love this alarm set up. but is there anyway to fool the system into thinking that the car is set into MTS mode for the remote start, without having to pre set it before getting out?


thanks

I had the same questions and I found the wires thanks to Mr. Broadfield. The alternative red wire is by the trunk. I will take a pic of it and post it.


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So is it only the LE's with the anti-theft module? Mine is an SE.

Does your car have factory security? If not, then it obviously won't have the anti-theft module. The trunk pin wire you can get at the light in the trunk if needed.

You can simply set it for automatic mode. You will still want the e-brake hooked to the black/white neutral safety wire. Keep in mind if you or anyone else leaves it in gear, it's going to drive away even with the e-brake on. You could make a safety device that mounts under your shifter boot. It would have to be a ring suspended by springs around the actual shifter shaft. You then ground the shaft and wire the ring to negative shutdown. So if the shifter touches the ring, aka its's in gear, then it will send ground to the negative shut down wire and not allow the remote start to initiate. You would most likely need to remove the inner shifter boot to do this.

It had an autostart alarm system half installed by the previous owner. I'm thinking it didnt have the factory alarm, but I dont really know.

I'm having zero luck with these last two wires. My SECU only has half the wires installed. I looked up my MID number and it doesnt say anything about factory alarm. So if my SECU has the green/yellow for the alarm disarm output, shouldnt it have the lt. green/red for the arm? Can this be found in smj?

Guys, I appologize about this. I dont think it would be this hard if my car wasnt already hacked up.

You don't need the arm wire for anything. If it doesn't have factory security then it's not going to arm anyway. And since you are installing an aftermarket security system, then arming the factory security is pointless even if it does have it. The arm wire out of the Viper is there because the remote starters share the same platform as the remote starter/security systems. Trust me, you are making it harder than it needs to be. The wiring you are talking about being hacked in your car has no bearing on this install.

Ok man, thanks.

I checked my wiring and everything looks ok. My alarm stop working . Last sound it made was a long chirp then it stopped responding.
My control just shows an x when I press it. I think I killed my alarm control unit .
I haven't had time to check it out because of finals but it's been like that for 2weeks .

Now do you sell the control unit or do they sell the control unit ? Or do I have to buy another alarm?
Please let me know , thanks.

Rafael



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Just disconnected the module and I tried to start my car and it wont start. I connected the module to harness H3 and it started . My antennas light does not turn on and my remote still gives me the error that It can't connect. Does my module work or should I still replace it .


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You could have a bad remote
You could have a remote that simply isn't paired to the brain anymore
You could have a bad brain
You could have a bad antenna or antenna cable

These systems have a limited lifetime warranty. Just take it back to where you got it!?!

I got it from a shop that was closing. Im going to exhaust all possibilities that do not require replacing the module. Then I will just order one from ya and if I fix it . Then I will need some rear speakers for my car , cuz damn my car sounds like mosquitos are buzzing in the back... Lol


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Just wondering about my connections for the power window module. What I am unsure about is the passenger side sub switch. Do I connect before or after the sub switch? Do I need to wire the tilt sensor into the sensor bypass relay? Thanks

530T Window Automation Module Wiring

H1/1 Violet- ground path motor #1 --> chassis ground
H1/2 Green- driver’s side down motor (motor side) --> driver side door blue (motor side)
H1/3 Blue- up, motor (motor side) --> driver side door green (motor side)
H1/4 Red- Constant 12V --> from battery or white at ignition harness
H1/5 Black- chassis ground --> chassis ground
H1/6 Violet/Black- ground path motor #2 --> chassis ground
H1/7 Green/Black- passenger side, down motor #2 --> passenger side door blue or red/white (motor side)?
H1/8 Blue/Black- up, motor #2 passenger side --> passenger side door green or red/black (motor side)?

H2/1 Brown- up, switch #1 (switch side) --> drivers side door green (switch side)
H2/2 White- driver side down switch #1 (switch side) --> drivers side door blue (switch side)
H2/3 Red/White (-) - auxiliary input --> connects to H2/6 white/violet on alarm
H2/4 Orange (-) - ground when armed --> connects to H1/12 orange on main alarm harness
H2/5 Grey- output during activation --> wires to relay to bypass audio, motion and tilt sensors (see relay connections below)
H2/6 Brown/Black- up, switch #2 passenger side (switch side) --> passenger side door green or red/black (switch side)?
H2/7 White/Black- down, switch #2 passenger side (switch side) --> passenger side door blue or red/white (switch side)?

