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Ca18det FAQ
okay, well we have an SR and a KA sticky post but no CA Post, i just thought that id open this up to anyone intrested in the motor or is in need of info reguarding replacement parts or aftermarket parts support. If anyone has anything to add then thats fine but can you please try and keep discussions out of this post unless you are in a dilema. Please, le'ts try and keep this post up because a lot of members need places like this to resort to on ZILVIA besides the hefty SEARCH button. anyhow ill jott down some info to start it off./
brandon |
*(Credit goes to http://www.ca18det.org )*
If you are looking for parts, tell the autoparts store that you have an 88' Nissan Pulsar NX SE. It will be the correct part 99% of the time! Oxygen Sensor CA18ET 200sx Bosch 13276 $47.99 Spark Plugs CA18ET* 200sx NGK PFR6A-11 $Varies PCV Valve CA18DE Pulsar NX Bosch PCV142 $2.99 Thermostat CA18DE Pulsar NX 491-180 $4.99 Thermo Gasket CA18DE Pulsar NX Felpro 35228 $0.89 Water Pump** CA18DE Pulsar NX B150-1350 $33.99 Upper Rad. Hose KA24DE 240SX L-564 $7.99 Lower Rad. Hose KA24DE 240SX M-563 $7.39 Oil Filter CA18DE Pulsar NX Bosch 3400 $5.49 Alt Belt 4pk855 $9.99 PS Belt 4pk845 $8.99 AC Belt 4pk840 $8.99 * Exhaust side needed ** Includes Gasket Other Spark Plug Options: PFR6/BCPR6's for standard (gap of 1.1mm) PFR7/BCPR7's for lightly modded (gap of 0.8-10mm - see what works for you) BCR8's for high boost applications. (gap 0.6-0.8 dependant on boost level) Oil filter 15208-H8911 Ryco Z386 or Ryco Z145A Door bump rubbers 01658-J7000 (Skyline R31) Exhaust manifold gasket 14036-D4200 (EXA 1.8, S13 CA18) Four separate pieces Intake manifold gasket 14035-D5710 (CA18 all) Injector rail to cylinder head Intake manifold gasket 14035-D5711 (CA18 all) Injector rail to intake runner Intake manifold gasket 14035-53J10 (SR20 all) Turbo inlet flange gasket 14415-75F10 (200SX) or 14415-17M00 (S13 all) The Aust 200SX one fits. Turbo outlet flange gasket 14445-26E00 (S13 all) Engine front oil seal 13042-42L00 (CA18 all) Engine rear oil seal 12279-18V00 (CA18 all) Oil pan seal front 11121-01F10 (CA18 all) Oil pan seal rear 11121-01F15 (CA18 all) Head gasket 11044-51E00 (CA18 all) Head gasket 11044-50F00 (SR20) until 9/92 Head gasket 11044-50F01 (SR20) from 9/92 till 7/93 Head gasket 11044-50F10 (SR20) from7/93 onwards Engine gasket kit 10101-51E25 (CA18D) Engine rebuild gasket kits Engine gasket kit 10101-56E25 (CA18DET) Engine gasket kit 10101-50E25 (SR20DET) Engine gasket kit 10101-51E26 (SR20D) Flywheel Bolts 12315-55M00 $2.18 Valve grind gasket kit 11042-51E25 (CA18 all) Valve grind gasket kit 11042-50F25 (SR20 all) Fan belt 11720-V7301 (CA18 all) L = 855mm Fan belt 11720-52F00 (SR20 all) Compressor belt 11920-V7301 (CA18 all) also suits power steering pump Compressor belt 11920-30R10 (SR20 all) also suits power steering pump Water pump 21010-V5528 (CA18) until 8/90 Water pump 21010-V5529 (CA18) from 8/90 Water pump 21010-52F00 (SR20 all) Thermostat 21200-V0201 (CA18 all) 82.0 C Thermostat 21200-V0206 (CA18 all) 88.0 C Thermostat 21200-53J00 (SR20 all) Radiator cap 21430-01F01 Radiator hose - upper 21501-35F10 (CA18 all) Radiator hose - lower 21503-35F00 (CA18 all) Radiator hose - upper 21501-52F00 (SR20 all) Radiator hose - lower 21503-52F00 (SR20 all) Bonnet bump rubbers (large) 62840-D0100 (Skyline R31) Engine coolant 10120-89904 Castrol Dash switch back lights Nissan Aust, have similar types $11.00 each **** Smith P8130, with fiddling needed or 12v lamps WT2-12 from WES Components, good fit. 65c each Radius rods (Tension rods) 54468-35F20 (S13 all) includes bush Genuine Nissan imports (JSVA), Remanufactured with Urethane (Cars of Saigon ). Wheel nut 62840-21001 (R31 Skyline) Brake pads See service info page. Bendix and others. heater hose w/valve part 02-0036 or p/n ch1649 same as 1988/90 holden commodore 3.8ltr (needs to be cut slightly) Headlight globe Who cares Any brand. H4 60/55W 12V or H4 100/55W 12V the second one has 100Watt