I like the info charles gave thanks man and i am sticking with an na/ka and already have an intake, 3" cat-back, test pipe, spark plugs + wires, stage two clutch act, and flywheel i just need the other stuff and is obx a good header i've heard other wise

cant argue that fact eitehr 9 psi made 311 whp and 279 wtq here

You only listed two things that don't transfer over to turbo cars. Why do people even ask for advice when they don't want to listen to it? Save your money and go turbo, or sell your NA parts later for 1/4 of what you paid when your car is still slow and you realize turbo was a better option.

buddy is making 165whp on his ka..

for the amount of work he's put into it.. not sure if it's really worth it.

talked to him today said he probably put 1k into it :|

More info on your setup, please. lol

There's some guys on KA-T.org making 330+whp at 10 psi, but they don't like to give specifics about their specs. :mepoke:

Yeah, not worth it at all. I could EASILY put together a turbo kit good for 200+ whp for about a grand.

N/A is cool... but not for KA's. Too much money and effort for too little payoff.

Oops, double post.

lol roomie just dyno'd 140 whp on a once cam slam (KA24E) w/ a few bolt ons. ZOMG advanced timing, egr and pcv delete, a/c deleted, power steering delete, electric fan, gutted cat and a little grinding of the intake mani at his pops garage.

lol my motor came from one of the member on there. but it had a blown head gasket and i have reworked a few things since then.

enthalpy tune.
msd 6a
msd 8207 blaster coil.
9:5:1 aries pistons
248 91 ka24de cams
D/W 750cc side feed
T3T4 50/.63 ar
38mm tial wg
spearco IC
hks ssq bov
egr delete
z32 mass
apr head studs
3 layers of a cometic hg
comp clutch stage 4 6 puck
oem weight flywheel.
3" exhaust all the way back.
shimmed j30 diff otw (prob. will fail.)

I can tweek a bit more out of it. but you know order parts online and ya have to play the waiting game. :bash:

well the thing is he already has an SR.. believe it or not he drives the KA track car more.
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/2...ginebayoe0.jpg

he did a high compression build on the ka, using sohc pistons to raise the compression.
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/6...ofpartsjp6.jpg
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/939...4302008pz1.jpg

than he made custom ITB's.. mind it's a lot cleaner now this is right after he finished making it.
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/5201/333333ig7.jpg
http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/4369/dynozd5.jpg

I'm still dying to super charge a KA but I haven't seen the results to warrant the money so far.

Boost.. I was thinking of doing NA/KA but that looks like too much money and work. I had the same idea in mind has you do.

I plan to boost my KA but only a bit not too much. Take your time and research. Go to KA-T.org look around.

N/A KA is cool, but your better off spending that money on a turbo kit or a supercharger. If you bought headers already then supercharge the KA.

a supercharger would be cool and different but i cant find a superchager kit am i not looking hard enough and its not that i dont want to boost its just i'm not doing that on this car i can get another one to do that to i want an na/ka because i want to see what i can get outta it.

There isn't really a viable kit for super charging. If you are really interested there is a section for it on KA-T. It seems fairly simple to do if you can do a little fab work.

IMHO if your are looking to go NAKA or SCKA do yourself a favor and find a friend that can fab and weld. you'll be better of in the long run.

Supercharging will require some fab work. Check on KA-T.org they have lots of great information there. If you want to buy a supercharger kit for the KA try talking to Thomas Knight, I remember a while back he made some kits and sold some. He has a website, google him up.

okay so if i were to supercharge the ka i could just use the spot were the old power steering pulley was mounted right and just have a buddy fab a bracket to work off that and would i need to get all of the same shit i would need to get for a turbo setup as well if i'm just gonna run like 7 to 10 psi

Ideally you want the super charger on the intake side but if you run a centrifugal charger you can put it any where.

This is the conventional way;
http://thumb5.webshots.net/t/50/550/...5EiwSBq_th.jpg

With the charger used in this pic I think all you need is the proper size pulley to run it in its optimum range and an intake run to it. Look up nomadtrash, it's from his car.

The KA will make a decent amoutn more than 150-160 with full bolt-ons. A healthy KA with I/E will make 155whp.

