Redtop SR20 Haltech platinum sport1000 no start
 

hopefully someone can help out with this. my issue is that ive got a no start situation on my SR. its got spark, got fuel, just wont start. im running a haltech platinum sport 1000 trying to start it on the base s13 map that haltech provided.

ive checked that the cas is working, got low voltage though compared to what the fsm states. according to the fsm it should fluctuate from 0 to 5V while turning it by hand. it only geting .01 to .30 ive checked the timing like 5 times and am pretty sure that its spot on. continuity is there between cas and ecu. checked pretty much everything i can think of. any help would be great. thanks.

Mike

update
 

ok so an update on this issue. today i pulled the valve cover and made absolutely sure that the timing is spot on. checked resistance on all of the coils and they tested fine. tested the ignitor as the fsm states and everything checked out till the last set of tests. the 1234 + yes - no
abcd - +


this is the continuity test. i got NO continuity with the positive lead of the multimeter conected to the 1,2,3,and 4 points and the negative lead to the a,b,c,and d points. i got continuity with the leads reversed. im wondering if this means that the ignitor is shot? or if the instructions in the fsm could be wrong. the ignitor has been sitting in a drawer of my tool box not doing shit, i dont see how this could have caused it to go bad.

please someone throw some input my way.

thanks in advance

mike

When you say you checked the timing, did you use a timing light to verify that the Haltech's timing values match your actual timing values?

post the map you are using and I'll do what I can to help you out. I have tuned a number of Haltech powered SR20s.

- john

no, i mean that i pulled the valve cover and inspected and reset the timing as per the fsm. i cant get the timing light to pickup at all, im showing rpm during cranking on the haltech. ive pulled the coil, put the plug in and grounded while cranking. its sparking, but doesnt look super strong.

im using the standard s13 base map that comes from haltech, changed injectors to high impedence, set it so it can read my wide band. thats all that i have changed.

tried to start it today after going through all of the coil and ignitor wiring to make sure it was good. while my friend was cranking i attempte to turn the cas to get it to fire, he stoped cranking unexpectedly, i told him to try it again and POP!! fried the 100amp fusible link. so yah. thats where im at.

Sounds like typical car stuff: Buy new parts, and something else takes a crap.

I'd still post your map. Lets make sure that the Fuel and Ignition are enabled.

Are you using the Inj time or VE Based Tables?

PS1K_Nissan_S13_PnP_RevA is the map that im using. got it right from Haltech. changed the injector settings to high and thats the only change thats been made.

when trying to start it i have the fuel and ignition enabled. i know that im getting fuel and spark. just no start.

These are the settings in the haltech software

Main Setup
Main
Tuning Method: Injection Time
Engine Type: piston
Load Source: Map
Ignition Load Source: Map
Map Source: External
Max Cranking: 380rpm

Firing order: #1:1, #2:3, #3:4, #4:2

Trigger

Trigger Type: Nissan Optical
Trigger angle: 42.0
Trigger offset: 18
Trigger Edge: Falling
Home Edge: Falling
Trigger sensor type: hall effect
home sensor type: hall effect
trigger pullup: enabled
home pullup: enabled
home window: 16
trigger filter level: none
home filter level: none

Fuel
Injection mode: sequential
fuel pump prime time: 1sec
injector resistance: high

Ignition
Spark mode: direct fire
spark edge: falling
dwell mode: constant charge
dwell time: 1.9ms

hopefully someone can help. thanks.

mike

thanks, ive been to that already though. unfortunately it was no help.

If you have spark and fuel the first thing youll need to do is verify that the ignition timing is correct.

Do the following:
- get a timing light
- In the ECU Manager Software:
1. Setup>Main Setup
- Click the tab that says "Fuel"
- Uncheck the box that says "Enable Injectors", this will turn OFF the injectors

2. Setup>Main Setup
- Click the tab that says "Ignition"
- Select the drop down item that says "Ignition Lock" > Enable this feature
- Set the Locked Timing Value to 0 Degrees

Now with the timing light have someone crank the motor over, and move the cam sensor until the timing light flashes at 0deg on the Crank pulley.

Once you have done this, go back and enable the injectors and try to start the vehicle.

There are a few other things that you'll need to check:
- TPS Voltage
- Coolant and Air Temp Sensor Readings
- Is the map set up to run VE or Injector PW Based Tuning?

There are TONS of reasons why the car may not fire right up, but this is a good place to start.