high beam. Rear Dampers ( shockers ) See Nissan Dealer or Nismo KONI. Part no. 80-401-081 sports kyb. Approx $315 a pair. Fuel filter 16400-F5100 (CA18 and SR20) RYCO Z202 or Z201 Air Filter 16546-V0100 (same as R31 Skyline) K&N high flow reusable type P/N 33-2031-1 Spark plugs 22401-58S16 (PFR6A11, CA18) Non resistor type NGK BCP6ES11 (11 = gap of 1.1mm) Spark plugs 22401-53J16 (PRF6B, SR20DET) Crank angle sensor 23731-85M10 (CA18 all) Crank angle sensor 23731-50F01 (SR20 all) Coolant temp sensor 25080-89903 (S13 all) Steering Rack Boot (LHS) 48203-10V25 (same as local 300ZX, mabey R32 also) Oil pressure sender unit 25210 89920 (generic nissan??) Oil pressure sender 25240-89920 (S13 all) Cam shaft timing belt 13028-51E25 Cam belt idler bearing 30BD219DWAX Cam belt tenioner bearing. 35BD219DWAX Clutch Master Cylinder rebuild kit. PBR Aust. K8690 (contains pistons). K7689X (rubber components only). Clutch Slave Cylinder 3062069F03 S13 Main Handbook (English) Nissan Publication SM9E-OS13G0 $230 tax ex. RS13 Service Manual, Main Issue (Japanese) Nissan A008009 $143 Tax Ex SR20DET S13 Engine supplement Nissan A008011 $187 Tax Ex SR20DET S13 Wiring supplement Nissan A108012 crank sprocket - 13021-D4200 - $29.26 woodruff key - 00926-51900 - $1.02 crankshaft plate (behind sprocket) - 13022-42L00 - $1.78 Turbo Manifold gaskets -> head: 14036-D4201 (x2) 14036-D4202 (x2) KA24 and CA18 use the same radiators (Unlike the SR) with both ports on the USDM passenger side www.raretrick.com seems to carry quite a few CA products, including SAMCO CA18DET upper and lower radiator hoses as well as turbo hoses. |
Here's another piece of info for the FAQ.
Q: "Hey WTFBBQ I can't find the stock recirc valve!!!1" A: "That's cause your CA18 doesn't HAVE ONE! So go buy one." Hot/cold pipes are not interchangeable between CA18 and SR20 motors. Sidemount on the CA is slightly smaller than the SR one. CA's are also generally older than SR20 motors; it is highly recommended you do some extra work before you swap it in (change ALL gaskets, including the HG if possible, blah blah blah). How far you take it (ex: ripping the whole motor apart) is up to you. |
here are some random parts i ran accross while searching yahoo.
Intake Manifold http://www.ap-boss.com/ - http://www.ap-boss.com/6-6.htm Ca18det Clutches ect. http://www.jgycustoms.com/240sx.htm - http://www.jgycustoms.com/240sx/clutch.htm Greddy Products for ca18det http://www.trust-power.com/02g....html - (forged pisstons) http://www.trust-power.com/02g....html - (Connecting Rods) http://www.trust-power.com/02g....html - (head gastket) http://www.trust-power.com/02g....html Random Parts List for s13/ca18det applications - http://www.aruwa.com/rsturbo/parts.html Bee*R Headgastket's - http://www.bee-r.com/main/parts/engine/gasket.htm Ca18det downpipes, 02' housings (aftermarket) http://www.gbhmotorsport.com/ 02' outlet - http://www.gbhmotorsport.com/page19.html Turbo Mani' - http://www.gbhmotorsport.co.uk/page20.html Random ca18det parts @ http://www.cypherindustries.com.au/ Parts List - http://www.cypherindustries.co...=S13C haha yeah so i was hella bored and thought maybe SOMEONE out there could bennefit from this info, anyway feel free to post if you find parts online anywhee. brandon |
here are some of the different fuel injectors you can use for upgrade out of OEM fitment vehicles;
here is a site http://www.robietherobot.com/storm/f...ectorguide.htm here are the different injectors you can run, RECCOMENDED! 1988 RX-7 195500-1350 Saturated 460cc Purple Top 1988 RX-7 195500-1370 Saturated 550cc Purple Top 1989-91 RX-7 195500-2010 Saturated 460cc Red Top 1989-91 RX-7 195500-2020 Saturated 550cc Purple Top 1993-up RX-7 Twin-Turbo Saturated Primary 550cc Secondary 850cc 1990-'96 300ZX Twin-Turbo Saturated 370cc |
Dont forget the DSM 450cc injectors (blue or black top) when used with CA OEM O-rings.
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yeah, those too, thanks for the contribution man. I swear to you that it is greatly appreciated.
