Rb20 Boost gauge vac lines? and MBC...
 

Whats the best spot on the rb20 to hook up a mech boost gauge?

some people say t it off the FPR but I head it can cause inaccurate readings.

so I was wondering whats the best place for?

Also I got one of the cheap ass manny boost controllers, you know what i'm talking about lol.
and was wondering how to hook that PROPERLY without screwing shit up and hitting a boost spike.

I found this for the SR20 Generic eBay Manual Boost Controller install on SR20DET : SR20DET Forum (rear-drive)

But wasnt sure If I should use it the same way.

Come on someones got to know.

On the back of the intake manifold, right by the brake booster is where i have mine. I think it's the factory spot for the factory boost gauge. And it's close to the fire wall so you wont have some random ugly hose reaching to the fpr.

aw sweet thanks.

yea back of the manifold passenger side there is a nipple stright off the back where the oem boost gauge hooked up... i have mine here and works perfect

would you knows know how to get the KA cluster fully working with the rb20?

Everything on mine works besides the tach. I bought an I30 tach bc it looked better than the J30. Im not using it though bc I have decided to just keep and send out my sohc tach.

did you do anything special?

I have a DOHC cluster i'm going to be using and I heard the tach will work but it will read alittle higher which i'm cool with. but it also can be adjusted.

my sohc tach didn't work at all. Idk about the dohc, it's still transisted for a 4 banger so I don't think it'll ever be accurate.

yeah, Ive been talkign to a friend about cooling the RB

Should i get a 2 row Rad or a 3 row?

2 row is plenty

The SOHC tach doesn't read the DOHC motors' signal right cause the SOHC is Dizzy and the DOHC is CAS...

I just got a DOHC (any DOHC nissan tach) and put it in the housing in place of the SOHC tach.

If you use the full DOHC cluster in the SOHC wiring, a lot of the lights won't work properly, at least they didn't for me...

Hope that helps

cooling- 2 row rad, a cpl high flow cooling fans and decent coolant and maybe some water wetter and you should be fine, if your doing ALOT of track days look into a oil cooler... my car had the tendency in 90 degree weather to run WAY hot so i had to do alot of cool downs so i couldn't hot lap all the time .

cluster- if your using a DOHC cluster make sure you install a DOHC temp sending unit for the GAUGE not ecu.. the gauge sending unit is the single blade sensor located on the intake manifold at the front. Tach wont work, i never got mine to with all the little trick everybody says should work... i just picked up a modded DOHC from raw brokerage

BBT RB Tachometer Conversion - Nissan 240sx - Raw Brokerage - Your #1 source for RB20 / RB25 / RB26 parts!

tach works perfect now


chris

Its going to be a DD, and I wont be driving it hard that often. but yeah coolant and proper bleeding and i'll check out that water wetter.

As for the tach, the main things I want to work is water temp and tach. so for my temp gauge to work I need a KA DOHC temp sensor on the RB intake correct? I'm putting it in a SOHC car with a DOHC KA cluster. I'll probably go with a after market tach, I also here there are some turbo timers that can read RPMs. So i might go with that for temp fix.

Every USDM 240 had a dizzy, none of them had a CAS like the RB or SR etc etc. only difference is s13 had an external coil. Gauge cluster wiring is slightly different in the zenkis.

I know, but I would still like my KA tach to work somewhat even if it will read higher.

DO NOT 'T' into hose from FPR. why would you want to mess with something that regulates your fuel pressure?

For boost gauge, any nipple on the actual intake manifold will do (not on the throttle body) and for the boost controller, I believe you want it T'ed into the hose that runs between the IM and the wastegate.

hope that helps