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The "Help me buy an S-Chassis" Thread

This is the place to post all of the "is it worth it?", "what do you think of this car?, "should I buy this car?" questions. Anyone that is currently stand I will let it stay. All future posts of this nature will go here.

EDIT: posted Kingtal0n's guide, all credit to him.
-----

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n (Post 5756630)

This is a rough draft, I made it to help folks find the right car, hope it helps :D

You can download software I made, for 97/98 240sx, to generate an estimate of it's value:
http://www.megafileupload.com/91o0/240sxestimation.zip

It was written from the perspective of a poor college student who desires a reliable daily driver that will maintain its value in the long-term, and also provide a solid foundation for a future project

Unofficial 240sx diagnosis for purchase flowchart
For all Original Parts
240sx Chassis, generally 1997-1998 USA

Body:
-Garage kept status (Good dashboard, unfaded interior, should also have original paint and no unacceptable rust)
Original paint
-Car sat in the sun, paint is original but faded (still a very good thing, because wherever you see original paint, you can bet there has been no body work and thus no accidents.)
-Car sat in the sun, but was repainted (paint job should be a few years old and holding up well. Beware of anything freshly painted)
-Paint job is a few years old but does not seem to be holding up well. Also, paint job was done around the same time the car switched owners. (bad sign. Car might have been wrecked, fixed, painted, sold.

Original engine
-Are you sure ?
All vin tags in place
Missing vintags in order of importance: (Hood, front support, trunk , fenders, doors, bumpers)

Leaking anything besides oil (Transmission, differential; power steering does not count they all should leaking PS or you will be suspicious)
-Frame rails are good (you can live with it )
-Frame rails are excellent (better than you would hope for or expect DESIRED)
-Frame rails are mint (nearly perfect, no malicious jacking no dents RARE)
Doesn’t leak water into the sides of the trunk (good sign it was never hit in the rear, lights not removed)
-Basically Accident free
-Accident free

Engine and underhood:
All original clips and wiring no modifications
missing some clips that hold down the air intake tube AND more than 100,000 miles
Oil looks clean after an oil change.
-Under valvecover fairly clean (oil is not super bright and clear but there is no oil sludge buildup visible)
-Under valvecover extra clean (no sludge, camshafts clean, no black oil sitting on top of the cam caps)
-No oil leaks (a little from the valvecover is ok)
-No obvious obnoxious silicone protruding from anything (no repairs, original parts)
Original bumper hardware, nothing missing
*Original headlight hardware, original headlight “cut-off” and proper alignment of lights

Engine has:
Under 150,000 miles (2-3 more years of service)
Under 120,000 miles (4-5 more years of service)
Under 75,000 miles (6-7 more years)
Under 50,000 miles (7+ years of service left)

An OEM KA24DE engine should go at least 150,000 miles or more (sometimes 180,000+) without needing any major repair. You should expect to replace it around 180,000-220,000 miles, but some can go even farther.
Minor repairs include: valvecover gasket, water pump/thermo, radiator & hoses, vacuum lines, clutch fan, a/c gas refill)

Chassis has:
200,000-220,000 miles (look for replaced suspension components, check the inner tie rods and shocks)
150,000-200,000 miles (shocks, also check the differential if there is oil in it, and what does it look like)
100,000-150,000 miles: (TC-rods are bad between 60k-120k)
Under 100,000 miles: mostly original suspension parts. Tie rod ends could be halfway shot by 40K.
Under 50,000 miles: very unlikely. Rare.
For all chassis, you would like the inner tie rods to be original and unbent.

Interior
Original carpet is nearly mint (drivers side is almost like new, RARE)
Original carpet in excellent condition (drivers side especially is in good condition with no holes)
Original carpet in good condition (drivers side has a tear from use but overall carpet is nice
Original floormats clean (somewhat rare)
Original uncracked dash (valuable and rare)
Uncracked but somebody changed the dash (original one may have sat in the sun, or the airbag went off)

All visible electronic components (such as relays and wiring under the dash clearly visible) is OEM/clean
Dash is cracked from the sun or any other reason
Cluster is original and works (carfax verified)
Door locks work
Windows work
Windows seal up nearly completely (drive at 80mph and check for rustling) rare

What generally doesn’t matter:
Interior: Switches, buttons, plastic panels, center console, radio, plastic trim, door panels, speakers, seats, carpet (most of these things are available and affordable)

Exterior: everything matters
Original “Mud Flaps” (flimsy plastic panels around the tires) are intact and all plastic clips are in place (describe) rare

Drivetrain inspection points assuming original parts, check for maintenance of:
steering rack condition (describe)

power steering lines (describe)

sway bar, control arms, all end link rubbers, check for accident / curb contact (describe)

dirt and filth under the hood? Condition of chassis underhood paint including hood and insulation? (describe)

signs of pressure washing or strong solvent use under the hood to remove filth? (describe)

State of “everything else”:
Items such as driveshaft, engine mounts, most brackets, should hold up until you would normally replace them anyways such as during an engine swap. Most OEM 240sx components last as long as the engine. The catalytic converter may be ruined inside due to age and often needs to be replaced.

