Tron's S13 Hatch // PNW
 

2020:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6b4771c8b5.jpg

2019:
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Finally getting back into the mood of working on my hatch. I picked this 93 240sx up back in 2012 from a buddy that had recently acquired a shell with FD cage. I heard that this hatch originally came from the Portland/PDX area where the previous owner drag raced it at PIR. It had an SR20DET in it, but my buddy Kyle took it out for his track car. I ended up buying the rolling shell from him with 5 lug, Z wheels, and Nardi steering wheel. I bought a 96 KA24DE off a guy in Auburn WA, ended up swapping to an S13 intake and cleaning the motor up.

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Shawn "Teriyaki Media" posing for the camera, we were out at NWToyRun 2016 doing what us media guys do best ;)

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Over the fall, I did a wire tuck to my hatch in efforts to clean up the bay. I didn't anticipate a few things, long story short I'll be order a few spools of wire and re-wiring my headlights and turn signals. :picardfp:

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I picked up polyurethane side skirts off my buddy Jordan Peterson back in February, threw them on to match the pignose lip.

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The other day I noticed my bank account had a comma, not to common. I decided to pick up a downpipe, wideband, and FMIC.

Today I headed to my storage unit to pick at my longblock. I've been saving this longblock for a rebuild. I really need to polish this turd.

http://i.imgur.com/L3U7Yf8.jpg

Pulled this sump/pan off in a few minutes... really stoked to finally making moves on this KA-T after sitting on a turbo kit for like a year.

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While I was at my storage unit, I dug through a few boxes and realized holy shit I have an OEM headgasket laying around! I think I might slap this onto my 96 KA and tighten her head down with ARP studs! :drama:

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When I got home, I figured out where I'd drill into the pan... I don't have access to any fab tools so I might ask a buddy for a favor. Drill and weld it!

Below is what my hatch looks like right now. When I bought it as a rolling shell, I was told it had moonlight pearl off the Z33. If that's true, I need to find someone to paint my pig nose bumper and side skirts!

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Below, a concent I was toying around with in Photoshop... How often do you see a pignose hatch, 2-tone? Panda style? I'm thinking about do this and eventually getting a BN kit. Sweet rims can come later... Maybe 17x9.5 +15 front and 18x10.5 +? rear.

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The other day I was asking around if anyone had access to a MIG welder, I needed to get my spot welds literally buttoned up where they unhinged. I was jacking up the front end of my car on the tow point and the sheet metal folded back...

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My buddy Nick came by in a pinch and offered to button it up. Took us about 45 minutes to get it patched up. Well, I help jack the car up and pull the wheel... I'm very thankful Nick helped me out and I owe him big time.

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Thule roof rack with big mouth bike attachment went on about a month ago.

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and here's my T25 with 550cc injectors waiting on a few parts.

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Once I get my wideband in, and weld in vacuum nipple (for the wastegate actuator) I'll be taking in my oil pan, hotpipe, and downpipe to Galen Callahan and he'll patch in a few bungs.

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I'm planning on getting the NismotronicSA and converting the KA to speed density... The 3bar MAP is $80 and IAT is $30 plus I'll need to figure out how to wire in the two... MAP sensor needs a capacitor for 5v and IAT needs a weld in bung... I might put that off until later and stick with the MAF.

I love the PNW and it's style <3

Thanks man! Appreciate it... After I get my motor dialed in at 10psi I'll focus on cleaning up the look of it. Power goals is somewhere between 200-300hp, my only limitations right now is the T25 and pump gas.

Another thing that I forgot to mention, I do have a Villains Drift Angle Kit. Nate Schewchuck out of Walla Walla, WA extended my LCA's and modded the knuckles. I'd recommend the kit for anyone that needs a quick angle kit. In the near future I'd like to get roll center correction, maybe Heatmaker or just get a set of PBM cast knuckles?

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UPSP a week ahead of schedule... got my wideband in the mail!

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please throw roof rack in garbage

So far so good kid.

Good to see you're still alive Alex. :eek:

Working on it.