- john

thanks John, i will try that. i just picked up a plugwire lead so i can check the timing easier. tps voltage is correct. that i set befor doing anything else. coolant and air temp readings are good, both reading the ambiant temp of my garage.

last night i atemped to move the cas while my buddy was cranking the motor and apparently it blew the 100amp fuseible link in the main fuse box under the hood. i just picked one up from the local parts store and installed it.

mike

i also pulled apart the cas to check the internals. found that there was a good amount of oil in there. wondering if there is a good way to clean it. i was thinking of using crc maf cleaner. or maybe brake clean. got any ideas? thanks

how is progress on this

You need to set timing lock at 15 not 0. Also make sure your trigger type is Nissan Type 3 and Hall effect mode. Did you calibrate all your sensors? Change your FP prime time to 3-5sec. You may have to mess with the stepper motor controls if you are running an IACV.

Contact SteveShadows on here as he is a big time Haltech tuner.

BTW, my trigger angle is 48 and my tooth offset is 14.

out of curosity why use 15 and not 0 ?

Base timing is 15* BTDC not 0* BTDC...

i would imagine though that i am just forcing the haltech to only spark at 0 and i am using the light to make sure the forced 0 and the number on crank pulley are same value

It doesn't matter if you lock the timing at 15* or 0* or any other number you choose, so long as you get the timing offset correct.

The cars don't have stepper motors for Idle control, they are Duty Cycle driven BAC valves.

You are correct

just an update. my cas was fucked, so i got another one and fedex broke it in shipping, so now im waiting on the brand new one that i ordered from nissan.

i have contacted steve at shadow werks, he is building me a map so i can drive it to the dyno instead of having it towed. he was super helpful and seemed to know his shit.

i will update everyone again as soon as the new cas shows up.

please do update. are u using the patch loom with the haltech PS1000? i have the same setup but havent quite finished my build to start the car. your info is helpful for me :) this will give me a heads up

yes im using the patch loom for the PS1000. im waiting to hear back from steve shadows about my map. will update again with any new developments.

mike

i also have a map made from steve. im gonna use it to break in the motor a lil and drive it to the dyno. hopefully i wont have any problems starting the engine up. ive been have this map ready and sitting in my computer for a week now. hope you get your engine started homie. keep up with the updates

so i got the brand new cas installed and was still having tach signal problems. so i said fuck it and pulled the entire wire harness out of the car and totally deloomed it to go through it wire by wire. in the process i found a shitload of wires that had just been cut and not terminated or de-pinned from the harness when i had the harness conversion done a couple years ago. im surprised i havent had problems befor considering the shitty way the harness was converted. (s13sr harness to s14 chassis). wiring specialtys is the company that did it and im not impressed. ive spent the better part of 10 hours checking, de-pinning, replacing broke or cut wires and all sorts of other shit. needless to say the harness is curently a mess on my shop floor right now. my plan is to replug everything and then tuck/shorten any non needed length to clean things up and make it look better and easier to work on.

got the map from steve and hope to have it up and running tonight, i will update again when i can.

mike

i had the same exact problem with my wiring also. the person that did the wiring before had wires still loomed and revealed. ive already done the wire tuck and took the wires out completely that were not used. everything is organized and orientated to where they need to go.

This is the second negative thing I've read in my random encounters around zilvia... they're harness' are plug and play and are normally wrapped oem style yada ya. How long ago did you purchase this harness from them because phase2motortrend on top of wiringspecialties themselves sell these harnesses and it would be a good thing to have them perform some quality control on in the future.

i orginally got my harness from them probly 4 years ago or so. i think it was pretty much right after they set up shop, not sure though. it took the better part of 3 days of going through wire by wire double checking shit and de-pinning like a shitload of wires that were either cut or just not needed and also shortening other wires that were excessivly long. its finally back together and tucked in the engine bay. going to run the map i got from steve in about 30 min or so and see where im at.

updates later today hopefully.

mike

any update mike?

here is a quick update.

last night got the motor fire ONLY when doing a clear flood start. ie holding the gas pedal all the way to the floor. it would run but only if i continued to give it gas and held it between 1500 and 2000 rpm. let off the gas and it dies imediately. for the time that it was running my wideband was showing like 7.5 ish.

i talked to steve at shadow werks and he sent me a new map that had a bunch of fuel pulled from it but im thinking that its still too rich or that the injection pulse width is too long. im gonna try to get intouch with steve again later today. anyone have any thoughts?

mike

so overall your problem was your CAS ?