Rust anywhere? Describe

What often rusts that is not a big deal: exhaust parts and brackets close to the heat of the exhaust. Original Brake master cylinder often rusts. Subframe may develop a very slight surface rust that should appear minimal and slight, especially around the output shafts of the differential. Many bolts and nuts under the hood will develop a slight rust as well. Sunroofs in many 240sx have rust also.

You should restore a protective coat to anything that appears to be actively rusting away. WD-40 is a temporary fix but a permanent solution should be found. If it is a bolt, replace the bolt. If it is a washer or bracket, replace that. The subframe and differential can be changed easily as well.

Trunk area:
Check the corners of the trunk for water. Check under the spare tire for water.
Water In the trunk is often due to leaking rear lights, which often indicates that they have been removed at some point. Sometimes for paint, but other times for accident repair.
Look carefully at the seam glues, they are the best indicator for repairs. Clean factory glues all the way around is desirable.

Look at the insides of the body panels (quarter panels) for accidents and body work. A quarter panel is very difficult to replace and as such many accidents require body work in that area as opposed to replacement of whole quarter panels. Often the factory will make small seemingly pointless spot welds on the inside near the center, this is normal. (include picture)

Check the rear light wiring and make sure all of the clips and loom is intact. The 240sx rear light wiring should not ever be removed and it should survive just fine for 20+ years. Any signs that someone has tampered with the wiring indicate that there was a reason to remove or re-wire the rear lights which may have to do with an accident. Painting the vehicle should not require removal of that wiring.

Remember, we can change the seats, dash(debatable), carpet, door panels, plastic trim, transmission, engine, engine wiring harness, differential, rear subframe, outer tie rods, steering rack bushings, Tension control rods, hubs, windshield, hood, trunk, spoiler, exhaust, most plastic clips, (add more) EASILY.

What we cannot change easily or cheaply (would not want to have to change):
Inner tie rods (preferable), Lower Control arms, headlights, body panels, core support, steering rack (debatable), frame rails, any under car damage and dents, firewall, under dash components, mounting supports/locations for headlights, original bumpers and bumper hardware (debatable), steering shaft, A/C related hardware (besides lines off the compressor), rust or accident damage,

If any of that is damaged or ruined chances are the car is permanently ruined (with respect to original-ness , daily driver status, or high dollar minimal modification builds *clarify). Once its been wrecked or hit, yes bodywork can be done, but rarely will anything line up the way it used to, and even if it does, there is no way to truly hide body work from a professional eye unless its all done exactly like the factory does it- Which is possible, but very expensive and rare, which is not likely for a 240sx as the cost of a repair like that would often be more than the car is worth.

4-lug / Base (will be lighter and faster in the long run) personal preference
5-lug / SE (heavier, spoiler, options) personal preference

How to approach the 5-lug conversion on a 4-lug 240sx:
Many people are selling “5-lug conversions” that cost around $200-$500, but NOT all conversions are equal. You do not want the spindle/bearing from 240sx here in the USA for your conversion due to mileage concerns and brake size. The ideal 5-lug for the front comes from a Japanese S14/S15 Silvia because it will often have low miles and large brakes and the cost is similar to the high mileage tiny brake conversions you find here in the USA.
As to the rear, when the time comes to upgrade the engine, a great option is use an S15 sr20det and get the complete subframe from the Japanese S15 silvia to get the 5-lug, low mileage wheel bearings/axles/control arms, and low ratio differential for the six speed transmission. You also get fresh subframe bushings usually.
The idea is to use low mileage OEM components to push the 240sx chassis to 350,000+ miles reliably.
Keep in mind:
Even if the car is already 5-lug, you will usually still desire to change the spindles/brakes/subframe anyways due to mileage related wear and tear.

Unofficial 240sx diagnosis for purchase flowchart
For swaps, 240sx Chassis

Attention to details during the swap:
Wiring first. It was done somewhere, look at it. Can you find it? Is there a lump in the harness at one of the ends? Heatshrink was used, right? Does it look professional?

Intercooler plumbing. Was it custom or a kit, if so what kit? What brand is the intercooler?

Most kits do not fit perfect, but some are surprising. Any custom work should be obvious and adds value if it is done right. A name brand intercooler adds value as well.

“The Hole for the cold pipe” where is it? How was it cut? Is it protected with rubber and against rust? Is it symmetrical?
Is the battery still in the stock location? Battery relocations are usually not a good sign, completely un-necessary and often done poorly. If it has been relocated, can it be moved back?
Are any ugly holes cut? Look carefully at the firewall, and in the trunk area for “custom” holes.

Is the factory wiring harness grommet intact and complete? If anything was run through the firewall, it should be done in a manner that allows for an easy 100% reversible removal.