This evening I had to head down to PepBoy's and O'Reilly's to find missing hardware. Specifically, I was looking for what I needed for the SR20DET o2 housing and turbo inlet elbow for this T25.

I needed:

5 x M8-1.25 x 30mm hex cap screws (for the T25 exhaust to o2 housing)
2 x M8-1.25 x 20mm hex cap screws (for MAF to turbo inlet elbow on compressor side)
8mm flat washers
8mm split lock washers

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Current alignment is at this.

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Lose the rack... Even BMX pros put their setups in their car

Update on the KA-T progress, I've ran into a few hick ups along the way. I've had to order a few parts here and there. I've only had time to work on this project in the evenings after work, minimal when I have to catch up on sleep in the afternoons too.

I pulled the subframe out, which wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I don't have much room in my garage for my engine hoist, so that's in a storage unit. I just took 3 jack stands, lifted the front end up, took the 3rd jackstand and propped the transmission up with it. Powersteering lines out of the way, steering column shaft unbolted, 4 subframe bolts and both tie rods unbolted, boom it was out and my KA was levitating.

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Ripped the old oil pan out for the spare I had with an oil return bung.

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I had to wait a week to get a 1/8" BSPT Male, DUAL 1/8"NPT Female fitting for the oil feed and oil pressure sensor. This same fitting that FRSport sells but shipping is like $15, free off of ebay...

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I also ran into an issue with the old SR o2 elbow I had sourced from a friend... It turns out that the mating surfaces were warpped, I was about to go get it resurfaced at a machine shop when I said fuck it I might as well pay and buy a new one. Machine shop quoted me $40 to resurface... well, little bit more money and I got the ISR Performance 3 inch o2 elbow. :picardfp:

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Test fitting everything, I realized I needed to adjust the clocking of the compressor housing. Everyone also suggested to get nut locking plates and ovaled nuts so that I don't run into boost leak issues. I picked up pocking plates and oval nuts off of Roland Gallagher.

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I also did some chicken shit welds to the studs, sorry I'm not a professional welder.

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I decided to ditch the solid motor mounts I had in favor for OEM ones. I just want streetability, I hate how everything on my chassis rattled loose from solids. It's great for the track but ffs I want to cruise on the streets.

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Installed the Mishimoto powersteering cooler that I bought a while back Zilvia front page lo. No cool logo since I bought the cheap black one.

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Fitting everything up and getting the coolant lines tightened down.

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Now I got everything buttoned up, I'm waiting on a new FMIC kit. The FMIC and pipes I bought off of Matt Nelson were jank. After struggling to get everything working I decided fuck it I'll just get a new FMIC kit.

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The FMIC kit sets me back further than planned, I'll have to pick up my Nismotronic Standalone later in the summer. Once I have the motor running I'm just going to brake in the turbo and stay out of boost. It's not my daily so it will sit in the garage most the summer.

Should be back on the track in an Schassis 2017 :D.


I just come to Zilvia to be a grumpy internet fuck.

looking good man. How hard was it to put the fuse box in the glovebox by chance?

Ha it's all good i need to get rid of the roof rack when i decide to pick up rain guards anyways :coolugh: hope you get out there next season!

Summer is almost over here in WA, hurry up.....lol

It's a pain in the ass to tuck the slack and you have to extend all the headlight and turn signal wires. My first time doing it, I'd do it again and take more time.

Last week I finally got this thing running and on the ground, wideband is working fine and she's boosting 10psi. I still have the stock injectors in, so I can't hammer it. I picked up the CX Racing FMIC kit and tossed it on.

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Today I shipped off my ECU to Nismotronic. They will be installing a daughter board onto my KA MT S13 ECU.

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The gf picked up a cheap ass tow rig, 99 Nissan Pathfinder. She went and grabbed plastidip and threw Totoro on it. haha.

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I went ahead and threw on a NissanPacific, Villains, and AlwaysReckless decal to start off the sticker bombing.

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After driving the KA-T around for about 100 miles, she rests in the garage until the new standalone comes back from Nismotronic. I'm excited to get this dialed in with the STi injectors.

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Installed my STi injectors, going to wire the new pigtails in tomorrow and throw in the standalone!

