240SX SCCA Solo II Classification
 

What you can do and what class it will put you in...all at a glance:

G Stock (GS)
-any shocks/struts
-any front sway bar
-any reasonably quiet exhaust, from catalytic converter back
-comfort and convenience: light bulbs, stereo system, etc.
-any street or R-tire that will fit on stock sized and stock offset wheels
-any brake pads
-stainless steel brake lines on cars older than 1992
-remove spare tire/jack
-bolt-in roll bar or cage
-harnesses

Street Touring-Street Tire (STS)
-all GS allowances
-any springs
-coilovers
-polyurethance bushings.
-any rear sway bar
-strut tower bars-front, rear, top, and bottom
-header
-intake
-pulleys
-front camber bolts or camber plates
-rear offset bushings or adjustable rear upper control arms
-any wheel up to 7.5”, any offset, with any street tire (treadwear > 140) up 225 width
-any stock sized slotted/drilled rotors
-stainless steel brake lines
-removed/disabled air conditioner
-any shifter/short-shifter
-any steering wheel that does not disable/remove a stock air bag
-any fully padded/upholstered front seats not less than 15lbs. Each
-body kits
-brake ducts

Street Touring-Street Tire Extreme (STX)
-all STS allowances
-any differential
-any bolt-on brake upgrade that retains e-brake
-hi-flow catalytic converter
-any tire (treadwear > 140) up to 245
-any wheel, any offset up to 8”

D Street Prepared (DSP)
-all GS allowances
-all STS allowances except adjustable rear upper control arms and body kits
-any front valance
-any rear spoiler that doesn’t extend more than 10” from bodywork, no wider than the car
-any wheel, any size, any offset
-any tire, any size, and treadwear
-removed/disabled emissions system(s)
-non-stock electric fans
-any organic clutch
-any differential
-removed heat and dust shields
-any steering wheel
-weld-in roll bar or cage
-update/backdate from other trim levels of the 240SX (VLSD, HICAS, etc.)
-any fully padded/upholstered front seats capable of accommodating an adult
-ported heads-no material can be removed more than one inch from port openings
-fender flares

Street Mod (SM)
-all DSP and STS allowances
-any Nissan/Infiniti engine (including SR and RB swaps)
-unlimited engine/drivetrain mods (turbo KA’s, bore, stroke, carbon fiber driveshafts, port and polished heads, high/low compression pistons, etc., etc., etc.)
-unlimited suspension using the same pickup points (adjustable control arms, ball joints, etc.)
-removed back seats
-fender flares
-replacement front fenders of any material
-replacement hood of any material
-hood scoops/vents
-any brakes that retain e-brake
-any spoiler that does not extend more than 6” off to the side of the car on either side and or more than 10” high
-2400lb minimum weight

E Prepared (EP)
-only S13 applies
-basically a tube frame with panels that resemble an S13
-highly modified, naturally aspirated KA24 or L20 (get a rulebook for specifics)

E Modified (EM)
-1500lb minimum weight
-any engine over 2000cc

D Modified (DM)
-1000lb minimum weight
-any engine under 2000cc


This is not complete - just a summarization of 100 some-odd pages of the Solo II rulebook. If there is any incorrect or outdated info here, let me know and I'll fix it.

HI, i was reading the guide for scca rules and such and came upon that they threw me in EP class because i had a cf hood? i have a couple other mods that would put me in sts or stx but the cf hood said put me in ep is this true or did they mess up or ? i have another even this sunday could you help me out and see if im getting screwed or if its true.. thx
JaY

They messed up. I think you could run in STX due to the fact that you have a J30 diff. It changes the gear ratio from stock. However, nobody would know the difference so it could be OK to run in STS.

Just a correction: For Street Mod... brakes are unrestricted, meaning an e-brake is unnecessary, as far as my understanding of it goes (makes it easier for you to run a z32 rear brake, actually).

Nope.

Street Modified
18.1.C.
Section 15.6 (Prepared Category, Brakes) applies, except for subsection 15.6.H.

Guess what 15.6.H. says...
The hand brake and operating mechanism may be removed.

The rest of 15.6 allows any metal brake rotor/drum in original location, any caliper, any dual master cylinder, any proportioning device, any servo assist, any pads, any lines, and ducting (restricted).

Interesting.... however I do not think that it still implies the e-brake must be functional, just the hand brake and operating mechanism must remain in place (assuming this means the operating mechanism is everything up to the e-brake line).
Going on 15.6, if any caliper can be used, then a caliper without the e-brake mechanism on it can also be used (i.e. Q45 or z32). Otherwise my car is illegal, using a different e-brake setup, having the original caliper removed.

