Gk tech aplause keep making this.

Anybody know where DXTM-16 is in stock stateside?

what is the size of the bore for the bearing? would like to retrofit that upright for my awd setup.

There is no bearing for the S chassis, they run a spindle. The ID is 50mm's and the spindle is shrink fit in the upright and also secured in the rear with a nut.

The upright could potentially be used in many custom applications.

What vehicle is it? We are also releasing a Skyline version later this year.

Regards,
Greg

sss u13 bluebird 1993

This is some of the best news Ive seen!

GK:
When are your Rear Uprights to be released?
Matching Front Knuckles and Rear Uprights will be awesome.

Waiting in line :)

Anybody? Helpmeplease.

Got my knuckles modded, dropped down to fix the roll center, 0 ackerman, and went with S14 LCA's w/bump stops removed and boxed in. The package is available from DR Motorsports in North Carolina.

http://i48.tinypic.com/2zr2j55.jpg

and a vid testing.

**Not on a Track or at a Sanctioned Event**

how many degrees are you achieving with these knuckles? and what is the price? TrustS13?

That's a nice setup!

So lets talk about traction arms, how much do you usually lengthen them vs lengthening of camber arm and have any of you measured bumpsteer before and after?

Some stuff from NRR by Full race Geoff:

Nismo Z-tune:
Link

i have the tein s14 inners, seems like im coming up short... are there anything longer than s14 inner tierods?

i planned to get pdm offset spacer but, is there such things as extension adapters/spacer (that doesnt change the offset)?

^ look back thru this thread. there are a few years of Infiniti I30s ('94 thru '98 maybe?) with tie rods identical to the s14 PLUS another 35mm iirc. buy those and cut them down to length if needed.

...which (now that i think about it) should also cross-reference with a Nissan Maxima since they shared the same chassis.

They're in development now and should be finished within the coming weeks. The fronts will getting fitted up late this week and we have 3 different steering arm designs already finished with more on the way.

please tell me you've made it modular for the z32 style fork vs hole design :-/

I am using Maxima A32 ones, they are about that much longer indeed

We are trying to incorporate a modular mount however we know if this is going to be achievable until we've done a bit more FEA work.

If you are I would like yo throw out that the stock Z32 angle of the Shock mount holds a weird angle when put on S14's. 13's its OK it when installed on 14's that the angle is weird. At least from what I've seen.

I may have to use these do youj think they would be long enough with a spacer on the pass side with 1" extended S14 lca on an S13? Or could I get away with a spacer on each side, and continue to use my S14 inner tie rods? And one last thing, I've heard that using 2 spacer will cause overcentering of the rack, is this true in all casses?


Missile Media™2011

We have already seen this when we modeled the 2 rears. The toe arm is also a fair bit lower on the Z32's.

We've done some initial toe curve comparisons to see where we want/need the adjustment. See attached file.

EDIT: attached file doesn't seem to work? See it here: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...levant_count=1

i have an s13, and if you read my previous posts, you would know that i have DA shocks that are adjusted on the bottom. If I had s13 style shock mount I would have to literally to the shock off the car, take the damper outside of the housing and adjust. No thank you.

And no I don't want garbage china 'coilovers'. I have proven race shocks...

Z32 rear fork and enough room for Q45 axles would be so nice, then I wouldn't have to mod them for my Q45. lol

:drama:





Ahhh you guys are awesome!




I'm not talking to you?......
I was talking to GK about making different Modular Z32 Mounts...

Are you saying the Z32 rear knuckle toe link, pickup point is in a different height position in comparison to a factory S-chassis knuckle?

GKTECH would the adjustable bracket for the tie rod, for the 599 would u get just one, per side? since u mentioned some brakets will be longer, some would be used for drift and other for road racing, or how much would it be per each additional bracket?

Is this what you're looking for? S14 rear bumpsteer graphs?
New S14 bumpsteer graphs - Nissan Road Racing Forums

$599 will include 1 set of steering arms and we're expecting replacement steering arms to be around the $99/pair mark. At this stage we've modeled the standard position, DW and an intermediate which is right in the middle of the 2 in length and ackerman. We'll also release more in the future and given the modular nature of the knuckles, it certainly won't be hard for people to make their own.