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First tank of 92 is in, drove my hatch to the speedway.

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I spent Sunday at Evergreen Drift taking photos of the Grassroots championship. I think it was the most difficult to shoot because of pseudo tandems and the skill level gap. A few of the top points standings guys got knocked out early because of braking shit.

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While I was at the track, in-between the time blocks for competition I spent my free time datalogging. The Nismotronic tune is on its 3rd revision.

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Did you do any emissions removal on the intake manifold other than the egr pipe? I've heard when you boost KA's you have to remove all sorts of junk from the intake side. Definitely takes away from the "bolt on and go" aspect.

Only EGR, upper intake runners and the solenoids behind the head that are associated with the secondary butterfly valves in the upper runners. S14 upper runners don't have those butterfly's, which I'm using. I still have the stock Idle Air Control Valve, I kept that and the harness plug for it.

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In the first post you said you swapped it to an s13 intake. Did you mean just the lower manifold and you kept the s14 runners?

Yes, s13 lower, s14 upper. I didn't want to deal with OBD-II and s14 wiring into s13 harnesses.

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Time for winter build things.
Bought CR Kiwami Ultra Deep Concaves. 18x10.5 +22 +15

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Here is how far they stick out with OEM fender. 18x10.5 +22. I have the Villains Drift angle kit, which includes 40mm extended LCA's. I have to use a 1 inch spacer to clear the coilover. I will get fenders later this winter.

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Last month I got my KA24DE long block back, fresh bottom end. Wisco Pistons, eagle rods, Cometic head gasket. Had to drain the old gas, it's sat for a year.

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Forgot to upload a pic of the tac to remember the odometer

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Today I discovered one of the small coolant lines from the throttle body had a pinhole leak. I dropped the alternator, starter, and oil filter to make clearance to drop the lower intake plenum on the KA24DE. I went and deleted the excessive vacuum and coolant lines. I used JB welded and vacuum nipples to cap off the lines I didn't need.

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nice build thread. seems very old school too. i like

Good looking car, love the panda paint idea and your right about the Villains kit being awesome!

I haven't posted an update in a while, but my buddy Aaron and I looked at a few cars over Christmas weekend. He ended up getting a 240 hatch. Here's a vlog about the weekend (it's a bit long sorry)... I've put about 180 miles onto the rebuilt KA-T in the past couple of months!



I'll probably start making short updates on my Schassis this year as I pick up more parts. I be doing both thread updates and vlogs.

awesome story I love people who work with KAs

why in the hell would you run a 10.5 up front on a drift car? gonna rub fucking everything. you’d be totally fine running a 9.5 in the rear too. not like you’re making more power than a sticky 225 could handle. don’t cut up perfect quarters just cuz you bought the wrong sized wheels. you could probably sell those and buy some that actually fit and make a profit.

Prediction: you're not gonna run the 10.5j up front. The steering will feel so heavy and shitty.

Plus you're gonna need some ugly rocket bunny fenders to fit them with those spacers.

Thanks they're not that bad.Maybe, I'll stick to it for now.I'll pass on rocket bunny [emoji23] I'll keep the steering feedback in mind. I wouldn't mind running 17's up front.

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Needed the valve cover breather for a catch can. I lost mine. Zach Farrar had a spare laying around.

I'd be buying more car parts for the hatch, but I'm currently saving money to get into a new house (renting). That's putting me behind, but in the long run it should work out. I'm limited on space for storage, even with a storage unit... It would be better to get rid of my storage unit and have a bigger garage.

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Got a care package from Powered By Max! Ordered Comp coils, spacers, and lug nuts. When I have time this weekend I'll throw the coils on...

I talked with Martin from RS Enthalpy and he said he could tune my NismotronicSA. I've been waiting for a local tuner to get back to me since Thanksgiving but at this point I give up. I'll just wait for Martin to fly in March!

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This morning I had to swing by Harbor Freight to buy a 2 ton low pro jack to replace my dead floor jack. It made it a lot easier to lift my chassis.