My guess is: since the rules that DO apply for 15.6 state that ANY caliper can be used, the e-brake does not need to be operational, if the e-brake caliper is taken out.

Interesting indeed.
The e-brake is integrated into the rear caliper, so replacing it with a caliper without an e-brake appears legal per the rules. However, the actuating mechanism and cables cannot be legally removed since they are not integrated into the caliper. But which comes first? The implied "You cannot remove the parking break." (which means you can't remove the stock caliper). Or the "any metal caliper may be used." (which means, in effect, you can remove the e-brake system in part).
One of the great things about SM is the un-written "No Weenies Rule", which basically says that you'll be looked upon very negatively if you protest modification based on a slightly different interpretation of the rules that really has little effect on vehicle ability. If you don't want to rely on an un-written rule, you could write the SEB for clarification.
If it means anything, I wouldn't protest you.:D

here's the thing though: according to the wording, there is no rule saying you can or can't remove the parking brake, since the rule that states you CAN is excluded from SM rules (and so isn't an SM rule and should imply anything for SM). therefore, the clearly written rule, which states clearly that ANY caliper can be used, implies that a parking brake caliper does not need to be retained.

Aah, I see your point, and I think you're right.

anyone have a link to ALL hte rules/regulations. Someone mentioned it was 1oo pages or so? have a link to it?

This Page is probably the most inclusive source on the net. But it's 2 years old, so some rules have been added, removed, or changed...and it doesn't include Prepared and Modified class rules (which likely won't matter to you anyway).

You have to purchase a rulebook if you need more than that page can give you.

BTW, anybody with a '04 rulebook want to see if I need to add/remove/change anything in this guide? It's based off the '03 book.

http://www.scca.org/_FileLibrary/Fil...solo_rules.pdf

http://www.scca.org/_FileLibrary/Fil...inalupdate.pdf

ok so how do I get into something like this.

you sign up and register. or spectate at an event first. to get an idea of the cost associated with the respective classes.

I am also looking into joining solo2 and I know I have to join a team first so that I can get a points card. Anybody on here can let me know what team I can join? If you are interested in a new member for the 08 season please let me know. Just remember that I am new to this and have only done 1 auto x event at the California Speedway on the 18th of November.

I could stay in DSP, except I have fender flares :( Now I gotta run in Street Mod. I would get mopped !!!

I obviously wasn't building my car for auto cross lol

it says clearly that with a replacement hood of any material puts you in SM..

i read in sports car mag, that u can change ur offset buy 15mm. it was in the big article about setting up a g-stock car.

^ i checked the rules and u can change the offset buy 6mm or .25"

Fender flares are legal in DSP.

SCCA events do not require you to join a team. I'm not sure if NASA even does.

You have to join that sanctioning body, SCCA, BMWCCA, etc., so you can earn points in their respective series. No need to join an 'autox' team.

Here's my Q: My car is basically stock besides the f/r STBs and 17" spec V rims -- no lowering springs. I ran in DSP, am I handicapping myself? Should i run in STS or STX?

As far as RUCAs being allowed in STS/STX, take a look at this:

"Camber kits may be installed on vehicles that do not have McPherson strut type suspensions."

240's have Mac Struts in the front but not the rear, so does that mean RUCAs are allowed because they are (obviously) not installed in the front? Or does it mean they are not allowed since the car as a whole IS equipped with mac struts?

You are SERIOUSLY handicapping yourself - basically any car that is not "fully prepped" in any class is handicapping themselves - also depends on your competitors, but for the most part, yea.

You can easily put on some stock rims & run GS.

Of course, if you don't care about placing (which usually doesn't happen during the first year or so anyway), then run what you brung - figure out where you stand w/ respect to whatever class you eventually want to be in, then start modding your car toward the maximum limits of that class.

You may have something there, maybe RUCA's are not allowed. Two ways @ this.

1) Don't install RUCA's - or just do the bushings + stock ruca's.

2) Ask your fellow competitors locally if they mind if you run that class w/ a RUCA - for the most part, no one cars unless you are in contention for 1st place.

Most famous STS 240sx build up (stock ruca + bushings) - don't think this build up is on Zilvia, so linking to where I found it: http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=139581

I have a question for all you autoX guys

I am worried about bringing my car with a JDM engine autoXing

It is currently registered, it has plates and is "smogged" will there be anyone there to ding me for that? have you ever heard of that happening?

You will just run most likely in SM class - no one is there handing out tickets, it's autox, not fast & furious midnight drag racing.

