GT2871 USERS. SR motor
 

OK. Ive been doing alot of research lately and the results have been dissapointing to me. I have yet to find a dyno sheet of a .86 owner making 400 +whp, but I have seen a few .64 owners making such numbers. I was under the impression that you dont need cams on the .86 to reach 400, and that 460whp was possible. Even more disturbing was the fact that motors using .64 exhaust housings made more power on similar boost than motors on .86 GT2871's.

So, if you have a .86 or .64 A/R GT2871R please post a dyno sheet with mods, or your numbers, espescially for those in the 400whp range. If anyone can make sense of my findings please feel free to explain what you know.

OB

You need cams to make 400.

s14 on the dyno and spec
 

s14 zenki/s13 sr20det (stock internals)/GT2871R turbo/z32 mafs/550cc injectors/adjustable FPR/Fuel Pressure gauge/SAFC/wideband O2 on the dynojet putting down 325rwhp http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHllxSOwiXE

Is that a .64, and do you have a ROM tune?

What boost is that car running?

friends car: .64ar with 256/256 tomeis, escort manifold, boosted 1.5bar yielded 380whp/360tq. that should give you an idea. play with the cams. how much u wanna boost?

I just dyno'd mine. The car was tuned at HKS USA on 91 octane pump gas (since that's what it will be running most of the time) and at 16.9 lbs of boost (1.15 bar). They had to limit it there since the b/c started spiking. Here is the graph:

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...DynoNorman.jpg

GT-RS is ismilar to 2871r .64. The motor has the following mods:

• S14 SR20DET
• Apex N1 exhaust
• CP Pistons (86.5mm Bore, 8.5:1 CR)
• Eagle H-Beam Rods
• Apex 1.1mm head gasket
• ARP head studs
• ARP exhaust manifold studs
• Blitz Stainless Steel downpipe
• Blitz SBC iColor Boost Controller (With wideband a/f and water temperature gauge)
• Exedy Hyper Single clutch
• Kazama Stainless Steel 80mm test pipe
• Greddy valve springs
• Greddy rocker arm stoppers
• Greddy intake manifold
• Greddy racing suction metal intake pipe
• Crower titanium valve retainers
• Greddy S14 hotpipe
• Greddy RSPL HG FMIC
• Megan Racing Turbo Extension
• HKS GT-RS turbo
• HKS 256/264 step 1 cams
• HKS stainless exhaust manifold
• HKS FCon VPro
• HKS Universal Power Flow filter
• HKS mechanical boost gauge
• HKS SSQV Blow off valve kit
• SARD adjustable fuel pressure regulator and fitting
• Tomei/NISMO 740cc injectors
• Tomei fuel pump
• Tomei 70mm Throttle Body

These turbos are designed for RESPONSE. Their efficiency levels off at around 19-20lbs. While it is possible to get 400 on these turbos I'd recommend a bigger turbo at lower boost.

Well he made 275 rwhp at 1 BAR, so probably like 1.4 BAR, or around 20psi?

Friends car with PFC when tuned made 375whp, stock bottom end. some headwork, 264 cams, tubular turbo mani, .86 housing, 15psi. I think it was on 100octane though. But still good power for very low boost.

Im I the only one with a .86?

cFinch used a .86 GT2871 on his 400whp Sr20 I think, try and dig up that thread. Everyone I know that has hit the 400 number has been using the .86 turbo, because the .64 levels off as you get close to redline. To add to that, every SINGLE person I know that has hit 400whp with a 2871 ends up getting a bigger turbo, like the GT3071 or T3/T4. It just doesnt pay off to run those types of boost numbers with that small a turbo.

Like USDM silvia said with the GT-RS (which is almost identical to the 2871 .64 BTW), those turbos are about hitting 350whp or so safely and with great response ~ if you want great response and 400whp, build the bottom end and put a lil n20 on it :)

there's a thread on FA right now where 3 people came forward with 400ish whp on .64's. cams, obviously. stock exhaust mani on at least one.

not sure about the .86. i haven't paid much attention to that turbo because it is too much for what i want = 375ish.

i think matt vass was going either .86 or 3071, can't remember.