OKAY new contribution concerning ca18det wiring harness made to fit USDM s13's. 1)The wiring harness needs to be modified EXACTLY the same at the sr20det for s13. Follow the same guidlines for harness modifications. if you need any help or info reguarding the matter then im me : AIM d0wn5h1ft : 2) Concerning t he 2nd charcole canister ( you will only have this if you buy a clip) It is located on the driver side (rdh vehicles only) next to the brake master cylindar. -There are 3 vacume lines that follow out of this box and route underneath the intake manifold ( green, blue, and red) -one is for your fuel pressure regulator, one if for your wastgate, the other is for (.....i need to research this because i am not shure) -this cannister IS NOT reccomended for the swap over so just do yourself a favor and eliminate it, route the vacume lines into eachother so it is a cycle of vacume. 3) Wiring harness MAJOR extension points -MAFS and Drop Resistor -Ignitor Chip wires( believe that there are 3) lengthen about 1 or 2 inches. -Re-pin the two plugs next to the battery terminal ( i believe that they are grey and red) 4) reguarding PRE-instalation reccomendations -Head Gastket -Timing belt and Belt Tensioner -Intake manifold gastkets(2) -Exhasut manifold gastket(4) -Manifold to turbo gastket -sr20det O2' extension elbow -sr20det downpipe ( aftermarket or oe) -check oil pan for dents and bang them out if so -thermostat ca18de -resurface flywheel, and purchase new clutch -front and rear maine seal ( check and observe them both) rear is most important. these are the major things i reccomend for replacement BEFORE swap. brandon |
I just found a great place that is located in japan but specialized in shipping out orders to the united states and europe
http://www.takakaira.com/ |
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If you have any other questions feel free to ask them. I've probably already done it with my CA. Joe |
link for those pistons: http://www.trust-power.com/02greddy/...on_nissan.html
link for those rods: http://www.trust-power.com/02greddy/connecting_rod.html link for those headgaskets: http://www.trust-power.com/02greddy/...et_nissan.html |
This really doesn't apply to finding CA parts or anything but it sheds some light on the SR vs. CA debate. Here it be.
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(quote) from midwest240sx.com
"The Technical @#%$: The CA used an iron block unlike the SR which runs an aluminum block but despite that there is not much of an overall weight difference in the two motors. The CA LIKE THE SR has the piston oil squirters and crank stud girdle. The SR uses a 4 runner manifold into a 4 port head, the CA on the other hand runs a 4 runner manifold that splits into 8 entering the head as an 8 runner manifold. The big difference in the two motors is in the valvetrains. The SR20 only has 4 cam lobes per cam not 8 like the CA does. With 8 valves per side on the SR Nissan had to use a rocker arm arrangement to actuate paired valves simultaneously from a single lobe. It's cheaper to implement than the CA's setup but causes valvetrain loss and noise. The CA runs true 8 lobe cams which act directly on top of the valves. Much more effecient, less moving parts, better revs, etc.. That's one of the reasons that the CA is considered to be a more FREE REVVING engine than the SR. The biggest advantage the SR20 has is it is a bigger capacity motor. 2.0L in comparison to the CA's 1.8 ( no replacement for dispacement right?) . The SR20 has a relatively long stroke, it's stroke is longer than the width of it's bore. The stroke to rod length ratio is at a point where the engine still revs well, but it suffers from "excess stroke". This is another reason the the ca is considered to be better reving (smoother not higher), unlike the SR with it's "over-square" design the CA uses a square design (stroke=bore). The SR is capable of handling more power on the stock bottom end. I've heard of 400-450PS being possible with the correct tuning on a stock SR bottom end while 400PS isn't quite feasble with an CA18DET... A big reason again being the difference in displacement. (quote) from midwest240sx.com Those are just PLAIN FACTS, i do not favor the CA over the SR, i'm not here to tell you which is better. we face the facts that the ca is a 1.8L engine w/o as much torque as the sr20det. BUT, it does house more power than the NA ka24de w/mods! and i personally have no problem drifting/touge with my old lightly modified ka. but lets think -ca18de(T) there is a turbo there for a reason, what reason? BOOST reasons. You can get a ca18 for consiterbly cheap. i got mine for 1200 from venus auto because a friend of mine as an account with them. 1200 for ca18 vs 2300 for sr20... thats a 1100 different where i can put MANY MANY mods into the ca18. which is what i have done... not every motor will run like cherry! CA or Sr. they do come from japanese wrecking yards. every importer has their fair share fo sr and ca crappy motor clips so have your heads up and eyes open while choosing yours. Simple tools we use can tell the condition of a motor ie(compression tester, leak down testing, visually checkin the motor yourself) you pick the motor you will be running... so to end the allmighty ca vs sr discussion, buy what you think will suit you, because in the end u will be spending the same ammount of money on either motors! brandon |
Hey guys am new to the forums and would like to say first off that I think that it is awesome that you guys are running this thread! The only other forum that I have been able to locate that has descent info on the CA or people that give a crap about it much less was at NICO forums. So am glad I found a group that has the same interests in the same motor as I do.