Yeah but I would drive my car to the event.

The reason I ask is because there is another racing organization here in San Diego. The cops hang out there and I have seen people get ticketed when they leave. No one goes to the race event anymore (that is just one of the reasons) but it still makes me weary.

Thanks for the reply btw

does someone have a link to a pdf file with the rule book or can someone e-mail me the book ???

seriously? you just have to go scca.com & you can get the latest version from there under their Solo section.

I have an update for Street Mod.

You can no longer just use "any nissan engine" Since the update/backdate revision, the only two engines you could use in the case of our cars would be the KA24DE and the KA24E. You could only upgrade from the E to the DE (Or even downgrade for whatever the reason) But no SR20 because it was not offered stateside in the S chassis and definitely no RB/VQ etc.

An example local to me is a 1986 Prelude running a b16a2 from a 99-00 Civic Si. It was legal until update/backdate because it was a Honda engine. After update/backdate the car became an XP car and was basically useless for anything other than a bunch of fun.

Likewise, putting that same b16a2 into a 96-00 civic ex/dl/lx would be completely legal for SM.

RB/VQ yes, but are you sure about the SR?

From pg 117 of Solo Rules book:

From that, essentially, I interpret that as the following: as long as the engine was in the chassis somewhere in the world as a production model (i.e. sr's & ca's), then it is legal for SM.

Hey QV! Good to see you here on Zilvia!

But anyways, I have seen many 240s that have participated in solo2 events with SR engines that have been classed as SM or SM2 basically.

It would kinda suck if SCCA banned 240s with SR engines from competition.

If that happened, I figure there'd be a riot, haha.

Update on STX:

You can run up to a 9" wheel with a 265 tire on a 2WD car

Still 245 for an AWD car.

Scca itr 84 300 zx
 

Anyone have any info on preping an 84 zx for ITR Class? I know it's not a great chassi, but I have one to use.

Thanks

2010 SCCA Solo II G stock
 

The 240SX will be more competitive for the 2010 SCCA Solo II Autocross season in the G Stock class. The Mini Cooper S which dominated the class is being bumped up the the D Stock class.

The Pax rating for G stock is also being changed from 0.821 to 0.812. That basically means the adjusted time on a 60 second run would move from 49.26 seconds to 48.72 seconds, an extra half second off the time. It is the largest handicap increase being made, most other classes are having their handicaps decreased.

The 240SX won't become the class leader, the Hyundai Genesis will probably take that spot but locally and regionally we can still take a shot at the gold. Lets get ready for 2010

My car weighs under 2280lbs and is running tires less than 275mm in section width. I have no stock pieces in the suspension anymore, a full aftermarket brake swap, bracing everywhere, but a stock KA. Fiberglass hood and deck lid with no hinges.

I'm thinking that puts me in SSM/SM2, but maybe that 200lb allowance leaves me in SM.

Which class would be right?

list your braces - for all the street classes (including SM), the braces you are allowed to run are very limited. i.e. if you have a power brace or fender brace or ladder brace, etc - you are technically disqualified.

You will be in SM, not SM2/SSM - those are for 2 seaters & specifically listed vehicles.

In Los Angeles Region, there is a "CST" Class, which is the basically "anything goes w/ street tires" catch all class for registerable vehicles (no kit cars). It's a great class for local competition & not having to worry about rules while you build your car, etc.

Front and rear strut braces, power brace, fender braces, shakitto braces (damper tower to firewall), subframe braces.

Screw it, I want more track time anyway.

not sure what you mean by "screw it, i want more track time anyway" - whether you are saying "screw autox, i'm going hpde only" or "screw the classing, i'm going anyway"

short version:
classing should not discourage you from learning to drive your car at the limit...

long version:
those disqualify you for sure from SM. You'd be put in one of the Prepared Classes - EP; or XP if you have a turbo or engine swap. That's the official national classing. You can also always run "time-only" if you are self conscious about competing against basically race cars.

If you aren't competing nationally & want to see how you do, there should be a local Street Tire class (like I said, LA region has "CST" & "CSM"). There's also a Novice Index if you really want.

The strut tower braces are fine if they are 2 point (for the SM and below classes).

All that being said, what class you run in your first year doesn't really matter - you are there to learn, right? Almost every track guy who's been out to autox's have found the experience to be very educational & enjoyed it a lot more than they thought they would.

My friend & I competed in XP last year with STREET TIRES at the Pro Solo; we got our asses handed to us, but we had one hell of a time.

I'm not really sure what it meant. I like the fact that at most track days, I can get hours of time on track versus several minutes, but I also like the fact that an autocross is 25 minutes away rather than three hours.

