^I have a feeling those might be too long with adapters. If axles are too long they'll bind and likely pop the dust cover off getting grease everywhere.

Some good info here regarding axles.
http://www.nissanroadracing.com/show...?t=4746&page=6

Here are some lengths from that thread. I have some R32 GTST axles I can include to this list when I get around to measuring them.

S13 left - 23" compressed, 25" relaxed
S14 left - 23" compressed, 25" relaxed
J30 left - 23-3/8" compressed, 24-1/2" relaxed (early J30)
350Z left - 23-7/8" compressed, 24-3/4" relaxed
Z32NA left - 24-3/8" compressed, 25-1/2" relaxed
Q45 left - 25-1/8" compressed, 26" relaxed (early Q45)

S13 right - 25" compressed, 26-1/2" relaxed
S14 right - 25" compressed, 26-1/2" relaxed
J30 right - 25-1/4" compressed, 26-1/8" relaxed
350Z right - 25-1/2" compressed, 26-3/8" relaxed
Z32NA right - 26" compressed, 26-7/8" relaxed
Q45 right - 27" compressed, 27-7/8" relaxed

Yep that's exactly what happened when I installed them, the axles are too long with the adapter plates. The CV's just came apart the first time I drove it.

The kits I have seen say that you either need to have drop knuckles or next to 0 camber if you want the 350z axles to work properly without exploding.

I tried them with 0 camber tucking rim on 17's, no dice. The Get Nuts stub shafts with 350z axle pattern are the proper way unless you widen the rear track to accommodate the spacer thickness. They actually shorten the stubs so the axles fit properly.

http://www.maverick-motorsports.com/...-axle-adapters

(sigh)

why anyone would run such a shitty product is totally beyond me. shit looks defective and ill-conceived right from the get-go.

if you surpass the limitations of the *all* the oem axles available, then man up and pay driveshaft shop for a proper axle setup. why waste your fucking time with these shitty adapters?

Yeah I made the mistake of buying them back when I posted that and finding out they don't work without a widened rear track width. The measurements they give on that site for required widths were not on there when I got them.


My only issue with driveshaft shop axles, is they are designed off of oem axle measurements, so on a lowered car I can see them having the same issue of stretched boots and overextended cv's no? That is unless you go with the Porshe 930 cv style axles. Basically overextending the cv's or exceeding the articulation that the cv can handle would most likely still cause problems no matter how much horsepower the axles are "rated" to handle.

Yeah, when the time comes I'm going to drive down to their shop and have mine converted.

if you're having axle problems from being excessively lowered, have you considered.... wait for it.... not being so fucking low? its damn near 2016, people still havent figured out how lame it is to have a car that scoops shit up from the road, cant handle, and cant go over speed bumps?

Well, I already raised my car since I had those problems And have been fine on oem axles since then. I was simply stating what I experienced.


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Damn I am running those shitty maverick motorsports adapters. Kept breaking axles in the rear since I am running the pbm drop knuckle and rlca combo. Ran oem axles with gktech axle spacers which did not work. Figured I needed some longer axles and some with the better Rzeppa design so I went with the 350z axles + maverick motorsports adapters. I have not put too many miles on this setup so I can really give much feedback but for the few times I have driven/drifted on them they seemed to hold up okay. Only time will tell I guess.

Blew out a brand new oreilly reman axle with gktech 15mm spacer after 100 miles and some drifting. My ride height + 18x12.5 wheels dont help either..
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/765/21...c56c371f_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/739/21...2799115f_b.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5806/2...65363249_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/715/21...de46dbae_b.jpg

My ride height
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/763/21...337e6c9a_b.jpg

This is a very informative thread. I have learned a lot and like the contributions. Will update once I put more miles on this setup.

+1 to those reman'd axles being crap.

My driver side axle (stock from '91 as far as I could tell) had play in both joints after being low and going to drift events for years. I put in an Autozone/Advance/whatever axle, lasted the 25-mile drive to the drift event and half a lap before completely nuking one of its CV joints.

I switched back to another original Nissan axle from a friend's parts stash and haven't had another issue since. *knocks on wood*

I just want to make it clear because I'm tired of hearing people tell me to get drop knuckles.

Rear drop knuckles do absolutely nothing for axle problems, they only drop the suspension arms to correct geometry. It's physically impossible for the knuckle to have any effect on the location of the axle and hub, which is directly related to the center of the wheel.


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People should be checking how much free play are in the axles while at ride height if you going with wider track, ultra low (gay) or just changing your configuration in general.

Take the outer axle nut off and push axle thru the hub until it bottoms out, thats your free play.. i wouldn't want anymore than an Inch, the more you have beyond that the more likely you will have a failure.

^this x1000

soooooo is anyone running gktech rear knuckles with the maverick adapters and z33 axles? the gktech setup is supposed to have wider track than stock, and that should correct the issue, no?

Orr get GetNuts or Villians z33 axle stub shafts, then you can run z33 axles without increasing track width.


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Or buy my R200 VLSD with 6x1 output shafts. :)

#/f/showthread.php?t=614693

I have a s14 with a late model q45 diff with j30 axles. I have a jz swap. Goal is around 700whp. Is this a good set up?

what kinda of use does the car see?

Well I'm still building it. Mainly a street car.I would like to put some 1/4 times down for sure.
I did buy a set rear z32 wheels to run some bias plys.

@RICK...with a 700whp 2j and drag use you would ideally want the early Q45 3.54 diff swap with axle setup. If I am not mistaken these are 31 spline axles.

31 spline outers, 30 spline inners.

350Zs and GTRs after 93 are 31 spline inners.

Source: Tried to fit my Q45 stubs that I was using in a pre 93 GTR diff into a post 93 style OS Giken diff and it didn't work. Had to machine 350z stubs.

@luckyx2


Thanks guys. Sucks some parts are hard to find.

@ lucky....good info. Never read into the GTR or 350z axles since I have the 3.54 diff swap and have never heard of one breaking.

im running R32 gtr axles in my S14 with an R230, the R230 is only 5/16 of an inch wider than an R200... so im sure r32 gtr axles would work fine with a 6x1 q45 setup

FYI Q45 from what i know is 30 spline.

I have a set of LH Z32TT/LH Q45 axles for 240sx. PM me for more info.

Sent Driveshaft Shop two cheap (~$20/ea) early G50 Q45 axles from a junkyard and had them install their upgraded shafts. Paid them $50/each to do the install with new boots, etc. Worth every penny. For anyone looking to do a 3.54 Q diff though...it really is kind of sluggish through the gears now (with F-body T56). I can see the damn 1/4 line while I'm shifting into 4th. Making 440 wheel N/A (119 mph 1/4) and went 127mph on a progressive 75 shot, but still the wrong gearing (For me). But, yes, cruising on the highway under 2K rpms is not bad. One good thing about them is I suppose it's not hitting the tire as hard so you may get better traction.

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import...r-upgrade-2193

Just to clarify, stock 240sx axles, J30 axles, Z32NA, 350z axles etc are all 29-spline.

The Z32TT / G50 Q45 axles are 32-spline.