I went through and adjusted the coilovers to an ideal height. My driveway is BAD for low car. I was tempted to go more, but my front lip is already scraping like crazy.

I have my front coilovers 8 clicks from soft, and rears 3 clicks from soft. I decided to go with what PBM offers, 10k / 8k springs. While I was setting these up, I realized that this is probably the heights I can set the rears... So drop knuckles will be in the near future [emoji102]

Next up... Drift spares, RS Enthalpy tune, fiberglass, more tires.

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More photos, it's a couple inches lower than before. Not even rubbing at this height. If you're curious, the front tires are 205/40/17.

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+1 more for not cutting up OEM quarters and OEM fenders for fiberglass.

Vlog with the PBM Competition Coilover install, a little longer than I wanted it to be. :2f2f:

I haven't had time to edit this, and I'm also lacking on funds / time to chip away at the hatch this next couple of months... Unexpected change in living situation... Have to throw down and rent a new house... This time with a 2 car garage that I have 100% access too. The new landlord also offered to wire in 220v into the garage when I asked about it! I'm moving in March 1st... I should have money set aside for a tune from Martin.

Made 226whp and 246 lbs of torque on the dyno!

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Ordered stereo brackets, CD tray, ashtray cup holder replacement, Mickey Mouse gauge pods, set of 6.5 speakers, and a Mishimoto radiator.

More wheels should be arriving this week.

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I'm stoked these turned out well. I'm going to vinyl wrap my trim since it's scratched up.

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Hey, a car I actually recognize, enjoyed checking out your build thread bud!

How was Martin with the Nismotronics? Did he seem comfortable with it?

I ended up going with Nathan Shiel out of Marysville since I live close. Martin had some scheduling issues that cause him to delay his Seattle Dyno session. I spoke with Martin, he is familiar with NismotronicSA. I'd recommend him based on my friends that have gone through him.

Hey! 🏁 Lots more to come this winter 😎

Just got a pair of 18x9.5j +20 CR Kiwamis in the mail. Fenders are ordered. I'll get 225/35/18 for these and get 235/40/18 for the 18x10.5j rears.

40mm LCAs and 1/2 inch spacer clears the street and brings the lip out a little over 2 inches.

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Another update I forgot to mention. My motor has hit 1200 miles since the rebuild. I've been mostly daily driving her around town and hitting up the skate parks. I don't commute with her since I work from home.

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Devon VanderVate spotted me at McDonald's the other week! I was heading to Patrick Healds shop to pick up A/C parts they pulled off a hatch. Now I need to figure out the wiring for the A/C!

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I bought a pair of Tarmacs off of Orion Dajnowicz. 18x8j 0 offset. I need to get rid of these burners and find tires that would fit these wheels.

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Doggo is spookered

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Few random photos from Patrick Healds shop. I bought all the A/C lines, compressor, brackets, evap, exchanger, and drier off Jim Heald. They were prepping a NASCAR 240. They threw in a bonus HVAC system and climate control (all the stuff under the dash).

Noah's coupe, he just threw on those AG wheels.

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Devon was working on his daily Kouki.

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Alex's blue coupe is getting a new standalone and some wiring done.

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The tubed coupe is Devon's 240 with Silvia front. New tube front and painted bay.

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And the Zenki is Patrick's daily.

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Decided to wrap the center bezel wince it was so scratched up. Not bad for my first wrap.

Side note: I need to pick up the plastic retainers for my S13's door sills. I bought the OEM S13 door sills that you normally have in the door jams since my shell never got those. The Nissan Parts number is 01553-06161 - they're not cheap. :/

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Going to order tires in the next couple of weeks.

225/35/18 fronts on 18x9.5j
235/40/18 rears on 18x10.5j

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Yesterday I pulled my old driveline to replace it with another used one. After I pulled my old driveline I found out what was vibrating. The U-Joint was rattling, which probably caused the vibration and knocking noise when I came to a slow stop.

I can't believe how big of a difference a balanced driveline would make, but my car feels like a stock daily on the freeway now. Plus I can see through the rear view mirror.