Sensor Bypass Relay

85- H2/5 Grey from 530T
86- 12V (fused) from battery
87- N/A
87A- Red wire from tilt, audio and motion sensor
30- Red wire from alarm

I think I figured out why my alarm does not work. I think I locked my self out of it. I was. Reading that I might need a bitwriter ? What is that?


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I was wondering if I need one of those as well. Here is a description in an add I found. It looks like a universal programer for alarms.

998T Bitwriter And Bitwriter Upgrade Chip Version 2.7 With 998U And 998M

NEED one, absolutely not. That's more for people like me who use it 500 times a year. You would only use it once to program your system. Once you program your system the way you want it, you will most likely never touch it again. Just do it through the programming button and save yourself $100.

Toby, I just got the 5901 from you today. I figured I'll follow the links at the beginning of this thread to get me started but before all that, I got one question. Is there anything I need to watch out for in installing an alarm, when I still have the stock alarm on the car? The alarm is disarmed and works intermittently. I still have the stock OEM remote and I think it barely works. I've had it turn on once and took me a while to turn it off, think I've managed to open the doors with the remote a couple of times but that was it.

I assume this is for an S14? The only thing you want to do is make sure you wire in the factory alarm disarm wire to the Viper. That way if the OEM alarm gets armed for some reason, the Viper will disarm it when you hit the unlock button on the Viper remote.

hey everyone i bought the viper 5901 for my 1996 240sx se and im still confused on the 2 wires from harness h1...the blue wire and the orange wire....where do i hook it up to? i read on here that it hooks to the tilt sensor/backup batt/ etc...but im not sure what color wires these are? if anyone can help that would be great..!

Well, do you have a tilt sensor, battery backup etc.? I need to know exactly which sensors you have. If you don't have any extra sensors then you will only use the blue wire for trunk trigger and the orange for nothing.

no i dont have the tilt sensor or backup battery......what wire is the trunk trigger?

oh and for what i have hooked up so far everything seems to work fine except that it keeps saying my hood is open with its not, and gives me a sensor 2 alert also.....anyone know how to fix this?

Then you won't hook up anything to orange. If you want your alarm to go off if the trunk is opened then you will hook the blue wire up to the trunk trigger wire which is red at the anti-theft module. It will test as negative when you open up the trunk. PLEASE test this wire to verify it is indeed the wire you think it is. If your S14 is not equipped with an anti-theft module, the red wire is located in a harness at the left trunk hinge.

As for the hood false, what do you have the grey Viper wire attached to? If it's not hooked to anything, is the end of it touching something? How often does this happen?

Zone 2 is the on board shock sensor. Is your shock sensor being triggered? How do you know it's zone 2? Are you reading it off the remote when it's actually occurring or are you counting the number of LED flashes on the antenna when you disarm the system? How often does this happen?

pretty much after i start my car...i wired everything up like it should and it seems to be fine now ...but everytime i lock my car i still get that shock sensor 2 error, and my LED light keeps flashing even after i have the car started and key in ignition, could it be because i have a push start button? i counted the flashing LED lights and it flashes 4 at first and then 2 and then repeats.....any fix? oh and also is there a way to program my alarm to auto lock after i have the ignition started?

You definitely do not have everything wired correct if you are having these issues. Your LED should reset(turn off) when you turn the ignition on. So it sounds like the heavy gauge pink Viper wire is not receiving an ignition signal. The reason you are still showing a triggered zone is because the Viper never thinks you turn the ignition on. Does it remote start correctly? As for the locks, you just need to program if for ignition controlled door locks.

ok...so update i relocated the shock sensor and now im good to go on the shock sensor error.....now its just the blinking lights...lol

how do i program that? through the remote fob? and no i dont have the pink wire hooked up...is that why its blinking?

is the pink wire suppose to come from H2 harness or H3 harness?

ok sorry broadfield i read that again....hooked up the THICK pink wire and voila! no more flashing LED light.......thanks a bunch! and i do still get that sensor 2 error on my remote fob but at certain times when im pressing the lock/unlock consistantly.....but yeah still wanna know how to program the ignition lock so my locks automatically lock after i start my car....