Viper 5901 into s14. Help needed.
 

I am trying to install my Viper 5901 into my 97 240sx. I am still unsure about a few of the connections, even after searching1995-97 Nissan 240 SX Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information, Stealth Car Alarm Install - 95-98 Nissan 240SX, #/f/chat/142355-inst...1xv-alarm.html. Any help would be appreciated.

Here are the connections I already know:

H1 Main Harness

H1/1 Red/White (-) 200mA Aux/Trunk output --> to trunk selonoid relay
H1/2 Red (+) 12V constant input--> to 12V white in ING harness
H1/3 Brown (+) Siren Output--> to sirens
H1/4 White/Brown Parking Light Isolation wire--> not used
H1/5 Black (-) Chassis Ground--> to ground
H1/6 Violet (+) Door Trigger Input--> not used
H1/7 Blue (-) Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input--> to tilt sensor, backup battery, and trunk light
H1/8 Green (-) Door Trigger Input--> to red/white drivers side kick panel
H1/9 Black/White (-) 200mA Dome Light Supervision output--> not used
H1/10 White/Blue (-) Remote Start/Turbo Timer Activation--> not used, have an Apexi turbo timer (using diode)
H1/11 White Parking Light output--> to red/blue ING harness
H1/12 Orange (-) 500mA Ground when armed output --> to 507M tilt sensor and for fuel cut trigger

The following harnesses have connections that I am unsure about. :confused:

H2 Harness

H2/1 Light Green/black (-) 200mA alarm disarm output --> to green/yellow, anti-theft
H2/2 Orange/Black (-) 200mA Aux 4 output --> not used???
H2/3 Green/White (-) 200mA alarm arm output --> light green/red, anti-theft
H2/4 Violet/black (-) 200mA Aux 2 output --> not used???
H2/5 White/Black (-) 200mA Aux 3 output --> not used???
H2/6 White/violet (-) 200mA Aux 1 output --> not used???
H2/7 Grey/black (-) Diesel wait to start input --> not used???
H2/8 Brown/black (-) 200mA Horn Honk output-->to yellow/green anti-theft module
H2/9 Violet/White Tachometer input --> to yellow/red, ECM passenger side kick panel
H2/10 Dark blue (-) 200mA status output -->not used???
H2/11 pink/white (-) 200mA flex relay control output -->???
H2/12 orange (-) 200mA accessory output --> ???
H2/13 purple (-) 200mA starter output --> ???
H2/14 pink (-) 200mA ignition 1 output --> ???
H2/15 grey (-) Hood pin input --> to yellow/black, anti-theft module
H2/16 blue/white (-) 200mA 2nd status/rear defogger output --> ????
H2/17 brown (+) brake shutdown input --> to red/green , brake switch
H2/18 black/white (-) neutral safety input --> ???????


H3 Remote Start Harness

H3/1 Pink (+) Ignition 1 input/output --> to white, ignition harness car side
H3/2 Red/White (87) Flex Relay input (30A Fused) --> not used
H3/3 Orange (+) Accessory output --> not used???
H3/4 Violet (+) Starter output car side --> to black/yellow, ignition harness car side
H3/5 Green (+) Starter input key side --> to black/yellow, ignition harness key side
H3/6 Red Ignition 1 input (30A fused) --> to white, ignition harness key side
H3/7 Pink/White (30) Flex Relay output --> ?????
H3/8 Pink/black (87a) Flex relay input --> ?????
H3/9 Red/black accessory/starter relay input (30A fused) --> ?????

If someone could help fill in the question marks and correct any mistakes that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

H1 Main Harness

H1/1 Red/White (-) 200mA Aux/Trunk output --> to trunk selonoid relay NOT USED
H1/2 Red (+) 12V constant input--> to 12V white in ING harness CORRECT
H1/3 Brown (+) Siren Output--> to sirens TO RED WIRE OF SIREN
H1/4 White/Brown Parking Light Isolation wire--> not used CORRECT
H1/5 Black (-) Chassis Ground--> to ground CORRECT
H1/6 Violet (+) Door Trigger Input--> not used CORRECT
H1/7 Blue (-) Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input--> to tilt sensor, backup battery, and trunk light CORRECT
H1/8 Green (-) Door Trigger Input--> to red/white drivers side kick panel CORRECT
H1/9 Black/White (-) 200mA Dome Light Supervision output--> not used OPTIONAL
H1/10 White/Blue (-) Remote Start/Turbo Timer Activation--> not used, have an Apexi turbo timer (using diode)
H1/11 White Parking Light output--> to red/blue ING harness CORRECT (set fuse for "+" under door on module)
H1/12 Orange (-) 500mA Ground when armed output --> to 507M tilt sensor and for fuel cut trigger CORRECT

The following harnesses have connections that I am unsure about.

