we have wiring service Ka, get a hold of me in private. also I can tell you more about the P. S. . We actually might be marketing a P.S. kit as well :D . As far as AC goes it prettty much a use the AC compressor that comes with the engine make sure its still got the stock line fittings and get a AC shop to extend your lines for you.
Oh ya folks are swap kits are now up in the group buy section.
P.S. good info morpheus

I figured out the wiring, I still need PS so make me a kit! Will your downpipe that you sell in your RB25 install kit clear the steering column in my S13 RB20 w/ using the R32 crossmember? I can have one made but if you can sell me one at a resonable price you have a deal!

Rb/s13
 

Im Doing An Rb20 Swap In My S13. Im Running Into A Couple Of Problems.
-speedo: What All Do I Need? R32 Cluster, Speed Cable? And Can You Point Me In The Right Direction To Find This.
-the Ecu That Was Sent W/ My Motor Set Doesn't Plug Into The Harness. I Have Pics, E-mail Me If Your Curious And I'll Send Um To Ya. Has Anyone Esle Ran Into This Problem?

Take the 5 speed Spesdo sensor out of the Ka tranny and put it into the Rb20 tranny. There you go you now have a Speedo. It should work like normal if you used the Ka lower harness onto the Rb20 motor.

For those of you doing the RB26/RB25 swap, the KA speed sensor is not a direct fit. The easiest thing to do is to wire the RB25 sensor into the KA lower harness. The RB26 uses a cable type speedo sensor so that is out of the question.

One more thing, as far as pounding out the firewall, the only place that you should need to do this is where the bump for the starter is on the transmission. You may not NEED to pound this out if you sit the motor far enough forward, but to sit it back as much as I prefer, you will need to knock the existing starter depression in about another 1/2" or so.

Some people also prefer to bend down the seem that runs along the back of the engine bay, but I have found this to be unnecessary thus far.

You should not need to pound the firewall even with your engine set as far back as possible. I did not need to do it on my car with our install kit and everyone who is buying or has bought our install kit has not needed to do it.

Do you have an RB20 or an RB25? With the rb20 you do not have to bang it(the firewall and tranny channel) in because the tranny is smaller than the rb25. With the rb25 you do have to bang it in like drift factory said around the starter area. Unless your mount kit places the engine so far foward to where is touching your radiator or so low that your engine is tilting down on your pasenger side. I would like to see pics of your mounts and how your engine sits in your car. Also what is all this your taling about a kit for the power steering. The only modification you have to do is, if you have an S13 that had the KA24E, the single cam, then you need the lines from a KA24DE and a resevoir. Even in one of those I bent the power steering line enough to where I can hook it up to the pump. It sounds like you're promoting your shop more then trying to give out info..

Out of all the rb20 I did using the r32 crossmember only one I did not have to shave the dump pipe of the turbo to fix the steering problem.

i wanted to know if the z32 valves fit the rb25 head and what else parts head wise i can use from a rb26 or z32

No, you do not have to bang out the firewall in your tunnel with the RB25. If you do, its because the kit your using does not lower your engine low enough in the compartment, or allow you to move the engine backwards or forwards. That is where the the issues lies. kits that mount the engine high, will have tunnel clearance issues on the starter/tranny area. If you look in the chat section right now, koukiS14 aka henry, is doing a install with our kit right now.
The Syko kit allows you to move the engine backwards or forwards thereby leaving it up to you how far back you want it. In extreme cases there could be a little tapping and I mean little in the starter area, but you do not have to position the engine so far back as to have to do that with the Syko kit.
The key to dropping the engine lower and pushing it back, is keeping the engines center of gravity low and being able to have room to move the engine and trans back far enough. Which negates any weight balance issues that could happen or people can claim.
Am I promoting our kit a bit ? Yes! Why because I feel its superior to any kit out there and I would like to see people doing clean installs right the first time . Not with pounding body panels to make things fit.
On top of this , on the power steering comment you made.
You do have to shorten one of the twin cams power steering lines and run it directly back to the pump. This is nesscesary when your using the R33 crossmember, which is what we utilize with our kit. In that instance you wind up eliminating some of the loop that Nissan designed in the line for cooling. Hence why we have played with the idea for a kit to help the cooling side of things.

you have to beat the firewall unless you use the r33 crossmember and does anyone use tomei main bearings or any like them

lyon, if you read my posts carefully you will see I run a RB25. I do not own a shop. I do sell a install kit, the best on the market. If you look at the RB25 install in S14 thread in chat you will see it. If you look at our group buy you will see it.
I would like to see people do this swap right. The owner of Syko was the first person to put a RB25 in a S14 in the U.S. over 6 years ago. I have been involved with Nissans for 20 plus years. I like to see people do clean work and not hack jobs. Giving out info about the kit is giving out info.

drift its up to the person that does the swap i seen a few that used mckinney or tohat mounts that looked good you can make any engine sway look shitty and the earlyest car i found with a rb in it was some guy in fl that crashed the car in 02 and died and lyon about bending the lines most engine swaps dont bolt in you gotta adjust alot of things to get it all good

Andrew, nothing personal but the Mckinney kit just looks terrible as does the Tophat IMHO. One of our customers had a Tophat kit and decided to sell it because he liked how much nicer the Syko kit was.
Oh ya and on that earliest car. That car was not done before 99. If you look at it, you will see its a Kouki S14 which means it was brand new in 97-98. I saw that on the RB25det.org website.
Gary Narusawa(Syko Performance) did his first RB25 S14(Zenki) car in 98-99, by 99-2000 he swapped the engine from his street car into his S14 track car. There are pictures all over the web from track events of that car. The only other swap that I know of thats documented at that time in the country was the Unstable Hybrids RB20 swap.

