How to add traction in 30 minutes or less *Approved*
 

So, I have wheels that are the wrong offset. They're 18x12 with 6.75" backspacing, but I really need 8" backspacing. This means the wheels stick out slightly, in addition to having a massive overall rolling diameter. With the Georgia SCCA Tour event this weekend, I needed a quick fix.

So, sawzall in hand, I went outside to f(*&# some s*(& up.

The first step is to plan something. I think I ignored this step on the driver's side, but that's half of why I'm writing this: so you guys don't mess up (because I care. I really do). I traced an outline of what I wanted (dirt and grime makes for an easy sketch) and went to work. For the fender cut, you want to take only the outer fender skin after your initial notch.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...e/wiiide-1.jpg

The next cut should be right along the lip of the fender on the inside (tub) section, so that you end up with as much of the tub as possible. I then cut slots into the tub section so I could hammer it up:
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...e/wiiide-2.jpg

Ignore the bad cut. It'll be covered later, if and when you get real flares or an overfender. Just make sure that you've got room for your tires. Not cutting into tires that cost some $300 each would be a good thing, and with the massive overall diameter, you'll need clearance to get the car down to a proper ride height. Once it's all clear, hammer it up a bit more since bumps and suspension joint-flex may bring the tire up higher than a jack will. After that, weld or rivet the inner fender back to the outer fender skin. Here's where the debate comes into play: people say that the outer fender is structural, and people say it isn't. I'd rather be safe than sorry, so mine is welded up, and filled in with window sealant.

Once that's accomplished, undo the shock mount and mount your wheel. Use a jack to bring the wheel up to where you think your suspension might go. After that, set the fender lip to where you want it (ideally clearing the tire) and tack it in place a few times.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...e/wiiide-3.jpg

This is completely an un-necessary step if you're going to add a fender flare or over-fender. I just did it because I didn't have a fender flare or over-fender at the time, and really, who cares how it looks if it's not going fast? For now I didn't want a jagged edge on the side of the car. I suppose it wouldn't look horrible if I had panel bonded the wheel arch back on, and molded stuff in place, but it's all coming off for 50mm over-fenders.

The final step is to proceed to stomp cones:
http://www.gfabracing.com/blog/wp-co.../chris-t-3.jpg

-PJ

Looks good and functional. How did the new tire/wheel setup feel?

At first it felt as though there was too much tire in back, especially on lower speed corner entry. Once the tires were scrubbed in, though, they felt great. The car is still a bit twitchy through the higher speed stuff, so I'm hoping newer/ better shocks will help keep the rear end in check. I definitely need to modify the roll centers, though, as I'm still getting a hint of inside rear tire lift on sweepers. Raising the front roll-center should negate that, much like the BMW's, which lift the inside front.

For the record:
the tires shown are Kumho V710, 285/30/R18 up front and 315/35/R18 in back. They sit on 18x10 +11 up front, and 18x12 with 6.75" backspacing in the rear, for wheels.

You're crazy, and I love it! Keep up the good work. :bow:

Do they make a 315/30/18 or something like that? 315/35/18 seems really tall.

nice haha I know the feeling,

That was my last weekend :)


http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/450/dsc2130saa1.jpg
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/6695/dsc2132snd1.jpg
http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/6461/dsc2132ssp7.jpg

how much did you get those ccws for?

I want to see more pictures of the car on the ground with those tires now.

Well, that will surely put to shame my 275/40R17 Hoosiers all-around.. ;)

Seriously, those rims cost more than most s13's. Sexy time!

Well, I think Daddio is running 285/30/R18 all around on his Evo, which is surprizing since I bought the 18x12" CCW's from a BSP Evo guy. You'll be able to get heat into your tires a lot easier than I will, untill I'm hitting the 400-500rwhp mark. Unfortunately, I don't have the suspension to really plant the rear down, just yet. Looking at Stance GR3's or stepping it up to Moton's. I also want to raise the front roll-center to get the rear to plant a bit more when the body rolls. Hopefully it won't kill my turn-in characteristics, which at the moment leads to mild understeer. Not to mention my car is a heavy pig with the stock sheet metal!


http://www.gfabracing.com/blog/wp-co...7/02/panda.jpg

http://www.gfabracing.com/blog/wp-co...2/bigtires.jpg

PJ!! You're not even using the whole tire... ;)

damn those are some meats, lol

You should get some bolt on fender flares off a z car or something, would at least clean it up alittle.

That was during the test and tune. We dropped like 7psi from there by the end of the weekend, and were getting further onto the shoulders.


I'm probably gonna do custom fenders, since I can get some good one-off fiberglass work done. Flares or over-fenders aren't really my style.

so how much did the ccw's cost you??

I bought them used for $1200, IIRC.

Approved

It's a little 'out there' and doesn't cover the fender modding 95% of people will be doing, but fuck it, it is what it is.