5.0 Swap in S13
 

Hey guys im new to the fourm and new to the 240 world as well. I just got a s13 from a buddy with the sohc ka and im planning to do a ford 5.0 swap. I know it has been done before. What I want to know from the guys that have done the swap before is mainly what rear diff to use and what tricks you learned in the process of doing it to make it go as smoothly as possible. I want to have the swap done in the next 2 months or so in time for the Ocean City Cruise Week. I have a block and mounts that are coming out of a s13 already and a harness and already found a shop to make a driveshaft. I work at a shop that i have access to day and night so time shouldnt be a problem but its going to be on a college student budget.

Awesome swap, and good luck, i have a carbed oneI swapped in my truck and its fun.

Well people run the stock diff welded or clutch type and support crazy high numbers. I know a guy with a ls1 who has no issues with his kaaz. Either try to buy a used clutch type or weld it up.

Stock axles as well?


"If you're not first, you're last"- Ricky Bobby

As of now he is. If you want upgraded ones drive shaft shop has some. There's an axle thread that just started up that has more info than I know (as I'm still on stockers also)

I plan on going turbo eventually so I'll probably just upgrade then


"If you're not first, you're last"- Ricky Bobby

What motor are you running? And what kind of power are you making?


"If you're not first, you're last"- Ricky Bobby

Sr20, roughly 300-320 at the wheels. I welded my diff (not my dd)

How does the welded diff do on the road? I don't plan on this being much of a track car so it needs to have some streetability.


"If you're not first, you're last"- Ricky Bobby

Normal conditions fine. Rain and or snow I leave it parked. Way to much money in it to risk sliding in a ditch imo

yet it had a welded diff lol.
Ive planned a ford modular engine swap, 4.6 more than likely, and was sooo close to start buying parts, but was able to talk myself out of it, too many projects already... Reason for picking this engine swap being how affordable it is and it's an ok motor.
Good luck with your swap, 5.0's are good motors.

Thanks it's gonna be my first build. Hopefully everything goes smoothly *knock on wood*


"If you're not first, you're last"- Ricky Bobby

Hey hey hey. My welded is perfect for what I use it for. I don't risk it when I don't feel comfortable. And I already said I don't need it for daily use so it's perfect for me

Does anyone have recommendations about fuel lines and pump? I plan on going turbo e85 in the future to i would like to have that set up. My boss was thinking AN fittings and bigger lines not sure what size yet but he was thinking we may have to drill out the holes in the sending unit and weld the fittings.


"If you're not first, you're last"- Ricky Bobby

The problem I have with the swap is the fuel economy. How are you going to daily car @ 12MPG?

Go EFI?

Yeah efi defiantly but not daily but not just a weekend car not too worried about fuel economy. Except long drives finding e85 will be a pain


"If you're not first, you're last"- Ricky Bobby

Coyote 5.0, I hope...

Nope I'm a poor college kid. Junkyard build if you will lol maybe one day. I wanted to do a ls1 but my buddy already had the 5.0 block in a s13 with mounts and a harness that just needs bearings so that made up my mind


"If you're not first, you're last"- Ricky Bobby

Do you have a 5.0 swap?


"If you're not first, you're last"- Ricky Bobby

Actually I do have a 5.0 with 86,000 miles from a 1989 Mustang foxbody. Roller motor ready to go. Want to buy it? $450.

what did you do about the sending unit? and i already have a motor to put in just gotta find a trans and intake manifold rails ect..

What sending unit? The fuel level sending unit? The water temperature sending unit? The transmission temperature sending unit?

And... My engine is wrapped up, chained to a longitudinal post where I keep many engines wrapped up. Its not installed in anything. Thus the for sale sticker.

It's been done. It's a straight forward, well documented swap. However most come out like crap because the guys doing it are on a shoe string budget.

You'll also have to have extremely modest power goals. These engines like to come apart under high power applications (read 350whp) and the trans is fairly fragile. I've yet to see if anyone has ever completed a 351 swap, as the block is wider.

But if you are handy, want a cheap project and a V8 gurggle, why not?

Search the Googles.

#/f/showthread.php?t=417618

#/f/showthread.php?t=485744

http://www.silviav8forums.com/forum/...776cde11d7f90d




http://www.streetlegaltv.com/photos/...7/IMG_3401.JPG

http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/...35593972_o.jpg

5.0 motors are big and difficult to fit but can be done and can make big power if built.

For the rear end, the axles are the weak part. Get either DSS level 5 ($1,000) or Mazworx axles ($1,800), which support 500+ rwhp. Neither are cheap, obviously. Rear ends in 240sx are stout, though a KAAZ 1.5 or Nismo LSD is suggested.

Fuel system; depending on your power goals, dual Walbro 255lph pumps, a single Aeromotive 340lph are both solid, low maintenance options. Dual Bosch 044 pumps would be overkill and you would need a quality Aeromotive filer post-pump to remove any materials that come from the brushes in the pump. Aeromotive A1000 is overkill, requires a controller to be done right, is noisy and etc...

Since my last car was a built, supercharged mustang cobra, I can vouch for the fact that they can make strong power.

The fuel sending unit. Will it flow enough if I go turbo e85



"If you're not first, you're last"- Ricky Bobby

^^This, just go LS if you want more cylinders :bow:

$$$$$$

A 302 just about drops in and can be done for under $3k with a rebuild. Any form of LS will need a budget of at least $6k up to $15k.

the T45, TKO500 and other Ford Mustang manual transmissions, before the T56 in the Cobra, Corvette and Viper, are rated at only 350rwhp and do break at that hp level. I know first hand.

The Ford 4.6 and 5.0 liter bottom ends, before 2003 would fragment pistons if pushed past 350rwhp. I can show you pictures from my 4.6 after this happened.

Not sure if serious.

The stock axels are fine. The trick is get some Autozne life time axels for $120 a pop... maybe even buy a spare set for track days. When they go bad... get new ones for free.

Yes, you don't want to do more than 300whp in a stock 302. The block it's self is dead in the 400-500whp range.

If you are looking to ditch a stock KA and have modest power goals, a Mustang swap will do you good. Weld the rear end, get some coil and go burn rubber with that awesome 302 sound.