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Friday I was tempted to throw my CR Ultimates on the car when I cross threaded 2 lug studs.*

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I was pissed as hell and told myself fuck it, let's roll these fenders tonight and hope I can get them on for DriftCon. Long story short I didn't anticipate how long it was going to take to roll all 4 fenders, lower, and adjust for clearance.

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I don't have an oil catch can, and this being my first event in a freshly built 1200 mile, freshly tuned KA-T - I didn't want to risk spraying the bay with oil. Pardon my Hoonigan Bonus inspired catch can.

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Tony from LCM Garage mounted my tires Friday evening.

Saturday morning, I woke up at 7am and b-lined it to O'Reillys for the lug studs. I purchased extras just in case. It took me an hour and a half to replace those 2 studs and at 9am I decided pack it up and head to the track.

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I was shooting media for DriftCon Afterdark and driving, it was an incredible feeling to do both and have drivers actually acknowledge "wow the media knows how to drive?" My car hasn't been on track for close to 2 years now.

I'll have to save the DriftCon Afterdark content for another thread, I have a few thousand photos to go through.

Meanwhile Sunday morning rolls around. I'm sore af and running off of 5 hours of sleep. I am determined to fit my wheels on my Schassis.

I was really sad to not have my type 3 fenders and I decided to go for it and roll my fronts. That proved to be pretty difficult. I also didn't like the monster truck stance, so I decided to drop the rear a full inch.*

Images below are before I roll the front fenders and lower the rear.*NOTE: 39.5mm between the preload collars and the ride height collar.

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Rolling the front fenders was a long and painful process. This was the first time I have ever rolled fenders. My driver side was burnt from the rubbing (test run). My passenger side fender turned out great.

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My doggo Dia wanted to help me with the fender roller. As soon as I pull the camera out to take a photo of her, she acts like I'm about to spank her... haha

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As you can see, from my test run the tire rubbed and burnt the edge of the lip. It's unfortunate I couldn't get the driver side fender to look nicer. But atleast it won't rub anymore. The photo above doesn't do it justice.

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Above is a before photo of the passenger side fender.

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Photo above you can see I was able to get the passenger side fender to look decent.

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The photo above is before I lowered the car an inch. Standing back from the car it was pretty gross looking. If you look closely the waves in the rear quarter were actually from a previous incident.

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By the end of the night I had the front fenders pulled and I lowered the rear an inch. I only rub on the passenger side, I may need to hammer deep in the fender well on the hump that forms in the center of the tub.

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Don't mind the reverse rake... The car cannot physically go any lower in the front. I have Type 3 over fenders on order. I'm hoping to receive those later this month.

I am still having rubbing on the driver side rear fender when I hit big bumps. I'll have to hammer out the bump that forms in the inside wheel well. The front wheels rub the tubs at full lock. I will need to do some full lock "testing" and then take my hammer to those spots.

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My car is in an awkward stage right now, but I'm happy I can drive it around and do hood rat shit. I will get 2 more tires ordered for my drift spares.

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How big/many spacers are you running in the front? Those wheels should clear with about 8mm and some camber... and not poke that much.

14.5mm spacer to clear the coilovers. You're right I had 10mm on it but didn't like how close it was so I went 14.5mm.

3 degrees of camber.

It has 40mm extended LCA's.


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One more thing you can usually roll front fenders with a hammer and some patience, they're too flimsy to do it well with a roller.

I recall someone recommended me pulling the fenders off and doing this off the car. I considered it.. I probably would have gotten better results. My driver side fender was more flimsy than the passenger side.

Picked up the center caps and ordered replacement lug nuts to replace the ones I destroyed last week.

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Idk if you're supposed to use blue thread locker on lug nut end caps, but today I bought some. Why you ask? As media, I find lug nut end caps all over the middle of speedway. These go on hand tight, and I'm not about to use a crescent wrench on them to tighten them down.

Aside from the end caps, I spoke with Tommy from PBM and he recommended I start using anti seize grease on my lugs since I stripped 2 of them.

With Winter Drift around the corner, I need to order 2 tires for my drift spares. There's an Evergreen Drift winter drift event on the 20th I might hit up. I really need to work on clearance and front ride height lock to lock. My front passenger fender tacoed to my wheel (not bad but enough to notice). So I'm going to need to figure out how to prevent that.

