oil
 

ive got a s13 with a ka24de in it. my question is, should i run synthetic or reg. oil in it. its got synthetic in it now. but i dont really beat on it to much. its more of a dd then anything. i know alot of people probably think its a stupid question. but just wanted to know what people think i should do.

run regular oil i tried syn and it leaked everywhere

its got syn in it right now. no leaks. just needs to be changed pretty bad. any weight suggestions?

Use the same stuff you have in it now. It works!

Or are you looking to see which oil is better?

i would but the problem is that i dont know whats in it. i just got the car about a month ago. so all i no is its syn. he said he did a trans flush with royal purple wich leads me to believe the oil is that to but i really have no idea.

Guess it depends on how much you wanna spend. Royal Purple isn't the cheapest, but Walmart now carries it(the oil, nothing else). I think it's like $6 or $7 a quart there. I don't know about where you live, but Redline is hard to find here in Charleston, SC. Everybody's carrying Royal Purple instead.

This means its time for a rebuild, I have an engine with 200k+ miles on it running amsoil, not a drop leaks.

5w30, change it now. Hell go to walmart and pick up a jug of mobil1 5w30, end of thread.

If he flushed with RP, the trans will fail.

If he flushed with RP, the trans will fail.[/quote]


well as far as the trans i wanna flush that and the diff and replace the fluids soon anyway. he dident do anything good as far as the fluids go. why will the trans fail, just wondered.



thanks for the help everyone

Royal purple is pure shit in the trans.

Unless you keep using it.

what should i use then? haha i cant afford a trans right now :P and what about the diif. any suggestions on that?

the royal purple stuff is GL-4/GL-5 rated, if I'm thinking of the same stuff.. I don't see why it would fail, unless he knows something I don't

I use Redline MT-90 (GL-4)

The viscosity is more important than conventional vs. synthetic. Run whatever you want as long as the viscosity is correct.

5w-30 in the winter right. and 10w in summer. or did i confuse the 2?

I assume you didn't use the same weight or your gaskets were shot. Same weight oils are the same thickness no mater what. Just their lubricity is different.

No, that is correct. 5w-30, -20*~80*F. 10w-30, 0*~100+*F

sweet deal. thanks alot everyone. much help:)

I bought my 240 about a year ago with 100k on the motor... it was running rough so I changed to synthetic. I always use castrol in all my cars, and switching to castrol syntec in my sx made a huge difference... its not the cheapest but not the most expensive either.

also adding lucas racing oil stabilizer made it run a lot smoother, I swear that stuff is magic!

actually Do NOT add any additives to your engine oil.....That stuff is no good.

Do a bit of reading on that, it might help you out.

What about Additives?

yea i dont like additives either. All you need is a good quality oil

im runnin castoral syntec in it and its fine now, its dirty as fuck tho... gotta change it again. blahh

Not always. Synthetic oil usually leaks only when you've just recently switched to it, since it's slightly more lightweight than conventional oil it will find the leaks that regular oil won't. All engines leak eventually as seals dry up, it's just more apparent using synthetic.

Why would one oil of the same weight be lighter then another?

Maybe lighter isn't the right word, but neither is thinner. Dammit. I guess I can't word it correctly without it sounding wrong, but synthetic oil acts differently than petroleum based oils, therefore penetrating seals easier.

Hmm... interesting comments and experiments sirs... all I can say, with no discredit to your research and opinions, is that my motor idles and runs a lot smoother WITH the additive... I do notice a SLIGHT increase in oil pressure, however. but nothing serious

Thats in the eye of the beholder. Thats like saying Butt Dynos are more accurate than real dynos. I personally would not run that stuff because of the potential damage it can cause.

All I have ever seen personally is someone switching from cheap oil to a high detergent oil like GTX. Did a great job of cleaning out all the crud from the gaskets. Luckily he was still under warranty and the dealership ate the $850 cost of replacing all the gaskets.

I believe going from a cheap oil to a high detergent "Anti-Sluge" can cause this. I have not seen any good evidence of this ever happening. It's all he said, she said BS. Never seen someone with an actually claim that going to synth killed their seals.

On higher milage engines, sometimes that "crud" is what keeps a motor from having larger leaks. High Detergent oils like GTX or Penzoil Platinum remove that crud allowing more leaks. The way I see it is this. Stick with the OEM specified weights. For a older motor that has been run on conventional then stick with conventional. For a new build with new seals, break in with conventional and afterwards run Synthetic.
I used to run Mobil One but after finding out that it is not a true full synthetic anymore I dont.
If you want to find a good brand then check out some UOA's if you can find them. These tests show longevity, sheer, viscosity, engine wear, and compound changes to the oil itself after being used.
Good oils with good UOA's that I know.
Amsoil
Kendall
Chevron
Penzoil Platinum
Castrol Syntec

ive always used castrol, but this is the only car ive run syntec in, i always used GTX on my sentra and my 300Z tho. cleaned all of em out really good and i havent ever had a problem with castrol at all.

it has to do with the molecular composition of dino oils vs synthetic. synthetic oils have a more consistent and "finer" makeup while the molecules in conventional oil are larger and less consistent in size.

this makes synthetic oil more likely to find its way into smaller spaces through seals and cause leaks.

thats the best i can explain it

ive NEVER experienced this problem switching from conventional to synthetic though, nor have i witnessed it. its just the "theory"

^^^well would this theory prove to be tru in a turbo car as well. synthetic may leak through the turbo to burn up in the motor and cause white smoke. and if so if i switch to conventional then there is no oil burnt?