I am not self-conscious of competing against race cars because that's what my car pretends to be most of the time anyway.

I am there to learn; I feel like the kid who last rode a bike three years ago and just hopped on one.

as I said, almost every track guy who's been out to autox's have found the experience to be very educational & enjoyed it a lot more than they thought they would.

fyi, there's also going to be autox's in the El Toro area starting in March (check out LA region's site/forum) - the "lot" there is much larger than qualcomm.

give it a try, don't worry about classing - attend a practice if you want (more runs); or buy x-runs (i know at least LA region lets you - 3 additional runs w/o a work assignment); get an instructor to ride-along or drive your car (I find both very educational).

I do every kind of track/autox/rallyx event I can as often as I can - driving is fun. they're all different experiences & each have their own advantages & disadvantages - you can go on all day about autox vs hpde vs whatever.

ok, enough of the thread jacking - we've solved your classing issue, anything else can go on a different/more appropriate thread.

Couldn't agree more QV- It shouldn't matter in the beginning what class your car falls into concerning Autox; What matters is just getting out there and having fun driving your 240!

Plus, the cost of just autox'ing for a saturday practice is relatively cheap: It's only $60-70 usually which will net you 12-14 runs (depending on # of cars and if the event runs smoothly w/o any hiccups). And, you can learn a lot about your car and yourself in those runs.

Anyways, QV and I are regulars in the SoCal Autox circuit so if you'd like to come check out an event KA24DESOneThree, you're more than welcomed to. Plus, we'd like to see more 240sxs out there representing the scene.... :D

This is from 2 years ago:

Current setup for DSP (everything else stock):

F/R stbs
tein s-techs
tokico blues
J30 lsd (new this year)
Toyo RA1s on s13 SE rims (new this year)

17" Spec V rims for the street

Predictions?

I came in 4th in a local autox series last year. The top DSP driver has an early 90s Honda Civic Si hatch, sometimes on Hoosiers. Hoping to do a track day or 2 since i only did one last year.

I see this thread isnt completely dead, BUT, what would one consider a reasonably quiet exhaust? And I know bushings must be factory type, does anyone make a rubber bushing kit?

I'll throw this up for interest.
We run different classing under ASN/FIA here in Eastern Canada, but I'd like to know where I'd fit and why for SCCA rules.

S14

Engine:
S14 SR20DET
AEM ECU controlling boost
Tomei Poncams
AEM FPR
HKS 740CC injectors
Walbro 255
S15 60mm N/A Throttle body
ATI Super damper pulley
ARC oil pan
Koyo Rad
Electric fans + HKS fan controller

Drivetrain:
Driveshaftshop aluminum driveshaft
S15 diff in S14 pumpkin
Exedy lightened flywheel
ACT 6 puck clutch
B&M Short Shifter

Turbo/Exhaust:
GT2871R .64
AEM solenoid
Full race manifold
Greddy turbo elbow
3" TurboXS DP with Vibrant "high flow" cat
Invidia 3" catback
HKS IC piping, SSQBV, and intercooler

Suspension:
Enduratech coilovers
Rear Stance tenders
Tein Tension rods
Godspeed FLCA with QA-1 bearings/rod ends
Redrilled knuckle for FLCA 3/4" bolt + custom adjustment
SPL + Z32 tie rods
Kazama RUCA and toe rods
Bings traction rods
F/R Tanabe sway bars
Custom front end links
ES rear end links

Bracing/chassis:
Stealth Fender braces
Stealth tension rod brace
Aluminum rear subframe bushings
Aluminum diff bushings
ES steering rack bushings
Sound deadening removed
Bolt in Cusco rear cage section
Aftermarket wheel+hub
Normal wideband + gauges + etc

Brakes:
Front 13" 4 piston Brembo GT Kit - braided lines
Rear Z32 brakes + ebrake
Hawk HP+ pads + braided lines
17/16" BMC
ABS Modules removed

Wheels:
18x9.5 +22 Volk TE37
18x8.5 +35 Volk TE37
265/35/18 Hankook R-S2
235/40/18 Hankook R-S2
or

17x8 + 35 Enkei RPF1
245/40/17 BFG R1 (r-comps)

That's all I can think of.

Fender braces put you in X Prepared (XP); and probably the aftermarket flca & redrilled knuckles, as well.

Otherwise, you'd fall under Street Modified (SM), as far as I can tell. If you are interested in knowing exactly which pieces (engine swap is the most obvious one), there's a rulebook available on scca.com.

Thanks.
What are the rules on solid bushings?

