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the search feature is a doozy guys ;) |
ok so i have done a search on it but my question is the clutch is super stiff i mean like itll give ya a popeye calf muscle stiff. replaced the slave and master cylinder (autozone variety) didnt really help im not sure what clutch it is it was in the car when we got it but my question is will the wilwood master cylinfder help make it not to hard to push in? im tired of bending rods on masters and had to replace the whole pedal assembly once please help guys
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If I have any issues with my clutch pedal system I will definitely go with the wilwood set up and weld the shit out of my clutch pedal bracketry while its apart. |
I love this thread, I was going to buy new oem MC in a couple days. Luckily this came up before I did. I'm now in the process on buying the Wilwood setup for my manual 5spd. conversion.
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Hello Ultimate Clutch Pedal Thread, can you help?;
PROBLEM: My clutch pedal never returns all the way back up to the 'resting' spot/stopper i.e. when I step on it to shift gears, it does that fine but it doesn't come all the way back up to the stopper / doesn't sit flush with the brake pedal, it hangs ~.25-.45" lower I am not too sure, does it have to do with air in the system or something with the spring on the assembly? I always have to 'lift' it back to place with my foot. T/Y gentlemen. |
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s14 pedal
is there suppose to be a bolt that bolts the top of the pedal to the car? seems like there is suppose to be a bolt right there to hold the pedal down more than just the 2 bolts on the master.. i just did the 5 speed on mines and when i press down the pedal the pedal moves to the right a little
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Quick question, I know the nut on the CMC adjusts pedal height, does spinning the rod adjust the clutch release position? Also is their a CMC brace like they have for the BMC, my cmc really puts strain on my firewall when i push down on the pedal.
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awsome! im doing this soon as i just purchased the ss line
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the ss line i mentioned above is this one... DIF 10041 Auto to Manual Stainless Steel Clutch Line Conversion will this work with the wilwood master or i would still need the fittings? and both of em? |
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I'd certainly rebleed it at this point.
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The stroke of the actual clutch feels short too. Its an Exedy Stage 2 3-puck clutch, with brand new OEM Nissan TOB. Is there anything in the pedal assembly itself that can fail or need to be replaced. The problem feels more mechanical related than hydraulic. Could the pressure plate itself fail? |
^it's the spring. I just built my stuff and swapped out a exedy stage1 for a stage2 3-puck. The pedal wouldn't come up before and that still is the deal now. I swapped the clutch pedal it self and it springs back up now.
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I dunno, I thought maybe it had to do with the TOB but I'm using the Exedy one this time and same thing. After swapping the pedal it goes all the way up. I could be tripping though.
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The pressure plate doesn't push the throw out bearing back 100% persay, so there should never be constant tension on that release fork either (as in, you should be able to wiggle the TOB back and forth a little). What will happen is that upon release, it does push it back a little, and from operation it will bounce back and push itself back a little.
Springs can make a difference too, but obviously less common. |
Ok....hmmm....well, maybe my clutch is ok, and it's just a pedal issue. If that's it, then Im fine lol. I just dont want to keep banging away on this car if the clutch isn't properly setup, I really dont want to have to replace a clutch right now. Because the hydraulic system operates smoothly, and I can wiggle the TOB and pivot fork a little bit after pushing the slave in manually, and taking pressure off of it.
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this whole clutch prob is a sucker!!!
it had cost me time and money.. |
As mentioned by someone above, I too have a walking clutch pedal. In the morning it engages low then once the car is driven for a while it will be way too high.
I'll go ahead and change the fluid out but I wanted to know if using an S13 clutch pedal and not an S14 unit could be the cause here? I'm trying to figure out if the swing of the pedal isnt spot on or something like that. |
I'd look into poor fluid, or even something slightly seeping, sucking air into the system.
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I have a question I just recently installed a new clutch system stage 2 lighter fly wheel pressure plates. I did everything correctly . I noticed when I started to fk with my adjustment I get this fkin annoying sound it's like a winding sound "waaghhhheeeeeeewaghhhaghh grrr" something like that. Should I screw the pushrod away from me or towards me? Any help would be appreciated thanks!
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OK done a bunch of searching and can't find it. I need to know what size the fitting is that goes into the Clutch Master Cylinder to connect the soft conversion line. The used one I got doesn't have the male/male fitting on it and I need to go get one. Thanks in advance
Thanks for the help everyone. It was tough wading through all the instant responses...Whew -3an x 10mil 1.0 straight through whoever you call your looking for a AN to Metric adapter if they say they have them then you can give them the size. Those located in the Long Beach Ca area I was able to find mine at Deering Industries |
My clutch pedal was engaging relatively high before I had changed out my clutch setup and flywheel.
Now that I've changed them out it's still engaging high up, almost close to release. I've tried adjusting the rod from the master so that it'll engage lower down but all that has done is allow for what feels like more free-play. Any suggestions? I plan to re-bleed the system again using the process as outlined in the first post i.e. backing the rod as far out as possible and backing the clutch switch all the way out THEN start the bleeding process and adjust after to suit. |
instead of starting a new post i figured i would ask on here. I did a 5spd swap on my s14 and my clutch pedal sits about a 1/2 inch lower to the floor than the brake pedal. I used my auto brake pedal and I remember that I adjusted the MC rod almost all the way out so i was thinking maybe put some spacers on the clutch bracket before the firewall to maybe even the pedals out...anyone else have this problem when they did a 5spd swap?
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Corect me if I'm wrong.
If I'm converting from an Auto and I still have to drill holes in the firewall then I don't need that Willwood adaptor - right? |
i bought the pedal new from nissan so it should be for a s14. im gonna try and see if i can put a few washers or something on the bracket to see if that helps.
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