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doing S13 coupe Writeup Quarter panel replacement
Im doing a Complete Quarter panel replacement on my s13 coupe passenger side.I will be removing and replacing outer body metal,I will not be removing any structural part of frame. Ive searched the vast World wide web and could not find a DIY page anywhere. So I decided to do one. Many people might ask ,Why not just buy another shell? First off ,I just got my car smogged and dont want to swap everything over to new shell , plus I got all donor parts cheap. Went to Pick and pull and took advantage of 50% 0ff sale this past Memorial day weekend. $65 dollars for trunk hood Fuel door and Complete quarter panel.So i guess Im a cheap frugal dood always trying to save a buck.Anyways here is a list of tools Im using:
1. Sawzall with metal cutting blades. 2. safety glasses 3. Gloves (sharp metal ends will mess you up) 4. Utility knife 5. Electric or air powered drill with 1/4 inch bit 6.Die grinder with cut off wheel 7.Pliers 8.Flat head screwdriver 9.sharpy marker 10.Mig Welder 11. Metric socket set and wrachet 12. patience and Huevos. Dont puss out.. 13. hammer 14. Vise grips and C clamps 15. Hydraulic jack I will add to list of tools as I progress. First off Im not a Body and paint tech. So before I tear into my car and start cutting.I Figured Id Drill out all welds on the donor quarterpanel and remove outer panel.This will give me an opportunity to study th framework.I will not be using the structural support part of the donor . My goal is to do the same to my cars shell , as i will be welding the donor QP on it again.Today I just drilled out and separated the QP well almost finished. Here are some pics. http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/382/42972564.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-05-31 this is the crease at bottom of chassis Door if you look closely its where the Qp is welded onto rest of frame carefully follow lines and cut out and drill out welds.http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/3614/imagetfj.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-05-31http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/173/imagemqv.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-05-31 Use you Marker and Dot all spot welds look closely,thing like an engineer you will find them , drill em out be patient.http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/7867/52757962.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-05-31http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/2286/28926223.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-05-31 Gently use screwdriver and pry apart.Ill post more tomorrow ,its late |
The bottom part of door jam has 3 layers of sheet metal, I only need outer body piece.I will have to pay extra attention and not cut into frame when removing QP from my car.http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/7867/52757962.jpg
By nismolvr at 2011-05-31http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/7576/imagebpd.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-05-31inner spot welds on frame door supporthttp://img857.imageshack.us/img857/5585/76860890.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-05-31 |
update
Finally got to work on my car today , Yesterday I finished auto to manual s13 5 speed conversion installation into 95 s14.So i didnt have time to work on my car.Anyhow Today i finished preping outer metal skin from the donor car. I had to cut out a small portion of fender well in order to remove frame section at the bottom of door section.It is the only way to remove the the 3 layer metal section @ bottom . I will have to be extra carefull prepping this section on my car. I do not want to cut into frame .As I will only be removing outer skin.Hopefully keeping the structural frame intact.I will weld this piece back later .
This is the section that has to be removed http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/5200/imageeoj.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-05-31 This is the piece I cut because the frame suppoort piece was welded under it , only way i could remove it.Height lenght 6 inches from bottom , I need to remember this info cause ,i dont want to cut frame .it will clear frame when i go to cut my cars out. http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/6607/imagekyw.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-04 and its out http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9391/imagegdb.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-04 |
Thank you!!
kEEP IT COMING!! |
update
Also removed rear and side glass .Had my homie help me take rear glass out , we used a guitar string.Unfortunatelly I busted side glass. I had cut 80% of rubber silicone and I pried on it , big mistake .No biggie ,Ill get a side glass later.Took my utility knife and cut silicone rubber from glass base area , used a wire brush on a drill to further clean and expose spot welds . I will drill those out also.http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/76/imageusb.jpg
By nismolvr at 2011-06-04 Important ! I removed gas tank !!! I dont want to burn up myself and home . Makes sense sience I will be cutting grinding and welding . http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/4267/imagekny.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-04 Removed tail light , rear bumper and rear center section. http://img807.imageshack.us/img807/6325/imagefgl.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-04 |
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carnage:facepalm: http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/9449/imagecmk.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-04:facepalm: http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/6124/imagemhyb.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-04:facepalm: http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/646/imageth.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-04 |
update
Today , I removed all the remaining factory spot welds and removed my beyond repair QP. First I began with the lower welds under door and continued along inside door jam and last ,inside side glass base .
You have to look closely and Center punch welds and drill em out.Used common sense and Donor QP as guide to find them. http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/5213/imagenq.jpg By null at 2011-06-05 Again Had to be careful and not cut the lines too deep , Im only removing outer skin and dont want to cut lower chassis frame.You can get away separating the line with utility knife, just to be safe. http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/779/imageujv.jpg By null at 2011-06-05 drilled these out http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/1082/imagebcbp.jpg By null at 2011-06-05 This weld here has 3 layers of sheet metal , again I had to be careful and not cut this section all the way across.There is a plate inside here, I had to remove from donor panel. http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/12/imagevihy.jpg By null at 2011-06-05 here is old (above)and replacement QP. The lower (Replacement) has the plate I was mentioning earlier .I had to remove this from replacement as it will be on door / B pillar support. http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/904/imageafyf.jpg By null at 2011-06-05 plate removed http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/9711/imagerge.jpg By null at 2011-06-05 Important: I learned alot from removing donor QP metal skin.It gave me an opportunity to study the internal frame design . Remember that section I had to cut out from fender ? I had to do the same on my car ..Only this time I had to leave lower chassis in tact.I basically took the old piece and used it as a template and traced it inside wheel well.This will hep me from damaging the chassis . http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/7219/imagepen.jpg By null at 2011-06-05 Qick note , Inside wheel well. there is a crease all the way around . This is where internal chassis frame support is welded / located directly on opposite side DO not cut this LINE!!!!! Cut an Inch away toward outside well. I used 3M masking tape .Taped it along seam all the way around and used spray paint .let Dry and removed tape and walla i had a safe guide to cut ,Away and safely from doing damage to frame.This whats left if you do it right, see how i cleared lower frame and wheel well internal support. http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/5192/imagevxx.jpg By null at 2011-06-05 FM aka FNNN Magic http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/2286/imagebmk.jpg By null at 2011-06-05 Removing and cutting tail light / inside trunk section, is just common sense as well. Mocked it up after making some minor adjustments. Tomorrow I will cut C pillar QP to fit and weld. Its overlayed now.I will install trunk lid and align everything before welding anything.Making sure door aligns and closes perfectly. http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/7109/imagedzum.jpg By null at 2011-06-05 |
Good Stuff! Right there! I'm Tuned In! ***Sticky***
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How does everyhing line up??
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It lines up pretty good , Im content so far ,wont know till I install trunk lid and massage it further .
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ZILVIA. How do you get to this site typing it with a Y?
Very nice though. I love to see people who revive the S-chassis, especially the coupes. Love the color as well, I like the factory green, just not the tan/brown interior. Good job, bud. |
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The hell out of that color ,looks similar to British racing green.By the way I switched interior to black , I hadn't finished rear interior . Rockin Silvia everything,tuned sr Engine , Front end , alot of mods .With a/c ! |
update
So Today my main mission was to align door ,C pillar , and trunk hood. So first off I needed to cut C pillar to fit .After brain storming and using my brain a little . I went over to my old QP , took a rool of 3m masking tape and taped over the C pillar section I cut off. I then took my trusted sharpy and traced curves and lines . Then I pulled tape off , placed it over a piece of card board and cut the C pillar tracing. I then took Template and taped it directly over Exact section on Donor QP.
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/2163/imageejd.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 http://img864.imageshack.us/img864/7266/imageuva.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/6521/imageegf.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 Self explanatory http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/6628/imagefju.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 Perfect cut http://img862.imageshack.us/img862/5680/imageenl.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 |
Important Note : It is very important that the C pillar get aligned perfectly First ,otherwise everything else will not. I tried aligning Trunk hood and and Nothing worked untill , I aligned C pillar first , then I used vise grips and even C clamps , even a floor jack to temporary hold Qp in place , After studying All major welding surfaces I noticed it was slightly off.
I took a C clamp and put it on door jamb and tightened it Untill it aligned C pillar Glass sections perfectly. http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/2900/imagerda.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 this allowed me to flush the C pillar perfectly, Like my Poor mans Stright edge?http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/6228/imagekgto.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 Installed tail light also , just making sure everything aligns http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/9734/imagehxn.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 I also adjusted trunk locking mechanism a little , this gives extra adjustment for the hood helps in centering it.http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/6325/imagefgl.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-06http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/9950/imagezhf.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 Everything lined uphttp://img824.imageshack.us/img824/5638/imageitl.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 |
more
This section is located behind trunk hinge, fit perfect again.
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/7070/imageyxv.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 inside trunk vertical section of spot welds by tail light http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/8575/imageprf.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 above view of trunk floor section http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/7636/imagefsh.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/3668/imagenhvf.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-06http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/8384/imagegee.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 So I proceeded to spot weld untill I ran out of wire. http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/8830/imagewti.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 Tacked the rear and primered welds , its late will post more tomorrow. http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/686/imageoyz.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 |
I was too tired to update yesterday, But Today I finished ! First off I ran to home depot and got welding wire. Got home and spot welded C pillar . Welded complete underside wheel well. Preped C pillar surface and added body filler , shaped it and primered it.
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/3421/imagebnt.jpg By null at 2011-06-09 http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/4866/imagexuk.jpg By null at 2011-06-09 http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/3445/imagelpw.jpg By null at 2011-06-09 http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/9646/imagejxs.jpg By null at 2011-06-09 http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/893/imagefuz.jpg By null at 2011-06-09 |
props to you, i would of just gotten another shell.
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Welding the wheel well was hard , Prep work is a must and a dirty job . Use a dust mask and safety glasses . Grinding the Undercoating wass not fun at all. Before welding , I made sure I had a fire extinguisher handy just in case. As most 240sx owner know there is a shit load of Black tar insulation crap all over the Chassis. This stuff is flamable!Be aware that there may be foam inside the C pillar , Please remove anything inside that may cause a fire.
I started welding slowly , I mean like short bursts and pause for a second and continued .I had my welder on lowest settings , you have to be carefull you dont keep burning through. It helps to put a wet damp rag on inside rear passenger compartment QP. ( behind the surface you are welding).It goes slow but it helps , keep in mind to constantly check for fires. Here is the end result, its not my best , but its functional. Sprayed with undercoating to protect . http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/2663/imageaksb.jpg By null at 2011-06-09 |
nice job im pretty sure your now qualified to work at body shop now.
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I used this stuff.
http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/95/imagermk.jpg By null at 2011-06-09 This is the upper corner tail light section inside above th filler hose. not a very good picture , but it shows I had to weld a strip of sheet metal.I later siliconed hard to reach areas and sprayed more undercoating. http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/9289/imagecag.jpg By null at 2011-06-09 This is a patch job inside. http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/2827/imagesqg.jpg By null at 2011-06-09 It aint pretty but its reinforced again http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/469/imagezob.jpg By null at 2011-06-09 After I sanded and primered everything , Looks Fn Great . http://img802.imageshack.us/img802/4297/imageygz.jpg By null at 2011-06-09 http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/2470/imagersw.jpg By null at 2011-06-09 Im so proud of my self. I spent less than 100 dollars on QP and materials! I just adde my will and hard work . I hope this helps some one else , who needs to fix their S13 coupe.Now I just need to install all the glass, and side skirts and rear valance and wing.:w00t: |
Damn. Looks pretty good, I must say. Good work, nice to see someone in NorCal putting some work into the S-chassis.
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WOW great job, so how many hours can you say did it take for you to finish it?
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Almost ready for paint
Today I had a shop install rear glass.Im looking for a rear side glass, anyone in NorCal, 209 area that has one for sale? Anyways, here are some pictures.
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/8885/imagejsp.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-11 http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/4444/imagegzo.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-11 http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/2433/imageirb.jpg By nismolvr at 2011-06-11 |
Damn dude good job that was a good write up.
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I hope the Moderators stickies this .:coolugh:
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wow... this is inspiring man. I always felt that i could do body work on my projects but this write up makes me want to actually get to it!
nice s13 too :) |
This is awesome, it amazing I randomly found this thread and my coupe just got hit on the passenger side quarter panel today
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