awesome build really want to see this thing running/dynoed

Thanks to inopsey, I got the engine and Hall effect sensor sync'd up. After a few cranks the engine came to life, rev'd and fizzled out. Now it's just fine tuning everything to get it to idle and eventually drive, baby steps...

woot!!!
saskldjf;ajf

Nice, happy to hear it sorted out! I guess you've already ordered a dyno day to get a map? :) hehe

That's what I'm screamin'!

I do not have a day sorted yet. I'd like to get the car idling and driving a bit before I set a date in stone. Just incase any bugs come up that need to be taken care of.

So you already have a map made for your engine?

When I am starting up an engine for the first time with new ecu I make a map so that it runs on low rpm, just setting ignition and fuel circa and set correct trigger settings, then I have to go to my friends garage and he makes a full map for me in his dynapack

anyway: drive it test it map it race it (read with daft punk melodi in mind haha)

Can't wait man!

Gonna give that place you told me about a call sometime today.

Good to see it was only a little wiring problem and not engine problem.

We had a similar problem with fd driver Dave Briggs / sr24vet from mazworx ! The hall sensor had two wire that were inverted in the hall sensor connector ! It was even sealed with shrink wrap so we never though checking it out as it was strait out of mazworx shop !!!

Put a Video of it running ! I need motivation to finish mine ;)

Heck yeah man, can't wait to see this thing tear it up and read about what you think of it.

I've been gone for a bit, and your telling me this thing isn't shredding tire yet!

Great work as per usual man, can't wait to see/hear some video. Shit I want to see this thing for real!

Yes, I have been working with Steve, from Shadowerks on my Base tune. Needless to say, it's been more involved that anticipated.

DUDE! You're tellin' me.

I too heard of the mis-pinning from the factory. I called Mazworx to chat about it. After tearing apart the wiring to make sure all was good at the sensor, it was a problem at the ECU. Oh well...

I ought to be fun, I'm just happy to hear it run after almost 4 years.

Baby steps man. I've been busy with life and other things that have come up. There will definitely be videos of it in action.


So this happened this evening...

http://i627.photobucket.com/albums/t...pse31ded3c.jpg


I've got some investigative work to do on finding out what the tapping/knocking noises are. I'm hoping it's not rod knock and the few revs I've been able to do, do not point towards that. However, this motor did fail on me or rather the head did at the track and I drove it back on 3 cylinders to the pits, so who knows right now. My main guess/hope is that it is in the top end. I also have an oil leak to attend to at the solenoid adapter plate. If it happens to be in the bottom end, 9:1 CP's with some WPC coating and Carrillo rods are going to find their way in.

The next thing to figure out is why it has such a huge lope at idle. Remember, this thing has fuel sipping cams below 5k, and to hear lope such as in the video at idle is unheard of. My best guess, is that the motor is idling on the high lobes and my vac readings support that, -10in/hg, not good on a healthy motor, which I have confirmed 180+ across the board.

This is turning into a never ending pursuit...

if your hearing tapping from the head pop the valve cover abd see if you spit out a shim. doubt it tho but wouldn't hurt to make sure all of them are in.

The knocking could be a lack of oil or the VVL trying to engage. Try disconnecting the VVL solenoids. It almost sounds as if they are constantly on, thus robbing oil from the motor while there is not sufficient oil pressure below 4K rpm or so.

Yeah, I tried that and there was no change. In any event it hasn't been configured in the Haltech to operate the solenoids.

I may have the lines mis matched, but I need to pull the intake manifold to look at the oil leak at the solenoid block as it is. I'll figure it out, it is nice to hear it run though.

^^So does it sound like a Honda??? ;)

Working out the bugs SUCKS after years of building... but a necessary evil I suppose... never fun having to go BCK & tweak stuff that you already spent hrs/days on trying to get it just perfect- only for it to need more attention... Nature of the beast.

What cams? 272?

I would imagine its stock VE cams.

Thought it was stock 2.0 ve cams.

I couldnt exactly tell from the pictures of the harness but do the sensors have shielded wiring?

You know it better than I at this point man. Cams have two different durations and lifts(VVL remember?). High lobes are in the 270 duration range with 10.8mm of lift. I should be idling on the low lobes, which have 240ish duration and 7.8mm of lift.

Yes, stock P11 cams.

Everything that needed shielded wiring has it.

Could be low oil pressure. Do you have an oil pressure gauge? I think I pmed you awhile back inquiring about your setup and I think I remember your using an S14 SR block which has the extra oil port in the front for the chain tensioner for the original S14 SR Head which is obviously not being used with the P11 head. Hopefully this is not the case since I was particularly concern of just relying on the HG itself for sealing purposes than actually tapping or welding it shut. Let us know that you find out and GL!

I do have an oil pressure gauge and it is showing 80psi on cold start and may be that low due to my suspicion of the rockers seeing oil psi. However at idle I'm seeing 20psi or greater once warmed.

I personally don't see that port causing any issues being that it's sealed, but I suppose the future may tell. If it does, ill break out the drill and tap and seal it up.

have you been able to get a timing light on it?

Yes, I have had a timing light on the motor. It's right around the 15* BTDC, it fluctuates a bit from the choppy idle.

I should have the motor back together tomorrow evening so I'm hoping to fire it back up. I found that my solenoids were in the incorrect spots, so I swapped them around and verified all my lines do run to the correct ports. I'm hoping to see a less choppy and smoother idle, then it's back to getting it driveable.

:bigok:
Dyno time soon.

remember if using the factory harmonic ballancer that using the timing marker on the fwd cover will give you the wrong base timing.
timing should be set using the vertical rib on the cover much like the factory rwd setup.

nice build tho.

Any update on this?

I haven't messed with it too much. I purchased a home and have been doing minor renovations to it. We should be moving in within the end of the week and hopefully I'll have the time to dig into it shortly thereafter.

Fair enough man. I may have missed it if you've already said so, but what are you aiming for on power wise with this? Will this be on pump fuel [93-98] or race fuel?

I'm hoping for 500 on 93oct. More with race fuel.

Jesus that's a fair bit for pump then :D. Your head is near factory isn't it?