Oil/Coolant Feed/Return line For Ka24det
 

Im in the process of putting something together for my KA-T I was gonna make a post but I'll share what I have so far.

OIL FEED LINE FOR KA24DET

Starting at the block where the stock oil pressure sending unit is located and making the way to the turbo:

1.) http://www.nissport.com/catalog/prod...EquipmentType=
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...m/NS-2100l.jpg

This goes in place of the oil pressure sending unit into the block. The stock sender fits in the 1/8 BSPTfemale end of this piece (not seen because it is sitting on that end), and there are three 1/8" NPT female ports used to connect your feed line and other items, such as an oil pressure gauge sending unit or oil temp sending unit. $49.00

2.) http://www.amstreetrod.com/961603ASR.php4
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...m961603ASR.jpg
Oil line to NISSPORT oil sending unit adapter (1) $1.68
part no: 981603 -3AN to 1/8 adapter

3.) http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/shop1...d_num=63010160
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u.../1untitled.jpg
Oil feed line (3 ft) $15.59
part no: 63010136 -3AN Female Swivel Both Ends - Size 3 Hose

4.) http://www.takamotorsports.com
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...m/P1260002.jpg
Oil line to turbo adapter 7/16-24 I.F. to -3AN:

.060" oil restrictor (Journal bearing). This is to ensure the proper amount of oil is getting to your T25. Unrestricted oil flow will blow through the turbo oil seals and coat the insides of your intercooler pipes. It has 1/8" NPT threads will fit into the nissport adapter. $11.00

.030" oil restrictor (Ball bearing). This is to ensure the proper amount of oil is getting to your T25. Unrestricted oil flow will blow through the turbo oil seals and coat the insides of your intercooler pipes. It has 1/8" NPT threads will fit into the nissport adapter. $12.00

OIL RETURN LINE FOR KA24DET
I used the stock return pipe from a U12/U13 Bluebird or W10/11 Avenir SR20DET for those of you that aren't familiar these are the AWD varients of the SR20DET commonly swapped into the FWD B13/B14/P10/P11 chassis. I slightly modified the bend of the retun pipe and braze welded it onto the oil pan and I cut the flange part off leaving about 1/2" of pipe to attach the rubber return line hose which is 5/8" which I got from autozone part number 4492. Also you like need a staright piece of 5/8" O.D. pipe to join the modified rubber return hose together and for clocking purposes.
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...m/P1100008.jpg
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...m/P1100011.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...m/P1080003.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...P1090009-1.jpg
Since I can't find an original picture of teh return pipe I used here is a screen shot and part number 15197-79E01:
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...209-112042.gif
COOLANT RETURN/FEED LINE FOR KA24DET:
These two trick banjo fittings bolt directly onto your T25/T28 CHRA (14mm Banjo to 1/4 NPT):

1.) http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...gory_Code=GTBB
$22.00 x 2
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...Kit-225225.jpg

2.) Http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog...252/index.html
For the easiest connection to the water return and outlet pipe you will simply need to bypass your coolant lines to your throttle body and also use these fitting to tap into your banjo supplied 1/4" NPT tap with these 1/4" NPT to 5/16" straight hose fitting (HARD TO FIND!!!)
$1.45 x 2
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...lbum/639_d.jpg

3.) Here is a picture of the coolant outlets that you will need to attach a lenght of 5/16" I.D. to and run them over to your turbo.
INLET AND OUTLET DOESN'T MATTER HERE AS THIS IS RUNNING THREW THE TURBO CHRA:
NOTE: IM USING A S14 INATKE MANIFOLD SO MY UPPER WATER LINE IS IN A DOWNWARD FACING POSISTION AS TO A S13 INTAKE MANIFOLD WOULD SHOOT OFF TO THE PASSANGER SIDE IIRC.
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u.../rP1100014.jpg
Lastly you need some 5/16" I.D. coolant hose to connect the feed and return to the turbo.
This shows what has have been bypassed:
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u.../RP1100015.jpg

Littlle modification update on the throttle body for ease of routing coolant lines:

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...m/P1130001.jpg

and here are more pics showing the routing of coolant lines:

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...m/P1130002.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...m/P1130003.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...m/P1130004.jpg
More pics will come later still waiting on parts to come in the mail.

awsome pictures. =)

nice thread, thx for the part numbers :)

Bump Added Some More Stuff At The End Of First Post.

Holy shit man, VERY good write up.

Thanks guys, I was tired of not seeing a clear cut way to run these lines for the KA24DE(T), and people not running coolant lines, well its easy, it may cost a bit but money shouldn't be a factor when ur making oil and coolant lines.

More pics, its not finsihed but its close:

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...P1180004-1.jpg
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...m/P1180017.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...m/P1180021.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...m/P1180020.jpg

Clean as always man!!.

Subscribed and + repped. And damn that's a clean block and tranny.....jeez make the rest of us look bad will ya. lol

Excellent part usage.

Is that up/down/up effect going to affect the water flow to the turbo?

Carlos

Thanks, I hope not but I dont think so, basically its running just like it was suppost to run threw the throttle body except now its a turbo and I would think the pump provides enough centrifugal force to flow the water around everywhere.

