No dummy lights, and engine takes a long time to start
 

Ok im back with a few more questions. For whatever reason my dummy lights dont work. pretty sure i have all the bulbs in my cluster, and all the fuses are good. Any ideas on this?

Now my rb20det swap has been an uphill battle since i started. Anyways, from cold i have to hold the key to start for a long time to get it to start, it will turn over and turn over and turn over then try and start and i have to keep holding it. From warm its the same thing. Checked for vacuum leaks and didnt find anything. Once I got it running everything evens out and it will hold an idle, just takes forever to get started each time. Very similiar to this if i give it gas https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwXM2xR0IcY Any ideas?

Thanks,
Dakota

Heres a few videos of what the problem is
Cold start:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6I9...k5nibQ&index=2
Hot start
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FnGq...5S2OSvvbk5nibQ

I ended up just doing a bunch of stuff to get mine to start right. I took the coil packs out and put liquid electrical tape on them, put a new iacv in it, wired orange cold start wire to relay, upgraded the ignitor chip, changed fuel filter, changed o2 sensor, bunch of stuff. Check and see if your oil smells like fuel, could be stuck injector?

Oil smells like oil, stuff is brand new. I did accidentally left my cts sensor unplugged and it fired right up, plugged it back in then it struggled. I also noticed when i wiggled my throttle switch plug the one with two wires idle would change. Does this point at my coolant temp sensor?

The coolant temp sensor reads a little off could that effect start up? Or unplugging it and it starting right up? THat means its adding more fuel correct?

unplug that sensor, car should start like normal, just the temp gauge not working

Yeah i know the gauge cluster guage doesnt really do much of anything. Im talking the ecu sensor.

Would a bad coolant sensor cause this?