^^^ It will make a difference depending on your o2. I bet its your ecu - o2 combo. You have a black top so you should be running a "fat" o2 and you are running a 63 (redtop) ecu. You will need to swap your o2 sensor for a "skinny" redtop o2. I had the same problem and was using a skinny o2 with a e5 ecu. My wideband would read 11.00 at cruising and idle.

Yea I've heard so many different answers on things like this, I am running a FAT o2, I think im going to just get a E5 ECU. Considering a conversion bung + skinny will equal the same cost.

There is your problem. Try running w/o an o2 until you can get the right parts.

The problem is you have zomg bad ass motor brah! You need a motec !

Lmao wtf ^

Lots of conversations over the years on this subject. We're running a "fat" O2sensor from a 300ZX TT in a Red Top stock ECU.

In this application, the fat O2 sensor actually is titania as the Red Top ECU was designed to use.

Black Tops use the zirconia type of O2 sensor.

From what I am finding, "fat or skinny" don't necessarily denote which type of sensor it is. Interesting. Going to have to check ECU number and cross reference, then check sensor voltage. (or toss in a bung and skinny?) Smells rich to me, and MPG sucks. Might have fuqed this one up.

Nicelyphe, if you have a Black Top ECU, those O2 comments make sense. Did you ever try the gas cap deal? Also, did you get a chance to compute your MPG?

MPG I do a bunch of high + mixed city driving during a weeks time, and i last put gas in and forgot to reset/monitor my odometer..I could attempt to purchase a new cap and see if it helps.

I don't have a Blacktop ECU at the moment, but thinking of getting one too see if it helps at all. It's kind of a hit or miss kind of deal though.

Consult cable should be here after work I hope! Anyone know of real good monitering programs? I have a couple on my computer, but forget the names. The cable is also coming with TECU.

I'm on the look out for an E5 ECU as well.

Also what too look out for to stop my boost creep to go to 9lbs rather than the original 7?

Exhaust/FMIC = higher boost than stock. Nothing you can do about it.

Make sure the CAS is set properly, then get your car mapped. Nothing else to do ...

try checking engine temp sensor, ECU diagnostic does not always detect it failed when it is, but this will cause the ECU to enrich all the time.

Just checked timing and such last night, was jumping between 15/20 degrees, adjusted that. Next may be temp sensor replace for the hell of it.

Make sure you set/check timing with the car hot and at idle, because the ECU changes timing when it is not. Base is supposed to be at 15° exactly, not jumping.
If it is jumping, it could be a temp sensor failure, a CAS failure, a TPS switch failure (if it does not detect idle, it does not switch to the idle timing map) ... or a wiring problem. I honestly dont think it is the TPS, as timing map is above 20° value near idle. But if it is lambda sensor issue, it could interfere too ...

I hope it is the temp sensor or the lambda, all others are costy repairs. Even the temp sensor is costy, i think it is 60€ + here. But seeing as a CAS is 200€+ ...

Cas is driven by the exhaust camshaft, the splines on the cas or the part driving it can wear. I think JWT has a replacement part for the splines on the camshaft. It usually is changed in pair, because, as soon as one of them develops wear and play, it starts grinding the other part.

I see. Yea yesterday I did it Hot and at idle, but I never disconnected the tps. So tonight I think ima disconnect the tps and do it again >_<. It was jumping last night until I adjusted the CAS. My idle is around 800-850 depending on draw. My electric fan makes my idle drop and my headlights make my idle drop when on, so at night that two current draws.

You can set idle higher the time needed to set timing, the ECU keeps commanding 15° until you go past 2000~2200rpm (AND if tps switch detects throttle closed). Not sure disconnecting the TPS is a good idea, it may send it to limp mode. You can check your tps switch is working, if memory serves it uses a switch to "see" idle , and a potentiometer to check throttle opening. I dont remember the values but it should be pretty easy to check if the resistor value changes when manually opening the throttle. Same goes for the switch. Do this check when engine is off, no contact, you dont want power there as you are checking for resistance.

I have a sr20det with a blacktop fat o2 and both a red top and e5 ecu. I've noticed no difference. Still gets bad gas mileage. I'm going to reseal my gas tank and get a new cap next because I beleive it may actually be evaporating my gas cause when I go to gas up there's no pressure in the tank. Also going to t off the boost guage somewheres else so the Frp has no interference.

^^ Actually I've noticed I no longer get pressure out of the tank when getting gas either and I used too...Maybe my cap is an issue >_<. Also I want to run my fpr separete from my gauge as well, but I dont have a spot to put the gauge besides there =\..Any ideas on a diff location?

^^ have you tired running without the o2. This helped made my car run much better until I was able to get the correct o2 (I just went to advanced and got one for a 300zx). I have emanage though. W/o the o2 I believe the motor should stay in open loop. give it a shot.

I have disconnected while in idle[Made no change], I have not drove without it disconnected. I may attemp that and see how it acts.

Do you know for sure nothing changed. I don't recall you mentioning that you had a wideband,or anything to minute afr

Well in that sence no, I do not have the equipment to moniter afr =\. I meant more or so sound/idle performance. Was thinking of picking up a wideband tbh. Would probably help my situation alot. I'll be messing with consult tonight and see if I can actually get any good values of anything.

Yeah... you should probably invest in a wideband and remember the motor is going to run pretty rich on,a cold start

Yea I have a buddy locally trying to sell one. Is consult able to give me accurate afr? Are you familiar with consult readings?

Not really. Imo the best wideband is the PLX. But I am using the AEM uego and it seems pretty accurate.

I see, I'd more or so be going with the AEM as well haha

Actually got to play with consult a little bit..It looses connection to the ecu after about 5 secs of diagnosing :( But here's a little something..My o2 sensor has 0 volts.
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...0/64e7e3c9.jpg
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...0/50a3d962.jpg

Frsport sells a easy vacuum tap. You just drill a hole and put it anywheres. I have mine on the turbo hotpipe elbow and ran the hose to the wastegate. It makes for a much cleaner look without the hose running across the bay.

Ah yea I have one of those, I got my wastegate going too it actually.

Your o2 could be wired wrong or the ecu is not recognizing the o2 because it is the wrong one. A brand new o2 at autozone is only like $60, you should have bought one already.

Yea, I'm skipping the o2 conversion, and just going to go source an E5 ECU since my harness is from a blacktop, and I'm running blacktop everything else either way. I've had about 3 people on here offer to sell me an ECU, then never get back to me..Know anyone?

Also, I did just see that thread with the other kids thread with the o2 issue haha.

^^ yeah that thread helped me alot. i've been scratching my head over this issue for over a year. if you want i can send you my old skinny o2. i have no use for it. im pretty sure the the harness's on the s13 sr's are exactly the same. could be wrong tho.

Harness plug for tge o2 is diffrent. I just put my e5 back on my blacktop swap and have noticed no difference. I switched my boost guage vacuum tonight. I'll let you know if it makes a difference. But the ecu did nothing.