H2 Harness

H2/1 Light Green/black (-) 200mA alarm disarm output --> to green/yellow, anti-theft CORRECT
H2/2 Orange/Black (-) 200mA Aux 4 output --> not used??? CORRECT
H2/3 Green/White (-) 200mA alarm arm output --> light green/red, anti-theft CORRECT
H2/4 Violet/black (-) 200mA Aux 2 output --> not used??? CORRECT
H2/5 White/Black (-) 200mA Aux 3 output --> not used??? CORRECT
H2/6 White/violet (-) 200mA Aux 1 output --> not used??? CORRECT
H2/7 Grey/black (-) Diesel wait to start input --> not used??? CORRECT
H2/8 Brown/black (-) 200mA Horn Honk output-->to yellow/green anti-theft module CORRECT or optional
H2/9 Violet/White Tachometer input --> to yellow/red, ECM passenger side kick panel CORRECT(or any fuel injector wire that is not the common color)
H2/10 Dark blue (-) 200mA status output -->not used??? CORRECT
H2/11 pink/white (-) 200mA flex relay control output --> NOT USED
H2/12 orange (-) 200mA accessory output --> ??? NOT USED
H2/13 purple (-) 200mA starter output --> ??? wire to pin 85 of a SPDT relay, Pin 87: heavy gauge 12volts from White wire in ignition harness, pin 86: small gauge 12 volt jumper from pin 87, pin30: heavy gauge wire to black/white in ignition harness, pin 87a not used.
H2/14 pink (-) 200mA ignition 1 output --> ??? NOT USED
H2/15 grey (-) Hood pin input --> to yellow/black, anti-theft module CORRECT
H2/16 blue/white (-) 200mA 2nd status/rear defogger output --> ???? NOT USED
H2/17 brown (+) brake shutdown input --> to red/green , brake switch CORRECT
H2/18 black/white (-) neutral safety input --> If manual trans then e-brake wire at e-brake. If auto then ground it.


H3 Remote Start Harness

H3/1 Pink (+) Ignition 1 input/output --> to white, ignition harness car side BLACK/RED at ignition harness
H3/2 Red/White (87) Flex Relay input (30A Fused) --> not used WHITE at ignition harness (the one that test as 12volt constant)
H3/3 Orange (+) Accessory output --> not used??? CORRECT
H3/4 Violet (+) Starter output car side --> to black/yellow, ignition harness car side CORRECT
H3/5 Green (+) Starter input key side --> to black/yellow, ignition harness key side CORRECT
H3/6 Red Ignition 1 input (30A fused) --> to white, ignition harness key side WHITE at ignition harness (the one that test as 12volt constant)
H3/7 Pink/White (30) Flex Relay output --> ????? Cut the non constant 12v WHITE wire at ignition harness, this goes to NON key side
H3/8 Pink/black (87a) Flex relay input --> ????? Cut the non constant 12v WHITE wire at ignition harness, this goes to key side
H3/9 Red/black accessory/starter relay input (30A fused) --> ????? WHITE at ignition harness (the one that test as 12volt constant)

NOTE: You must set Menu 3, item 8 to option 2. This will set the Flex Relay for Accessory2

Toby your a class act my friend. Thanks you so much for the help.

No problem man! Just let me know if you need any other wiring help or with programming options.... I'm sure you might get stuck somewhere else along the way. You can just post in here again.

Toby

haha this helped out alot. I was about to pay 320 because i could not find a red wire that my car never had lol.

what did you do with the 3-pin door lock connector? is it used ?

Green - Power Lock ---> Lt. green/white @ anti-theft module (The anti-theft module is located just above hood release cable in the drivers kick panel.)

Blue - Power Unlock ---> Brown @ anti-theft module (The anti-theft module is located just above hood release cable in the drivers kick panel.)

thank you so much, last question i hope. On Harness 2/3 i dont have a light green/red wire. i have a base 95 S14. what other wire can i use? i have a light green/ white:x:

If you don't have factory security, then you obviously won't have a factory arm wire in the car... which in turn means you won't hook that wire up.;)

thanks a' lot again.

Toby,

I am having some issues with the H3 harness install. My car is totally dismantled so I have no way of measuring 12V. I'm sort of confused on the flex relay wiring for the alarm and the white wire for the car.

Do I tie the red/white, red/black, and the solid red together and solder that to the fuse side of the white wire?

Do the pink/black and the pink/white get attached together and soldered to the white wire on the key side?

