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Good to hear! Okay so these RLCA brackets were interesting. I think it's partly because I have wisefab, and partly just the way this goes, but be prepared to do a lot of fitting and triple checking. Also don't be like me and weld the inside seems without checking clearance first, I had to do quite a bit of grinding to get the heim joint spacers to fit back in :facepalm:. https://i.imgur.com/KUMVKM7h.jpg In order to get the rod end to not be maxed out, I twisted the bracket quite a bit. This helped a ton, and allowed me to not have to hammer the LCA or bolts into place, hah. I did also have to grind down the "seam" on the subframe pretty heavily to allow me to slide the bolt in easily. https://i.imgur.com/l18CCJmh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/N81DzSrh.jpg Click for articulation video: https://imgur.com/ICrxKoe Wisefab with dropped front pickup: https://i.imgur.com/b9DAAfyh.jpg Fitment should be pretty nice, even with these second hand G35 wheels and maybe a few mm spacer. |
Aren't the wisefab knuckles designed with different geometry? Isn't lowering that pickup point going to ruin the built in geometry of the knuckle?
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Got the subframe and Wisefab in the car. Really looking forward to testing this out. I modified this subframe by welding in my own steel 'bushings' aka two giant washers and a short length of pipe. It doesn't give the most absolute amount of roll center correction possible but I wasn't too concerned with that. Wisefab is still a PITA to install compared to individual arms, but a little less so now that I made sure everything fit before welding up the reinforcement brackets, haha. Eccentrics have also been deleted.
https://i.imgur.com/6ecUa1Ih.jpg https://i.imgur.com/xhxp9nah.jpg |
This is factory S13 control arms with the factory lock stop and Geomaster V3s on a 17x7 G35 wheel with a 15mm spacer. Unfortunately the trailing wheel still hits the front of the LCA, but I think with tires the tire will hit the tension rod before this happens. An aftermarket tubular control arm would fix this. I'll have to make a small lock stop to try and limit the arm for now, as I imagine the 17x8s I'll be running will make this worse.
https://i.imgur.com/zaZN65Wh.jpg |
Just installed a full Gktech knuckle and suspension arm package, with the anti squat kit, on my s13. I also got new fortune 510s customized for longer stroke.
The first test drive was pretty darn good. The car feels different from every other S/A31- chassis I've driven so far. Hoping to get more test drives in by next week, and I'll also try checking the bump & toe curves front and rear. https://i.imgur.com/1VK4loXl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/2l0MMYul.jpg Seems like my 510s are most live-able at 1 click on the dampers. As for the toe/ camber curves, it seems like the fronts gain negative camber and toe in as the suspension compresses. The rear seems to have toe in and a positive camber gain (??) under compression. I was just using a level app on my phone to measure the rear camber; unsure if it was just inaccurate if my car actually gains positive camber when it squats |
I was able to do a track day with the initial setup. Based on the tire wear (in the rear), I have a bit of negative camber gain. Im wondering if i should play around with the traction rod to keep the rear more consistent at ~0 camber through the compression stroke.
With a completely stock SR20DET, blow-by, and 0.7-0.9 Bar, the car was one of the faster cars I've ever driven sideways. I could only compare it to my 230whp 1uz corolla running the same gktech antisquat kit (albeit with driftworks knuckles vs the S13's Gktech) |
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