I actually run the boots + driftwork spacerrrrrr.

They are definitely at the limit though.

That's the word I was looking for. It feels 'Faster' with less ackerman.

Yeehaaa... great! :bigok:

Yes +1

Now where can I find 20k to become a dealer lol.

Can't wait until your able to supply uk properly. I want so many of the psm parts but shipping is killing it for me. I want all the arms and pro coilovers but I need to wait until everything is ready to go together for minimum shipping costs :(


When you first started to R&D the lca you were discussing the different lengths required for differing amounts of rc correction. Did you scrap that plan in favour of re-angling the taper?

I had many probs because I kept the angle the same. Brake rotor clearance issue, run out of outer rose joint movement, needed longer lca ect ect

Yes plenty of "dealer enquiries" for small qty in the UK, but that misses the point, needs to be well stocked to be able to service customers properly and exclusively. No one has manned up so far.

We can still offer different taper rod lengths but the knuckle needs to be cut just to re angle the LCA mount, so lowering it at that time may be the path of least resistance.

Sorry had to quote the pictures.... Just nutted in my pants.... damn.....

How much RC Correction does this FLCA on a stock knuckle give us without affecting ackerman too much? (Mainly grip driving)....

Or is it just plain recommended FLCA with PSM knuckle mod?

Sorry had to ask..

I've noticed some people using different thread pitch rod ends for the godspeed lca mod.

QA1 - MALE ROD END 3/4'' X 3/4''-16RH CM from
QA1 - MALE ROD END 3/4'' X 3/4''-16RH CM [QA1PCMR-12] - $13.06 : East Coast Speed, Performance Racing Parts

M16x2mm chromoly rod ends from DXTM-16: DXTM - Midwest Control Products Corp.

Is it possible to use the ones from eastcoastspeed, or will they not thread in? I would buy the metric ones from midwestcontrol, but they have been out of stock for ages.

Contact Baker Precision
Baker Precision - Buy Racecar parts and supplies online - including Earl's, Speedflow and Aeroquip Hose and Fittings, Aurora, NHBB and FK Rod Ends, Neo Synthetic Oil, Setrab Oil Coolers, Fire Systems, Fuel Cel

I bought m16x2 QA-1 ends for my godspeed flca. MHMR16T.

it effects the ackerman in a bad way if you do any lengthening of the FLCA taper rod without modding the knuckle's LCA mount angle as shown in the diagram / knuckle photo I posted a page back.

im confused, what if you just want perfect geometry for grip/time attack type setup, and you want to have the lowest center of gravity/lowest the car goes.

Knuckles front and rear and your special LCAs = prosper?

You confused me with choise knuckles with roll center or no roll center vs LCAs being setup a special way or not special way

its m16 x 2 from midwest control. I have a pair ready to go i'll sell to you. Its KF bearings though, more expensive.

IF - and that's a fairly large if - I am understanding it correctly, modifying your roll center by largely changing the length of your 'ball joint' (for lack of an easier term) and not correcting the angle it bolts to your LCA -and- not modifying your tie rod pickup angle, then you'll get a shit ton of extra ackerman and your car will handle like poo.

If you do roll center adjustment and change your tie rod pickup angle then you will not gain ackerman (you can completely get rid of it if you want) but you will be limited to how far you can extend your 'ball joint' due to the LCA hitting your brake rotor.

That's where I'm at now...my ackerman is fine, I have lots of angle, but I need more roll center adjustment and I already had to grind down my LCA so it wouldn't hit my brake rotor.

I have two options from here....one is easy and painful and the other is hard and potentially painful. Option one is buy all of PSMs new products...which will mean I replace my whole front suspension aside from my coilovers/brakes/subframe. Option two is fuck around with my current spindles and hope I don't mess them up, lol. Option one is painful because I'll have to spend a lot of money, option two will take more time then option one and ultimately more money if I mess up and have to go back to option one.

If I could drop my spindle mount 1/2 an inch and make enough room to add a 10mm spacer to my 'ball joint' shank I'd be about where I think I need to be.

If I were setting up a car for grip I would drop the Knuckle LCA mount ($150 labor) and I would buy a bumpsteer adjustable tie rod end.(I don't sell them) LCA set up the way it comes out of the box. ($550)

If I were setting up a drift car it would be dropped knuckle w/ super angle knuckle mod, ($450 parts n labor) normal tie rod end ($50), long inner tie rod($75) LCA taper rod setup straight out of the box.($550) Widen LCA for negative camber and caster reduced at the coilover top mount.

That gets you sweet handling, ackerman, contact patch, endless angle and no over centering no bumpsteer.

When you say drop the knuckle LCA mount, do you mean ONLY the LCA mount? or do you mean both the tie rod mounting location AND the LCA mount together?

An example of both being dropped together. Which is what I think you were saying.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...d/DSC00997.jpg

I was not aware you offered the LCA knuckle mount dropping without the angle kit. Can you do it to knuckles that already have a modified tie rod point? I really want your guys whole set up, but I really don't have 1200 bucks to spend right now and I haven't been able to track down any new spindles locally.

Yes, the standard knuckle drop is 25mm, so there is your correction.

Thanks Dan! So I would ship you my S13 Knuckle and whisper the magic words (LCA Drop my Knuckles Please for $150 per side or total?) and give me that slamming LCA for $550...? That would work?

Already got SPL Tie Rods Ends....

P.S. Got your PSM electronics in last week for monitoring.... SICKNESS!!

I meant the LCA mount only but dropping the whole thing works too so that you can run an OEM tie rod end.

I never promoted it since we are focused on drifting, but we can do it.
why is the tie rod point modified?
150 for modding both sides of your knuc for RC plus return shipping. it will work, but with the name "slider" you need the super angle mod. It will change your life.

HAHAHhahaha... I know what you mean.... I might just have to stay true to my name, but the name comes from Top Gun as Iceman's wingman call sign "Slider". hahaha

I have my knuckles modded for angle already, but I did that by shortening the arm and changing the angle on the tie rod pickup.

Dan, on your rc knuckle mod, you dont make the lower mounting hole completely vertical right? What are the benefits of changing the angle of that point (besides addressing the ackerman issue you've already mentioned)?

If you have a knuck modded by someone else it makes my job harder.
Somewhere between stock and vertical.
Also controls some KPI/scrub

Everyone support dan and his products... thats all i gotta say

Oh and dan you still provide the rear knuckle drop alongside rear rc corrected lca correct?

Has anyone ever converted a Z32 rear spindle to have a post-style damper mount so that S14 rear dampers could be used on the lighter Z32 Aluminum spindles?

Unless I am misunderstanding something you wrote, welcome to 2005....

Pics? I'm talking about a stock Aluminum Z32 rear upright with a male stud instead of a through bushing.

You mean a Skyline rear knuckle? Haaha.

<3

The rear is different than the front in that the front RC is changed only at the FLCA mount

however

the rear RC is only changed by moving the hub up or ALL the arms down (aftermarket rear knuck)

or you can help it a little with the sub frame riser

but if you increase the upper arms and lower arm spread with a long taper rod shank I think you will just increase camber gain which is cool for fitting hella flush mega lip stretch tire clearing stock body but not so good for traction and tire wear.

everyone converts the coilover lower mount and leaves the knuckle alone.
http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_fil...0_dsc02404.jpg