Most people opted for the smaller trim. I made 310whp @1.2 bar on 91 octane with a boost leak in my coupling that i didnt find till a week later. From my impression, it all depends on the tuning setup too. Ive seen people make 400 running power fcs. Check out Scott Avoys *enthalpy* and i know he got dyno sheets posted up in there that can give you ideas. Its possible to hit 400whp with it but not a whole lot can. If you want to make more power than that, id suggest going top mount and going T3 flanged turbo.

with a .64, cams, injectors, enthalapy ECU, greddy intake man.. stock bottom.. although i had a big headgasket.. compression probably dropped to 8.1 i made 350whp at 19psi.. response on the car was great.. kicks in at very low RPM and felt great! excellent in my opinion for a daily driver..

Most of the dyno sheets Ive been reading are from Enthalpy. Torque seems to be kinda low on both .86 or .64. I remember reading that 460hp was possible, but Iver never seen any such numbers. The closest Ive seen was 427hp on a S14 for sale here. He didnt list if he had cams or not. Just said Z32 MAF, JWT ECU, 740's.

Looks like the S3 cams work really well with the .64 A/R version of the GT2871R.

I would have to agree. If you are going for 350-400whp run the .64 even if you dont quite hit your hp goal the response more than makes up for it. Responsive turbo cars are 1000times more fun to drive than laggy ones. If you are looking for over 400whp go with a top mount t3 flanged turbo or a gt30+

True, but where does that leave the .86 2871?

Anyone want a free turbo? LOL

ill buy your .86 if you change your mind

That would be me. Just simply extrude honed, and swain coated. IMO the cost of what I did will put you slight above a cheap crack-a-fold, but at about half the cost of a really nice bottom mount tubular setup. Major advantage of mine: It works, it fits, and it will never crack.

Thats me again :)


They work well with any response oriented engine. They are the most popular and powerful for a reason :)




Anywho, as some have said, it is achievable to reach 400 whp (and more) with a 2871r .64. I've got a stock bottom end redtop, running an 2871r .64 (extrude honed turbine side) and a stock (extruded and swaind) turbo manifold.

Simple parts that work with each other will always produce great results. All to often on these forums do we see mismatched cars that don't make the power they should (top end cams with small turbos, $1000 manifolds with $200 turbos etc etc)

My setup is pretty simple, and everything on the setup is designed to work in a way that creates maximum response and ultimate midrange torque. I take part in/compete in HPDE events, so I wasn't looking for some big power monster, as they are slow on the track, and not fun on the street. (Whats the point in roll racing from 60-120??) I'm a fan of being quick and having an all around animal of a car.

Mods:
Jim Wolf Technologies ECU
Cobra MAF
Mototron 60lbs Injectors
2871r .64 (extruded)
OEM turbo manifold (Extruded and swained)
Jim Wolf S3 Cams
Greddy o2 outlet
3" Downpipe
3" ExMag exhaust
Greddy Intake manifold.
Greddy FMIC setup.

Now this setup 'hopefully' will be making more power in the spring. I'm going to datalog my car, to send back out to JWT for a reflash and to have my water injection map tuned (for track days).

Here's the car:
http://www.e-rak.com/cody/albums/alb...2276.sized.jpg

Here's the Dyno Video (the speedo shot was done at 12 psi creeping to full....I will make another video of a speedo shot at a full 20 psi):

Youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDbB0b3xhHs
Download it here: http://govanman.com/ACEatthedyno.wmv

Here's the dyno:
@20 psi
http://www.e-rak.com/cody/albums/Dynos/ace240dyno.jpg

Just wondering, how's your mileage? Did it decrease?

wow codyace... that's an EXCELLENT setup. I agree that response and mid range is what makes these cars fun, and for your setup to hit 400whp is outstanding... and without standalone management! My hat's off to you ~

Thanks! I really gotta credit to Clark out at JWT. I'm unsure as to why everyone bashes JWT, because to be quite honest, they make a fine program and fantastic products. Certainly there are a few ponies extra to be had going standalone, but I'm the type of person that (if going standalone) would prefer to tune it myself....and being that I have ZERO knowledge in that area, JWT was the logical answer.