Make a set of steering arms that are shortest possible with no ackerman for parallel steering.

We will in the future. For now we've got the standard location, extreme drift and intermediate which is right in the middle. We're expecting the steering arms to sell for $99/pair.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...20357512_n.jpg

Thanks for the answer on the tie rod question guys, or any question I have asked on here for that matter, anyways, Mods, could we possibly start requiring more of new members, the post above GK Tech's last post is the second spam I have seen on this thread alone

Missile Media™2011

GKTech, are you giving us estimated pricing in USD or AUD? It doesn't make that much of a difference at the moment, but I'd imagine a good swing for either currency could make your price jump a bit...

The prices that we're giving are in AUD however the price will actually be minus 10% as you won't have to pay our sales tax (in Australia we have to include the tax in the listed price)

Ie. The introductory price for the knuckles will be $545AUD for anyone outside of Australia plus shipping

GKtech, you mind sharing the measurements for the steering pickup? :p

No problem. I'll get a diagram put together to show the difference between the 3 steering arms

It looks like that shorter arm already has 0 ackerman but I can't tell.

post it wrong

It looks a little angled inward to me, I could be wrong, so I am expecting minimal ackerman, but none the less some amount

Missile Media™2011

We're just putting the simulations together to show the ackerman of each but as mentioned previously, as they're modular it's very easy for us (or you) to make a new steering arm.

P.S here's a little (big) update:

They are alive! Our first S chassis production samples have been assembled (albeit I did put the brake caliper mounts on the wrong sides) but they are together.

We'll get them test fitted in the next week and then start some destructive testing.

Watch this space.


http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...74193039_n.jpg

^ i have a suspicion that a few years down the road some young kid somewhere will try to assemble a used set of your knuckles, find that picture you just posted (with the caliper mounts installed backwards), get really pissy about his brakes not mounting correctly, and come whining to you for help.

i'll go ahead and put money on it.

fair warning :w00t:




...also, those knuckles looks SO boss. keep up the awesome work, guys! :bigok:

^^the truth ^^^

Time to go change my pants :)

We'll take some pro shots in the next few days and take these ones down, just waiting for the photo guy to turn up with his magic light tent and thought we'd share the quick photo I took on my phone.

Glad you like them :)

those look excellent. i love all the options we're getting nowadays in suspension.

GKTECH!

I just remembered something can't believe no body mentioned this by now!

Since these are machined custom knuckles! Why not use STRONGER wheel bearings?! Once that can take negative wheel offset better, abuse and power better, grip better?

I remember def talking about trying ot use some kinda nissan truck or z wheel bearings instead of the stock ones....

Amazing knuckle as i've already told you GKTECH. Are those steel inserts pressed in for the lca pickup and damper mount? 6000 series or 7000 series? A couple weeks later and i'm still at a loss for words at the quality and value in that setup.


On another subtopic, who has had to extend their steering column after moving the rack forwards? I'm at the point where i have to now but have yet to see it mentioned.

Been working on this the past week or so after twisting my own arm on need and want..... You know how it is. Project car life....

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...terspacer4.jpg

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...erspacers2.jpg

Probably can swing a bit more out of this. LCA is stock s13 length at the moment and tension rod is also factory length. Rack is moved forward. Maybe 3mm between it and the crossmember. Nevermind the oem dampers.....

anyone here running the PSM rear knuckles, what is your alternative parking brake if you have one?

What about using two of these:

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...a/IMG_0002.jpg

+ Extended Bolts?

For us to create a new spindle isn't hard, we could machine them up as a special order if there were 10 or so people interested. In Australia bearing upgrades for the S chassis aren't too common and I've never heard of any wheel bearing issues, other than old bearings wearing out. We're certainly open to options so feel free to share your thoughts :)

The inserts aren't pressed in, they're a tight fit but can be removed by hand (this is intentional). The steel inserts and spindle are machined from 40CrMo

For anyone who can weld, it should not be hard to just extend the shaft that goes between the rack and firewall.
It may also be worth a try to see if any other Nissan/Infiniti uses a longer one that could be a direct swap.

Finally. Been waiting for these to come out for a long time. Super beefy mode.

