awesome story I love people who work with KAs

why in the hell would you run a 10.5 up front on a drift car? gonna rub fucking everything. you’d be totally fine running a 9.5 in the rear too. not like you’re making more power than a sticky 225 could handle. don’t cut up perfect quarters just cuz you bought the wrong sized wheels. you could probably sell those and buy some that actually fit and make a profit.

Prediction: you're not gonna run the 10.5j up front. The steering will feel so heavy and shitty.

Plus you're gonna need some ugly rocket bunny fenders to fit them with those spacers.

Thanks they're not that bad.Maybe, I'll stick to it for now.I'll pass on rocket bunny [emoji23] I'll keep the steering feedback in mind. I wouldn't mind running 17's up front.

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Needed the valve cover breather for a catch can. I lost mine. Zach Farrar had a spare laying around.

I'd be buying more car parts for the hatch, but I'm currently saving money to get into a new house (renting). That's putting me behind, but in the long run it should work out. I'm limited on space for storage, even with a storage unit... It would be better to get rid of my storage unit and have a bigger garage.

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Got a care package from Powered By Max! Ordered Comp coils, spacers, and lug nuts. When I have time this weekend I'll throw the coils on...

I talked with Martin from RS Enthalpy and he said he could tune my NismotronicSA. I've been waiting for a local tuner to get back to me since Thanksgiving but at this point I give up. I'll just wait for Martin to fly in March!

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This morning I had to swing by Harbor Freight to buy a 2 ton low pro jack to replace my dead floor jack. It made it a lot easier to lift my chassis.

I went through and adjusted the coilovers to an ideal height. My driveway is BAD for low car. I was tempted to go more, but my front lip is already scraping like crazy.

I have my front coilovers 8 clicks from soft, and rears 3 clicks from soft. I decided to go with what PBM offers, 10k / 8k springs. While I was setting these up, I realized that this is probably the heights I can set the rears... So drop knuckles will be in the near future [emoji102]

Next up... Drift spares, RS Enthalpy tune, fiberglass, more tires.

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More photos, it's a couple inches lower than before. Not even rubbing at this height. If you're curious, the front tires are 205/40/17.

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+1 more for not cutting up OEM quarters and OEM fenders for fiberglass.

Vlog with the PBM Competition Coilover install, a little longer than I wanted it to be. :2f2f:

I haven't had time to edit this, and I'm also lacking on funds / time to chip away at the hatch this next couple of months... Unexpected change in living situation... Have to throw down and rent a new house... This time with a 2 car garage that I have 100% access too. The new landlord also offered to wire in 220v into the garage when I asked about it! I'm moving in March 1st... I should have money set aside for a tune from Martin.

Made 226whp and 246 lbs of torque on the dyno!

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Ordered stereo brackets, CD tray, ashtray cup holder replacement, Mickey Mouse gauge pods, set of 6.5 speakers, and a Mishimoto radiator.

More wheels should be arriving this week.

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I'm stoked these turned out well. I'm going to vinyl wrap my trim since it's scratched up.

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Hey, a car I actually recognize, enjoyed checking out your build thread bud!

How was Martin with the Nismotronics? Did he seem comfortable with it?

I ended up going with Nathan Shiel out of Marysville since I live close. Martin had some scheduling issues that cause him to delay his Seattle Dyno session. I spoke with Martin, he is familiar with NismotronicSA. I'd recommend him based on my friends that have gone through him.

Hey! 🏁 Lots more to come this winter 😎

Just got a pair of 18x9.5j +20 CR Kiwamis in the mail. Fenders are ordered. I'll get 225/35/18 for these and get 235/40/18 for the 18x10.5j rears.

40mm LCAs and 1/2 inch spacer clears the street and brings the lip out a little over 2 inches.

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Another update I forgot to mention. My motor has hit 1200 miles since the rebuild. I've been mostly daily driving her around town and hitting up the skate parks. I don't commute with her since I work from home.

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Devon VanderVate spotted me at McDonald's the other week! I was heading to Patrick Healds shop to pick up A/C parts they pulled off a hatch. Now I need to figure out the wiring for the A/C!

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I bought a pair of Tarmacs off of Orion Dajnowicz. 18x8j 0 offset. I need to get rid of these burners and find tires that would fit these wheels.

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Doggo is spookered

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Few random photos from Patrick Healds shop. I bought all the A/C lines, compressor, brackets, evap, exchanger, and drier off Jim Heald. They were prepping a NASCAR 240. They threw in a bonus HVAC system and climate control (all the stuff under the dash).

Noah's coupe, he just threw on those AG wheels.