Sorry if I'm bombarding you with questions, but where can I find some info on the CST class?

Our club has been flirting with the SCCA classing as of late, and I'd like to get some info on this class if possible. The only documentation I've found is this results sheet that lists CST and CM, but no real online information besides some forum references to it.

https://axwaresystems.com/axorm/file...032810_fin.htm

If anyone has any information, please pass it along.
Thanks. :D

don't remember the rule on solid bushings because I don't have solid bushing. You'd have to scour through the rule book I listed above, wait for another person to answer on here, or ask on the scca boards.

CST class is found in our local region site's supplementals - should be on California Sports Car Club - Solo - SCCA.

It has very simple requirements:
1) The car has to be "capable of being registered" in California
2) The car has tires that are 140+ treadwear

Thanks again brokeAs240sx

Does the SCCA put on track days anywhere? Say, Barber Motorsports Park or Road Atlanta?
Thanks

You'd have to look up your Region and find the Schedule

Any idea if RHD is legal on a national level? Thinking of dumping my current auto-x car and getting a s15, but its RHD obviously. I don't want to spend the money to get a good car only to find out I can't go to nationals. Any idea? I can't find it in the rule book or online.

have you tried an nc? it looks like they can fit wide tires under those arches. rx8 seems like it would do good too.

Why no mention of the STU class for us? Am I the only guy running a 240 in there? It allows for up to 285 wide tires if you can fit them, I run a 255f/275r set up and I have no problem being very competitive with the STi and EVO guys in my class because they are limited to a 245.

Probably because the original post was written in 2003 & STU didn't become a class until 2004 ;). Good input nonetheless.

I would like to know what class I would be put with my s14with current mods:
Engine:
rb25det
Greddy IM
Greddy oil cooler
FMIC
HKS BOV
3" from turbo back
stock turbo
255lph walbro
act sprung 6-puck(stock flywheel)
Wheels,suspension,brakes:
17X9 +20F 17X10.5 +15R dunlop star spec 235-40-17F 265-40-17R
stance coilovers
PBM RUCA's
300zx PBM rotor upgrade
PBM rear rotor upgrade stock calipers

As you can see this car was never intended for SCCA but I want to learn as much as possible and in doing so already have an SCCA membership and plan on volunteering in some of the events in order to get a feel for the procedures.

Camaro Tech: Performance parts, installations and race modifications for Third Generation 1982-1992 Camaros

samsung galaxy tab 10.1
 

So nice forum....Your forum plays an important role in the field of our business..Thanks for sharing it for all of us:-)

samsung galaxy tab 10.1

Anyone know anything about NASA?
I tried reading up a little bit on classification for cars and it's just soo much.

Anyone wanna give me rough break down?

I'd be using my pro-am fd car:

-tube front
-cage
-coilovers
-knuckles
-arms
-roll center corrections
-oem nissan diff (from wrong car lol) welded
-built SR 500whp e85
-for road racing I'd be running aero, front splitter, wing, side splitters, under carriage and cooling is ducted. (fmic, radiator out of hood)


From what I saw on NASA's stuff, I'd be competing with tube chassis cars. Which means I'd be screwwwwed, because obviously my car's not built from the ground up for time-attack lol. -_-


Any decent class my car would fit in for SCCA?

Sorry, both SCCA and NASA has restrictions for good competitive reasons.

The best thing you could do is grab another car and build it to competitive spec in the class you want to compete in, not the other way around.

Otherwise, go spec Miata.

Yeah, for scca autox you're in EP I think.

I don't think there's a club racing class where you could race wheel to wheel.

Thats what she said. Read the whole manual, its only 320pgs. There are people out there that do read it, and they are the competitive ones.

Alternatively, you can just show up at an SCCA event and ask the tech inspectors or seasoned autoxers.

If you're just looking for fun, sign up for some time attach events.

There are, but you have to pass some tests and obtain licensing to do wheel to wheel. The propper SCCA wheel to wheel alone are very expensive compared to regular time-attack sessions overall. This is why I recommend going spec Miata because they are reliably stout little machinese that you don't have to worry breaking down on you easily. Engines themselves are very cheap to rebuild as well.

When going wheel to wheel, you have to remember it's going to be dented and you will need to fix those dents. They don't like having car that look like "rust buckets."

I mean with that car in that prep.

Obv there is club racing sanctioned by the SCCA.

haha, very much true. Even if there is one, very few would want to race in a class where budget of $100,000 reign supreme.

For those still wondering, NASA has a class calculator on their site. Check it out http://www.nasa-tt.com/Rules