Why didn't you run without a coolant line. It would've been a lot less of a hassle.

Mel,

you think it would be ok to run a t25/or t28 without a coolant line?

If sooo shooot,

Id just run oil and be down with it,

but then again this is going on a track car, so I could careless about reliability...

Dude I have been looking for those banjo bolt AN adaptor things. Posi-rep!

Yes. You can no problem. When I threw the t28 in, I didn't even mess with the coolant lines. As well as my ka-t setup I ran without a coolant line.

The oil lines will cool the turbo off sufficently.

Reliability? The stock turbo in these cars are supposed to be DDed on for hundreds of thousands of kilo's. So they need all the help they can get.

But the way we are using them, fuck coolant lines. Bigger turbo's don't even have coolant fittings.

Because im not into half ass'ing things, my approach is do it right or don't do it at all. Im sure you can run without coolant lines to the turbo but I choose not to.

Wurd.

Good write up though, Im going to be doing this as soon as I get a Start up of my KA in my corolla.

So I guess all the manufactures should recall their turbo's and install coolant passages on them because they are half assing?

No that's retarted, obviosuly its a known fact that some turbo's dont have coolant passages built into them because they were "designed" not to have them vs other turbo's that were such as mine.

There is no difference.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...218-112852.gif

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...o_tech101.html

I guess I need to find what exactly was the flow threw the throttle body so I can route the coolant lines the right way on the turbo, accordant to that the cool side of the coolant should be connected on the lowest side of the CHRA (which im my case is the rear coolant passage nearest to the block).

Sweet.

They explained perfectly why you should have a turbo timer.

Aggreed! and I do use one on every turbocharged car I ever owned.

No, Oil cooled turbo's have large oil passages for cooling and lubrication. Water cooled turbos have small oil passages only for lubrication. The area for cooling passages is now used by the water passages.

good write up man.

as far as coolant lines...you also need to think about ball bearing turbo owners. there's not much oil needed in a dual ball bearing turbo so the oil definately's not gonna gonna cool the turbo off, that's why garrett dbb turbo's have coolant lines going to them.

so reps to doing it right or don't do it at all. i know i don't want my 12-1500 dual ball bearing turbo taking a crap prematurely because i was too lazy to feed that puppy some coolant. i would have gone with steel braded line and earl's fittings but that's just me. good job tho

gt35r going on my KA in the 510 =]

thx for the part numbers and the details. also the whole purpose nissan designed coolant to pass through the throttle bodies was to raise intake air temps to thus make the car run richer (less power) in order to create less nox for emissions purposes....so to us folks who want a nice cold/dense intake charge those throttle body "heater" lines are a no no.

gj man, post some dyno graphs once you get that clean sucker in the car and tuned. i could eat off ur valve cover hahaha

Dave =]

I haven't bought the SS lines yet becasue I been lazy but the lines I am using are rated at 250psi.

Also finding 5/16" I.D. or -5AN I.D. (same thing) ss line isn;t that easy but I think I found a shop that carrys it near by, here the link below, you do not want to use -6AN hose because it way to hard on the hose clamps to squeeze down and make a seal on a 5/16" O.D. pipe.

I still need to call them and verify that it does infact have real SS braid because reading the text says this but the spec's underneith don't jive with whats said above manily the burst psi. (50psi vs 175psi)

http://www.paragonperformance.com/fuel%20line%20hose.html

Very nice job. Clean, tight work. I have two issues to point out:

1) You mentioned putting the OE oil pressure switch back in. Do not do that. You don't need it (with this type of build you're surely running a gauge) and it's only going to leak down the road, so it's pointless to install. I've never seen one not pooled in oil at the plug.

2) You're running an SR outlet/downpipe. You'll find the clearance is a bit tighter on the KA setup as it sits just a hair higher than the SR manifold. When using a 3" downpipe (like my setup) it rubs the floorboard right at the lower most edge of the firewall. Just something to think about. I ended up buying an additional 3bolt flange and welding it to the existing flange, effectively creating a spacer, double the OE flange size, to drop the downpipe the needed amount. Just a heads up.

Also, since the manifold hardware loosening up is always a possibility, a small tackweld on each nut goes a long way to keep the turbo and outlet from falling off.

Otherwise it's as impressive as all your for sale ads, which always blow me away.

Thanks, yea I haven't bought the oil gauge yet but in the mean time I just bought a new oil sending unit from nissan to feel the hole for now.

I do plan on buying an aftermarket turbo outlet and downpipe. As for running the stock units, I had to see for myself how everything matted up since no one has actually documented it really good, or I just gave up searching but I do think I recall reading something about adding a flange as a spacer.

Actually I made a little thread on KA-T.org about the fitment issue on teh sr turbo outlet on a KA24DE(T), even over there nothing was clear and to the point baout what you needed to do.

Heres the link with some pics:
http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic...1663&highlight=

you're retarded.

all ball bearing turbos have water passages. besides the TR30, which is worth at least 5 times what your whole car is.

journal bearings use oil to cool off the CHRA, they also use more of it, which is why they don't have a restrictor. try to run a GTxxxxR without a restrictor and it would blow out the seals.

Amazing post, so many people have started threads looking for this information. Adding this to favorites immediatly.