Above it says that the pink/black and the pink/white wires are both 12V non constant, but the pink/white is on the car side and the pink/black is on the key side, this is confusing me, maybe it would be easier if I had a 12V supply, but some help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

I think you are over thinking it. All of the heavy gauge red wires, whether they have a stripe or not, get tied into 12volts constant. The smaller red wire from the H1 harness also gets tied in with these wires. So I strip back all four wires and wrap them around the vehicles constant wire in the ignition harness and then solder/tape it. The vehicles constant wire is the white wire in the ignition harness. You will obviously need to test for this since there are two white wires in the ignition harness.

As for the accessory wire, which is the other white wire in the ignition harness, it needs to be isolated from the key cylinder during remote start. So in other words, the key cylinder cannot see 12volts on this white wire during remote start. So we need to cut it and loop it through the Flex Relay in the Viper. The in and out on the Viper is the pink/black and pink/white. So you need to cut this white accessory wire in half. On the side that goes to the key cylinder you will wire in the pink/black. Then the other side of the cut wire will wire to the pink/white wire. You will then need to make sure you read my programming note in my 1st post.

I have another question. My alarm chirps but the door locks don't open or close when I arm or disarm the alarm , also do my lights have to flash when I arm the alarm ? Or is it a mode that I have to select ?

Also pm me your paypal so I can send u for some beer . Thanks

Haha, beer money. I will have to chip in too.

Yeah Toby, when it comes to wiring, I always over think things. I dont know how people do this for a living. Upside down, head in the dash. My neck and back are sore. I didnt see the second white wire, that were my confusion was. Thanks again.

I have a friend interested in some audio gear. I was wondering if you could pm me with some prices for your top of the line 6x9's and 6 or 6 1/2 speakers. And a top of the line amp to run 4 of those speakers. Please and thanks.

As for the locks, you either have something wired incorrectly or you have a bad system. I'll ask the obvious: you do have OEM power locks on the car?

Yes, they have to flash if you have the parking lights hooked up. May I ask why you don't want them to flash only on arm? You may be able to use a relay to interrupt the parking light feed from the Viper. You would trigger it with the green lock wire from the Viper. You won't know until you trying it though... the timing is going to be close.

LOL, thanks for the offer.... but I don't drink beer anyway.;)

Cool man, I'm glad you got that figured out.

As for the audio equipment, are you sure he wants pricing on my top-of-the-line stuff? That gets out of hand real quick. I'll send you a PM and we can discuss it.

The car does have oem power locks. I did connect the blue and green wires for the door locks. I just don't know why they are not working.

The question about the parking lights is that mine don't flash , so I'm thinking I hooked something up incorrectly . I do want them to flash when arm and disarm. I just hope I don't have a bad system.

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Toby, with the audio sensor and its extra 3 pin connector. I dont have a shock sensor, so can I just use the prox/motion sensor in its place? Thanks

Did you test the wires to confirm they were indeed the lock/unlock wires before you tapped into them? If they do indeed test, then simply touch ground to the lock wire of the car and it should lock the doors. If so, then you have a bad Viper or you have something wired incorrectly somehow.

As for the parking lights, do you have the correct red/blue wire.... did you test to confirm? There are two red/blues in the ignition harness if that's where you got it. Only one of those is the parking light wire. Also, the obvious: did you insert the parking light fuse under the door on the brain?

Basically the prox will plug into the port on the brain. Then you will cut off the ends of the audio sensor and tap the blue, red and black wires in with the same colors on the prox cable. Does that make sense?

Got it. Thanks again

If I was to use the the dome light supervision output, how would go about doing that?
Connect the alarms green and black/white together. Connect them to the red/white in the dirver's side kick panel and ground the alarms violet?

First simply try wiring black/white in with the green for the door trigger. Sometimes the ground output of the black/white is strong enough to turn on the dome light. If it doesn't work then you simply need to wire a relay to beef up the ground output of the black/white wire.

Relay:

85 --> Black/white
86 --> 12 volts constant
87 --> Ground
30 --> Vehicle's door trigger(so just tie it in with the green wire on the Viper)

Yes, i tested the wires. When i hooked the blue and green wires they would unlock and lock the door lock as i moved them together.


uhm...:duh:. It was not that obvious to me lol.

So with the blue and green wires disconnected from your OEM door lock wires, if you touch the green wire to the OEM lock wire it locks the doors? Likewise if you touch the blue wire to the OEM unlock wire it unlocks the doors? If so you have a bad system. Unless you have a bad ground for the Viper. But I assume it's ok since you said the rest of the Viper works.... correct?

Yes , that is correct. When I would touch the wires for the unlock and lock they would work. I'm going to check my ground on the alarm and if that does not work I will be ordering one from you.

Thanks, Rafael.


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Alright, just let me know what happens with it.

So do you need to ground the voilet, or leave floating?

H1/7 Blue connects to red at the anti-theft. Mine has been moved from pin 26 on the anti-theft to pin 20 on the A/T Countrol Unit. It must have been done by the previous owner. Can I still use this?

No, the violet is for vehicles with + door triggers. So you will not use it at all.

As for the red wire, this is your trunk pin trigger. So you need to test it to be sure. With the trunk closed, the red wire should rest at 12V+ or open. When you open the trunk the red wire should go to ground.

I am trying to wire up two relays off of negative triggers for the trunk popper and the fuel cut. I was just wondering if you could confirm this wiring is correct.

Truck Popper Relay

85- Red/White from alarm (-)
86- 12V from Battery (fused)
30- 12V from battery (fused)
87a- not connected
87- to truck solenoid

Fuel Cut

85- orange wire from alarm
86- black/red ignition at key switch
87a- black/yellow at fuel pump relay or pump
87- not connected
30- 12V fused from battery

I dont know if its were everything is disconnected, but my red wire is a short to ground. So I dont know if there is a switch in the AT control unit the switches the voltage.

Pin 20 on the AT control module is the selector for ''R" for the automatic transmission.

The trunk relay is correct, but the fuel cut is not. If you want to cut the fuel source, then you will need to interrupt the wire for the pump. So you will cut the fuel pump wire in half and connect one side to 87a and the other side to 30... doesn't matter which side you hook to each. Otherwise 85, 86 and 87 are correct.

Toby,

I am unable to find the red wire for the trunk trigger. Is there an alternative? I am also unable to locate the light green/red wire on the anti theft module. I am assuming that the anti theft module and the SECU are the same thing, is this correct? If so, mine doesnt have all the pins. Looking at the fsm and the pin out, I believe the the light green/red wire should be pin 8. But on my connecter only has one pin on the bottom, pin 10 brown. I'm really confused now.

The person that owned the car before me must have been at the harness, I'm finding splices and tape everywhere.

love this alarm set up. but is there anyway to fool the system into thinking that the car is set into MTS mode for the remote start, without having to pre set it before getting out?


thanks

I had the same questions and I found the wires thanks to Mr. Broadfield. The alternative red wire is by the trunk. I will take a pic of it and post it.


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So is it only the LE's with the anti-theft module? Mine is an SE.

Does your car have factory security? If not, then it obviously won't have the anti-theft module. The trunk pin wire you can get at the light in the trunk if needed.

You can simply set it for automatic mode. You will still want the e-brake hooked to the black/white neutral safety wire. Keep in mind if you or anyone else leaves it in gear, it's going to drive away even with the e-brake on. You could make a safety device that mounts under your shifter boot. It would have to be a ring suspended by springs around the actual shifter shaft. You then ground the shaft and wire the ring to negative shutdown. So if the shifter touches the ring, aka its's in gear, then it will send ground to the negative shut down wire and not allow the remote start to initiate. You would most likely need to remove the inner shifter boot to do this.

It had an autostart alarm system half installed by the previous owner. I'm thinking it didnt have the factory alarm, but I dont really know.

I'm having zero luck with these last two wires. My SECU only has half the wires installed. I looked up my MID number and it doesnt say anything about factory alarm. So if my SECU has the green/yellow for the alarm disarm output, shouldnt it have the lt. green/red for the arm? Can this be found in smj?

Guys, I appologize about this. I dont think it would be this hard if my car wasnt already hacked up.

You don't need the arm wire for anything. If it doesn't have factory security then it's not going to arm anyway. And since you are installing an aftermarket security system, then arming the factory security is pointless even if it does have it. The arm wire out of the Viper is there because the remote starters share the same platform as the remote starter/security systems. Trust me, you are making it harder than it needs to be. The wiring you are talking about being hacked in your car has no bearing on this install.

Ok man, thanks.

I checked my wiring and everything looks ok. My alarm stop working . Last sound it made was a long chirp then it stopped responding.
My control just shows an x when I press it. I think I killed my alarm control unit .
I haven't had time to check it out because of finals but it's been like that for 2weeks .

Now do you sell the control unit or do they sell the control unit ? Or do I have to buy another alarm?
Please let me know , thanks.

Rafael



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Just disconnected the module and I tried to start my car and it wont start. I connected the module to harness H3 and it started . My antennas light does not turn on and my remote still gives me the error that It can't connect. Does my module work or should I still replace it .


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You could have a bad remote
You could have a remote that simply isn't paired to the brain anymore
You could have a bad brain
You could have a bad antenna or antenna cable

These systems have a limited lifetime warranty. Just take it back to where you got it!?!

I got it from a shop that was closing. Im going to exhaust all possibilities that do not require replacing the module. Then I will just order one from ya and if I fix it . Then I will need some rear speakers for my car , cuz damn my car sounds like mosquitos are buzzing in the back... Lol


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Just wondering about my connections for the power window module. What I am unsure about is the passenger side sub switch. Do I connect before or after the sub switch? Do I need to wire the tilt sensor into the sensor bypass relay? Thanks

530T Window Automation Module Wiring

H1/1 Violet- ground path motor #1 --> chassis ground
H1/2 Green- driver’s side down motor (motor side) --> driver side door blue (motor side)
H1/3 Blue- up, motor (motor side) --> driver side door green (motor side)
H1/4 Red- Constant 12V --> from battery or white at ignition harness
H1/5 Black- chassis ground --> chassis ground
H1/6 Violet/Black- ground path motor #2 --> chassis ground
H1/7 Green/Black- passenger side, down motor #2 --> passenger side door blue or red/white (motor side)?
H1/8 Blue/Black- up, motor #2 passenger side --> passenger side door green or red/black (motor side)?

H2/1 Brown- up, switch #1 (switch side) --> drivers side door green (switch side)
H2/2 White- driver side down switch #1 (switch side) --> drivers side door blue (switch side)
H2/3 Red/White (-) - auxiliary input --> connects to H2/6 white/violet on alarm
H2/4 Orange (-) - ground when armed --> connects to H1/12 orange on main alarm harness
H2/5 Grey- output during activation --> wires to relay to bypass audio, motion and tilt sensors (see relay connections below)
H2/6 Brown/Black- up, switch #2 passenger side (switch side) --> passenger side door green or red/black (switch side)?
H2/7 White/Black- down, switch #2 passenger side (switch side) --> passenger side door blue or red/white (switch side)?

Sensor Bypass Relay

85- H2/5 Grey from 530T
86- 12V (fused) from battery
87- N/A
87A- Red wire from tilt, audio and motion sensor
30- Red wire from alarm

I think I figured out why my alarm does not work. I think I locked my self out of it. I was. Reading that I might need a bitwriter ? What is that?


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I was wondering if I need one of those as well. Here is a description in an add I found. It looks like a universal programer for alarms.

998T Bitwriter And Bitwriter Upgrade Chip Version 2.7 With 998U And 998M

NEED one, absolutely not. That's more for people like me who use it 500 times a year. You would only use it once to program your system. Once you program your system the way you want it, you will most likely never touch it again. Just do it through the programming button and save yourself $100.

Toby, I just got the 5901 from you today. I figured I'll follow the links at the beginning of this thread to get me started but before all that, I got one question. Is there anything I need to watch out for in installing an alarm, when I still have the stock alarm on the car? The alarm is disarmed and works intermittently. I still have the stock OEM remote and I think it barely works. I've had it turn on once and took me a while to turn it off, think I've managed to open the doors with the remote a couple of times but that was it.

I assume this is for an S14? The only thing you want to do is make sure you wire in the factory alarm disarm wire to the Viper. That way if the OEM alarm gets armed for some reason, the Viper will disarm it when you hit the unlock button on the Viper remote.

hey everyone i bought the viper 5901 for my 1996 240sx se and im still confused on the 2 wires from harness h1...the blue wire and the orange wire....where do i hook it up to? i read on here that it hooks to the tilt sensor/backup batt/ etc...but im not sure what color wires these are? if anyone can help that would be great..!

Well, do you have a tilt sensor, battery backup etc.? I need to know exactly which sensors you have. If you don't have any extra sensors then you will only use the blue wire for trunk trigger and the orange for nothing.

no i dont have the tilt sensor or backup battery......what wire is the trunk trigger?

oh and for what i have hooked up so far everything seems to work fine except that it keeps saying my hood is open with its not, and gives me a sensor 2 alert also.....anyone know how to fix this?

Then you won't hook up anything to orange. If you want your alarm to go off if the trunk is opened then you will hook the blue wire up to the trunk trigger wire which is red at the anti-theft module. It will test as negative when you open up the trunk. PLEASE test this wire to verify it is indeed the wire you think it is. If your S14 is not equipped with an anti-theft module, the red wire is located in a harness at the left trunk hinge.

As for the hood false, what do you have the grey Viper wire attached to? If it's not hooked to anything, is the end of it touching something? How often does this happen?

Zone 2 is the on board shock sensor. Is your shock sensor being triggered? How do you know it's zone 2? Are you reading it off the remote when it's actually occurring or are you counting the number of LED flashes on the antenna when you disarm the system? How often does this happen?

pretty much after i start my car...i wired everything up like it should and it seems to be fine now ...but everytime i lock my car i still get that shock sensor 2 error, and my LED light keeps flashing even after i have the car started and key in ignition, could it be because i have a push start button? i counted the flashing LED lights and it flashes 4 at first and then 2 and then repeats.....any fix? oh and also is there a way to program my alarm to auto lock after i have the ignition started?

You definitely do not have everything wired correct if you are having these issues. Your LED should reset(turn off) when you turn the ignition on. So it sounds like the heavy gauge pink Viper wire is not receiving an ignition signal. The reason you are still showing a triggered zone is because the Viper never thinks you turn the ignition on. Does it remote start correctly? As for the locks, you just need to program if for ignition controlled door locks.

ok...so update i relocated the shock sensor and now im good to go on the shock sensor error.....now its just the blinking lights...lol

how do i program that? through the remote fob? and no i dont have the pink wire hooked up...is that why its blinking?

is the pink wire suppose to come from H2 harness or H3 harness?

ok sorry broadfield i read that again....hooked up the THICK pink wire and voila! no more flashing LED light.......thanks a bunch! and i do still get that sensor 2 error on my remote fob but at certain times when im pressing the lock/unlock consistantly.....but yeah still wanna know how to program the ignition lock so my locks automatically lock after i start my car....

Wait, you have an outboard shock sensor? It's built into the 5901 internally!?!


Do you not have the installation manual? If not, you can simply get it off Viper's website... which is a lot easier than me sitting here trying to tell you how to program it.

I had a question regarding my 2 way 479vx remote, mine is pretty messed up, the LCD screen is broken, before I just buy a new remote is there any other 2way LCD I can program to it? Like maybe the newer LCD remote, I know my viper 791vx is older than time but the price for a new 479vx remote is kinda expensive and for that price I can eBay a whole viper alarm for a few bucks more

No, a new remote cannot be programmed to an older system. They are completely different platforms.

Thanks for clearing that up, I was looking online and I may just pick up the viper that I can use my iPhone with

You do realize I sell that on here!?! I'm sure I can match the price if necessary.

Buy from Toby, do it.

Well I installed the brain in today but I still need to put in the peripherals like the back up battery, tilt sensor, mic and interior sensor.

I havent messed around with it other than to try it out. The alarm arms and disarms fine. But I got some issues. Power door locks arent opening/closing with the alarm. I wired up the 3 pin connector and tapped blue to brown and green to light green on the ATM. Even when I try to turn the door lock on/off, its working intermittently.

Remote start isnt working (gave me an error), figured I have to set it up first.

you gotta program your tach into the module first.

after that, if everything is hooked up properly, you have to set your e-brake up, press the remote start button (if not remote start, i think it's the lock button) on the remote, take the key out of the ignition, get out of the car, and then lock it.

then you can remote start it =D

Well, I cut a corner that I know now I screwed up on. I hooked up the H2 Black/White wire before the E-brake switch so it's seeing (+) instead of (-), figured I'd need to hook it up after the switch so its grounded.

Also I gotta double check how I wired up the H2 Brown wire for the Brake Shutdown. When I was testing the remote start, it was giving me 5 flashes, pointing that the brake wire is active. I tested it, pressing the brakes and it gave me 7 flashes, stating that I have not initialized the MT Mode. I'm guessing I tapped the wrong wire on this one too, just like above.

Then I still gotta figure out why my parking lights doesnt blink with the chirp. I jumped the fuse inside the module to (+), I jumped the inside, not the outside 2.

Lastly, I still got my power door lock issue. No clue why its not working, tapped the 3 pin door lock connector. Blue to unlock the Brown wire and Green to lock the Lt Green/White wires at the SECU. Just to make sure, I just tap them and not cut them off correct?

I'm attempting to follow the Installation Points in the quick guide. I've learned the Tach (LED turned constant) and thats about it. Nothing else seems to work. Tried to do a Shutdown Diagnostic, nothing. Clicked on remote start and I get the MT mode not initialized (7 beeps/flashes). Can't do the MT mode initialized (turn the engine on, set the e-brake up, pressed and released the brake, pressed any button on the remote...nothing). Tried going into Programming to set the Menu 3, Item 8, Opt 2...can't even do that. Opened the door, turn the ign on/off, pressed/hold Control Button...nothing beeped.

Needless to say, this thread is gonna be popping for a while till I work my issues out.

A few things to check:

• Is your door trigger sending signal to the Viper when the door is open? You can not program the system or remote start it in manual trans mode if the Viper does not see this signal. Test the green wire at the brain and make sure you have a negative signal when you release the door pin... obviously the other door needs to be closed.
• Are you doing the correct remote start procedure? With car running and in neutral: foot on the foot brake, e-brake on-off-on, release foot brake, remote start vehicle, turn key off(vehicle should stay running at this point), open door, close door and then press lock on the Viper remote. If done correctly, then the engine will shut off when you lock it. Of course you said your e-brake input is wired incorrectly and your brake might wired incorrectly... so the remote start will absolutely do noting if you have these wrong.
• As for the door locks, did you test the lock wires in the car to confirm they are what you think they are? Each wire will go to negative when you hit the related button. If the wires go to negative when you hit the lock/unlock switch then you have the correct wires... so you can rule that out. You may have a bad brain or some other issue.

