KA-T SAFC II Settings
 

So, I'm pretty new to the KA-T world... To make a long story short, I blew my first KA when I went turbo, tunes it with the SAFC II but didn't have a 24/7 wide band going. Tune slipped.. BOOM! So, replaced the KA and went 5spd all in one shot. So, over the passed few months I've had to consistently take more and more fuel out of the tune and not sure what could be causing it.

Current Setup:

Garrett T3/t04 57 trim. .48 a/r
SR 370cc injectors
Walboro Fuel Pump
Stock MAF
Auto ECU

I started at about -30% while cruising, not in boost, and have since had to almost max out the SAFC current settings are -32% at idle, and -48% at lo-thrl... Is this normal? What could be the culprit? I feel like I shouldn't have to be taking out soo much fuel...

Get a real tune and throw that thing in the trash where it belongs. You're going to end up blowing another bottom-end.

The SAFC II? Appreciate the help... Suggestions?

Enthalpy, JWT, nismotronic

Thanks, but there seems to be a greater issue, than just the shitty SAFC causing me to need to pull out so much fuel, just replaced plugs yesterday...

You should read up some more on KA-T before you blow another motor. SAFC really won't help you much for a T3/T4 on stock tune. Look into ROM tunes such as RS Enthalpy. Don't be cheap on the tune, it costs nearly the same as a SAFC and is specific to you're setup. The SAFC just adjusts the signal from the MAF and has no timing adjustment.

I created this thread for a similar setup here: #/f/showthread.php?t=572741

I would read through that and send Martin at RS Enthalpy an email.

I suppose ignorance is bliss, do yourself a favor and do some research. My suggestion is help, trust me.

here are some settings
http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8089

i would highly recomend getting a air/fuel ratio sensor so you can make adjustments according to your setup. i found different setups online with the safc2 and non of them worked on my setup.

the safc is just a way to get the car started and basicallly driven to a shop to get properly tuned. the thing with the safc is that when you reduce fuel you advance timing which will cause detonation and eventually your bottom end will go.

at the end of the day its your engine, i gave you the information you were looking for plus some extra info. the decision is yours as to what you choose to do with it

Actually it is worse than that. It changes timing for sure, but sometimes it will go up, sometimes it will go down, and all the time it won't be where you want it to be, resulting in a really not smooth power delivery, power loss when timing is pulled, and melted pistons / det when it is advanced.

Does the fact that you're using a stock MAFs not raise any red flags? You don't just "blow a bottom end" driving normally around.

If you don't know what you're doing you shouldn't have gone KA-T.

Further more, asking for other peoples settings on the SAFC is not going to help.

You really need to make sure you've got the dec. air settings etc set correctly.
One does not simply "install SAFC and pull fuel" to make a reliable turbo car.

Fixed. You can get a close tune by sending your specs to JWT or Enthalpy. There is absolutely no reason to have an SAFC in these cars. Ever.

Sure there is, when you're a cheap, ignorant person, trying to bandaid something...

too bad a "cheap band-aide" SAFC is like trying to cauterize a wound you don't have yet.

<<have used Enthalpy / Nistune..

<<also the original author of the "ultimate SAFC guide" on ka-t

sounds like you have a stuck injector, fuel leak, bad maf or something else mechanically / electronically wrong with your setup. something isn't right from our experience on simple 370cc injector setup on a stock KA24De ecu we tend to see ~ -27% at idle and low throttle cruise correction, some setups have seen as much as +13% up top under load. with that turbo you'll max out your injectors real quick. you should save up a little longer and get some Tomei 740CC injectors and a JWT tune or a Nistune ROM Tune.

-Juan