Thanx guys. I just looked up those skyline knuckles. The first set I found was from an R32. They did have some weird HICAS link mount, but they are aluminum, and they do have the same damper mount location as the S14! Sweet

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...N7IHVjQ_12.jpg


I have a new set of Ohlins that do not have removeable bottoms. I'd have to pull the dampers apart, hack the bottom off and fab up my own bottom bracket (or just mod those pretty MAX parts) and weld them on. Skyline parts may be the ticket.

On the off chance anyone else is in the same boat I am, a little further internet sleuthing found that the R33s are iron just like the s14 rear knuckle, and the R34 use the same style damper mount as the Z32, but are 10mm wider at the mount. And supposedly SPL can get you a good bushing to ditch that weird HICAS/toe mount on the R32 knuckle.

All you have to do is press out the ball joint and press in a regular bushing. I did that with the Z32 TT knuckles I had. Pressed out the oem ball joint and pressed in some Nismo bushings.

A little OT, but curious on what the general consensus is on rotating camber plates for caster adjustment, and adjusting tension arm to stock length to reduce bind and aid in clearance at front inner guard?

I understand that top strut bracket hole would need to be slotted a bit more to get decent neg camber again.

I've heard that possible downsides to this are adversely affecting KPI and adding bumpsteer?

If it matters I'm running heyman knuckles in a low s14 on BC coils.

You can do it, but you're probably not going to have enough negative camber if you can't extend your lower control arms.

Even if slotting the coilover bracket at the knuckle?

That can only go so far, and starts affecting other things too. The best thing you can do is experiment.

best fucking advice I have EVER read on the internet!

everyone LIVE by this advice. you will be a better man for it.

Haha will report back :) All for experimentation!

If I can get -3 to -3.5 out of it I'll be happy.

The rotary 86 by Darren McNamara has a special steering setup (gotta see it to explain it) that speedhunters doesnt have enough photos to make out how easy it could work- if one was able to fab one up. Anyone with more info? Thanks

Are you talking about his strut tops?

Those looked pretty dope.

On my to-do list of upgrades are larger sway bars, I found that Sikky makes a 32mm front sway bar, it also allows you to run the crazy modified knuckles without hitting the sway bar. Scroll to the very last page of the install instructions for pictures of how the sway bar is now parallel to the tension rod. http://www.sikky.com/images/pdf/1285...on%20Guide.pdf

I was wondering if anyone has this installed on their car and can confirm that it will work with a Nismo power brace? If no one can confirm I will just call up Sikky and ask, but figured someone on here has this sway bar and could give some input.

tanabe just as thick almost, very very light = prosper

I'd lean towards the Sikky just because it's been designed with two things in mind:

1) Excessive Steering Angle.

2) Clearing non-KA/SR Oil pans. I've got a 1J in my car and there's no way to run a normal S-Chassis Sway Bar without hitting the Oil Pan.

apparently the sikky one is heavy like an anchor

The old ones were cause they were solid. Now I believe the 32mm are hollows. (Something to take the place that Largus left open)

can you confirm that? i thought they were still solid

^ hollow as fuck

Tanabe USA Inc. - Sustec Stabilizer

i know the tanabe is hollow... i have one... but can anyone actually confirm directly from sikky that it is in fact hollow now and no longer solid

Nissan S13 Front Sway BarSuspension

Also hollow as fuck

"32mm tubular sway bar"

Just got off the phone with Sikky, here's what I got. Their's is hollow, made of steel and will clear the Nismo power brace. I can see an argument for materials where the Tanable would be stronger since it is made of chromemoly.

so tell sikky next version to make a chromoly version haha

It's not about how light or hollow
it's about stiffness
:2c:

most of the people I know that track their cars
swear by Progress sway bars
so that's what I'll be trying

I track my car and want as light of a swaybar as possible. Why bother trying to reduce weight on your car to hang a huge heavy sway bar out front that offers no extra stiffness over a hollow bar of just slightly larger outer diameter?

I'm almost to the point of selling my Whitelines and going with Hollow ones myself. Can't say I had any issue, but they are are pretty heavy!

This and if you haven't held a tanabe swaybar you wouldn't know what I'm talking about. It's literally feather weight and if i recall honestly felt lighter than the stock garbage... so yeah...

You will gain more from lightening unsprung weight on your car.

What wheels are you running? Light wheels along with aluminum bodied coilovers would help quite a bit.

I run RPF1's, they don't get much lighter than that. Not only that, my DefSport brakes drop almost 20 lbs off a set of Z32 brakes up front.

You get the most out of making your car as light as possible everywhere.

Ummmm, isn't 32mm freakin' HUGE? What rear bar are you going to pair that with so you don't understeer? Tanabe's are 30.4 front and 27.5 rear.

I guess you could change your spring rates up to accommodate the differing bars.

sikky will be coming out with their own rears at well at 28mm and they are designed for dual exhaust setup (two hoops)