I ordered the GKTech v4 Rear Toe Rods and will install those ASAP and get on the alignment rack.

I've still haven't heard back regarding my front type 3 fenders. [emoji120] Hopefully they will magical appear this month.

It looks like my Auto-CollectStorm bumper guides are in the mail. I also ordered the lower fender braces. Unfortunately I won't be ordering my body kit until after I get my suspension and clearances sorted. I want to get seat time this winter season!

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Found another photo of me at DriftCon Afterdark thanks to @neverlift.media - media guys have each other's backs.

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Friday night I got a my refreshed Villains knuckles in the mail and installed the new 50mm toe rods with machined in spacers. Along with that I installed my GKTech rear toe arms.

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Below is the difference between the original inner tie rods that came with the older version Villains Angle Kit. It's a Maxima inner tie rod (from what I recall). The Villains now sell the kit and the tie rods optional with built in rack spacers. That extra machining allows the tie rod to go into the rack further but without losing theads.

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I brought my hatch into Hankook Tires Lynnwood where Kevin aligned everything to the best he could.

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I also received the Nismotronic Bluetooth module in the mail. I connected it to my tablet and bought the license for TunerViewer. This app can display a wide variety of parameters and also datalog on the fly.

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I also received my order (care package) from Autocollect Storm. I ordered the 180sx bumper guides and the fender braces. I should be betting my front fenders soon and maybe a body kit in before spring? We'll see...

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Tron's S13 Hatch // PNW
 

I freaking love the PNW on days like this. I finally got her dialed on clearance and have it setup for the rest of winter season. I'll be picking up fenders tomorrow.

Man it's a good feeling to drive to the track, put in a full day of driving, look at the rears and say "meh" and drive back home. I'm probably the minority but I don't mind having low HP. I could go for a little more to keep these 235/40/18's spinning.

‪Next time it's dry, I'm going to air up the rears to 60psi and go full speed into the 3/8ths to see if I can simulate what my NA KA on 17's could do. I had a little to much grip when it dried out today. [emoji848]‬

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Looking good man!

Tron's S13 Hatch // PNW
 

Thanks man!

Sooo... Drove to Bellingham tonight. My friend Paul sold his mint hatch to a guy in Colorado Springs. Paul just got his Origin Lab fenders in a few weeks ago... Since he sold his hatch, he sold me his Origin Type 2 fenders!

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And if anyone is curious, I asked around Twitter if anyone could confirm authenticity.

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Tron's S13 Hatch // PNW
 

Last night I was pretty drunk at my friend Charie Touche birthday. I started screaming "my car isn't low enough" in front of the bar and my gf about slapped me. Rightly so, she should have for not making it lower.

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I decided to get off my ass today and do something about it.

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I'm nervous.

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I'm really itchy.

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Tron's S13 Hatch // PNW
 

This was a long week, I spent my free time after work working on getting the over fenders fitted. I got my Type 3 front fenders yesterday and threw them on. I am filthy from all the dust. I just took her around the neighborhood and raged on her to hear for rubbing. Passenger side has a bit of rubbing, I may have to bring it up slightly until I can get heavier spring rates.

The front could probably go lower with stiffer springs. We shall see. The Fineline 180sx Type 3 fenders fit a little better than Origin Type 2. But the Fineline fenders are pretty rough compared to the Origins. I'll have to clean them up when I have time.

The rear Origin over fenders fit perfectly. I brought my wheels out slightly but left enough gap to allow them to tuck under load. Again I may raise it slightly. I just love how it looks dumped.

Big shout-out to my gf for putting up with my shit this week. This was the first time I've done this to an schassis. This is my 8th S13. So I'm stoked to finally embark on ruining a shell. Ive always loved big wheels slammed schassis.

Front 55mm fenders
Rear 50mm fenders

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Nice man! its getting there.

I hope you welded and seam sealed those rears. Not an advocate for overfenders, but if you do it, do em right!
Nice progress so far man keep the updates coming

This update is way over due... Uploading the photos right now and will type everything out on the computer. Watch for the edit.