ã‚¹ãƒ†ã‚¢ãƒªãƒ³ã‚°ã®åˆ‡ã‚Œè§ ’up Super Steering Angle Parts - POWERED BY MAX

From Parts Shop Max's page.

" We are proud to release this very unique part! First a warning. The downside of the spherical bearing or pillowball joint is that it cant be used on OEM type strut and spring because the range of motion is 30 degrees, thats about half of the OEM tie rod range. The OEM suspension has tons of down travel which is where the tie rod needs to have a lot of droop. Some Coilovers like KW that are not full tap coilovers have a lot of droop too, like stock, but for almost everyone whose coilovers have 50% or less travel than stock suspension, this is no problem at all! This joint range of motion has nothing to do with steering angle because the tie rod joint hardly moves while pushing the knuckles steering arm, most of the joint motion is from suspension compression and droop. The limited range of motion actually allows us to beef up the skinniest part of the tie rod, its 50% thicker near the edge of the ball housing. Because S13 Spec is only 12mm thread, we only offer this in S14 spec which is M14 1.5 thread. The thread that attaches to the tie rod end is 20mm longer than stock. The thread that goes into the rack is 7mm longer then stock. We have moved the typical hex position from the middle of the rod where forces can focus on the sharp edges of the hex to bend and crack under stress to a larger 20mm DIA section near the boot retainer. The star of the show here is the precision teflon lined maintenance free spherical bearing that replaces the OEM style plastic lined joint used in every other tie rod on the market today. This allows way more joint strength and a more direct steering feel. The extended length is a perfect compliment to our FLCA and Super steering angle knuckles, but the length may need to be cut down if used with standard knuckles and lower control arms.

~ Teflon lined spherical bearing joint
~ 7mm built in rack spacer for increased steering angle
~ 7mm longer rack threads
~ 20mm longer threads on the tie rod end
~ Black electro coating with gold plated lock ring
~ CrMo rod material "

http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_fil...7_dsc04247.jpg
http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_fil...7_dsc04245.jpg

I believe the outer tie rod is still on the making?

Just ordered a pair, because I am sure they will sell out soon. :)

Is there a good 'rule of thumb' for extending the FLCA?
I want to pick up some new S13 ones and have them lengthened because my S14 ones are not as long as I would like, but at the same time I do not want them too extreme.
Also, does anyone on here provide the service?
Cheers.

Exactly what i did. Cut/weld. When i did cut the thicker part of the shaft, i did note it was HOLLOW as well as fluted/splined. It's two piece. The part that fits into the u joint on the rack slips into the shaft splines. Just a thought. Maybe someone can take that and run with it. Couldn't get decent pics of what i did with my phone but i just used free scraps i had laying around and didn't think too hard about it.




Motary, as i was undoing those bolts for the bushing the 12mm started to round off before i even broke seating torque. I didn't even want to mess with fixing that....

I moved my rack forward 25-30mm but I didn't have to lengthen my steering shaft... The connector joint bolted up fine and haven't had any issue with it for past year.

Are some columns/shafts longer?

I don't think there's any rule of thumb. BUT, I extended mine 1.5" and now I feel like I should have just done 1".

Basically, I rubbed the frame rail a bit before. Now I have about 3/4" clearance at lock.

Where is the extra length on S14 FCAs? Inward or outward of the TC rod?

which side of the control are do you normally extend?
i've given up trying to get s14 lca, so just gonna pony up and buy another set of s13s and extend them. Would like to get -3 w/o using Camber plates

JC, you would extend after the TC rod, before the balljoint(obviously lol.)

Mikerbike, the s14 LCA is longer between the TC rod and balljoint. But the difference in length only adds around 1* more negative camber over what you would have had with s13 LCAs.

That is would i would assume. The only one I've seen diff was Kyle Pollard's, he extended between the tension rod and chassis.
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...05510130_n.jpg

ill ask kyle this week why he extended it on that side... I would think you would want to move away from the tension rod.

I know he was wanting to move the wheel out cause it was hitting the frame rail

ya, just seems that would stress the tension rod components, but in the pic it looks fine.

I posted my setup earlier, but here it is in action.

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...01874790_o.jpg
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...34819332_o.jpg
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...19923695_n.jpg

Would more positive caster be beneficial for 'snap' steering?