With full bolt-ons, it should be around 175whp.

okay so i did some lokking into supercharging the ka and only like three people have it completed i'm thinking i could just use a kit off the infinity G and place it on the exhaust side using the mounting pionts from the powersteering pulley to mount the s/c. and as far as i know at 7 to 10 psi i would be as quick as sti's and evo's wich is pretty good especialy since they wouldn't expect to be passed or for me to stay next to them without seeing a FMIC

I don't think you will be making gains that big but if you do the entire car with that goal in mind it's not an unrealistic goal.

okay so i talked to some people and they've suggested giving it a go and i can't see why not if i was originally looking to get only 200hp two the wheels 230 to 240 to the wheels is better and for less money just more time involed and it would be really cool and different

just so you know. a 3" exhaust is not the best for a na ka. 2.5 is the largest you want to go. 3" actually creates more back pressure than 2.5 because it allows the gases to cool faster which makes them more dense and harder to push out the pipe.

my car= reman kade, injen short ram, stock cat, resonator, 2.5" resonator back=142whp, 151wtq

with the 3" the day before it made 137whp, 148wtq.

now if you go forced induction like everyone here wants you to, then my statement is null and void. good luck.

For what NA KA? For YOUR application, 2.5" did yield better performance gains, but don's jump to conclusions and say a built NA motor should run the same exhaust as your stock motor. On a KA that is even mildly built NA (little bit more than just intake/exhaust), a larger diameter pipe will be more beneficial...

A higher HP motor needs to push that gas out faster. A higher comp motor has more gasses to get out and needs them out faster, especially if valve lift/duration have been modified. Too much back pressure is lack of win and there needs to be a happy balance between flow restriction and velocity. You want the exhaust to exit the combustion chamber and speed along at the highest velocity possible - you want a FAST exhaust flow.

On the NA KA I am building (full rebuild, overbore/high comp pistons, dual exhaust cams, dual valve springs, titanium valves, port/polish head and intake manifold, fuel system upgrades) I'm sure as hell not gonna run a 2.5" inch exhaust when I'm done. I'll be running a custom 3" mandrel bend full exhaust with a custom header as well.

I doubt this guy is gonna be running a 2.5 exhaust any time soon...
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a72...5/P4140038.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a72...drum85/new.jpg

^^^^Nice setup. i agree with you, but the op was originally talking about just bolt-ons, which would benefit more from 2.5".

true i was looking for bolt-ons at first but a little help with other ideas is not bad either and supercharging my car with a centrifugal supercharger would be a super sleeper setup as i wouldn't need a bov because it can freewheel because its got a oneway bearing

If i amy correct you. The reason your 2.5" helped make more power was becuase it aided in cylinder SCAVENGING. A 3" pipe DOES NOT create back pressure. Pressure is like a measurement of restriction. So what youd be saying is the smaller or bigger you go, no matter what the more backpressur you will see, NO. If you blow through a small straw and a big straw, which one flows more velocity. If you blow through the big straw you flow more AIR or VOLUME. Thats he same thing with exhuast. The smaller pipe flows so fast it pulls the exhuast gases with it. The bigger you go the the slower the engine flows meaning that exhuast gases will not leave the cylinder as fast. Scavenging and backpressure are different. Big pipes hurt scavenging. Small pipes or bends gain backpressure.


Backpressure is not good.

what did all of that bs mean just give a simple answer please because i already have a 3in exhaust

KA's love to breath. Stick to the 3". The myth about the KA needing a 2.5" to make more power has been just that, a myth.

You're fine with the 3inch.

scavenging is done by the exhaust manifold or header by timing the high and low pressure exhaust pulses with each other.


absoloutley.
any change in the diameter from the manifold flange creates a venturi

a straw is straight and does not change diameter and also you're not going to get 100 degrees of temperature change in a straw. so that analogy is pointless.

as stated above, it is the low pressure pulses that pull the gasses out.

that's backpressure


the only way for an exhaust pipe to hurt scavenging is by creating backpressure in the manifold or header and shortening the exhaust pulse width. but yes, bend in the pipe do not help.


well that's true.


the fact is that the op already said he wanted to go forced induction of some sort. so his 3 inch will be just fine.