I have done extensive research on the motor yet still have plenty to learn! I actually have my CA in my garage right now. I am treating it as a pretty big and experimental project. Have the motor torn all the way down and am going bore the block to a 2.0 ltr here soon. I have found a source that I can get rods and pistons made for my application, which I have found to be much cheaper than Takkakaira. Will be porting the head as well, and installing firmer springs and bronze vlv guides. If anybody is interested in the custom pistons or rods just PM me and I'll put you in touch with the guy. Will post more info later....gotta run. Again great thread guys!! :bigok: |
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some of these links are 404ed up teh ass.
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i'm pretty sure the ca18det ecu is similar to the other nissan ecu's. heres a writeup on finding the diagnostic codes for a sohc, might be similar to the ca18det:
1. Accessing to the ECU The ECU is located to the right of the passenger footwell. You need to remove two fastener of the right doorstep in order to remove the kick panel. To remove the plastic fasteners, unscrew the center part and pull out the other part. Two metal screw and a fastener hold the kick panel. Some kind of pitch is also present. Under the panel you now see the ECU with its connector. Unfortunaly, you have to access to the other side of the ECU. Unscrew the unit and turn it 180 degree on the vertical axis without unpluggin it. You now see the front of the unit. An ajustment screw, a green inspection lamp and a red one are present. The screw is use to adjust the idle speed and to change the diagnostic mode. MARK THE ORIGINAL POSITION OF THIS SCREW. UPON DIAGNOSTIC COMPLETION, RETURN THE SCREW TO THE PREVIOUS POSITION. OTHERWISE, ENGINE IDLE SPEED MAY CHANGE. 2. The ECU modes The electronic control unit have five mode: Mode I- Exhaust gas sensor monitor (Normal mode) Mode II- Mixture ratio feedback control monitor Mode III- Self-diagnostic Mode IV- Switch on/off diagnostic system Mode V- Real-time diagnostics system. The unit automatically return to normal mode I when the ignition is switched off. Only mode III will be studied here. Troubles code are stored on mode III. The stored codes will be lost if the car battery is disconnected or if after selecting mode III, mode IV is selected. 3. Changing to mode III. - Turn the ignition 'ON' - Turn the ECU adjusting screw fully clockwise. The inspection lamps will flash onces, the unit will be in mode I. The inspection lamps will flash twice, the unit will be in mode II. The inspection lamps will flash 3 times, the unit will be in mode III. The unit will continually cycle through the five modes until the screw is turn back. - Turn the screw back after the lamp has flashed 3 times. - You are now in self diagnostic mode III. 4. Reading the trouble codes. The codes are indicated by the number of both red and green lamps. First the red lamp flashes and then the green one. The red lamp correspond to units of ten and the green lamp to units of one. For example, when the red lamp flashes once and the green lamp flashs twice, this signifies the number "12". |
if anyone is interested in using the ka lower harness on the ca, this is actually really easy, and i would do it this way even if i had the ca lower harness.
well, just plug in all the altenator and oil pressure units, as well as the large ring connector for the starter. next, cut up the tape of the lower harness up about a foot or so, this is because the wires need to manuver around the oil filter, some will go above some will go below, just whatever is easiest. now, for the starter, the one plug that is still unplugged,the connector that is flat and sticks out, cut the connector off of your old ka starter, then just plug that in to its apropriate clip, then, with the wire heading out of the clip, that you just cut, crimp on one of the connectors that will fit right on it snug. it is the similiar to a ring style connector but would go around the starter on the ca, youll know what im talking aobut when you see it. lastly, the knock sensor, for this, just take the plugmif you have one,and solder in some shielded wire, you can take the wire out of your old wiring harness, its just a grey wire that goes to your mafs etc that hase extra wire coiled around the inside smaller wire. just sodder it onto the plug or right onto the sensor. a easy way to strip shielded wire is to cut to the first wire at an angle, then peel the shielded part back and just do it like you normally would from there. then, have the know sensor wire go toyour ecu, then find pin number 23, and splice your new know sensor wire into the wire coming out of that pin. that is it. good luck! matt note, if you had a dohc car, the knock sensor will plug right in. the sohc will not plug in becuase there was no knock sensor on the sohc models. |
I love you zilvia. We should make a pdf with all the CA information in it so that way we wont have to waste any of zilvia's space with all the random CA questions. Speaking of questions, I have one involving gauge clusters. I know that when you swap in an sr20 you need a cluster from a 91^ s13 for the tach to work. Is this true with the ca? Or can an sohc cluster be used instead? If it matters I'm driving a '90 coupe. Thanks.