The setup is based (in my mind) in a maximum 'minimilist' setup. I love trying to extra the most out of the smallest setup. Hitting 400 hp would have been simple with a topmount and gt35r, but I'd rather have 400 hp on a quick spooling GT28 based turbo :) (Not to say a big top mount turbo isn't fun...because they certainly are, just in a very different way)

I've been told that the car should be capable of a low 12 second pass on streets, and mid to low 11's on slicks. To think my setup wasn't even BASED around the dragstrip too :)

While the dyno shows peak boost to start at 4100, I do achieve full spoool (20psi) at around 3750/3850 on the streets (I actually can make 10 psi around 3100/3200 rpm). I at one debated using a disco potato, but decided that I'd loose a 300 rpm in spool for a much greater top end.

To be quite honest, I would have been completly content with 300/320 whp. I typically drive daily with the EBC off, or at 15 psi...and even then it's plenty of power :)

With my 740cc injectors...i was getting 16-18mpg. More power = more gas suckage!!! Also depends on how boost happy you are. There were times i barely broke 200 miles to a tank.

Ok thanks Ray. I guess I'm not the only one :D

I get 29-31 on the highway cruising.


Now, if I decided that I'm gonna raise hell, lets just it's comparable to a v8 hehe :)

A Few of the AZ guys running 350 to the wheels on 100 oct get high 20's on gas mileage and one with the 86 trim hits 404 to the wheels and doesnt have a whole lot done to it.

Its all about the tune and correct installation of the products. Most of the guys have atleast 5 maps for different levels of boost and octane to help achieve safety/performance/economy in their cars. Who am I talking about? Champa,George,Blair,Justin. Justin has the fullrace silver s13 coupe, you may have seen some pics of him around (IE picture sucks thread)

Honestly responce > power goal... its how you use the power that counts. I aim for 300whp on a GT2535.. now that will be fun :)

I'll never understand the fascination with high octane fuel. 350 DOES NOT require big fuel.

Again, why the need for all these maps? Are they running MAP based systems or? I will have 2 maps only for my car. Street, and track...the only difference being the track map will have a Water/Alcohol Injection setup with it. (For safety and durability)

Amen brother. I've been trying to preach that forever, yet no one seems to catch on.

codyace : for 350 they run it just because they have it avaliable... the maps are set on some of them for 91 and those have dyno-ed at 350 but when they feel like it they run 100 for fun or at events that they will run harder and usually during the summer as well with the heat out here.

the two cars that do run more than two maps do it so they have one for 91 with low boost, 91 with high boost, 100 with low boost, 100 with high boost. one guy (george) is known as the guy with the holly sr because never has it ran like crap or blown... it runs like a champ at all times lol lucky fuck.

Yeah the VPro has like 4 maps so in the future I'll do another dyno tune for race gas.

I'm using the .86 but unfortunately haven't had it to the dyno just yet. Although with my previous setup I was able to do a 11.59 @ 114 in the 1/4. That was with an FP Big28. My new best with the current setup is [email protected] (actually lifted due to misfiring). Previous dyno on the FP turbo showed 339hp & 361 torque. If I had to guess I would say I'm over 400hp and 400trq. But thats just a guess.

Modifications:

S13 redtop SR
GT2871R
AEM Tru-Boost gauge/controller
Megan Racing Turbo Manifold
Z32 MAF
Nismo 555cc Injectors
Enthalpy Tuned ECU
HKS 264 Step 2 cams
Comp Cam Springs
Cometic Headgasket
ARP headstuds
Greddy Rocker Arm Stoppers
HKS intake
Hybridynamics intake pipe

Anyone have any updates on this? Specifically with the .86? I should be on the dyno within the next month or so and Im looking to see which cam is best suited for this turbine.

What about compairing the 2871r .64 to the 2871GT-RS style.....any power difference?

I know the GTRS style is a direct bolt on but will the 2871r (non-gtrs style) make more hp?

JWT S4 cams.

Hey Cody, Havnt seen you on either forums for a while. I was really looking into the S4 cams, or the BC 264 intake/ 272 exhaust cams. You are running S4 cams correct? Can you give me any feedback on thier specs and performance. For instance how is drivability, idle, etc?

I'm actually using JWT s3 cams, as I have a slightly smaller turbo, and was looking for the best mid range cam I could find for my HPDE driving. Idle is fine at stock 850, but for the most part it's suggested that you bump the idle up via IACV to about 925-950. When you order JWT ECU's, and you have their cams, you can actually ask for their S3 / S4 / S5 idle program to compensate.

