Thought I'd throw up a little teaser on the PSM lower control arms. I'll let Dan Chime in with the info if he wants.

The one on the left is going on the inside of the FLCA, the one on the right is going to be used in their other multi-link parts. They are machined from billet.

http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_fil...2_dsc01827.jpg

looks nice

Since I'm so impatient and like to dig up stuff lol:

http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_fil...2_dsc01828.jpg

ooh puurtty puuurtty pictures lol

Also to those interested in the psm rear knuckle wilwood make a caliper that has a mechanical lock for park brake seperate to the hydraulic system but still within the same caliper so you can run this and a secondary caliper while retaining the factory park/hand brake

Here is Ryan Kado testing the PSM 350Z front angle kit.

Dunno if this has been posted, but looks like the large Japanese companies are also making caster adjustable camber plate.

HKS 2way ƒsƒƒ{[ƒ‹ƒAƒbƒp[ƒ}ƒEƒ“ƒg

http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/...way_img_01.jpg

Just a shot to compare to the other at-lock pictures.

http://cdn.driftworks.com/wp-content...by-1200-01.jpg

If you're leading wheel gains positive camber at full lock it will raise that corner of the car up, putting more weight on the opposite corner in the rear, putting more weight to the inside rear wheel, which will give you more forward bite.

Of course too much would be a problem, but this is my take on it.

But in certain chassis, if you have plenty of forward bite, there would be no reason to it I guess? I'm still not completely sure about the pro's and con's of both.

What are the Pros and Cons on leading wheel camber. Im still not sure if flatter is better, or if u want it to be positive.

Also was looking around at the mustang parts for a shop car, ran across these bumpsteer kits they make for them, only 140 bucks.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1.../MMTR-2_LG.jpg


whats the general running cost to make some of those (to those who have made their own kits)

I thought it was a better idea to leave the bump steer adjustment alone, unless the actual spindle mount is dropped since the shank is placed under such a heavy load when one uses maximum correction?

Thats one part of the equation. Now you need to do the same to the FLCA and done. We actually did this on knoops car. Check his thread or here:Knoops Blog

would it be worth it to make a kit like this and sell it? oh would it only worth while to make a kit for LCA and Tie rod?

ya Steven's car is the only one off hand i can think of with this. And Stance wants 250 for their angle kit that corrects bump steer

I am using a 5/8" thick 6" long grade 8 bolt with a 3/4" heim joint and 3/4 --> 5/8 reducer misalignment bushings. I also have some decently thick (I can't remember the wall thickness) tubing as my spacer between the spindle and heim joint.

No issues as of yet. I don't have bump stops, my 3/4" heim joint just hits the LCA.

You can see the heim joint, the custom shank, and the Z33 tein inner tie rod (that's compared to S14 tein inner and outer tie rods).

http://knoop.sumospeed.com/wp-conten.../tie-rod-2.jpg


I don't remember how much it all cost, but the custom shank was the most expensive part and it was in the 100-120 range. The bolts and misalignment spacers are cheap, as was the tubing I'm using as a spacer. I'm pretty sure you can get the heim joints I have for like 20 bucks a piece.

Figured I'd just post this up here and let you know the results. My friend around town decided to try it first and loved it so I'm willing to give it a shot. I'm willing to try it after seeing how bad my front wheels are when at lock, camber wise and contact patch,

Check the left front,
http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/...ce2db0cd_o.jpg


Here's a decent shot of the trailing wheel, it's maybe got almost half the tread on the road if that,
http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/...b0b98cb5_o.jpg

So what my friend tried and liked was this, set the upper camber plate to full positive camber, then rotate the plate around to where it goes back to negative camber and gains the forward caster. It still has plenty of negative camber, the same as before I switched it up I'm pretty sure.
http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/...x/114_3656.jpg

Now check out the wheels on the ground,
http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/...x/114_3657.jpg
http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/...x/114_3658.jpg

So far I've felt a big increase in steering response (atleast to me) and more feedback through the wheel, not really heavy, just more there kinda thing lol.

I'm giong to run it on the 15th at the same track and see what it does. If I don't like it, it's a really easy fix so I'll just put it back but so far it's pretty good.

How long is your TC rod? Did you shorten it or lengthen it or kept it stock length?

The setup you have right now is good for drifting, but bad for grip. There's no camber gain on the outside wheel (for grip).

Mine is set to basically factory length, possibly a touch shorter can't remember lol. Yeah I'm only using it for drift so that's good news I suppose haha. I'm going back and forth on this still, I'll try it once but if I don't like it I'm going to just put it back how it was, I'm a little worried the steering wheel will be weird in the drift, seems like this setup might create understeer or make the car try to straighten out. On the other hand, it looks like this could make the switch backs pretty quick. Definitely some testing to do haha.

Could someone explain to me what the difference is in sway bar widths and what would come from a larger width rather than a smaller width

the shorter/straighter the more stiff just as the wider OD the stronger... vs smaller od...

less bends = more stiff

If you need more negative camber, you can always have your LCA's lengthened. In fact, you should have yours boxed anyway, it actually does make a bit of a difference in steer feel and turn in.

Any body familiar with these end links before? Are they good/bad? I've never heard of them.
http://www.figsengineering.com/IMAGE...ODENDoptSM.jpg

The site says Now personally, I think that anything strong enough to withstand lots of street use would need to be stronger than something suggested for track only.

But they both look to be metal on metal instead of a poly bushing on something on the inside. So I'm interested how different are they really?

I didn't know if anyone was aware but, I installed my driftworks offest rack spacers last week and noticed that I didn't have to notch my rack at all. I have read, even on driftworks site that you have to notch for LHD chassis. I have a 98 s14 btw.

I have seen where others have to do this...
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...G/100_2868.jpg

Mine fit like this..
http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/9...9211738535.jpg

They make them for both LHD and RHD cars now.

http://ll.speedhunters.com/u/f/eagam...%201/PT1/1.jpg

How was this accomplished? Inside wheels has more angle than the outside wheel. I have made knuckles before but this is just rediculous. I think he has the best "drift" set up right now. Backwards entries like a boss.


Drunk talk..sorry!!!

Ackerman. There is some debate as to the correct amount. Some like more, some less. I would love to read a write-up on this car.

Maybe you guys could help me with this.

ONLY mod is PBM tie rod spacers.

Passenger wheel at lock. Tie rod not touching bump stop.
http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._2452885_n.jpg

Drivers wheel at lock, tie rod on bump stop.
http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._6719137_n.jpg
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...3_748619_n.jpg

Why doesn't my passenger side get the badass angle that my drivers side does?

When drifting at full right lock the passenger wheel will sometimes go over center to where the tie rod hits the bump stop, and then I have a bitch of a time pulling out of it.

However when at full left lock, the tie rod is already on the bump stop with way more angle, and I can pull out of it just fine every time...

Thinking about getting George's passenger side rack extension and re centering, would that fix it?

That would definitely do it, but also make sure your caster is the same on both sides.

Did not know that. I didn't have to specify when I ordered them.

Looks like Powers is ahead of the game!

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...lad_rd2_31.jpg

I would love to see the front suspension set up on the team burst car. He definetly runs an odd setup on the s-chassy. just look at his car at a stand still. Front end pretty high, rear down.......hummm. The only other person with a set up like this is DAI, and he is killing it.

Also, what happen to matt?

That's because that keeps the front roll center from entering the core of the earth.

Looks like he modified his knuckles for negative ackerman, which would make the car turn like a SUV in normal situations, but I could see how it would make for massive angle.

Matt dirt dropped at aAtlanta while trying backwards entries.