-Alex |
i didnt see this on the page so i figured id post it for those who didnt know as it may be common knowledge
all sr turbines will bolt right onto the stock ca manifold oil lines are compatible (not sure if GTIR lines are)...only mods needed to make it work is you may have to clock the copressor side to clear the exhaust manifold for the outlet also the s14 sr coldpipe from fmic kits fit the ca thats all i can think of as of now CA's OWN |
STOP POSTING BULLSHIT AND QUESTIONS IN THIS *FAQ*
I just spent 20 minutes pruning 30-40 posts from this rediculous thread. I should pink slideways and hachi roku, but that's another 5 minutes I don't want to spend on this thread. I will say: THIS THREAD IS FOR ANSWERS ONLY! Not questions. And definately NOT FOR HOLDING PRIVATE FUCKING CONVERSATIONS! Grow the fuck up. If I have to waste my time and delete unnecessary shit from this thread again, I will pink people, and lock this thread. -Jeff |
for using the sr turbo on the ca18, it works great, just need to clock it with some of the snap ring pliers about 10 degreees. also, sr hot pipe works, just not the cold pipe. i am using the ejuku s13 sr hot pipe for the sr on my smic right now no problems. also dunno if this has been sai ka14de clutch works , just need to remove 1 fly wheel alignment pin with vice grips. also use s13 throw out bearing as well. nismo thermostat for sr has been used as well.its recomneded to drive with out the decorativce coil pack cover on becasue it traps heat and destropy coil packs earlier than they need to be.
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sr s14 colpipe FITS...i have one on my car no mods needed
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not reading that post from him......
anyhow.. i jsut purchased the ssautochrom ca18det package for manifold, 02 dump and catless downpipe, the fitment is great. so if anyone wants pics or has questions on that just get at me on my aim. [email protected] |
yeah i also got that package from ssa, it sounds great (maybe not to good at low revs, but at high revs real nice) i notice a better respond and some more power
ps.: DONT yeah i realy mean DONT use the silencer!!!! when you got the package put it and throw it away |
ssautochrome sr20det redtop FMIC kit works for ca18. here are some pics. got it for 338 shipped
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...19_36_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...19_37_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...19_38_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...19_39_full.jpg |
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New to Zilvia, not new to cars or the CA. Thought you guys would love this if you didnt already know and to put it on the FAQ. A much cheaper alternative for a headgasket.
Cometic Multi-Layer Steel Headgasket for CA18DET Cometic Part # H2207051S Price as of this post $97.30 Available in thicknesses ranging from 0.9mm all the way to 2.0mm. Tell them what thickness when ordering. Enjoy |
How about alternator replacement?
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wrong. ka24de altornator works, and that is what i am using. no need for part number. comes off ka24de 240sx.all plugs match up and i make the top bracket for them to used on ca. if u are intrested the brackets and bolts w/washers from me are 10.00 shipped. dont ask becasue its my design. |
Don't know if it's been posted before, but you can:
- Use a Z32 fuel filter - Use CA18DE Intake Cam for some more torgue Edit: Cheap/Easy upgrade: - You can use the FMIC from a Volvo 740 Turbo, or a Saab 9000 2.4 Turbo instead of the standard WMIC. Oh btw, I Live in the netherlands, and all S13's here come with CA18DET Standard, so if you guys have any questions at all don't hesitate to pm me! I'll browse thru the FAQ tomorrow and if there's anything missing i'll post it here :) |
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i concur.
but some claim +15 when use both intake/exhaust? maybe another myth? |
There's a slight increase of torque when using the ca18de intake cam. Changing the exhaust cam has no use...
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lets talk about common turbo sizes used for moderate power.
A real basic upgrade for the ca18 is the oem sr20det retop turbo. believe it is a ar.64 but some clain ar.80? i highly doubt it is but lets talk facts about this turbo and its potential on the ca serries engines. It has been said that 230'ish wheel hp is achievable with this turbo on ca18 engine on SAFE boost levels(12psi). max on it is 15 so you can see why i stated SAFE. Suporting mods consist of; full exhaust/bolt ons intake fmic and adequate bov boost controller/wastegate also i wanted to get an idea of everyones set up here on this ca18 faq. so state what you are running and what problems you had for instalation, weather using ca parts or sr parts. ALSO, i'm asking if everyone who posts here can provide any dyno results with pics if possible. thanks, brandon |
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S14/15 T28 = .64 A/R turbine housing .60 A/R T04B compressor housing I think 230whp is possible with the SR T25. I'll let you all know when I put my motor in. I'll be using the SR T25 as my "break-in" turbo. My power related mods will be-- CP forged pistons fmic 3" exhaust Z32 MAF 450cc injectors eprom |
You can use a T28BB from a S15...
That with the FMIC, Freeflow exhaust, Cold Air Intake, 1bar boost and a chip gets you 270-280hp here. You can go higher with bigger injectors (Nismo 555's) and a Z32 AFM. Above 300hp it's just a matter of time before your CA18DET breaks... (with stock internals that is). I'm going to be running Saab FMIC, 1bar boost, freeflow exhaust, cold air intake) And i'll be having 230bhp and about 330nM torque. (This with a "Stage 1" chip from a well known mapper in europe). We don't use Power Commanders over here that often, buying a pre-mapped chip is way easier haha ;) |
i never hit the dyno but my set up WAS as follows (oil pump died)
original setup stock turbine @ 12psi stock ex manifold 3" greddy ca dp test pipe apexi n1 dual turbo xs single stage mbc autometer boost gauge ssac fmic w/ custom hot and cold piping s14 greddy cold pipe it died right after new turbo setup ssac manifold, dump pipe, 1piece dp+test pipe s14 bb turbo @ stock boost (felt just as quick as the stock turbine @ 12psi NICE) |
You can run 1bar with that setup dude, no worries
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Not with stock injectors. 370cc injectors hit 95% duty cycle at 240hp @ 15psi @ 43.5psi base pressure. He would need at least some 450cc injectors and possibly more. You need 550cc injectors to fully take advantage of an S14/15 T28. 450's max out at ~275hp @ 15psi and 43.5 base pressure. I would never run my injectors over 90% duty cycle. |
Ah shit yeah, I've just read the website of the guy who mapped the chips again.