The S4 cams however are better suited to your larger, .86 housing turbo, as it's more of a upper mid end to top end camshaft. Would S3's work? Yes, and well, but S4's IMO are better suited for the 2871r .86 and larger turbos, with the S3's being better for the 2871r .64, 28rs, and smaller series turbos (but they too work ok with larger ones.)

It's a trade off, but not in a bad way :D Either way you go will be good, but I tend to think S4's are just better per that application.

That makes sense. What do you think about the Crower cams. The price is great and I was thinking of going 272 exhaust and 264 intake. The s4 cams are comparable to 264's right? or is it 272's?

Hey we missed you at the 240 meet. We are havning another one in May, maybe this time it wont rain. It would be nice to see your car in person.

I have HKS Step 2 272 EX 264 IN cams, with a 2871 .86. I'm waiting on my head work and block to get back from the machine shop so I haven't tuned or dynoed yet. I know I've read in prior posts that this combination will have a smoother power band with torque that levels off at a highier RPM.

Great. Make sure you post when you get everything together. Very interested in seeing your results even if its a butt dyno.

I just noticed you live in lancaster, are you going to Nico fest in Carlise next month?

I don't have any input on BC cams, nor do I know enough results from the forum to give you an opinion them.

With that said however, I will say that JWT puts THE MOST time, effort, and research into Cam design and testing, and offers a product that is superior to all. The downfall of them is their cost, but it's a cost that's well worth it. I hope to someday be able to step up to a C series cam :D

Certainly! keep my informed!

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...napackDyno.jpg

This is 2871R .86. Runs were at 14psi, 16psi, and 19psi. Running HKS 264 Step 1 Cams and Greddy Intake Manifold. Clutch was slipping pretty bad on the 16psi and 19psi runs. I'll be redynoing Sunday with new Clutch, Flywheel, and Brian Crower 264 Cams. Ill post the new graph when i get it.

Only if it's on ESPN I'm 2000 miles from there!

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...oRuns16psi.jpg

Heres my Dyno Run on the 2871R .86 today @ 16-17psi. I wanted to dyno around 19psi but was having some issues trying to do so.

let me guess crappy internal gate being a PITA to work with?

I think that too. Im really debating on Swapping to a T3 .63 housing and going Top Mount with 38 or 44mm External Gate. Anyone know of an actuator the same design as the 2871R one to upgrade too?

I dunno why these guys have such a problem with internal gates and the creep issues....I NEVER had any issue with it (except when it would get like 25 degrees out it may creep a 1 psi) with my car or any of the sentras....

The HKS one works as a replacement for the Garrett unit...

Ill try to mount the HKS actuator next time i remove the turbo assembly. Earlier in the day i blew a IC pipe off and then fixed it before dynoing so it could have messed with the boost settings a bit on the AVCR. Theres another dyno in a few weeks. Ill do what i can to get 19-20psi to hold and redyno. Id love to see 400whp but i think its pushing the 2871R alot. Id rather have a GT30R to be honest.

I don't think 400 whp is much for the 2871rs....they're still effecient at that 20 psi airflow level, and offer response that you can't find anywhere in larger turbos.


I guess growing up in a v8 house has spoiled me...I could never own a turbo car that doesn't make 300 ft lbs at 3500/4k....

I recently dyno'd my 2871R and got 378hp and 312trq with a slipping clutch and only 1 bolt holding the turbo on (yes I said one bolt) I had a habit of checking them every so often but I thought I finally go the problem fixed...i guess not. I dyno'd 353hp and 278trq at 15psi. (btw, these were done on a dyno jet) I know I'm making more power than I put down b/c I've been to the track twice before the dyno and I'm running .4-.5 slower in the 1/4. Last year I was able to pull a 11.0 @ 125....best I've got this year as been a 11.4 @ 122. I'm thinking alot of power is lost from the air leaking out between the manifold and the turbo and also some power lost from the clutch not letting it get back to the rear tires....

got a rps 6puck, fidanza flywheel coming, and I will be putting the other 3 bolts back in the turbo and may hit up the dyno again.

