Looks like I am going to start collecting Koni parts then.

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t...highlight=koni

Has anything changed from this? Also would it be possible to have swift springs instead of eibach?

Nope, that's it.

You can pick whatever spring you want -- when you start talking name-brand springs, though, any of them are fine. Just need to fit on the sleeve (2.5) spring).

You can piece together sleeves and whatnot from coleman racing, or even just use ebay sleeves. QA-1 springs are $37/ea from Summit, too. Ebay sleeves are 2" ID, though, so you'll have to have someone turn out .040" so they fit on the housings. The easiest thing is just to buy the GC kit.

Oh and Vorshlag doesn't sell that radial bearing piece any more, so you can either run torrington bearings, or pick up the radial bearing mount that Fortune Auto sells separately. The bushings you need to buy are different if you go the FA route.

Ok I will try to piece together an updated version of that list and post it later. If i go the FA route what are the bushings I would need?

While I gather the Koni list I figured I'd post my inspiration for my car. I realize that this car probably has a lot of not street friendly parts, but I still admire how it handles on this course.



www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8MLBj-z0eU‎

Edit: Link as I am at work and I cannot see if the box works or not.

I'm sorry, I still don't see the magic in the Koni setup over a well valved off the shelf setup like FEAL. I've seen the shock dynos, they're nothing special. Seems like a big waste of time and hassle buying all the parts and putting them together. This is 2014, we have properly valved off the shelf coils now. Heck, even some MCA Blues at $1600 aren't a crazy lot more, and they're inverted...

I guess I don't see it as a hassle, and I'd rather have independent adjustment.

Fortune and Feal are clearly a step above the rest of the off-the-shelf stuff. It's the easy button and fine for 95% of buyers (myself included, probably -- I'd just prefer to go the koni route and bolting 3 susp parts together doesn't intimidate me).

This man is correct.

I've worked with FEAL for other cars before and Odi really knows his suspension. He pretty much bends over backwards for his $1500 coilovers to make sure the dampeners are exact on each coilover per specs. Fortune Auto does the same.

However, there's a lot of communication involved to get the best out of the suspension. Since I'm local to FEAL, this is would be ideal and work with the shop in person. The reason I mention FORTUNE AUTO is they pretty much do the same and the OP is from the other side of the United States, just a few hours of driving.


Very much true. In my opinion, the Koni route is a better off the shelf put together than FEAL and FORTUNE. The noticed many people who buys them doesn't even ask them how the coilovers work with their total suspension. They just say spring rate.

The Koni yellow route is a lot more flexible if you don't take advantage of FEAL and FORTUNE's services.

Yeah, I still don't agree, but whatevs.

I think the technology and R&D from koni, bilstein (let alone the $$$$ setups: AST, Moton, MCS, etc) trumps what you're getting from a needle-valved $1500 complete coilover setup.

PJ run 750# front springs with 8611s without a revalve -- he didn't have to spend months talking to Koni to make that work.

For the street setup it's overkill but I'd rather just buy in once and not have to worry about it again, esp for not much more money spent.

Sorry, I edited my post too late when you replied. iwas about to say



Very much true. In my opinion, the Koni route is a better off the shelf put together than FEAL and FORTUNE. The noticed many people who buys them doesn't even ask them how the coilovers work with their total suspension. They just say spring rate.

The Koni yellow route is a lot more flexible if you don't take advantage of FEAL and FORTUNE's services.

Yup yup, agreed.

That is why I'm going with Koni. Fortune Auto recommends you rebuild the coils every 2 years at $110 per coil + shipping that would add up. The koni's seem like you buy once and you are done.

I'm sure they have a similar recommendation to maximize performance.

I would disagree with this. I had a Toyota Celica with Koni Yellows and GC coilover sleeves. Koni Yellows doesn't survive driving in california in 25,000 miles. Fortune Auto mentioning rebuild every 2 years isn't far off if a person drives 12,000 miles a year.

If you want shocks that would last, Bilsteins would be the choice.

Agreed on the bilsteins for the sake of longevity.

The 3000gt setup sounds like exactly what you're looking for a street oriented car.

So I got linked these

http://www.ground-control-store.com/...hp/II=837/CA=7

Edit: found a thread on NRR about it
http://nissanroadracing.com/showthre...ground+control

I am now thinking more about this. The Gen 5 coils for Fortune Auto have a recommended rebuild of 60,000 miles. I drive a little over 12K miles a year now so we are talking 5 years. Plus the car will stop being my DD within 3 years. Fortune Auto is an 8 hour trip from me. Well worth it if I could get my car setup to perform good on the street while being comfortable.

Yeah, those are yellows. You can upgrade the fronts to 8610s for $100, I think.

Yeap I was just about to post that


I am going to contact them to see what the rebuild recommendation is on them.

Any update Future?

Ch

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Not yet. I am searching for tires and gathering info to make my final decision on suspension.

s14
Nismo power brace
Front and rear strut bars
Tein Flex Coilovers
suspension technique front and rear swap bars
tein inner tie rods
megan outer tie rods
j30 vlsd
subframe spacers
SSR Professor SP1
Front 17x8.5+12 235/40 BFGoodrich g-force sport tires
Rear 17x9.5+23 255/40 BFGoodrich g-force sport tires

i want to do all poly bushings soon and i do agree tires make the biggest improvement the car is super fun to drive and i just got a new 6 speed put in the car should be up in running in a few days

No poly....

You would use megan for a part that, if it fails, could easily result in your firey death?

Also, poly shouldn't be used on bushings with a substantial amount of movement on more than one axis, they bind - unless, I've read, you grease them rediculously often. ES makes sway bar brackets with zerks, but not for their normal bushings. Unless the rubber is just falling out, the wisdom of the internet seems to be keep poly the hell away from multi-link, but it's probably okay for the front. (it's also not EVEN cheap: for instance, I considered ES for my tension rods, but they're like 37 bucks for a set, at which point it seems to make more sense to just buy better arms anyway (read: better, NOT megan)).

Bummer i just replaced a lot of my bushings with polyurethane ones....Anyway it seems that most zilvians have coilovers on, with that said has anyone corner balanced their car? I plan on doing this soon and did a bit of research seems it runs from $200-400 to get it done. Equal weight distribution sounds like it would work great around the bends.

Ive never had it done but it sounds like something that would help with weight transfer but would not do much to alleviate bad damping.

can anyone confirm?

Corner weighting doesn't fix bad dampening, but it might band aid an overloaded corner. It does help the car transfer weight correctly and helps with transient response to input as the vehicle weight is balanced amongst all 4 wheels.

Be sure to add weight to the drivers' and/or passenger seats (if you carry passengers alot) to simulate yourself in the car when you corner weight AND do alignments. That way when the car is sitting static with you in it , the alignment and corner weight adjustments are correct whilst driving...

Ch

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk