anyone know of a good write up on hockey puck mounts?
 

i just broke one of my stock mounts and im too broke to afford a nice set of cuscos/etc and i dont want to replace the broken mount with another stock. Anyone know where a good write up is on the hockey puck mount setup is?


can i just use any solid hockey puck?

im worried it might sig my engine too low, and if i double stack it might sit it too high?


thanks!

OMG. 240 owners and ghetto riggin shit. It will never end...

Get 2 hockey pucks, put then in a bench vise, drill the centers, stick a bolt through them, done... but you really shouldn't do it. It makes your car vibrate like CRAZY. Just find some used stock ones here on zilvia...

im just worried they are going to brake again . ive broken 2 already with just a bolt ons SR

There are other ways to make stronger motor mounts. For example, find some stock motor mounts in good condition and then fill them with polyurethane. Then you have rock hard motor mounts that will never break. There are lots of good write-ups on that.

like they said, hockey puck isnt worth it. its more trouble than its cheap price. just get another stock one. i've seen one go on zilvia for $15 a pair

hockey puck mounts are the shit! super simple. they stay together find just use the biggest (circumferance) washer you can find betwen the engine mount bracket and the hockey puck and another on the bottom between subframe and hockey puck. works awesome. i considered selling my avid racing mounts to do this lol, and glue them together, makes life easier.

Hockey Puck Mount

I was thinking about doing this. I just installed Xcessive Motorsports solid aluminum motor mounts and while its neat, its not a very usable car. I think the hockey puck mod is a step below solid mounts in terms of stiffness and hopefully vibration

this thread should end with what karl said


there you go fishhouse, fixed it for you



honestly, dont ghetto rig ur stuff, either hoof it for a while till u can buy new mounts, or do what karl said wihtt he the poly, it take a day or so for it, and it works...

Sorry but, your an idiot and your logic is proof. They are discs of vulcanized rubber. They give a little under load and are rock solid. Much better than filling a rubber mount with (i think he said polyurethane), that is ghetto.

People have been using them for solid mounts, probably before you were born... and for a lot cheaper than your "high dollar, performance motor mounts" I could find better ways to utilize my money, than on purdy red "prothane" type mounts.

FYI, we have used industrial cutting boards and a whole saw. (Delrin, look it up)

Soooo Ghetto Hockey Puck mounts but it really does work. a buddy of mines did it to his soch ka. But Im thinking of taking out my stock mounts and taking it to a machine shop to fill it in like karl wasabi said.

dont fill the mounts, it sucks ass. hockey pucks are 104792753 times better.

whaaa foreals....? Well I dont know the down side of fillin mounts. i might use hockey bucks to then lmao.....

If you can beat them join them..:gives: Ill do it..

The rubber tears at the bolt and comes apart after a couple of months.

ive had hockey pucks before when i was broke. and it sucked. too much vibration in my opinion.

Humm? Im gonna try it! :hsdance:

Hockey pucks ftw
+cheap as hell
+solid mount more power to wheels
+diy easy as pie
+they break buy more replace still easy(still made of hard compounded rubber)
+why buy $150 motor mounts instead of $20 and the fun of making them
+I've seen on many forums, other than shaky still awesome

-they are solid, like any solid mount there will be more shaking
-how many people here that cry about how crappy they are, have used them?

by buddy has hockey puck mounts and his car vibrates less than mine and i have stock ka ones that were knew when i did my swap 2 years ago.

i see nothing wrong with it..

They last
work well
cheap
not as harsh as cnc aluminum sold mounts
easy to make
easy to replace

win win

i mean it's not that ghetto.... if you only knew how many lower class racing serious run HP mounts over solid mounts for the price. We run them on our Koni Rx8

After reading this thread i am considering doing this mod, currently i have the peak performance motor/ trans mounts but they are way to stiff.

1.Is there anyone here that currently uses hockey puck mounts on their own car that can validate how much vibration they put out?

2.How the motor sit? higher or lower compared to the stock mounts?(considering you double stack 2 on either side)

3.Heat resistance? will they catch fire or crack being in such a hot environment?

Are you fuckin serious right now? Expose the pucks to some heat, say the drivers side and it crumbles like a cookie. Poly is actually more durable than vulcanized rubber. People have been ghetto rigging shit since anybody was born, both options are clearly ghetto as shit.

For 1 the hockey pucks will fall apart. Also they dont have the correct height, and the correct bolt offset. You have minimal surface contact via the bolt/washers. The setup leaves soo much room for play. with the pucks, the engines weight is the only thing keeping the engine steady. How can you calculate the apex of the engine/tranny to the diff with a set of pucks, and know your not wearing out the joints on a 1pc driveshaft?