Most setup tips seem to focus on angle, but is there a checklist for making my car steer like this? :)

That car actually doesn't have a lot of caster. Making the steering arm extra short allows you to flick or snap the steering wheel extra fast. Also having the proper low-speed rebound setting on your shocks helps.

326 Power knuckles are not that short though (as seen below) basically any aftermarket knuckle made for drifting will allow you to do that.

http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/r...driftspeed.jpg

Matej, that car reminds me alot of how Mitsuru used to snap his fc around. That driving style is my favorite. :wackit:

Wonder if they are running swaybars F&R?


I have no idea. That's interesting though and relevant in the thread. For the record, usdm 240sx s13. 20mm give or take.

I havn't even moved my rack and all of a sudden I can't quite get my universal joint down far enough onto the steering rack?! Anybody have any idea how to lengthen an S14 steering rack? It looks like there is a splined slip joint on the rack, but I can't get it to slide there at all. I'd love to ditch my urethane steering rack bushings for the MAX solid ones, but first I've got to make sure I can get the steering rack back on. Help?!

if im not mistaken the s14 lca is 17mm longer than the s13 and yes it is between the traction rod and the ball joint

Damnit. I've heard 1/4", 10mm, 12mm, 15mm and now 17mm. Not in that order. The steel strap I bought from Home depot was $7, IIRC. I used some scraps to box the arms after the extension. I'd imagine that's another $20 max. Cheaper and more effective than S14 stuff, IMO.

Been reading through this thread alot and its helped me get my supension tuned exactly how I want it. Its a 87 corolla with a VQ35 and s13/s14/ custom made suspension parts, using a Baddline S186 conversion control arm.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2...-18-38_581.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2...2-51-01_96.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2...-16-32_846.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2...-49-54_762.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2...2-41-12_27.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2...-46-30_183.jpg
Gets alot more lock with tension on the steering wheel.

I dropped off my LCA's to get welded up by kyle today(figured id have a professional do these) and asked him about the LCA extending before the tension rod. He said his wheels dont hit the tension rod because he runs spacers and has the top hats all the way out. so it didn't matter what side he added to. he just chose inner
I hope my inners are long enough!

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-78j_kEGwI7...2B1-703090.JPG

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tXxFwUrwyY...2B2-705185.JPG

passenger wheel is hitting tension rod before drivers side outer can contact the lca

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pG7KgfCAB3...2B1-797428.JPG

My Ikeya Formula inners weren't long enough. I had some extra KA cam bolts, a pair of nuts with the same thread pitch, and a pair of sleeves. Weld them together and what do you get? Bibbity-Bobbity-something.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1.../extension.jpg

Not sure how much of this I've posted already, but my setup is 1.5" extended CAs, knuckles chopped to 3.875" BJ-TR with ~0* ackerman, rack relocated ~30mm forward, TC rod misalignment spacers modified for more trailing wheel clearance, 17x7.5 +1.

are kazama s14 inner still spec to r32/33?

my maxima inners just arrived it's end thread is 3 inches/ 76.2 mm. i wish it was more beefy.

what power are you running and how are you liking the Zero ackerman? also how much correction was added?

Here's mine. The car doesnt have that crazy pre-loaded feel normally associated with slammed 240's

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...Picture003.jpg

Received the MAX tie rods yesterday. They look quite nice.


Has it been established that the S14 FLCA are 10mm longer?
I sold my S14 ones, but I would like to know the exact difference so I can account for it when I buy an S13 pair to have extended. Assuming the S14 FLCA were 10mm longer, I am having trouble deciding whether to have the S13 ones extended 3 or 4cm.

how low is your car? pics of control arm with the car on the ground-i almost went this route.

Why are you guys keeping the FLCA bushing? That's the 2nd worst bushing in our cars after the stock tension rod marshmellow.

Put a rod end there and the front of the car feels so much more precise.

Hooray!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...o/e17ca0f9.jpg

Hey guys,

Want to thank everyone for sharing their setups / gathered info. Helped point me in the right direction, and created a black hole in my wallet about a year ago :)

My cut / weld extended inners are wearing out, planning to replace them with an easy to find OEM one. So did some NAPA online research, wanted to share it with everyone:

89-94 240sx.. 11.10" (m12x1.25)
95-98 240sx.. 11.37"
94-99 maxima 11.42"
96-99 i30...... 11.42"
97-01 Q45..... 12.00" (same with 01-06)
00-04 i30...... 12.91"
99-03 maxima 12.91"
03-08 maxima 13.30" (same with 04-06)

Only problem: hate to loose the built in spacer. Going to try and machine the OEM's at work, but am scared that not enough is possible without removing too much of the "wrench flats". Wanted to buy George's spacers, but he doesnt make them anymore :(

Could anyone post a pic of the PSM new inner beside a ruller?

Can you guys post the materials maybe part # even in what you're using for the rod end at the end of the control arm and the threaded pipe part the rod end spins into? I made some a long time ago and cut off the end of a godspeed control arm and got a QA1 rod end. I want to make another set and dont remember dimensions..

http://matejblahut.com/gallery3/var/...bby/maxrod.jpg

MAX is black.
The silver one is Circuit Sports with a MAX spacer.

Those measurements above are obviously from end of the inner joint threads to the end of the rod threads.

Parts Shop MAX Spherical bearing CrMo S14 inner tie rods are about 12.5 inches measured in the same manner.


Here is all the info from the site:

We are proud to release this very unique part!
First a warning. The downside of the spherical bearing or pillowball joint is that it cant be used on OEM type strut and spring because the range of motion is 30 degrees, thats about half of the OEM tie rod range. The OEM suspension has tons of down travel which is where the tie rod needs to have a lot of droop. Some Coilovers like KW that are not full tap coilovers have a lot of droop too, like stock, but for almost everyone whose coilovers have 50% or less travel than stock suspension, this is no problem at all!
This joint range of motion has nothing to do with steering angle because the tie rod joint hardly moves while pushing the knuckles steering arm, most of the joint motion is from suspension compression and droop.
The limited range of motion actually allows us to beef up the skinniest part of the tie rod, its 50% thicker near the edge of the ball housing. Because S13 Spec is only 12mm thread, we only offer this in S14 spec which is M14 1.5 thread. The thread that attaches to the tie rod end is 20mm longer than stock. The thread that goes into the rack is 7mm longer then stock. We have moved the typical hex position from the middle of the rod where forces can focus on the sharp edges of the hex to bend and crack under stress to a larger 20mm DIA section near the boot retainer. The star of the show here is the precision teflon lined maintenance free spherical bearing that replaces the OEM style plastic lined joint used in every other tie rod on the market today. This allows way more joint strength and a more direct steering feel. The extended length is a perfect compliment to our FLCA and Super steering angle knuckles, but the length may need to be cut down if used with standard knuckles and lower control arms.

~ Teflon lined spherical bearing joint
~ 7mm built in rack spacer for increased steering angle
~ 7mm longer rack threads
~ 20mm longer threads on the tie rod end
~ Black electro coating with gold plated lock ring
~ CrMo rod material

$80/pair.
Add to cart on zilvia here
#/f/suspension/47404...-shop-max.html
or on our site here:
POWERED BY MAX

^^^How long are these new inners compared to the last pair or pbm inners?

the length did not change compared to our previous release. the joint changed.

Hey guys, I have a question. I've been lurking this whole thread for a while now and in the process of modifying my LCA's.

I extended my stock S13 LCA about 10-15mm longer, and was wondering if my stock tension rods would work for now ? If it does, would it give me crazy caster?

Here's what I read from another thread from codyace;


http://imageshack.us/a/img35/455/20120915163703.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img607/5583/20120915163641.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img827/8323/20120915180509.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img543/7697/20120916184850.jpg


Thanks.

^After thinking about it.....

didn't I keep the mounting points on the tension rod the same?
so it wouldn't affect any adjustments on the tension rod .?
it'll just affect whatever there is after the weld (ball joint, knuckles, camber)?

is this correct?

I have no idea. That's why I quoted the post I quoted.

I'm sure somebody somewhere has posted a pic and actual measurements. Possibly in this thread.

Since you're extending the control arm outward of the tension rod mount, the tension rod will be the same length as it was before. No significant change in Caster either, since you are moving the ball joint out at pretty close to 90* from where it was.

He didn't move the tie rod's pick up point though, which is the correct way to extend them.