moonface is retarded, if they wanted to sell those and make money they should have sold them for like 200 bux or something not 450... s2000s get them cheap why not us. Again though if im doing this im going pbm.. and when pbm will be done is unknown

Why not get your front knuckles done now? The front needs correcting way more than the rear anyway.

well its winter in canada and the car is in storage >_>

That being said, I am waiting on PBM to release their shiznit... last i heard it was still in development (LCA and knuckles). I want the whole package as its designed to go together..

Ah, are you going to do 25mm on the knuckle and 25mm of roll center correction on the LCA? Because if you're just doing 25mm and not 50mm I wouldn't even bother with the rear drop knuckles.

no i want a full 50mm drop :D

Well after lurking this thread for a while I finally settled on a front setup. It's a combination of the Godspeed LCA mod and 95KA-Turbo's setup.

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/9162/001xwr.jpg

Going to fiddle with the spacing once everything is back together and dial out bump steer at the same time
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/6332/1013376t.jpg

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/9206/1013377.jpg

Ordered the monoball and carrier from Pit Stop USA | Your Auto Racing Parts Superstore - Racing Parts/ Racing Suit & Helmets Tuesday night and got them this afternoon (Thursday) so thumbs up to them!

Thats the exact setup i just did. I'm gonna suggest to tack the cup in the control arm while you have it on the car bolted up and suspension compressed, i welded mine in the wrong angle so i have to redo it.

^ lol sound advice I'd say.

^^ Robbie S. - mind sharing part numbers with the rest of us? (who may or may not be internet retarded)
I like that idea, as its probably even more budget friendly than a godspeed LCA setup for my under-employed self.

Yeah, I want to say mine was 300-something for all four LCAs. The expensive part on mine where the 20 dollar a piece shanks I used that have a taper, and the tapered bit to wallow out the spindle.

Hopefully you wont have any binding issues using a straight 3/4" bolt with a 3/4" spherical. I'm not sure if it will fit, but if there was a way to get a 1" spherical in there you could run high misalignment spacers and a 3/4" straight bolt - I think that may have kept SoSideways from binding.

Took me a while to find them, even to find what they were called lol! Only found one place with them too. Definatly cheaper than the Godspeed setup if you have the tools to do it!

UB Machine : UB Machine Upper Control Arms : UB Machine Brake Caliper Brackets : UB Machine Lower Control Arms : UB Machine Susp



I see what you are saying. I'm just going to have to do like singlecamslam said and tack it in and get the angle dialed in for my ride height.

Greddy has some for 220. They're supposed to be similar to moonfaces.

are you using 5/8" or 3/4" sphericals?

I like the idea of using straight bolts for the shank.

http://www.az240sx.org/gallery/12305..._2_1359751.jpg

I made my own tie rod ends for my FC. 5/8", 12pt head, 180ksi bolt. Smacked the wall at irwindale and nothing broke! hahah

They're junk. Just like Megan, they don't move the pivot point, they just space the arm down physically.

Interesting. They were mentioned in an issue of drift tengoku along with MoonFace.

How about these? They're 220 also.

NAGISA AUTO Hyper Roll Center Adapter - Front Nissan

3/4'' bearing with 3/4'' bolt will work if its welded in the right angle. I welded it in at the stock angle and i can almost get to full lock than i start binding, that why i suggested to tack it while its on the car so you can see what the best angle before it binds.
Next time i'm going to be using a high misalignment bearing that sosideways mentioned. Should solve the trick.

3/4". I'm thinking about doing a straight bolt for the tie rod end as well.

Those Nagisa are the real deal if you're ok with just 20mm of correction. That UB machine link is the Tits, thanx!

Nagisa auto's are the legitimate correction. Notice the difference? Nagisa's have a longer shank, Greddy's are just spaced from the bottom up.

I see. I was looking at the sunline ones awhile ago but didn't see any for s13, only s14+. These NAMS' are cheaper than Moonface, about 5mm longer and are available in an s13 taper. You think we can add these to the original post by the Sunline ones PoorMan?

Good to know.

I am using 3/4" heim joints with high misalignment spacers and a straight 5/8" bolt for my tie rod ends.

http://knoop.sumospeed.com/wp-conten.../tie-rod-2.jpg

http://knoop.sumospeed.com/wp-conten.../tie-rod-3.jpg


Z33 tein inners with a custom adjuster piece, and the 3/4" heim joint compared to a S14 tein set up (adjusted full short and just about all the way out).

^ Nice!


length

Are the driftworks rear geo hubs too much RC correction if I have PBM subframe raisers?

^Depends on how low you are. If you lowered your car ~2.5" or more from stock you should be fine.

Thanks for the insight. I would assume I'm at least that low, my rears rims are level with the fender(not tucked).

Doing that right now, they have a good diagram about the difference between real RCA ball joints and the fakers.

Soo, i'm going to be changing axles again tomorrow.

If I put a spacer on the HUB side would it technically do the same thing as having that spacer made for the diff side?

The only reason for the spacer is so the axle isn't being extended as much right?

If i put the spacer on the hub side it is still making the distance shorter.

thoughts?

Just saw the NAMS... not too horribly priced. And i already have the PBM shit with 25mm in the front.

45mm of fury?

Or should i wait till PSM comes out with their LCAs? They said they were gunna provide custom shank lenghts right? so in reality you could set up your roll center to EXACTLY what you want?

unless it hits the brake rotor... huh? fuck.

Yes, the spacer can go on either side.

Wait until PSM comes out with their LCA's. There will be stock and 25mm correction shanks.

Also, when they dropped your ball joint mount, they don't follow the stock angle, they move it in a little (away from your rotor), and I believe the LCA will have a little shallower angle than stock, and not as much extra metal outside the bearing cup like Godspeed. So you just might be able to do 50mm of correction. And you'll have sphericals, a much stiffer control arm, and less anti-dive.

Wait for PSM. Sounds good to me.

Product by 3UP Japan

Thoughts? Opinions?

http://www.e-3up.com/uploads/syouhin/3up/_115_.jpg

http://www.e-3up.com/uploads/syouhin/3up/[21]_1.jpg