Motorsports to get a 4 point roll bar installed to meet SCCA/ NASA specs. Should be done like wednesday ish, at which point i will post pictures of the cage installed and painted. Along with pics of my new short exhaust.
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For those who didn't believe my car could be that light.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...8_139_full.jpg That was with a full 13 gallons in it. So trackday race weight with me in should be right at 2260. 1/4 mile race weight should be under 2200lbs because of only having 4 gallons in the tank. I still have some wiring and sound deadening to remove and possibly windows and gutting the door skeleton. But that should amount to no more than 50lbs. 10lbs of the roll cage is already installed. The rest should weigh between 150 and 200lbs. That will bring me back to somewhere around 2300. That is without an composite materials or significant efforts made in weight saving in other areas. Little thing like aluminum driveshaft and such could add up to bring me back below 2300lbs. I'm not really aiming for that but if it happens cool. Its not really a big deal anyway though because SM minimum weight is 2500 so it'll all be gained back in ballast. |
To the OP...thanks for sharing your car's details... looks like it's coming along nicely. Good job, and have fun improving on your setup and driving.
Broaner...awesome weight. Guess you just proved to all the doubters:) My car should be down around that weight as well. I'll be going to the scales in August for a weigh-in. About roadracing, I'd like to offer some of my experiences as well for grip driving. I'm not saying my setup is the way to go, and not saying I'm a know-it-all. Just sharing my experiences, that's all. I recently relocated my fusebox and relay box to behind the dash, similar to whiteGLX. It was pretty easy, but I can see how somebody could mess it up. I did this to make the engine bay clean and to get more room up front so I can run more POSITIVE CASTER. I'm at +7 right now and occasionally rub the front part of fender well. Now I can bang it out and get up to +10 degrees. My alignment: Front: -2.5 camber, .5 toe out, +7 caster. Rear: -1.5 camber, .25 toe in. Car is lowered too much right now and I am going to raise it a little bit. My links are angled up way too much. This doesn't prevent me from running very well at my track though. For mods: I have: spl fender brace spl tension rod Tanabe sways front and rear cusco rear control arm and toe rod kazama traction rod Silk road coilvers (8/6) Cusco strut bars (F+R) subframe spacers (installed all 8) Sr engine w/ stock turbo + FULLRACE mani at 240rwhp fmic, koyo radiator, FAL twin fans...no oil cooler or PS cooler yet. ZetaIII bucket (bucket seat was essential for me improving my driving). Work s1, see sig. Currently on 235/40 and 245/40 bfg KDW (way too hard, can't wait to use the pilot sport cup) Wilwood 4piston front brakes w/ 12.2" rotors. I am very happy with my setup as it is....except for one thing. I am going to replace my Tanabe rear swaybar with the stock swaybar. My track (mid-america motorplex) is mostly 3rd gear, and top speed up to about 130-140mph. and one 2nd gear turn. I can have the throttle all the way down midway through the apex on nearly every turn. I thought my setup might be too extreme and too stiff but it has proved to be very nice and my chassis/suspension flex is becoming very minimal. Some of the turns require late apex for better laptimes. There are lots of S-turns and some double right turns. The double right turns require a wide entry through the first turn while carrying higher entry speed. Approaching the second right and you simply let off the gas and unsettle the back end for a nice turn in and full throttle exit through the second right-turn. I really enjoy these turns. As most of you know, simply getting partially through the turn and then throttling out while unwinding the steering works very well. My first outing had me getting full throttle after 3/4 of the turn, but more seat time and I'm now full throttle at mid-apex. My end goal is to use an S15 turbo with r-compound (pilot sport cup because they last much longer than kumho/hoosier) while still getting full throttle at mid-apex. I've been very impressed with the ability and reliability of my S13. Last time at the track and I passed a nice porsche w/ cage, huge wing, the works, some STIs on falken 615 tires, and two ZO6 vettes. The first ZO6 was unexperienced, easy kill. The second...well he looked like he knew how to drive. I was really amazed that I reeled him in through the course of a few laps. He finally gave the signal to pass, albeit very reluctantly:) Many people at the track ask me what kind of car it is, and many people are stunned that it can pass their MUCH more expensive cars. I had an instructor ride with me and he was very impressed with the handling, stating that it is on par with the ZO6s he races and rides in. Stock turbo on SR is more than enough power for now, and the only thing planned for the future is more seat-time, an oil cooler, and r-compound. I do 20-30minute sessions with my water temp rising to a max of 95 degrees C. Maybe this is getting too hot? But I haven't had any problems yet, and run from 3-8pm (30minute sessions with cooldown in between). EGTs max at 870 degrees C. When my supra is finished it will spank the laptimes of my nissan but that's expected (moton triple adjustable shocks and 285/315 r-compound). People...mods are always a good thing but nothing is better than seat-time at a track, and time with an instructor in your car to give you pointers. http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/4999/s13nz.jpg http://img129.imageshack.us/img129/8951/s23rf.jpg http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/1901/s38pz.jpg http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/4919/s41qc.jpg http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/6160/s55wc.jpg http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/6182/s68px.jpg The beginning: http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/2253/s80ay.jpg LOL http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/5936/s73ok.jpg |
looks good 2JZ, i dont haev the funds for a good suspension setup like yours, ebcause i have spent it all on track time overe here. 2 day events, 8 sessions per event, and only 7 under my belt, 2 more in the next month tho.