P.S. Oh ya whoever runs RB25det.org needs to get their facts straightened out. They State the T28 is the factory Turbo for the RB25 on their homepage. That is just straight up wrong. The factory turbo on the RB25 is a T3.

i ordered my rb25det from venus auto ill have it soon im probably gonna use mckinney mounts im lazy dont feel like pulling out a crossmember if i break them ill make soild mounts

Andrew, removing the crossmember is not that hard, you can drop it complete with the engine still on it. Just lift your chassis over it if your feeling lazy. There are more benefits to the Skyo kit than just the crossmember. You will not have to notch your elbow for your steering if you use the Skyo kit. Trust me if you want your swap to be done fast like Henry's(kouki_s14) and running right you will think twice about the McKinney kit.

McKinny Mount kit fits perfectly, i couldnt believe how well the motor fits into the 240sx engine bay once i installed it, motor is place with 3 cylinders behind the cross member and the other 3 in front, its low enough for the hood to clear with ZERO problems and the dump pipe fits with about 1/4 inch to spare from the steering collum. and the tranny mount, fits A plus, might be pricey but its very high quailty. I just did this install about 2 weeks ago. Didnt take any tweakying or rigging for it to fit in, it literally once line up over the mounts DROPED right in.

and andrew i dont see you breaking the mounts.

Just to clear up a few things. The transmission tunnel clearance issue is applicable to any kit you chose. With the SYKO kit, there is adjustment to move the engine front or rear in order to clear the tunnel. However, if you chose to set the engine as far rearward as possible, at some point, the area of the bellhousing close to the starter will be the first spot to come in contact with the firewall. We've designed the Syko kit to situate the engine as low as possible in order to maximize the clearance in this area. In short, if you set the engine to it's rearmost position it will interfere with the firewall. However, in most cases, the engine can be installed without any modification to the firewall.

Dave, I appreciate your efforts to promote my products, as I know you believe in them. However, please respect Andrew's right to chose whatever kit he feels will best fit his situation. In addition, lets not attack RB25DET.org as they are valuable resource to our community.

Andrew, as Dave has stated, installing the crossmember is not a difficult thing to do. It does require extra time, but the results are worth it in the end. The SYKO kit is designed so that you will not have an issue with the steering shaft or the swaybar. As there are no modifications needed in this area, your swap should go very smoothly.

Bottom line, whatever system you guys chose to use should get the job done. Chose whatever kit best fits your needs. I'd prefer to lose a sale than to see this thread turn ugly. Let's use this forum to promote information rather than products.
Sincerely,
Gary Narusawa
SYKO Performance

http://cars.ign.com/articles/392/392688p1.html

good writeup on how to put a RB26 in a S14. who the hell knew that IGN had a cars section.

Karl is a great guy. Funny as hell too. His write-up is well worth reading. I have mad respect for this guy as he fabricates most things himself and is not scared to push the limits. What happened to his S14 was tragic. Nice thing is that he didn't let that disaster hold him back. If you thought his S14 was sick, just wait till he finishes his current project.

syko i posted a good list of sites on rb25det.org both yours and daves sites are on there with alot of part sites you might wanna take a look

Thanks Andrew. I really appreciate that.
-Gary

This is the thread to Kouki_s14's RB install writeup with lots of pics and great synopsis of some of the more technical stuff he did to make his project run.

#/f/showthread.p...151#post887151

I thought it belonged in here.

R34 Rb25det
 

Just a side not for you people looking at gettign a R34 RB25DET, the trans is a pull type instead of a push type so you are left with 2 options

1. buy a R32 or 33 trans and use it (with lots of money)
2. convert it to a push type witch takes time and effort but can be done.

i found a writeup on racebread.com on how to do the swap, but since i don't like either of those options i will go with option

3. just get a series II R33 RB25DET

Do you guys over in the states and rest of the world know that if you Use a A31 Nissan Cefiro engine Cross member then the RB engine drop straight in with standard mounts and all? haha if you didn't know you do. Trust us Kiwis we know all about that shit.

slydho i have heard that before wont a r33 front mout fit too i do wanna know if anyone has tried a different tranny like the z32 one like most sr owners want

the r33 crossmember does let you drop the motor straight in, however it will not be at an ideal position. too high and too far forward, but it fits. maybe the A31 cefiro positions it better? i dont know, but if it does show us some pictures!

henry i have heard the a31 one makes it fit great aint seen any pictures tho might have to search some aussie sites to find them

Put spacers in the R33 crossmember to drop it down so the hood clears.