Rivnut/Nutsert experts needed!
 

been looking at how to determine which rivnut/nutsert size i need to fit the bolt below. im pretty confused from what google search comes up with. couple articles/threads say i need M14 because thats the size of the bolt head, but that doesn't make sense because the thread pitch is M10x1.25.

Need this bolt:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vS2...ew?usp=sharing

in here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CDuBBvmHN6T/

per fsm, this is the bolt im referring too:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FZf...ew?usp=sharing

You want a M10x1.25 rivnut.

Hey, not sure what year the car you're working on is, but here's an illustration of a 1993 240sx. Anchor Bolt part #01125-01271. there is no nutsert, looks like it threads into the tension rod. Nissan North America still provides this anchor bolt.

https://i.imgur.com/hGumV1p.png

Thats not a rivnut, its a captured nut (weld from inside the rail)

U need to cut open the rail(access point) and either reweld the nut back on to the rail or use a new nut and hold it with a wrench when tighten the bolt. U can reweld the cut frame section (access point) back up after.

A rivnut will not fill that void for the appropriate thread u need nor will it take the torque on the bolt


Actually thinkn...with out lookn at the car infront of me u might beable to gain access to it from the front of the frame rail..it is open...

this makes sense, but i cant seem to find any M10x1.25. plenty of M10, but many do not have the 1.25 details part so idk if my bolt will thread in properly. and for those that do list it, are just M10x1.5.

92 240sx fastback

that's not the bolt im referring to. im referring to the bolt that holds the power brace/tension rod bracket sorta in the middle to the frame rail.

i was hoping i didnt need to do this. from the front, the driver side is closed, but it looks like i can prob just bend the metal over, maybe...but idk.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vwL...ew?usp=sharing

if all else fails, fuck it part out...hahaha

you'll have to weld it stated from s14rebuild.

this link will send you to the proper weld nut.

https://www.mcmaster.com/nuts/nut-type~weld/

how to do it? well bolt on the nut to the bolt. then weld the nut with the bolt on. as mentioned above, access it as what S14rebuild said.

i had to this once for the lower control arm for a Lancer where the original weld nut broke off. also from other engineering experiences.

sounds good. thanks.

i was hoping a heavy duty or steel one might work, but guess not.

Ive even used a hole saw on the side of the rail, to gain access, nothing huge, stuck my finger in, so i could hold the nut as i threaded the bolt in.. after u can leave the hole there(wont cause and structural issues), or use the peice u hole sawed out and weld it back in place.

Really not a big deal. 30-45mins top with the proper tools

sounds good. not a big deal for someone experienced, but im a level 2 noob. i know my basics and know how to search only. glad to know a hole wont make a huge difference and cause structural issues. may prob just make one of the many holes on the side bigger then. THANKS!

it's not thick steel. use a hole saw to cut it from the top to access the weld nut. do not cut it up in a square shape. corners of squared, perpendicular, or 90 degree corners causes structural failure.

^been explained

https://i.imgur.com/hGumV1p.png[/QUOTE]

Can anyone confirm that the bolt 54502 is identical for S13 and S14 all years?

I have some kind of weird, pop/snap/clunk in the front end, whenever turning left or right. It only does it once each way, like if I make a right *clunk* it won't clunk again until I turn left. So I think there is a wrong bolt size somewhere in the car from previous owner. Any idears... lol about to rip the whole thing apart.

it doesnt affect the steering, toe, tie rods, rack, nothing to do with alignment so I ruled all that out.
The sway bar(sikky), TCrods, and all the bushings(incl LCA) and ball joints/struts/strut mounts are new. So I am down to bolts and worn out metal parts I guess.

Its the same....

Any chance u check steering rack bushings?

I figure if it was the rack the alignment or toe would go out everytime whatever it was moved.

It could just be the sway bar. Im so lazy all I have to do is remove 1 nut to check and its been 3 years and I still haven't done it XD

but im running out of stuff to do to the car so

I had popping/snapping noise coming from my front suspension area in the past, same symptoms you're explaining. For me it turned out to be my front wheel spacers were warped.. lol After removing/replacing the warped wheel spacers, the noise went away.

Theoretically, he could just drill a couple pilot holes at the 4 corners of the nut and weld through the sheet metal to the nut. It’ll serve the same purpose as having access to the backside without cutting a huge hole. Put the bolt in from the opposite side of you can, thread the “captured” nut on the outside and mark where you need to drill. Reverse order and a few hits with a mig and you’re done...