I just got a set of used hoosiesrs that are still very good for a few events that i mounted on RX-7 wheels (FD), and i turned my boost down a tad, so i shoudl be around 240whp now. Seat time i my must, but i have made modifications approprietly when i think they are needed, V-mount was to keep water temps down (not for bling fator), rollbar is for safety because i am getting into the 150+mph range at VIR, rewiring was because my chasis harness took a crap on me and cought fire about a year ago. Oh yaeh, i didnt relocate anything, i removed it all. all the wiring in the car is roughly 5lbs or less. rollbar pics for teh kiddies http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...s/P6070007.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...s/P6070003.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...s/P6070001.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ofus/cage2.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...s/P6070005.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...s/P6070009.jpg |
I love these types of threads.
You laid it all out there very well 2jzgte. Tracktime... I need lots as I have none besides a few parade laps at Road America. LOL. What clubs are you guys in? There are only two around here. Madison Sports Car Club and Porsche Club the Milwaukee chapter. The Madison group seems to be a bit more snobby about things and usually not very welcoming to newcomers. The Porsche club has trackdays all the time. This chapter requires a lot of corner working time. Thats fine with me I guess because my car won't be track ready for two years anyway so... I'm thinking of joining one next spring. Do you guys have any suggestions or experiences to share relating to the clubs your a part of? WhiteGLX, I'm really liking your cage man. Looks very well done. Its actually very similar to what I had in mind. Infact the RSTB tube looks almost identical to mine. http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...8_102_full.jpg I decided to go a bit crazy last night. A buddy hit a deer while driving my car on saturday. Trashed the rad support. So I decided to take the chance to do some work. I removed all of the remaining wiring harness left in the car. And if there is no wiring for the windows there is no point in having windows. So I'm probably 30lbs lighter now. Also, now that I have plenty of room I finally had a chance to do some test fitting on this Vortech. http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...8_147_full.jpg |
um, what motor is that?
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that is a maxima engine mated to eithe 0r a 300zx tranny or a 350z tranny..... |
Echo, its a VQ30DE right now. I'll be swapping in a VQ30DE-K at some point. I'm not moving up to the 35 because I'd like to stay eligible for boost.
Thanks for the input man. Its going to be tough for me to go into a trackday and keep my mouth shut just learning all I can. But I really want to in a couple years. |
Sick rollbar. I need to do a rear hoop sometime as well...then I can finally get a 6-point harness.
Broaner - I'm not a member of any clubs yet because I work overseas and only spend 1/3 of the year in the states right now. I will be joining a BMW club soon though so that I can get more tracktime in. I'm in the midwest too...we can meet up in August if you want. You should come down to mid-america motorplex if you can make it. I'll be there for the trackdays in August and September (every other Wednesday). http://www.midamericamotorplex.com/2006/default.asp You should just get to a trackday with your car...preferably one with instructors on site that will ride with you. If there aren't any instructors, then you can just try to get a ride with someone else. They can show you the lines around the track, it really helps. You'd be surprised, most people at trackdays are really cool and always willing to offer advice. Also, people at trackdays usually know wtf they're talking about. Another option is to sign up for a trackday that is specifically a school day. It usually costs a little more but you will have a dedicated instructor...and you will learn A LOT. Don't worry about driving fast. Everybody wants you to go at your own pace anyway...and there is usually a passing rule so you don't have to worry about going 2 wide into a turn etc. Anyway, good luck finishing your car...crazy looking project you have there. Billy |
This car won't be ready for trackdays until atleast late next summer. The front suspension is really crappy right now. I did the rear first so I could atleast hit up the 1/4 mile this year. Although now it looks like I may not get to do that because of the deer. The front bushings on the TC rods are really bad and the front brakes and tires are laughably small compared to the rears. Balljoints are shot and so are the bearings. Basically, the front end is a hole winters worth of work.