He says don't go above 14psi. 17psi is doable with 444cc's... |
nice set'ups guys. Has anyone tried the GTiR pulsar t28 on the ca18? i know its a much larger trim than the s14 models.
but here was my most recent set up. sr. t25g hks 12 psi wastegate ssac manifold ssac 02 dump ssac downpipe ssac FMIC kit greddy type s bov blitz intake stock managment and this will be the up to date setup once i put the engine back together HKS gt2510 turbo hks boost controller mines VX-rom ecu z32 MAF ssac manifold ssac 02 dump ssac downpipe ssac fmic PROF sheep dog BOV Blitz intake ecu was programmed for stock injectors and was rated at 240 wheel hp with supporting mods. once i get 550's im hoping to put near 300. |
i dont know how much my ca18det 180sx make, but i don`t have big problems
to beat my friend`s ford sierra cosworth rwd, the old 3 door one. i`ve no idea how well know`n cosworth is in US, but it`s a 2litre 16valve turbo (without catalysator and 200hp at stock) and tuned to 400-600 hp is no big problem, ive you got the money. like i said i can beat him, with these mods ssac fmic kit ssac engine back exhaust power fc intake misc. suspension upgrade STOCK TURBO (maybe i can $ change to a bigger one this spring) STOCK INJECTORS and other litle things AND YES HIS DAMN COSWORTH IS STOCK!!!!!! :fawkd: |
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GTi-R Turbo's fit, but you need to rotate the intakeflange from what i've heard ;) |
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I've done the T28 from the Pulsar GTiR
Im finishing the process of rebuilding a CA18DET. Some mods i have done. Port Polish
Aluminun Pulleys Flywheel reduced in weight and balanced Manual boost controller - Turbo XS Apexi SAFC II - black edition GTi R T28 Turbo GTiR 440cc Inyectors Exedy Stage II clutch Greddy Type R BOV Front Mounted Intercooler and stainless steel pipes. HKS FCD 3'' Exhaust System 3'' HKS muffler Throtle Body with better capacity (wider) Double Fans supporting th water pump for cooling The main problem it has been placing the new turbo, you have to rotate the position of the original T25 and build a new Downpipe. It is also highly recommended that you seal the exhaust manifold with bronze seal.I havent drive the car yet, its coming out this thursday, and the tests will begin. My only question is, which could be a safe PSI setting for this engine... I mean does someone know how many PSI can a stock CA18DET engine stand? Forgot...sorry for my english Best Regards 04 |
to your question about safe boost levels on a ca18det's bottom end i cannot answer correctly. i have heard 18, i have heard 20. but i will further investigate the truth out of this question for you and post a posotive reply on it, i will also explain why and why not...
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my contributon from what I did. No i'm not a newb I can't log into my old account:doh:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...222/thermo.jpg my ride too http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...2/IM000311.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...2/IM000317.jpg |
Most people here do 17psi on their stock engine, above 300bhp the stock ca18 can break down...
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OK over all is the ca18det cheaper then the sr20det. I am looking into doing one...
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so look into it. nicoclub.com is knawlegable, so is nissansilvia.com. anywhere else you will jsut get the usual SR owner cocky remarks. some are cool enough to hold a decent thread on CA. but nico is your best buy.
any questions y ou have you can always pm me or email me. if anyone has \any questions feel free to call my cell 1 831 917 8640. brandon |
earlier someone posted that you should get rid of the secondary charcole cannister. This can be wired into the engine harness when modifying it to fit. If you get rid of the canister, you will have less low end torque.
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WooP WoOp 831 aKumA DoRi... ....Blackman i got it workin .....i can post on zilvia ......sorry imma ae86 owner zilvia noob .......why is an ae86 owner on zilvia you ask .....cuz dis ae86 gonna be power by ca18det........wEeEeEeEe...
