no injector pulse no spark, eccs relay or ecu?
 

Hey guys, I got some wiring questions for you, my blacktop sr20 won't start up, it's been having problems ever since I fried the ecu by leaving a light on all night. When I woke up to start it it would just crank and crank never turn over, so I had a friend check it out and a small connection had fried and it was a connection right before pin #4 (black/red wire) which happens to be the eccs relay input power iirc. So we jumped the gap caused by the short with some wire and she started up. But now that it started, pulling the key out wasn't enough to turn it off. I had to manually stall it to shut it off.

I thought this was funny but I ignored it because of the excitement of the car starting again. Later in the day I was driving it and it blew a fusible link. We replaced the link and it would crank but not turn over. So I figured when the fusible link blew it took something along with it. No big deal so there was no injector pulse and no power to the coils so I started with an ignitor chip off ebay. It didn't work, so then I check pin 38 (black/white) wire which I'm pretty sure sure is the return power from the eccs relay to the ecu to power it. It's getting power so the eccs must not be fried right? So now I'm leaning towards the ecu being toast even though I don't see new burn scars anywhere.

It is an e5 ecu by the way so don't ask me to check for codes
Please help out guys!! Any info regarding eccs relays, egr relays, ecu malfunction or wiring is greatly appreciated
-chazten

I figure it's gotta be something regarding the eccs since it wouldn't shut off when it did run and the eccs power (pin4) shorted when I left the lights on all night. What other fuses could do this to the car that I should check?

Leaving the lights on all night shouldn't short anything out, it would just drain the battery. Check your EGI fuse/relay.

okay well my car ran perfectly one day, i left the lights on all night, and the next day i opened the ecu up because it wasnt starting and it had shorted. That's besides the point anyway because that short was jumped/fixed and the car was working fine until a fusible link blew and took something along with it(ecu,fuse,relay,idk), how exactly do i check a relay? And is the egi relay the other green one to the right of the eccs relay? i have a new one coming from autozone but i dont think thats the problem because im getting power to the ecu, if the eccs relay were fried it wouldnt be powering my ecu via pin 38 right? And correct me if im wrong isnt the egi relay the fuel pump relay? i have my fuel pump hooked directly to 12v source, wouldnt that bypass the egi?

Could my ecu be dead once again and there be no new burns/shorts that are visible? Is visible damage the only way to diagnose a shorted ecu? i dont want to buy one and it not be it, no one around me has an sr either :(

you guys suckkkkkk i know theres some nissan tech out there who can shed some light i want this thing running!

The EGI relay can be tested. Find it and jumper the 12v feed wire to the switched 12v wire and see if it changes anything. If it does, you know you have a bad relay.

should i look up the meanings of the squiggly lines on the relay to figure out which one is the 12v feed and which is the switch?

they look like very relevant markings but i dont know

Which one is feed and which one is the switch? I don't know how to read wiring diagrams yo, are u saying take one of the pins and jump a wire to another pin where the relay would plug in? Which pins?

I don't have any schematics in front of me, but yes, remove relay and jump pins to see if anything changes. You should also check to make sure your EGI relay is getting power.

Find the EGI relay and have someone crank the car while your there. Place your hand or your ear on or next to it and see if you can feel the relay clicking.

Alright I will here in a little bit on my break, do I want to here buzzing? Does that mean it's toast or working?

so i listened and i couldnt hear anything that sounded like buzzing so i figured which pins to jump and that did nothing to help so im guessing its not the probelm. I checked my cas while cranking with a mutlimeter and i know the fsm says it should fluctuate between 0.3 volts and 5.0 volts but mine just rises up to about .8 and doesnt go higher, just floats around .8 until the cranking is stopped then it falls back to .3

Dont know what that means exactly but some insight would be appreciated

Also before the car blew the fusible link it wouldnt shut off by pulling the key out and the lights wouldnt turn off witht the key out =, every post ive read with this happening has lead back to the eccs relay, but i just jumped the relay and it still wont turn over so i dont know where to head now

What pins on the ecu should i be checking to make sure all my grounds are good and necessary power is coming in?

ECU is toast. Point, blank, period.



Now quit making a new post every 2 minutes.

I won't be surprised when I get a new one and it does nothing, then I'll be back to posting every 2 minutes because you were probably too lazy to read through all of my descriptions.

I'm actually one of those douche bags that likes to read...thoroughly. I've read every post contained in this thread.
My ka once had the same exact symptoms. It was the ECU, I knew this because I shorted it out, several times. It finally told me, "fuck you!" Once it wouldn't shut off when I turned it off by the key, I replaced the ECU.

Problem was then solved, along w/ several other problems.

Im back, so i found an ecu on craiglist, the front sticker that says whether it is an e5, 62, or 63 on it got ripped off, the guy knew it came out of his s13 sr20 so i figured as long as its not a notchtop it should be interchangable besides o2 sensors. so i got it and plugged it in and yes! she started up, but only for a moment until it sputtered to a stall after 2-3 seconds. so i started it again but this time gave it gas and it wasnt a clean rev, it was full of break ups and wouldnt rev high, just sputter and i let off at all it would die. So i slept on it and came back today and started it up with the maf unplugged. This time it ran a little smoother, idled smooth but would still sputter under any type of throttle(all of this is at neutral under no load) so i plugged the maf back in and started it and it ran worse like the day before. So i unplugged it, started it, let it idle then i went into the engine bay and plugged in the maf with the car running and it immediately died. what does this mean? is this ecu not compatible? is the maf broken? it never had this problem before, and my previous ecu was e5 and this one has an led in it so i know its not an e5. HELP!!

Also i dont have my o2 sensor plug extended yet so its not plugged in. should i fix that and see if it makes a difference? i figured the o2 wouldnt cause that much sputter. Also its been sitting for a bit, i figure its not bad gas because of everything going on with that pesky maf but you never know

it feels like a fuel problem, smells like one too, i dont have a fuel pressure gauge either. It never had a fuel problem before the ecu swap though so im baffled