Edit:

On November 24th I headed out to Evergreen Speedway for the Winter Drift event. The day started out fairly well. While I was driving, I attempting to film video of other drivers but hit a snag when my motor started to die.

While I was drifting the cageless tandem course, my motor suddenly lost all power and fell on its face. I clutched in and it died. It took a few tries to start her back up, but I managed to limp her off the track by blipping the throttle and riding the clutch to prevent it from stalling. I couldn't get my car back into my pit area so I had to work on it in the 5/8ths pocket (bottom of the bank).

My motor wouldn't idle and needed constant throttle to keep it running. My AFR's were roughly 8-9. I could tell there was gas sputtering on the floor behind my muffler. I pulled the spark plugs and found they were covered in soot. :eek:

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We decided to clean the spark plugs up to see if it would idle. It was still struggling, so I went and bought new plugs. After putting the new plugs in, the motor would idle without me babying the throttle... I was still reading at 9-10 AFR's at idle.

Alex Lindsay was helping me out diagnose the issue, while we were looking at the motor he randomly asked how old my MAF was and if we should try a different sensor. He reached down for the air filter and felt a gaping hole in the top. :eek: We found that the top cap of the cone filter popped off and was blocking the MAF sensor completely! After pulling that out of the MAF sensor, the motor was running a lot better. But luck wasn't on our side just yet... The AFR's were still running super rich, but I was able to drift it on the track. While I was going full throttle, as soon as the boost went above 10psi it would go super rich and misfire. My tuner Nathan Shiel mentioned to me that the hole in the intake could be allowing to much air to hit the MAF sensor, causing it to run really rich. He recommended to block it or swap out the filter. I went with the ghetto cardboard, electrical tape, and zipties option...

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Needless to say, that didn't solve the issue. The motor was still running rich and bogging down in boost. My half day at the track came to an end, but I was able to drive her back home to further diagnose the issue.

Since it's been a while, I went ahead and changed the disturber cap, rotor, and spark plug wires in hopes that it would help. I event bought a new MAF, which didn't resolve the issue completely. The car was running good, but not top notch. :rant2:

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Juan

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While I was working on trying to figure out what was going wrong, Alex Lindsay and a few other drivers were asking about the fuel pressure regulator, if I had the OEM FPR, and if I could test the fuel pressure.

Nikki loaned me her fuel pressure regulator and I ran the test. I have the S14 OEM FPR and Walbro 255 pump.

I was at 59 psi with the motor off but fuel pump on, 40 psi with motor idling, and around 37 psi when I revved and held the motor at about 3,000 rpm.

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While I was cruising to 7-Eleven to buy a few drinks, I recently posted on FB asking around to see if anyone had a spare air filter I could borrow. Ironically, I drove past my buddy Guy and he DM'd me asking how the motor was running.

I told him, "like shit when I hit boost" so I told him I wanted to throw out the CX Racing intake (or cut it down so I could run a normal filter pod). He had one in his garage! He brought over a stock SR intake pipe and a filter that didn't have the stupid cone/disk in the top.

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The motor was running decent that night, but I later found out it was still misfiring. Regardless, I drove down to Kent WA for NW Toy Run.


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Tron's S13 Hatch // PNW
 

Casey and I hopped into the hatch and met up with Guy the next morning. We drove all the way down to Kent and back without much issues. Keep in mind, I wasn't hauling ass on the freeway... :2f2f:



Later that night I went for a few late night highway pulls... the issue was still there. :-/



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Final conclusion of the mysterious misfiring in boost...

Well, let me start out by saying this... The air filter breaking and blocking the MAF obviously caused the spark plugs to get a shit ton of soot on them. After replacing the plugs with new spark plugs, the motor still was acting up. I went ahead and did a full tune up on the car as a preventative. Replacing the air filter and intake tube was another item I wanted to do for a while.

