Yes that is the stock s15 turbo, i run the same unit on my s14 sr20det.

are you running BOV to atmosphere?

fpr maybe? also could be leaky injector or fuel pump not able to hold pressure...I sometimes have to let mine prime for a bit before starting...

It turns out to have been the IACV.
I've looked all over abs couldn't find a solid answer. If I unplug the IACV, the car runs prefect. Am I able to leave it unplugged until I can purchase another IACV, or is running without it hooked up detrimental to the engine?

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Iacv helps idle...may run rich during startup and be hard to idle...don't think will be that bad I have been looking to eliminate mine for better reliability with less sensors...

I'm posting this here for reference because I've seen a variety of S13 SR20 O2 options mentioned across the internet, but very little hard evidence.

Old stock redtop SR20DET O2 sensor vs. new '86 300ZX turbo O2 sensor (Denso 2343120, ordered from here)

http://i.imgur.com/YFuMrDEl.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/vPOz2z6l.jpg

^ Plugs only look different because the locking tab on my stock plug had broken off long ago.

http://i.imgur.com/15AfVdIl.jpg?1

There's no wire sleeve and the wires are shorter by a few inches, but otherwise the 300ZX sensor seems to be identical. Plugs into my SR20 harness just fine.

Also, I'm sure you could cross-reference that part number to find out what other models it came on. Likely came on the N/A ZX, and probably came on other stuff like Sentras too.

I currently have a 96 maxima o2...just has longer pigtail

Longer pigtail is good is you're swapping and using the oem engine harness.

I'm using the OEM harness. Despite it being a bit shorter than [what I assume to be] the stock O2 pigtail, the Z31 turbo O2 pigtail still reaches just fine.

Sr20det swap/s14 auto
 

Hello! So I'm confused, not so much if its possible but as to what it will take, what extra things need to be done to swap an sr20det and 5speed into a 1995 s14 automatic. ive been looking into it and for the most part its one or the other in topic, I'm just curious to see of its easier to just do the sr 5 speed swap all at once instead of going in and taking the tranny apart if that tranny is going to go away anyways when i do the swap. If i removed the ac lines underneath and installed the clutch, gear boot and area for the shifter, would i need to do anything else, should i just do it all in 1 go? What else is needed that could complicate it?

where do i attach the IVAC hose? before or after the BOV?

You mean IACV?

Anywhere in the charge piping between the turbo and the throttle body. Relative placement to BOV doesn't matter.

Yes IACV. I had a dyslexic moment.

Thank you.

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JDM Parts Request/ Supply
 

I am currently in Japan and am able to supply you with JDM Silvia parts (among many other makes) for a variety of models and years; Am and have been in the automotive industry and scene for many years, shop is based out of Texas; so no need to worry about purely overseas transactions with non US nationals. If you are searching for a part for that one off build that you can't seem to find or are just wanting to build something with JDM parts for the nostalgia, I will be more than willing to help you; feel free to contact me with any questions or needs.

Hey Guys, I have two questions I was hoping you could help with? I tried to search but either missed it or couldn't find it so I apologize in advance

I have a stock S14 kouki sr20det in my S13 coupe with the NA ecu. Why doesn't the ecu have the LED lights? Is it because it's an obdII year?

The other question I have is, it seems to be running really rich you can smell the fuel in the exhaust and it backfires a ton. The guy I got it from has a MAF sensor from a Nissan Pathfinder/QX4 which is a v6 engine. This must be the culprit right?

What's the best substitute maf to run on a stock S14 sr20det? Any input you'd have would be really helpful

So I've recently picked up a rnn14 gtir motor that's in decent shape aside from a spun bearing on the main crank (guessing for a second time unless the own bearings came with 5 oiling holes). Since I'm assuming one of the original owners did the usual drift to death I'm replacing all the main bearings.

I've measured the crank X and Y axis. As well as measured the block with the caps and girdle torqued down with the bearings in and with the bearings out.

My problem is that even with the FSM math it still leaves me in the dark with actually selecting a size. (Probably going ACL or king) as this isn't going to be a high boost/ HP rebuild but will see quite a bit of time in the high end rev range in short spurts.

Anyone know a good place to start? Or just order a set with slightly less oil clearance and hope for the best on a plasti gauge double check? Access to parts up here in Ontario is pretty limited so don't really want to spend a fortune on ordering a bunch of different ones.

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iirc theres a rebuild article that goes over which size to select...seeing if you are still within oem spec ACL standard will usually cover you...if theres more wear you need to verify if you want +1...just throwing them on there will be your best way to spin again...

Anyone have the specs for the 2 starter bolts on an S15 sr20de?

Cheers

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In need of a diagram for S13 SR20DET fuse box connectors, and the KA24DE connectors diagram. S13 SR going into S14. PLEASE HELP!!!!!

SR20det no spark
 

A rocker arm exploded so I replaced the rocker arms, cams and installed rocker arm stoppers. After I had gotten everything put back together and timed correctly my car is getting 0 spark and I can't figure out why. I never unplugged any of the coilpacks so not sure what happened. I do have a apex power fc in the car but I don't think that would have done anything. Not sure what else to do so just looking for some advice on what could be the issue.

U cas plugged in properly, connector is clean and free of debis and wayer

Yes, checked all that before plugging in. let it crank for about 15 seconds with no spark to see if something would happen and I got a loud backfire but there was still no spark

Backfire means there is spark..

Can't backfire without spark. Sounds like the CAS is not timed correctly.