Get the e-brake and foot brake wires straightened out then we'll go from there.

Well worked some of the wiring out but I'm stomped on the door locks. I double checked the wires and I'm sure it's the right wires. They both have power and gets interrupted when they are switched. The issue is when the plug the 3 pin back into the brain, it's grounding out the unlock. You can hear the stock relay click. I'd lock the doors, the plug the 3 pin in and the doors would unlock, and the signal just stays on. Think it's a bad brain?

Anyways I've managed to get it to remote start ready. It just won't restart. I'll double check the wiring and post up how I wired the spdt.

For the door locks, unplug the 3 pin from the Viper and simply touch ground for a second to the green wire... it should lock the doors. Then touch ground for a second to the blue wire... it should unlock the doors. If this works, then you most likely have a bad brain. I NEVER see this at work though... installing 500/year. And I have already had 3 people this year with this problem that installed their own system. So I'm not sure if they/you are doing something wrong where it burns up the outputs or what!?! I assume you have a really good ground on the black wire of the Viper?

As for the remote start, did you wire every single wire EXACTLY as described below and set the flex relay as described below?

H3 Remote Start Harness

H3/1 Pink (+) Ignition 1 input/output --> to white, ignition harness car side BLACK/RED at ignition harness
H3/2 Red/White (87) Flex Relay input (30A Fused) --> not used WHITE at ignition harness (the one that test as 12volt constant)
H3/3 Orange (+) Accessory output --> not used??? CORRECT
H3/4 Violet (+) Starter output car side --> to black/yellow, ignition harness car side CORRECT
H3/5 Green (+) Starter input key side --> to black/yellow, ignition harness key side CORRECT
H3/6 Red Ignition 1 input (30A fused) --> to white, ignition harness key side WHITE at ignition harness (the one that test as 12volt constant)
H3/7 Pink/White (30) Flex Relay output --> ????? Cut the non constant 12v WHITE wire at ignition harness, this goes to NON key side
H3/8 Pink/black (87a) Flex relay input --> ????? Cut the non constant 12v WHITE wire at ignition harness, this goes to key side
H3/9 Red/black accessory/starter relay input (30A fused) --> ????? WHITE at ignition harness (the one that test as 12volt constant)

NOTE: You must set Menu 3, item 8 to option 2. This will set the Flex Relay for Accessory2

For the ground, I did what was recommended in Cause For Alarm, got a ring terminal and bolted it into the dash bar. I'll try to move it but I doubt it would make a difference.

As far as the wiring, double checked everything and wires are wired as noted. The only question I got, just to make sure, is the Violet H3 Wire: I cut the Black/Yellow wire in half, and soldered that wire to the car side like noted. But you said "But will also jump to the Black/White at IGN Harness", do I have to do anything else with that wire other than making the SPDT relay?

Mike sent me info and I followed what he said as far as the relay:
pin 85- you solder the purple wire h2/13.
pin 86- take a 14 to 18 gauge wire and solder to relay socket wire pin 86 or use the socket wire, if its long enough. the other end of this wire will connect to relay socket pin 87 and the 8 to 10 gauge connection point.
pin 87- solder a peice of 8 or 10 gauge wire to realy socket pin 87. dont forget to solder in the jumper wire from pin 86. the end of the 8 or 10 gauge wire is soldered to the white ignition harness
pin 30- 8 to 10 gauge wire from relay socket pin 30 to black/white in the ignition harness

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...40sx/photo.jpg

So like above, purple wire from the H2 harness into 85, jumpered 86 to 87, 87 tapped off the hot 12v, 30 tapped to Black/White.

One thing I learned after this shit, I need to invest on a better multimeter. I should have borrowed one from work like I used to, no clue why I didnt before I did this shit.

Sorry, I forgot to remove that part when I made the edit about adding the relay. Do not jump to the black/white wire. That was only a "poor" man's way of doing it. But come to find out it makes the starter kill feature not work correctly. So I changed the write-up to reflect using a relay instead. Also, never solder to a relay. Too much heat on the pin can affect the inner workings;)

As for your ground, where you have it is fine!