JGS polymounts are really the only option out there, $120 and hardly vibrate

CNC Al mounts are epic.. I have them on my SR. I'll admit it was a bit rougher on my KA, but it's not as harsh on my new engine.

Now when I get in a car that has rubber mounts I forget that the car is on (Because it doesn't shake)

Answer here..

hockey puck mount. Soch KA

1.Vibration is legit not much at all. after market solid mounts vibrate more.

2.the motor sits lower then normal just about half inc lower. (double stack)

3.My friend has them on his car right now for 3 years and nothing is wronge with them since then. he daily track it to.(No Cracks)

that's good enough for me, although you might want to work on your grammar

1. do you have proof they will fall apart? vulcanized rubbers construction is farily heat resistant.
2. "the engines weight is the only thing keeping the engine steady." how are they any worse than sloppy stock bushings?
3."The setup leaves soo much room for play" where? I see a reduced amount of play.
4.How can you calculate the apex of the engine/tranny to the diff with a set of pucks, and know your not wearing out the joints on a 1pc driveshaft" because the joints on a driveshaft are made to bend. think of the driveshaft on a car/truck with a live axle, they have a similar construction and move up and down constantly as the suspension compresses/depresses.

don't get me wrong, i don't have these mounts, i have peak performance cnc mounts, so im not trying to stick up for them, im simply weighing out the facts.

I personally have made my own hockey puck motor mounts February this year.
I decided to try it because no one else nearby has them, and i was seriously on a budget.

The cost was around $28 for everything.
-4 Hockey Pucks (NHL Legit ones!)
-2 Big Diameter Washers
-1 Grade 8 Bolt
-1 Grade 8 Washer

I ended up using 2 on each side. This ultimately lowers your motor about an inch at my guess. The oil pan is sitting much lower than the sway bar now, which i'm getting a skid plate from PBM for. I would use 2 and a half pucks to make it more accurate.

Review? I love them, They are very solid, and i'm loving my throttle response(better than half broken oem ones). As far as vibrations go, i only notice mild shaking at warmed up Idle, like 7-9 hundred rpm. While i'm driving, i really cannot tell that i'm using solid mounts.

I personally would recommend for anyone thats looking for a cheap and easy way to get solid reliable mounts. I've had these for a 2-3 months already, and they've seen 3 track events. I'm very happy with them, no sign of wear so far.

If you don't like them in the long run, you've only spent $30 bucks, so if you ask me. "Why not?" is my answer to you. I'm sure you'll like them. Do it!

I have done some custom solid motor mounts for the Z32 guys. Not really my cup of tea, but they love them. I rode in my buddies 300 and I had no idea his mounts were solid.
On the other hand another buddy has Kazama mounts on his S13 and they are prretty harsh.
It kinda boils down to this...It is your car, and you can do with it what you please. If you are building a track car then in cabin vibration is going to be the least of your worries. If you have any kind of commute to and from work and this is your daily, I think you be bummed.

I guess it varies among drivers as far as difference of opinions. My car is my track/daily driver. The vibration, is just something i got used to. Just DON'T have a habit of turning your car on with your steering wheel on the dashboard. It can potentially crack your winshield, or fall off and knock your signal/wipers/hazard/stereo.(trust me, i know xD).

Its awesome when people are like, why is everything shaking?!
me: "Don't trip, its a race car ;]" lololololol

WOW.. im needing in mount myself, and i was debating if i should half ass a motor mounts and just get the delrin ones off of ebay or do hockey pucks...

hockey pucks it is!!! =]

Um..BS. I have used them in several setups (On and Off road) and have never had one tear.... and i have been using them for quite a while.
I just finished an sc300 with a hx40....and he "chose" hockey pucks.

I drill them a bit smaller than the size of the sleeve, then heat the sleeve and press it into the puck. Voila! You can also make spacers out of aluminum to place in between the pucks to keep your pinion angles in check.


.....but don't take my word on it, I'm a noob.

Now I must ask.... are you fuckin serious? Have you ever done anything aside from pick up a magazine? It's called a pinion angle... you measure it before and after. I use stainless sleeves... so if it did fall apart, it would sit on the sleeve. Quit being a sheep.

^^^ Using a slightly oversized sleeve and pressing it in (as long as you don't crack the puck) sounds like the most legit way to do it...

... however I still am a fan of 3M Window Weld-filled stockers. Bake 'em in the oven on 250* for a few hours and throw em in - gives the perfect amount of "harshness/feel", and it's definitely the cheapest. Motor vibrates the inside (can't feel it, but you hear it) on startup/low idle, but shifter never moves, and you never see the engine torque in the bay while revving.

I will do this for every engine I use in 240s from here on out. :2c: