Arp
 

Purchased ARP main head stud bolts and their ARP tread chaser and ARP tread sealer which both was recommended in the instructions for my S13 SR20det. I used the thread chaser in each hole, I cleaned each with compressed air, I made sure every bolt went in smoothly, HAND TIGHTEN ONLY. Went in the torque sequence pattern. 30ft. lb went good, then 60ft. lb.. then when i went to 90 like instructed.. bolt hole #7 to the front RT of the motor would not clcik at 90, so I skipped being scared to strip something. so 9/10 was at 90 ft. lb at this point. Went back to #7 bolt at 80 ft. lb, that clicked then to 85 ft lb...it compelely stripped.. had to removed the head that I just installed with the new Apexi HG to remove that head bolt, had the treading from the block on the bolt.... I pretty much need a new block due to ARP screwing me, don't know if this will be repairable. Being so close to completing my build to just be knocked back down...I regret purchasing ARP and honestly should have reused my OE bolts... that's how my experience using ARP went.

Did u use the appropriate lube with washers n nut heads?

the washers & nuts and lube that came in the box with with the head studs? Yes.

I have too snapped a ARP fastener torqued to their specifications. I was not pleased with their customer service and in all honesty I would go with another brand now. Sorry for your setback.

Dam, well sorry for the set back...

Ive installed arp headstuds on rb's sr's and ka's atleast 25 sets, never once had on break and how u describe uve installed them ive done the same.... maybe sumone eles can chime in on an issue here

Last set i did was for my sr and i remeber checkn like 7 times the final torque spec of 90fts and found everything from 90 to 80 to 65fts

I elected to go with 80fts and never once had issuses(apexi hg)

And yes the arp paper says 90fts that i did confirm...

You were tightening the nut and not the stud, right? Just checking.

I've also installed ARP head studs at 90 and it didn't pull the threads out. I didn't even chase them beforehand.

Well thats the issue, the stud was turning and not the nut. The clamping force is on the nut..so idk bout blaming arp for this
.the hardware they supplied didnt fail...

He didnt snap the stud, he PULLED the threads out of the block.....

Yea I saw that I was merely saying how I was disappointed in the quality. I mean metal is metal...there is no saying it’s a one off event. I haven’t had any issues with the other hardware but it did bother me as they’re one of the most prestigious names in the business.

Gotcha! Always seen arp as top quality but like anything its near impossible to runn 100%

I should have left it at 80ft.lb... shoulda coulda woulda... I went with ARP due to their big name.. I only wanted the best for my car. Time to take her off the road... need to buy a new reliable car to daily...will have to pull the motor, the cost of a timesert kit is about the same cost of a used block or longblock... minor set back for major comeback.

Yea, but 80lbs isnt gonna solve the issue, it seems like sum how the stud was turning as u were tighting the nut. Thats how it pulled the threads out the block. The studs are installed hand tight n dont move after that.

I mean, even if the stud doesn't turn it can still pull the threads up out of the block.

Doesn't Mazworx have their own proprietary head stud kit (also made by ARP) that's supposed to be the correct fix against this issue?

^if so then how would that be an issuse with arp studs, and not the threads of the block?

get a quick-sert/time-sert kit and you will be good to go...that's rough and frustrating...

I bought a Time-sert kit Part #2200 for $480 for anybody that may be dealing with similar issue. Kit is made for Toyota/Scion but its a M11 X 1.5 kit and comes with ten 30mm inserts. Should work, will find out.

https://imgur.com/Z3pZXXv

Time-sert came in and I'm torqued to spec. For anybody in the future, This Kit part #2200 will work for sr20det. Thank you

How do you get the shavings up out of the block after drilling and tapping?

Shopvac? Compressed air? Your mouth? Come on lol...

I rented an air compressor from Home Depot for four hours for $18, taped everything off. Used brake cleaner and compressed air to clean the newly tapped hole from all shavings and WD40/oil residue. A shop vac would be the best option because I blew the shavings EVERYWHERE in my garage. Make sure you wear safety glasses.

also iirc, I was close and got scared too so I called ARP and their printed instructions were incorrect...don't quote me but call them to double check...

I was thinking in regards to doing studs with the engine in the car.