A few days ago I went and re-gapped the old spark plugs to 0.028 and sanded down the contact points to remove the black soot. The new spark plugs were at 0.042. Since I'm running 14 psi, my tuner mentioned it could have been spark blowout! The motor the past two days has been behaving well. While I was going over the entire motor, I also noticed my ground wire off my battery was lose to the chassis. I went and found a better location, cleaned up the contact points, and tightened her down.

Hard lessen learned? I should have started with the stupid simple solutions first and move on to more complex. I guess I was too frustrated to think about the smaller details. Needless to say, my motor was far overdue for a tune up!

I'm also determined to switch over to speed density so I don't have to deal with MAF issues again.

What tune are you using with a stock MAF?

How's your fuel pump?

That hatch and fd next to each other are hard to look at!

Fuel pump is good,

Nismotronic, 550cc, 14psi. I'll convert to speed density once I upgrade the turbo.



We all go through this stage, unless you want your car to sit at the body shop for a few months. I'd prefer to drive [emoji1690]




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Mounting the kit on, I'm trying to retain as much of the OEM brackets to avoid sagging. I need to do some trimming and finish the rest of the mounting points.

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‪She's finally on the ground. I still need to make brackets to flare the side skirts out to match the body line and bring the front bumper flares in. Better mounting up front maybe more trimming. For now, Ziptied as any 90's shit box. [emoji16]‬

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one of those chola-proof kbd kits i'm guessing? it's never gonna fit right without wasting 1000 hours that would have been better spent working a job to pay for something legit. storm bfg can only help so much :2f2f:

yeeaaah it does fit like shit. I'll be messing around with it in my free time to see if I can get it to fit better. My pignose fit the fenders fine but the KBD needs a lot of work. Storm bfg was clean install, holds the front bumper kind of. I have to trim some areas on the bumper.

I'll have to talk to my buddy that I want to paint it and get his recommendations.

Last week I installed a PBM skid plate and 10k springs. Lowered the front a few inches.

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Got seat the this past weekend. Blair Photography stopped by the speedway and took a few photos. I applied the filter [emoji848]

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Decided to buy a roof wing to see how it looks.

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Really happy with my current setup. KA-T seems to be reliable, however its running a bit rich. It starts to run very rich when I go out hot lapping. I've seen it about 9-10 AFR after doing 3-4 hot laps in a row. Not sure why, my temps look good. I need to talk to my tuner about these symptoms.

I'd like to get an oil cooler to improve cooling.

3 open drifts this year, I haven't had to change the rear tires once. The mixture of wet and dry conditions coupled with low HP is getting me by. [emoji1690]


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Had a lot of wheel hopping at the last EVD Open Drift. Bushings were shot. Ordered PBM solids on Sunday, going to pop them in this weekend. [emoji1690]

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Woke up to this

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As soon as the Parts Shop MAX solid bushings came in, I put them in the freezer and brought them down to -20 Celsius.

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Being that this was my first time doing this, I wasn't sure how much to cut or how quickly it would cut. The sawzall made this whole process fast. I started by drilling the rubber out and then hammering out the metal centerpieces. Once that was done, I cut 2 lines so that I could punch out a section and have the metal insert taco.

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I ended up using 2 1/2 inch wire wheel to hone/clear the cylinders. I then used a metal file to get rid of metal burr and file in a 45 degree taper.

The bushings were tight to start. Very difficult, my fingers hurt from how cold they were. I wrapped a towel around the bushings to prevent my fingers from freezing and smacked it with a rubber dead blow.

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And then I went viral with this photo. [emoji23]

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Aligning the subframe to go back into the car with a floor jack is a pain in the ass. It took me a good 2 hours to get it to work. At one point I got the subframe jammed and stuck. I was so pissed.

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I'm glad I got it all back together. Tomorrow I'll blew the brakes, double check all the bolts/nuts, check ebrake, and the hopefully cruise around town.




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You just gonna not mention the Xbox 360s? LOL

Haha [emoji23]

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NOTE TO FUTURE SELF: my POS eBay turbo that is a "T25" could also have a TD04/TD05 Center housing AND REQUIRES AN M12 x 1.5mm banjo bolt fitting with oil restrictor. This is my collection of "oops I ordered the wrong fitting" [emoji24]


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