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(flame suit on)
i know the USDM Nissan Pulsar's have a CA18DE in them and some of the negatives about a CA18DET are they are aged and high mileage. Out of curiosity, are the internals the same with the USDM CA18DE motors as the CA18DET? |
A lot of us in Norway drive with these mods:
in addition to the list below i would add an Oil Cooler and rebuild the bottom end... check out: http://www.horsham-developments.co.uk/ The stage 3 chip is designed to optimise the fuelling and ignition for an S13 with the following modifications: Free flow air filter Free flow exhaust 17psi boost pressure Uprated intercooler T28 hybrid turbo Uprated fuel pump 444cc injectors Z32 AFM The chip removes the fuel cut and, in conjunction with the upgrades above, will allow the engine to produce in excess of 300bhp. The stage 3 chip will only work with 444cc injectors and a Z32 (300ZX) air flow meter (AFM). A power graph will be posted shortly. I have had one power run with the chip and achieved 300bhp but this was in extremely high ambient temperature (>40 degrees C!!) - I will be obtaining another power graph with more sensible ambient temps. |
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i just wanted to point out that CA injectors are Peak and Hold (low impedance), not Saturated (high impedance), as stated on page one. when you're looking for RX-7 injectors, its a big deal, because they have both peak and hold and saturated over different model years.
the chart is correct for the years and colors i think though. |
leaving the ca world guys. its been a nice journey. ca has taken and proven to me and also to other thats its not as crazzy as everyone thinks. still available for questions if anyone has any. my ca is going into my crewmates ae86 now
300hp corolla? WHAT?? lmao |
that sucks slideways... i had to leave too... it was good having you knowledge tho, i learned al0t from the info u took the time to put on ca faq board
300hp hachi would be nasty lol |
It's alright boys, mine is going in this weekend... wOOt!
Here she lies-- http://www.escic.com/240sx/rebuilt.jpg |
wow that looks amazing. specs on it?
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I've been looking into these engines for awhile and I'm curious if, when swapping one into an 89-90 240 if you have to make any alterations to the air conditioning lines or any of that like is necessary when putting an sr20 in a zenki s13. Basically, I would like to know: when you drop in the CA, how many alterations need to be done other than the ECU stuff in order to have it working well(with AC, Power steering, etc.)? Thanks
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quick question... i need a CA crank pulley... now, can i get this off a us spec CA18et/20? or does it actually have to be from the ca18det? obviously, my ca won't run w/ out this... and i'm trying to find the quickest way possible to get one... any ideas?
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I am wondering what the normal temperature is for the water and oil, the silvia I bought (CA18DET) has aftermarket gauges but I don't know what the temperature is supose to be...... please someone help me out
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CA18DET problems
Okay, I have been having some problems latly and I would like to hear your thoughts on what it could be...
Ever since the fuel filter was changed my car has been having a problem with holding an idle, at first it wasn't bad but latly my rpm's will drop to 500 or lower rpm everytime i stop and the car has a bad vibration. If I accelerate at an easy pace my rpm's seem to slow and the car feels like its cloged or something around 3000rpm, if I open the throttle all the way(for a brief moment, then ease up) it usually goes away sometimes with a jolt and black smoke. If I accelerate at full throttle the car runs good but sometimes jolts during acceleration with puffs of black smoke then continues like normal. If I shift gears the car bogs(very harsh)then continues to accel. Or if I drive normal and rev higher then 3000rpm then shift theres a puf of black smoke. Also when car idles it sometimes puffs white smoke sometimes I took it into nissan and he did some cleaning throttle body and it seems to have gone away for the most part. The car will idle fine if driven appropriatly but if I drive at full throttle it will drop to 500 or sometimes lower rpm, no vibration that I can feel when it does this though. If I accel. easily I can still see and feel the rpm's slow around 3000rpm, but it is alot better then it was. I can't tell if the smoke is gone cause it was night when I drove it after it was serviced. so yea, thats what's happening.... all insites are welcome and needed thanks! |
IACV"idle air control valve, often gets clogged and will serriously jack up engine performance., TPS "throttle positioning sensor" often misadjusted, tweaked and 100% of the time your engines worst nightmare.
CAS" cam angle sensor" you adjust for timing, a few degrees retard can horribly weaken throttle response and spool up. advancing a few degrees can gain response and spool. spark plugs are also a big WIN in the game of " what the fuck happened" haha so check those adn your coil packs as well. hope i have contributed some help. all of what you have described ive had happen from multiple areas, but same outcome. |
Wow.. very informative thread. BUT, (flame suit on) nobody hsa ever told me wether or not the CA18 has a BOV from the factory, or if it has a recirc. valve? Also, money is very tight for me right now, and the only reason im thinking of a CA swap so soon (without being "one with the motor") is because my KA took a dump on my chest, so i was wondering, since most motorsets i see dont come with the factory intercooler and piping, what is the best way to run intercooler piping for an fmic without relocating the battery? I really dont want to relocate my battery, because my trunk is already full.
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you say that you used the ka tranny, did it line up correctly and, did you use the s13 driveshaft(duh)?
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You do you use the s13 driveshaft. |
what up yall nu to this forum stuff and was looking thru these topics about tha CA but i didnt c any proper "how-to's" on the CA engine swap does anybody know how step by step or should i just take it to tha shop
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Anyone try using a ca18et head gasket??? i cant see why it wouldnt work...
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does anyone know if a pulsar ca18de head will work on a ca18det?
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also, the injectors are peak and hold and the mk3 supra 440cc injectors can be used. the alternator from the ka24e can be used with no modification. and most importantly, the second vacuum canister(not charcoal canister) is VERY necessary. i experienced SERIOUS torque losses up to 4000 rpm as well as noticing that my car RAN LEAN on the low end until i installed the vacuum canister and vacuum switch per the instructions on NICO. this system controls the butterfly valves in the intake, and unless you drastically change your tune(not just chip the ecu), the CA ecu is not going to like not having control of these butterflys. |
umm i was just wondering about the starter, can i use that from the ca18de or another american market nissan
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When money comes to me I'm thinking I want CA18det. But is it true that ca motor blow out belts when driving fast? 2 question is this I want to have a goal to make with ca 280 hp and I was curious which gas do you use for ca motor when boosting? safe boost point on 280whp and whats danger area zone to psi boost? 3 What's the most important gaugues you should have in the ca motors? ex: boost meter , vacuum meter , temp meter , pressure meter etc..
I |
man @ home again. SIGH
I've never in my lifetime heard of ca's breaking belts when boosting or driving fast, it was probly some idiot who decided to do amateur job at rebuilding and forgot to tighen the belt tensioner... If you are doing your own work get a belt tension gauge, it looks like a rod with a gauge on it. one side has a hook which fits arround the belt, just pull and measure, easy task for even beginners. Ca's have no issue pushing 280hp. nor do they have any issue going over 350-400 HP. but dont expect to slap on a huge turbo, boost the shit out of it and achieve that, sr,ka and even RB owners can explain this to you as well so it does not just apply to the ca engines. i wish i would have had my ca still. The parts market has grown soo much in the past 2 years. I use to have to search my ass off just to find an aftermarket manifold. now everyone is making parts and starting to provide for the ca engines. Pick a turbo that will give you what you want and take some time to tune the engine. crower, eagle, cp, arai ect all make components for the ca18. Dont be affraid to also upgrade your OE or atleast replace the OE parts. oil pump, fuel pump, water pump. i'd say a safe zone for the ca18 interms of stock engine w/ supporting mods would be some where arround 250"ISH" wheel \. this is where the stock ca18 injectors are far past their duty cycle and need to be replaces. from there upgrading the maf andinjectos, possible intake plenum and cams with tuning can get you well over 300 wheel. I prety much just followd the sr20det guidlines for power. i did 240 wheel on my ca18 with just fmic, manifold, z maf, hks gt2510 on 15 psi. as far as gauges, it depends on what you plan on monitoring. id go with the following. egt(for upgraded turbos only) boost water temp oil pressure. you can do oil temp if you'd like but most of you now are geting the AUS engines. so they come with oil coolers. no need to monitor oil tempreture. for those whoare still receiving jdm clips a oil cool wont hurt. it will do you some good. watch oil starvation when in higher rpm's that can be a ca's LIFE ENDER. for high boost applications sometimes it comes down to engine condition. contact www.yellowmunsontuning.com about boosting. safe zone for me would be arround 18 psi. hope i was of some help. |
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you can use the ka24de starter. the bottom bracket fits perfect but the top bracket tensioner needs a little modification. just buy one, bolt it on the bottom and build a custom tensioner bracket. easy half hour job. i will post a pic of what i am explaining in a few days. |
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for modifying the battery tray harness, maf, and 02 sensor it is the same. for the dash harnesses. just connect wire color to wire color. grab a PIN tool set at your local auto parts store to do so. super easy task. 1)unpin connector from wire 2)match up wires 3)repin wires color to color. leftover wires are not needed. i never used them and never had any problems with ANYTHING. if you do.. then you have hooked up something wrong. |
I've read that you can use a KA clutch if you swapped a CA into a USD 240 and useed the KA tranny, gotta pull one of the alignment pins. Now I have a silvia with a CA(from factory), can I still use the KA clutch? Mine is slipping so I need a new one.
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Vacuum diagram & conversion Parts
I have 3 vacuum ports plugged Not sure where they go. Can someone post a vacuum Diagram?
also List the parts that can be converted: - altenator - ka alt. fits need to make brackets - Power steering pump - ??????KA24DE??????? - Starter - ??????KA24????? - A/c - KA24E doesnt work at all!! Bearings for pulley are completely different! Have to fab up lines from both the KA and the CA - Oil Pump - ?????RB20,25,26???? - FMIC - SS AutoChrome or a s14 kit - Hot Pipe - s14 SR fits? - Bov - Recirculated 89-94 4g63T (mitsu. eclipse, eagle talon, ply. laser) - turbo - SR T25 direct bolt on? What is which clocking? - throttle cable bracket - 91-94 I Made a custom bracket because my cable was too long. |
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does anyone know a well respected shop that works on ca's in so cal?
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dunno, jspec?
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i dunno if this has been thrown into the mix but
if ur going CA and mostlikly running an aftermarket radiator for example...if u wannna run a KOYO on ur CA run the one for KA..inlet are the same size and on the same sides... not something huge...but its sometimes the lil things that help |
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