KA vs SR- with a twist
 

Aye wasup forums I have a hard question that I need help with. so I have an 89 240sx hatch. It has a dual cam with 180k on it. I bought a "to4e turbo kit" about 6 months ago. I have yet to install it because of lack of time. Now I came across a CL post about an SR20DET for sale. he said he would include engine with a t28 turbo, transmission and harness.He say it has around 75k miles on it. But the SR needs a rebuild and a crankshaft. I also need an ecu for it

My questions is do I stay with my KA build or go SR? I'm looking for about a 300hp~ 400hp goal, over that mark would be fine. the more the marrier lol.
So do I capitalize on the offer?any help would be appreciated

Why the fuck would you wanna buy a swap that needs a rebuild? Unless he's giving it to your for free or close to it, its not worth it.

He selling it for 500, not technically a rebuild, but to put it back together. he sold the crank at msrp. so he took it apart to sell it.

It's not really a gain. A good used crank isn't cheap nor readily available and a BNIB crank isn't cheap. That doesn't include anything extra that needs to be purchased. Save your money, build the KA and swap your parts on to turbo it.

Why not just find a local ka24de for $200 and build that for the turbo kit you bought? That will make more power than the sr20 setup. Just build the ka for boost, unless he's selling the sr for such a cheap price you could part out and make $$ off it. Then just put it towards the ka, wich I doubt he probably wants way too much like any other thing labeled with "240sx" nowdays.

Yea but the turbo kit I have isn't a name brand turbo. It's not a garret or anything. He needed the money so I bought it off him.

And he wants 500

If you're making a thread like this, a reliable 400whp is out of the question. If you want something faster than a stock KA find a running SR, if you're up for a challenge go ahead and turbo your KA but prepare to be replacing/rebuilding your engine at some point. Both engines are fully capable of meeting your goals, but it's going to involve a lot more than throwing on a "t04e turbo kit."

I was under the impression you could use the FWD Sr20 crank. Is this correct, if so, they can be had for pretty cheap.

Keep the $500, sell the to4e kit, save $500 sell ur 180k ka that will blow up with a turbo on it for $300, buy an sr20 for $1600/800. Swap have fun then shoot for 300/400hp.
That amount of power takes $$ and tuning

I don't think so, I know something is different from the two SR engines
. And, no I was only planning on 250 -300. But someone on the 240sx forums with the right setup it could easily bring home good numbers

Why would it blow up if you properly build it and tune it right? I don't think you would blow it up with the right setup

If it's properly built and tuned correctly it will last, but a proper build doesn't involve a no name turbo kit.

Yea but you can always upgrade you turbo, correct ?like the Garrett to4e?

KA-T the reason you see people blow KA's is because they have a shitty tune.

I' have personally seen a 430rwhp ka-t last for over 3 years. it depends how much you get on it.

even built engines get worn down and need rebuilds or end up breaking. but it all comes down to the tune, pay good money and take it to someone who tunes high end cars their more likely to do better work then the shitty "i tune 240SX's" guys.

dont listen to anyone buy the sr, use injectors, maf, turbo, intercooler etc for your ka build, part what you dont need and slap yourself for buying cheap ebay kits.

it's pretty hard to fuck up intercooler pipes/radiator and a intercooler.

I run ebay parts and i am roughly pushing 300rwhp and 280rwtq for over 1 year and 6 months RELIABLY if i have broke anything it was always transmission/diff/axle related. the only ebay parts on my build are emusa wastegate (TiAL valve and diaphragm) ebay intercooler pipes ebay hks bov with legit HKS internals and hks springs, holset HX35. all this is just 10psi of boost.

i would buy ebay kits all day long i would not buy turbos, pistons or anything that requires a balance or rotation or movement off ebay, fuel rails are not a big deal either. so shove the ebay garbage up your ass.

go KA-t you'll spend less money with more power then the SR. cost of motor and mod for mod.

you're pretty ignorant. :spank:

Go ahead and elaborate... Please I'm sure your gona tell me how awesome it'll be to slap an knockoff turbo kit on a 180k Ka without a rebuild and make 300-400whp.
Then again I know your Anti Sr20 soo let's here it

Ohhh FYI s12drifto
EBAY, DOES NOT! MAKE! car parts. They're not a parts manufacturer, nor do they sub out to china and have replica stuff made to sell. Your "emusa" crap was not made by "Ebay" I had a bov from them was an enormous pile of crap worked for 3 mins my Greddy RS was worth the $$$.

