GT3076r too big for drifting?
 

So I have a GT3076r 64 trim T2 flanged externally wastegated turbo laying around that I want to throw on my SR20. I have done alot of researching and I can not find a solid answer and/or personal experience with someone drifting with this setup. I am worried it will be too laggy for drifting. I have only ever drifted with the stock t25 turbo before. Any input on whether it would be a waste of time or not would be greatly appreciated!

My SR setup -
SR20DET - Stock Bottom, Stock Head
Comedic Metal Headgasket
FMIC
Full 3in Exhaust

Modifications I would make with this turbo -
Stock Mani with External wastegate
Around 740cc injectors
ROM Tune
z32 Maf
Better clutch than the exedy street one I have
Whatever PSI would be best with setup

If it was a t3 flange and a set of good cams, I would run it, a t2 3076 is gonna be laggy as shit.

I have a GT2876R with the 4" inlet and .86 AR... it's on a S14 VTC motor however, and it's really not that laggy. I have a PFC for tuning.

t3 or t2?
msglngth

So even if it is laggy as hell, how does that affect drifting? I am a pretty experienced drifter with my pretty much stock setup, but since I have never drifted any other turbo I really don't know how that would affect it. Would I have a tough time with entry, spinning out once the turbo spools up?

You would just have to get used to the different power band, shouldn't be too difficult since you said you have experience.

I ran a t2 gt2876, boost was at 4200 with tomei ponCams. I took a little to get used to, but once you learn to keep the revs up, you'll be fine.

Here is some data on that turbo and a sr:

"*Powerband was so laggy due to the gt3076r having a t2 housing on it. Needs larger housing/collector volume in order to work properly. Also, could have made much more power with at least 262 cams and greddy IM."

http://www.evans-tuning.com/dynos/wp...whpgolds14.jpg

That's pretty damn laggy.

Thanks for the input. Guess I'll keep it and try it out. Any recommendations on PSI for the above parts list? Also, any recommendations on a clutch? And I mean an affordable name brand clutch, not a clutch that cost 1 or 2k. lol

Ewwwwwww that powerband looks horrible. Maybe I need to rethink this looking at this graph......

crazy power from 5k up.

wonder if you would see better spool times going with a smaller AR exhaust housing.. like a .48a/r

That things needs a nitrous shot up to 5k to get it going....jeeezzzzz

ACT sprung 6 puck with Tracklite Flywheel and heavy duty pressure plate. I ran this setup for a few years on my last SR and I was pushing 308whp. Car was a weekend driver/track car. This clutch setup is also very streetable. I have the same setup in my current daily driven SR (around 210-220whp). drives fine. engagement is a little tricky at first, but its fairly forgiving once you figure it out.

ACT was what I had in mind. Thanks for the info on actually using it. This will be the setup I go with. I will be street driving the car so the info you provided was exactly what I needed to know. However, I am now worried that this turbo would be a waste of time with that powerband. Thinking of maybe selling it and going gt2871 or gt2860. Hate to be like every other SR fan boy but I guess if it works it doesn't matter.

the reason people usually use GT28s is simply because they make decent power, respond/tune well and keep the cars power band nice and wide. i ran an S14 T28 on my last SR that made (again) around 268hp and 254lbs of tq to the wheels on a mustang dyno (which is roughly 310ish HP on a dynojet). and that was with no head mods whatsoever. i was planning on building the head up a bit, but wound up selling the car before i that happened.

i run an S15 specR T28 on my current SR with a stock ECU and just basic bolt ons. it has a great power band at 12psi and pulls hard to around 5000rpms and levels off (this is because im running stock SR injectors and their duty cycle is maxed out, if i could add more fuel it would pull even harder). the power band is predictable and easy to use.

larger turbos require a lot more tuning and head work than small T2 series do, but they CAN be tuned to make tons of power all the way up to redline (power that far exceeds T2 series simply because of how small they are). CFM vs CFM, the GT30 wins hands down, but you need to build the motor around the turbo. Ease of use, the GT2 series wins because theyre small and spool REALLY easy on the CA/SR/KA

dorkidori pretty much hit the nail on the head. If you don't want to be a "SR fanboy" (seriously?) you'll need to do a lot more work than just a bigger turbo.