So the nuts on the maifold all fell out leaving only 1 holding it in place??

haha, yes. I had a problem keeping them on for a while and used to check them quite oftem but i had seemed to have gotten rid of that problem so i quit checking them. I guess I didn't get rid of the problem :(

s13 envy when are you going to redyno? with all the bolts to see if your numbers change? i'm guessing the low torque is from the slipping clutch?

i was wondering about the trq being so low as well. I dont know if it was actually slipping on the dyno or not. I would guess so, but *shrugs* I dont know when I'll get back to the dyno. Don't realy have the money to spend right now. I will let you know when I do though.

just had b/c (264) cams installed on my sr, they're bad ass, my topend is a lot faster then it was and the idle is still rock solid with a little cam loop after it warms up. idle is at 750. i'll be going to rt tuning in the coming weeks to see what #'s it puts down. anyone interested it a dyno day?

Id be interested in a dyno day but RT Tuning is a far drive for me.

S13Envy, I think your low torque is just from the 15psi boost. From your 15psi numbers, it doesnt seem like torque was dropping any. Post up the dyno. If the clutch was slipping, then youll have similar torque curves like my Dynapack graph above. It hits peak then slips really bad which shows the torque dropping. With a new clutch, i ended up making 25whp at the same boost because the torque was able to hold solid to redline. We both probably make around the same HP numbers. Ill let you know on track times since ill be going this friday. I wont be in any 11 second range but im hoping for trap speeds in the 120-125mph area. Alots gonna depend on if i get my boost leaks fixed to run 20psi. Otherwise ill be stuck down around 16-17psi.

i did 312trq at something like 24lbs....did 278trq at my 15lbs pull. here is the dyno sheet. Dont mind the AFRs too much...I ran open downpipe and they couldn't keep the probe in the exhaust. It actualy shot out and hit the wall on one of the runs. I've never seen anything over low 12 AFR's on my wideband...maybe my wideband is getting old...I know I could use some bigger injectors for sure. Btw, the runs were done with unleaded 104 octane.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...yno4-21-07.jpg

wow thats nice! please keep us updated on the next dyno sessions. i want the .86 turbo myself. so i want to see what its (proven) capable of.

Definitly doesnt look like your clutch was slipping. Whats your Exhaust and Cam setup?

Totally agree. For 24 psi, that is a very weak dyno. Either it's reading low, or there are stock cams in there....

I was running open downpipe there and I'm running the HKS step 2 264's...I think i may have a boost leak....I found a questionable coupler with some decnet size cracks in it.

Does anyone know what the 2871R is good for boost wise?

the only thing i dont get is that I trapped 128 in the 1/4...I've never seen any 240 with 375whp trapping that speed. Maybe since I fixed the turbo bolts and clutch slippage the power is up to where it shoudl be now....but i wont know until I get it back to the dyno.

boost is measured at the intake manifold, so fixing a boost leak would just let you reach your target boost sooner, with the turbo spinning at a more efficient speed. 128 traps are fast as shit... I'm only trapping 140 or so on my 10.2 sec bike...

hmmm, i dunno. i just need to get it back on the dyno and find out for sure

Great setup,
How do you think switching to (JWT C1 cams, retainers, and strings) would affect your setup, power, midrange, spool, overall fun?

The dyno numbers are reading off. If you check out any other SR dyno. 300tq @ 7krpm is 400whp. 128mph trap is almost 450whp in a full weight S13 i think. 2871R is effecient to around 21psi from doing compressor math. You definitly have one of the fastest 2871R setups ive seen.

Actually boost leaks effect the engine alot if your running MAF still. What happens is the MAF senses the air going into the Turbo then if air leaves anywhere before the Intake Manifold your not getting as much air into the motor as the MAF originally read which creates a rich effect from more fuel being added then actually needed. I had around 3-4 small leaks in my IC setup which made my AFR run in the 10.9 area then after i fixed them i was running back up to 11.7 area where it should be. MAP sensor cars wouldnt really matter much since there based on getting the air measured at the intake manifold.

CAn someone give some info on this please?