I'd say stick the KA. if your 180k ka blows then go buy another one for $150. Or take that $500 and buy a donor ka and build it. easy as that. Im telling you you'll come out better in the end than you would buying a junk sr with unknown problems and headaches.

ok seriously? e bay? maybe an intercooler but thats really it. IMO i would keep the ka and turbo it. start of small like using the sr injectors, piping, smic and t25 setup. if the sr has all those parts that the guy is selling id buy it because eventually youll be buying turbo part anyway. then part out the rest of the sr for funds for your build. eventually in time i would start building my motor the RIGHT WAY and give it a proper rebuild with the funds used by selling parts... ex. replacing gaskets,uprgrading turbos, giving a proper tune, fluid changes and replacing worn hoses/ belts. people give the KA a shit name because there are so many out there that just strap a huge turbo on the motor call it a day and blow the motor to kingdom come in a week...
dont get me wrong though, the sr is a great engine but if i were to buy one to use id make sure it was complete or from a shop that get clips so you can inspect it and basically get all that you need. besides its fun to buy sr front clips! sometimes they come with cool goodies! like digi climate control and tuned motors!:naughtyd: so if youre going to buy an sr.. save up and do it the right way. or get it from a person you trust.

Ka is a great motor seen a couple hold good and respond well. Also seen em pop shortly after turbo'd I'll agree it needs to be tuned right but most kids just jump on an enthapy tune and safc and expect it to be perfect.
Honestly a legit tuning program or even a ms3 will cost some money. The sr is setup good from factory (just get rocker stoppers) and less prone too exploding With boost up vs ka.
Either way the Ka is as easy as walking Into a junkyard and picking up for peanuts.

I had a HKS bov that broke the housing broke, it was a 70's hks. i bought a Ebay blow off hks valve and gutted it and used the spring and dia from the working unit. it works flawlessly thanks.

my Emusa wastegate it rebuilt using a Tial valve and Tial diaphragm. my turbo is a HX35 i bought from a dodge cummins forum.

the only thing ebay on my car is a oil catch can and intercooler couplings t-bolt clamps and pipes and radiator. if you think shiney pipes look cool your right, it's not about looking cool it's about function, i could give 3 asses if my engine looks like it came from a swap in texas as long as it has proper compression it was well maintained and functions the way it's suppose to nothing else matters.

i pull a hefty 27mpg highway and 17 city, ON a base tune. and should the wastegate break i have a pop off valve for over boost protection, don't need it but it's a nice feature to have.

a well maintained 180k motor is much more reliable then a motor thats been beat to shit neglected with unknown history with only 30k miles. do you know the history of that SR20 you're getting? most likely no. :spank:3

I've seen NA2T vg30ET's WITH 9.1 comp hold 510rwhp and 480rwtq so shove the ka shit up your ass. nissan makes their pistons out of the same material, the KA is a much better option for him, it's a legit motor, it was not made as a cheap alternative to replace an expensive engine *cough cough SR20 replaced the CA18DET because they were getting expensive. cough*

if you buy a SR20 your buying a hand grenade UNLESS you rebuild it completely. you have no idea the history of it, the seals are old the o-rings are old probably could use replacing and if it's your daily it's not a practical swap. if you just throw it in you run the risk of blowing it from unknown history, or it could be the most reliable motor you ever bought. it's hit or miss with used engines.

the same applies to a KA motor unless youre the OG owner.. and the KA motor tends to have many more miles on her than its sr sister..

Just shut up man... You honestly have no clue what your talking about. ANY motor from Japan is an unknown because you don't know wtf its been through. I bought my S14 swap an it ran flawlessly for 2yrs as my daily motor and weekend war machine. I put 25k miles on it, hundreds of WOT pulls and drag passes and it never skipped a beat. So GTFO of here with that rebuild it right away bullshit.

my only argument here is that eventually with ANY MOTOR it is wise to do fluid changes, gasket/ seal replacements, and a tune up. but there are plenty of people who have gotten sr's and beaten the crap out of them with no flaws.. honestly though stay KA and run that bish till it takes a crap on you. then go sr. why waste a good motor??

I replaced all my seals, timing components(as required to keep my 90day warranty by the importer) and a headgasket with ARPs because I was already in there. Thousands of people have swapped the motor and done nothing more. They are a very stout motor and because of his hate towards the SR he spits uneducated bullshit about it.

A factory 180k KA will not last long when you slap a large turbo on it. Can they handle power? Yes. Do they melt pistons just like an SR when run lean or the tune is off, all day long.

so you're saying it blew in 2 years time?

I always rebuild/replace seals on any engine that is used i receive and always use Nissan seals and o-rings regardless if it's a year old or a 40 year old engine with 1,000 miles. seals get old and brittle with age and they leak.

25k miles is petty shit when you get to 60 or 50k on that engine let me know. i find it amusing you people like such an inferior engine design. whatever you're preference.

The KA is a better engine in all aspects.