Well Toby, I owe a fucking beer...there's nothing wrong with the brain. Its all installer error. Take note of this because its pretty funny, well retarded on my part more than anything. Reason why the damn door lock is fucking up is cuz I kept plugging the damn 3 pin wire into the WRONG DAMN PORT!!! I swear, the crease on the manual made me think I'm supposed to be plugging it into the the first port on the left (bit writer port). I had to look at the manual on the one you just sent me to realize that cuz my manual right now has a lot of smidges on it.

I got it to remote start but I had to depress the clutch pedal. Do I just have to hard wire the clutch interlock wire together? Also, still working on figuring out why the damn parking lights are not blinking when with the alarm/beeps.

Yeah man, it's almost always installer error. I figured as much, but it was just as easy to send you a new system to prove that it wasn't the brain. As for the parking lights, did you insert the fuse under the access panel? It needs to be set for the correct polarity. You will need to bypass the clutch during remote start. I've never even installed a remote start on a 240, so I'm not sure how the clutch even tests. So get under there with a test probe, multi-meter whatever you have and test the two wires in the clutch plug. One will probably rest at ground and the other one will go to ground when you depress the clutch. If this is the case then you can run the dark blue wire, pin 10 in the H2 harness, to the wire on the clutch switch that goes to ground when the clutch is depressed. If this still doesn't work then you will probably need a relay to get a stronger ground. In this case I would have you wire the relay as follows:

• 85 - dark blue wire(H2/10)
• 86 - 12 volts constant
• 87 - Tap into the wire that rests at ground at the clutch switch
• 30 - Tap into the wire that goes to ground at the clutch switch when the clutch is depressed

Let me know if the clutch doesn't test as a negative trigger and I'll instruct you on what to do.

My bad, I'll send you the brain and lemme know how much for the troubles for sending me another one. Figured atleast let you recoup the shipping fees getting it from somebody else, then sending it to me.

H1/11 White Parking Light output--> to red/blue ING harness CORRECT (set fuse for "+" under door on module)

As far as that wire, I got the fuse set at + and tapped at the IGN harness. But at Stealth Car, they're tapping the red/blue wire at the ATM, should I tap it there to see if it fixes the issue? Actually, am I tapping right into the IGN harness (thick wires) or am I looking for a smaller red/blue wire coming from one of the other plugs from the turn signal stalks?

For the clutch interlock, I might just hardwire it. Doesnt really do much, plus I got a hidden switch tied into it so the car wont start without flipping the switch.

It sounds like you are tapped into the passenger side headlight wire... it's also a red/blue in the ignition harness. Remember: ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS test the wires before you just go tapping into them assuming it's the correct wire. This is how things get burnt up! You are lucky that you are probably just flashing the headlight when you arm and disarm the system. Simply use a test light or multi-meter... preferably a meter, and probe the red/blue wire that you think is it and see if it goes to 12 volts when you turn the parking light switch on. If it does then that is the wire.DONE! The red/blue headlight wire will only go to 12 volts when you turn the switch all the way to the headlights position.

H3 Harness
 

Hey guys I have a small problem with the H3 harness:
H3 Remote Start Harness

H3/1 Pink (+) Ignition 1 input/output --> to white, ignition harness car side BLACK/RED at ignition harness
H3/2 Red/White (87) Flex Relay input (30A Fused) --> not used WHITE at ignition harness (the one that test as 12volt constant)
H3/3 Orange (+) Accessory output --> not used??? CORRECT
H3/4 Violet (+) Starter output car side --> to black/yellow, ignition harness car side CORRECT
H3/5 Green (+) Starter input key side --> to black/yellow, ignition harness key side CORRECT
H3/6 Red Ignition 1 input (30A fused) --> to white, ignition harness key side WHITE at ignition harness (the one that test as 12volt constant)
H3/7 Pink/White (30) Flex Relay output --> ????? Cut the non constant 12v WHITE wire at ignition harness, this goes to NON key side
H3/8 Pink/black (87a) Flex relay input --> ????? Cut the non constant 12v WHITE wire at ignition harness, this goes to key side
H3/9 Red/black accessory/starter relay input (30A fused) --> ????? WHITE at ignition harness (the one that test as 12volt constant)

NOTE: You must set Menu 3, item 8 to option 2. This will set the Flex Relay for Accessory2

I tried following this but I am not sure which ones from my car's harness I have to cut. I understand all the heavy red striped or not goes to 12V constant. So for example, the H3/1 Pink (+) Ignition 1 input/output and H3/6 Red Ignition 1 input (30A fused). Do I need to cut my ignition wire in half and connect the pink to the non-key cylinder side and the Red to the key cylinder side? And the same goes for the starter connection? Do I need a relay for my remote start to work? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.

looking for help with a vipor alarm 5901 in a 1997 astro van, I know its not a 240Z, everything is working except the remote start, i get the fuel pump and ignition but it will not send power to the starter? any help would be Appreciated.