i forgot to mention...when you make over 300+whp (NOT CRANK HP, WHEEL HP) in an S13, it just becomes flat out dangerous and hard to control! i ran 18x9.5s with Federal 595 235/40/R18s on my last coupe in the rear...all i did was burn tire until 4th gear at full throttle (or mid 3rd if i let off then jumped on it again).

before upping your power, you REALLY need to think about what youre going to do to get that power to the ground. wheel fitment is probably the dumbest idea if you want to make good power and get it to the ground (look how many top 15 FD cars are "hellaflush" cause you wont find many). sure spinning tires is great for drifting, but you NEED grip when in drifting when you start making larger amounts of power (you also NEED coilovers that allow your rear end to squat as well, majorly important)

my current 240 im building for easy street driving + occasional track use, so my biggest plan for the car (outside of restoring it interior/exterior wise) is how to get all the power i make to the ground instead of just burning tires like my last car. it was nice making all that power and what not, but it sucked when i wanted to play the drag race game with bigger and more expensive cars. they would pull me off the line pretty hard and i would have to play catch up. when my car FINALLY decided to grip, it would pull like there was no tomorrow, but because i couldnt get all of my power to the ground without losing traction, it was pretty much useless.

I tried to run a T2 GT3076R and my SR wasnt too happy with it (EGT would spike no matter what after 1 bar). The crazy thing was, I ended up running a GT3582R but topmounted T3 and I was able to drift on that. It was laggy but I managed to enjoy it as long as I stay in the power band and clutch kick the living crap out of it when it falls off.

I am running a T4 flanged GT3076R and it is pretty awesome. I couldn't imagine putting it on a T25 mount.

A T25 3076 is going to totally change the way you have to drive the car.

This. These turbine housings don't seem like they were designed for the larger turbine wheels, and have poor performance on 30r's.

Nope, it would probably make it worse and choke the turbo even more.

I think you should do that if you're looking to stay with a stock exhaust manifold. If you want to make a lot more power, the first basic step is to move to a T3 flanged turbo. I would personally skip right to divided T4, but there are a lot of people that have some sort of superstition about divided T4, probably because not a lot of Garrett turbos run it, and there are a lot of Garrett fans on this board.

I would tend to disagree about the power, being around/driving big power cars a lot of the time at a shop gets you used to it. Squat is also not something that everyone needs. Cars in FD that squat a lot have taken a lot of time to adjust bumpsteer and "squat geometry", and generally have drop knuckles for less camber gain. I would say for the average drifter, less squat is better, and keep the camber at 0 or +.5*.

You really cant go wrong with a GT2871 .64 :yum:

GTX2867r .64 because it is the new shit out there over performs 2871r.

However OP should be perfectly fine with a factory T28 if he is not looking for 4th gear drifting.

That is true, no argument here..

laggey turbo equals too much wheel spin halfway through your slide causing you to spin out and or crash. depends on how much you've built your motor already.

peak tq ends up around 4600rpms

Drivability, gutless gutless under 4k, all of a sudden at 4500 it breaks loose all the way to 8k. Takes some getting use to. But since I like to drive mashing throttle anyway it doesn't really matter lol.

http://s29.postimg.org/4r4noclgz/152...08386074_n.jpg
GT3076r .78a/r used on a single scroll manifold
SR20 87mm pistons 9:1
270cams
RSEnthalpy tuned (unmodified N62MAF used)

my personal OPINION, I wouldn't run a T2 flanged 3076 :/

-aj

Not to thread jack, but what about an hx35 with the bep housing can't find any solid dyno graphs relating to spool time. I've been sliding for about 5 years, and would say i'm pretty experienced. never had that kinda lag though.

One of the best. Proven time and time again. Cams + bolt ons and a tune = RELIABLE 350+ WHP (300 on lower boost is cake). Speaking from experience though, an S15 GT2560R is badass for drifting. 250-300 wheel in an S13 with a really good driver, SHIITT..

Bleh. Proven, but old school. EFR 6258 blows it away.

In all reality, you cant compare the two. It's apples to oranges, as the 2871R is late 90's, early 00's technology. The EFR has been out for how long now? 3-5yrs max?

I believe they both have their respective places in racing and automotive applications. Borg has had some supply and production issues, but it seems as if they have them sorted out now. It's always a competition to put out the best of the best, I'm sure Garrett will have a rebuttal.

You have some thing against this turbo?

I'm sure they are both great turbos, depending on where the OP has set goals for his set up I'm sure the GT2871r will suffice.