Is their any power difference?

yea i would like to know about this also. and s13envy and i have a very close setup. i have,

red top bored to 86.5 with weisco piston. 8.5/1
cometic 1.2 metal hg
hks s2 264in/272ex cams
greddy intake
2871r .86 old style internal gated
enthalpy tune
nismo 740cc inj.
nismo fpr
z32 MAF
mr mani.
greddy o2 pipe
mr dp
mr mid pipe
apexi gt spec ex.

now i've talked to s13envy b4 but mine just doesn't seem like it runs that good. i can only about 3 cars on my friends stock sr with me running 22psi. it run's real rich but i've turned the fpr down. it should be at 36 psi. like steve shadows said my w/g jumps so much. i was going to sell the turbo and get the new gt-rs 2871r with the .64 and p/fc and go to the excel shop in columbus,oh. although i have yet to dyno it so maybe some small adjustments would help. there's no boost leaks, everything is button'd up i just don't know. any idea's on the new setup with the .64 and p/fc? don't go with? go with. codyace your setup is what i'm looking for although i don't need 400 whp. s13envy your setup as well like we've
talk about b4.

they are both t28 housings and both gt turbine wheels of the same spec. iirc

If what you guys are saying is true about the housing just being internally gated and the compressor housing size and design.

The other difference is the compressor housing side. One beng to4b (not bolt on version) and one being a t25 style with triangle outlet flange.

HP diff? Turbine housing size and AR and will make the biggest difference overall, if they are both the same I cant seeing the volume or displacement of the compressor housing making a huge difference in numbers with the same compressor wheel, but i suppose lag might be slightly slighly reduced by the smaller t25 style bolt up design.

The to4b compressor housing could (theoretically) allow more shoulder room to the large crammed compressor wheel in overall output. It's a great question to ask someone who works for garrett or whos sharper with fluid dynamics.

plus Paul what are you doing! go get a 3071R maybe even twin scroll haha

car sould be running by tomrrow w/ the new set-up so, we'll see how she does.

hit the dyno , then u and luke better watch out.. LOL , j/k

:naughtyd:

update guys! got rid of my old setup....going with sc61, 38mm wastegate, 810cc inj, ect! :)

The 2871R was an awesome turbo for me, but for some reason I decided I want more power lol..Its a sickness

[quote=steve shadows;1408014]they are both t28 housings and both gt turbine wheels of the same spec. iirc

If what you guys are saying is true about the housing just being internally gated and the compressor housing size and design.

The other difference is the compressor housing side. One beng to4b (not bolt on version) and one being a t25 style with triangle outlet flange.

HP diff? Turbine housing size and AR and will make the biggest difference overall, if they are both the same I cant seeing the volume or displacement of the compressor housing making a huge difference in numbers with the same compressor wheel, but i suppose lag might be slightly slighly reduced by the smaller t25 style bolt up design.

The to4b compressor housing could (theoretically) allow more shoulder room to the large crammed compressor wheel in overall output. It's a great question to ask someone who works for garrett or whos sharper with fluid dynamics.

reds14-i firured it was the same maybe spool time was diff. thats about it.

update guys! got rid of my old setup....going with sc61, 38mm wastegate, 810cc inj, ect! :)

The 2871R was an awesome turbo for me, but for some reason I decided I want more power lol..Its a sickness06-08-2007 02:42 AM

reds14-damn man is your turbo the gt-rs style or old style. your should bad ass like its not already. good luck.

if you click the shadowerks myspace links in my sig and click on videos there are a couple crappy vids of my car on piss 91 octane with a conservative tune, a little laggy but car was really fast up top. (sc61)

oh and i cant wait paul :coolugh: haha jk

-paul- did you go 2871R .64?

is your sc61 ball bearing? which wheel on compressor housing is it using?

It was not ball bearing (a ball bearing one would just basically be a gt35r). The gt35r compressor wheel is the t61 (sc61) wheel. If your going BB just ge the gt35r the turbine wheel on the 35r is more efficent.

TO4S compressor housing .70 AR standard style. T61 compressor wheel (6 blade same an newer gt35r and gt40r varients). I used a stage 5 t3 turbine wheel with a .63 ar turbine housing. Great turbo for FWY raicng and good for drag.

sc61 is already on the way...atleast i think. I'm not 100% on the specs due to the fact that turbo specs confused the ever living shit outta me. I dont have the patience to learn what means what.

btw, what does FWY mean?

Im sure he means Freeway racing, ya know HWY=Highway so FWY= Freeway. :)

I see the light now! lol gotta love highway pulls

Anyone want to trade their .86 housing for a .64??


I know some of you would rather have the extra responce, but my particular set-up won't allow me to run the .64....so the oppertunity is open to anyone that has wanted to switch.