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Devon was working on his daily Kouki.

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Alex's blue coupe is getting a new standalone and some wiring done.

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The tubed coupe is Devon's 240 with Silvia front. New tube front and painted bay.

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And the Zenki is Patrick's daily.

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Decided to wrap the center bezel wince it was so scratched up. Not bad for my first wrap.

Side note: I need to pick up the plastic retainers for my S13's door sills. I bought the OEM S13 door sills that you normally have in the door jams since my shell never got those. The Nissan Parts number is 01553-06161 - they're not cheap. :/

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Going to order tires in the next couple of weeks.

225/35/18 fronts on 18x9.5j
235/40/18 rears on 18x10.5j

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Yesterday I pulled my old driveline to replace it with another used one. After I pulled my old driveline I found out what was vibrating. The U-Joint was rattling, which probably caused the vibration and knocking noise when I came to a slow stop.

I can't believe how big of a difference a balanced driveline would make, but my car feels like a stock daily on the freeway now. Plus I can see through the rear view mirror.

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Friday I was tempted to throw my CR Ultimates on the car when I cross threaded 2 lug studs.*

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I was pissed as hell and told myself fuck it, let's roll these fenders tonight and hope I can get them on for DriftCon. Long story short I didn't anticipate how long it was going to take to roll all 4 fenders, lower, and adjust for clearance.

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I don't have an oil catch can, and this being my first event in a freshly built 1200 mile, freshly tuned KA-T - I didn't want to risk spraying the bay with oil. Pardon my Hoonigan Bonus inspired catch can.

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Tony from LCM Garage mounted my tires Friday evening.

Saturday morning, I woke up at 7am and b-lined it to O'Reillys for the lug studs. I purchased extras just in case. It took me an hour and a half to replace those 2 studs and at 9am I decided pack it up and head to the track.

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I was shooting media for DriftCon Afterdark and driving, it was an incredible feeling to do both and have drivers actually acknowledge "wow the media knows how to drive?" My car hasn't been on track for close to 2 years now.

I'll have to save the DriftCon Afterdark content for another thread, I have a few thousand photos to go through.

Meanwhile Sunday morning rolls around. I'm sore af and running off of 5 hours of sleep. I am determined to fit my wheels on my Schassis.

I was really sad to not have my type 3 fenders and I decided to go for it and roll my fronts. That proved to be pretty difficult. I also didn't like the monster truck stance, so I decided to drop the rear a full inch.*

Images below are before I roll the front fenders and lower the rear.*NOTE: 39.5mm between the preload collars and the ride height collar.

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Rolling the front fenders was a long and painful process. This was the first time I have ever rolled fenders. My driver side was burnt from the rubbing (test run). My passenger side fender turned out great.

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My doggo Dia wanted to help me with the fender roller. As soon as I pull the camera out to take a photo of her, she acts like I'm about to spank her... haha

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As you can see, from my test run the tire rubbed and burnt the edge of the lip. It's unfortunate I couldn't get the driver side fender to look nicer. But atleast it won't rub anymore. The photo above doesn't do it justice.

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Above is a before photo of the passenger side fender.

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Photo above you can see I was able to get the passenger side fender to look decent.

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The photo above is before I lowered the car an inch. Standing back from the car it was pretty gross looking. If you look closely the waves in the rear quarter were actually from a previous incident.

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By the end of the night I had the front fenders pulled and I lowered the rear an inch. I only rub on the passenger side, I may need to hammer deep in the fender well on the hump that forms in the center of the tub.

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Don't mind the reverse rake... The car cannot physically go any lower in the front. I have Type 3 over fenders on order. I'm hoping to receive those later this month.

I am still having rubbing on the driver side rear fender when I hit big bumps. I'll have to hammer out the bump that forms in the inside wheel well. The front wheels rub the tubs at full lock. I will need to do some full lock "testing" and then take my hammer to those spots.

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My car is in an awkward stage right now, but I'm happy I can drive it around and do hood rat shit. I will get 2 more tires ordered for my drift spares.

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How big/many spacers are you running in the front? Those wheels should clear with about 8mm and some camber... and not poke that much.

14.5mm spacer to clear the coilovers. You're right I had 10mm on it but didn't like how close it was so I went 14.5mm.

3 degrees of camber.

It has 40mm extended LCA's.


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One more thing you can usually roll front fenders with a hammer and some patience, they're too flimsy to do it well with a roller.

I recall someone recommended me pulling the fenders off and doing this off the car. I considered it.. I probably would have gotten better results. My driver side fender was more flimsy than the passenger side.