And once it is done Mid-america is way too far until I get a good tow setup. My truck could do it but it wouldn't be the best for it. So for a couple years I'll be sticking to Road America and Blackhawk. |
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I'll be taking a roadtrip in my S13 to Road America. I've always wanted to go there....maybe I'll have a chance in August. I always drive my S13 to trackdays....the best part is showing up and passing those guys that got trailered in:eek3: |
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hey hey hey...nothing wrong with being trailer slut to the track...we just just drive harder :coold: |
The car could take the trip there but I couldn't. An hour + of straightpiped exhaust at a constant tone and volume on the highway causes serious insanity. Plus I probably would get better towing mileage than I would if I just drove the car. LOL
I'd definitely be scarred to go full 9/10th's at RA. I plan on working up to it. That place is so fast. You need supreme confidence in your car to brake it down from mid to high triple digits before turn one. Front straight is roughly 9/10ths of a mile. Do you guys know of Blackhawk? I thought it was only locally known. Much slower and less demanding track of novice drivers like myself. |
BODY ROLL!!!
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...06-06897-1.jpg starting to run away..... http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...a606-06296.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...a606-01950.jpg trying to catch the C5 http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...a606-03273.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...a606-04134.jpg good thing i flared the fenders 2 days before the event http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...a606-04699.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...a606-00267.jpg |
awesome pics bro. Nice to see people that really race wheel to wheel. Whats your brake setup? Do you find brake fade on track days with only street tires(azenis....assuming thats whats in the pictures)?
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these are track days HPDE style, drivers education type things, not true racing....yet ;). my brakes are Brembo Blank rotors, SS lines, 300zx 30mm Alum. calipers, Super Blue bake fluid, and Hawk HP+ Pads. Never had brake fade before, the pads are made for track events, very agressive when hot and the super blue fluid has a rediculou high boiling point. Tires are falken Azenis in the 3rd and 5th photos others are Hoosier S04's on RX-7 FD wheels in the others. The brakes were more than enough for the Azneis, btu with the hoosiers in the future i will need to go with something a bit more agressive like a 13-14" rotor and 4 pot calipers up front....or 13" rotor with 6 pot calipers up front. |
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With a 14" rotor you may need an 18" wheel. With the 13" rotor, you will need a 17" usually. Ive seen one guy run 94Cobra brakes (13" rotor) under a 16" CCW classic wheel. But that wheel has a wierd drop center and unique offset that just barely clears the brakes. I run the EVO/STI set up and run a 17" wheel. I haven't experienced any brake fade at all (although all my friends get fade with q45/300zx brakes) with only azenis. |
Lookin good whiteglx.
What alignment specs were you running at this event? Also, how does the cage feel on the track compared to before without it? |
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My friends are idiots and run on napa ceramics. I use ferodo ds2500's. |
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i understand where they get brake fade from now.....if you set it up right, you will never have a worry in the world wheather your car is going to stop or not.... |
well one of them uses a q45 setup up front and stock out rear. He's still on street tires (rs2s) and is ka-t (right at 250whp). His 235/40 hankooks are too small out back to hold down power for exiting corners as it is. But his real problem is braking. He uses crossrdrilled rotors, however he cannot find a performance brake pad for the q45 calipers. The wheels he runs (17x8.5 work vs-xx) barely clears his q45 setup, so he can't change to the z32 caliper for better pad choice.
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235 hankook's cant hold 250whp....maybe the throttle modulation needs to be worked on, cause i nmade my 215 azenis work with 260whp, full throttle they would kick, but i just made them work, hankook's are sticky if they are r-comps.
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