PM me if interested

My turbo is mint , was on the car for 1 day =)

Went to the dyno today....and all night. Car could not put down more than 277whp. I was at 14psi. My A/F was reading 14.8!!! I have Apexi N1 duals so we disconnected it and stuck the sniffer in the cat(straight pipe) still read 14.8. Change sensors on the sniffer and stil 14.8. clearly sniffer is broken, but Im still pissed. 277 at 14psi rich or not sucks johnson. It was a dyno jet.

Mod list:
2871r .86
272 in/ex cams
TI Retainers/Springs
PE Metal HG
Spec Stg 3
Enthalpy
Z32
Megan Manifold
Megan FPR
SAFC II
Greddy Profec B
740cc Deatchwerks
Z32 fuel filtr
walboro 255lph
Apexi N1 Duals
NGK step 7
Still internally gated (yeah I know)
etc.

Something is definitely wrong. Fuel pressure is at 44-45, boost 14.
Seems not to be able to go any higher for some reason?? Someone please shed some light...

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...EWON/010-4.jpg

How the fuck did you only put down what T28s would put down? Check engine health yet? Compression, boost leak? I put down 320 with a boost leak at 14 psi on a smaller trim. But damn 14.8 AF?!?! If thats true, im surprised your rods not knocking yet...or worst, your engine making extra oil drains on the block.

Yeah this is retarded. I know its not 14.8 because there was a huge black spot right behind my exhaust and the whole bumper was black with soot. It seems more like 10.0!! I dont understand the numbers either. Its impossible. I know butt dyno's arent acurate but it does not feel like 277, even so... I dont know. Anyone want an S14, im bout to be done. I got street tuned earlier today and it was 12.0 all the way across so I know the sniffer is bad, but I cant stop trippin over these numbers!!!

Compression check and check for boost leak, make sure its not the engine. I was running basically the same setup up you got, just smaller trim with Enthalpy rom tune w/ safcII.

dude not to be a dick or anything but just trying to help out. my buddy made 343 blacktop bone stock, no cams, no headgasket, AEM EMS , greddy intake manifold gt2871r .64 hks wastegate internal gate. greddy front mount, tanabe exhaust. tomei 555 injectors. Literally everything else is STOCK.

my new setup is upgraded to the .86 i hope i wont be disappointed. Enthalpy tune. greddy intake, external gate, sard 850 injectors, JWT C1 cams, valve springs, retainers. built bottom end, mahle pistons, all ARP hardware 8.5/1 compression, 87 bore.. greddy front mount blah blah blah..so ive been told be a few knowledgable guys, CodyAce for example i should clear way into the 400 mark 420ish hopefully. idk man i would double check everything jus dont get over exhausted about it and give up. my car should be running by the end of this month id be corious to talk to you anyways about ur setup vs. mine. shot me a P/M or email [email protected] AIM J20accord00

-Evan

I suggest you buy a Wideband for your personal use. Im hoping the dyno wideband was broke because 14.8 AFR is motor blowing lean. And yea you should be putting down over 300whp @ 14psi. I know i did with a slipping clutch. You may want to think of a retune if the new wideband reads really lean too.

Lol. You arent being a dick. I have seen the same thing. Ive seen T25's make more power than this!!! Seen T28's close to 350. Not only is the sniff box broken, but the Dyno has to be messed up too.

Not the most scientific comparison but I raced R33GTS-T three times. I was only on my Enthalpy tune, NO SAFC, NO cams, and only 10psi. We were DEAD even. He has a RB25DET that made 301 whp. So how with 5 more psi and a tune do I make 277? Or am I crazy. Im gonna see if I can get the charts on here...

Did a wide band tune earlier yesterday. 12.0, making sure again today. I want to see another car on that dyno. I think the brakes were on.

lol yeah it was late and i kinda felt that maybe you would have taken me the wrong way lol but anyways man..i really wanna see what kinda power ur car is suppose to put down with them kinda mods. we seem to have a few things in common (setup wise) and like i said i should be done by the end of this month. so im looking foward as well. anyways. u should try to find a new place with a better dyno. i got this place that jus got put up its like literally 2-3 mins from my house but its also a mustang dyno but whatever. keep in touch man talk to you later

-Evan

what dyno?

A lot of people shoot themselves when they get on a brake eddy dyno for the first time...

like mustang/dynodynamics.

Dyno Jet, and they read high supposedly.