Check the air filter. Is it name brand? Is there is a clean mounting bracket? Is the filter being kept in a proper position by something (even napkins work and absorb vibration- the point is does the air filter flop around and vibrate on the chassis or is it stationary and secure and straight somewhere)

You want the original clutch fan, you want it clean and there is no oil or grease on the fan or the front of the engine. You want a clean fan shroud with a small space cut out for the a/c dryer. Check for relocated dryers and if so, the quality of the relocation (how are the lines bent?)
If the radiator is an aluminum unit, name brands add value. OEM Is desirable but not necessary. Electric fans are ok if they are controlled by a non-invasive high quality controller with redundant fusing and multiple relays (one for each fan).

check the engine for knock off parts. Knock off bypass valve, oil pan, intake manifold, remove value from the engine. OEM parts are preferable for stock engines. OEM T-28 turbochargers are desirable and add value if the compressor wheel appears to be in great condition (looks great and little shaft play)
Original T-25 turbochargers in great condition are rare, and should be left at 7psi to preserve their life.

Is the bypass recirculated? If not, an HKS ssqv authentic bypass should be used on the hot-pipe of most stock engines to provide adjustment-free operation that is acceptable but not optimal. An optimal bypass will be open during idle, recirculated well after the maf, allowing the compressor wheel to freely spin.

Check the oil color, look under the valve cover for black oil sitting on the cam caps. Check the cam lobes for scratches. Watch that oil comes out of every orifice that it should. Low mileage sr20det engines have very clean oil, even after 2000-3000 miles of operation. Every 25,000 miles a little black oil will accumulate on the camshaft caps and could be cleaned when you change the valvecover gasket to reset the “service interval”.

Look for oil leaking at the front main, and for oil dripping out of the transmission bellhousing. While the front main is fairly easy to change if you have experience and tools, the rear main is not as easy.

Is the ECU properly mounted? A properly mounted ECU is rare, and a sign that whoever did the swap is probably taking the time to do it right (pride in ownership)

Is the Igniter properly mounted (if applicable)? Same thing here, it isn’t necessary but it indicates that somebody is paying more attention to detail and adds potential value to the entire swap.

Is the clutch damper intact? And if not, how was it removed? Often if it is removed, somebody will bend the line in an ugly fashion, this is undesirable and removes value. You would like to see the damper installed and un-touched, because it gives you the clean factory lines to work with, and the option to remove it yourself in a clean fashion at a later date.

Is the transmission to exhaust hanger installed? This critical piece is absolutely necessary; all four 12mm bolts should be installed with the tension pulled away from the rear (keeping the turbocharger from any strain due to the exhaust system). Seeing this intact is just like seeing the ECU properly mounted; it means whoever did the swap knew better than to leave it off.

Does the car have Z32 rears? If so, follow the E-brake cable carefully to see how it was run/mounted (is it safe?) You don’t want a car with no e-brake, or half of an e-brake.

Look at the power steering hardlines behind the crossmember to see if they are bent up. When you install an engine into a 240sx it is common for these lines to get bent up. This is another indicator about the quality of the install, and helps to decide if this is the right car or not; If you see a floating ecu, a zip-tied igniter, a flopping around air filter, questionable wiring, bent PS lines, a missing trans-exhaust mount, the swap was done cheaply/poorly and I would walk away.

Finally this thread was made. When I first joined there was no such thread so I just posted mine in chat lol.

to all future posters;

-be patient, a better one will pop up.
-is that "cons" list really worth it once you pay to fix all that shit?
-you can't budget any 240 for 2k.
-chances are, if you have to post it here to get advice about issues the car has and you can't take care of said issues yourself, it's not worth it.

Keep in mind:

You are dealing with a 20+ year old car. Most of the rubber bushings will be shot unless the car was properly cared for (rare).

An all original S13/S14 is worth more than a poorly modified one.

Hello Zilvia, I am looking to buy an S13 so I can have something to drive to school and also learn to drift. I know that using a daily to drift isn't a very good idea but I am still in highschool so I can take the bus to school when something goes wrong and I'm not able to drive the car. I like the look of a coupe better but I found this hatch with a blown motor and thought it may be a good fit for me. It needs a paint job but it's pretty clean on the inside and it doesn't have much rust. For now, I would swap in a good ka24de, install some bolt ons, and have the car painted. Do you guys think this would be a good base to build on? Thank you in advance for any help.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/cto/5169444507.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by japierdole (Post 5926266)

That actually looks like a great base platform, especially considering your location.

The body looks good aside from the fact that it was sanded down.

Engine bay looks mostly original which will make swapping in a fresh KA a bit easier.

I second Crimson. It's rough, and has no paint but with a bit of work it would be a great car. It looks bone stock too.

I'd say jump on it!

Sad thing is, that's a completely normal price for a roller in Chicago.
Again, if you can handle the swap by yourself or with friends, might be worth it.
And for the sake of being local, at least rattle can it black or something haha

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrimsonRockett (Post 5926306)

Most S13's around here for a similar price have a lot more rust and yes, the engine bay looks pretty clean.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wanna240 (Post 5926309)

I second Crimson. It's rough, and has no paint but with a bit of work it would be a great car. It looks bone stock too.

I'd say jump on it!

I was thinking a paint job is all the car needs to look decent since the engine bay and interior are already pretty clean. Different rims would help too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Almighty So (Post 5926314)

I feel like it's a good deal for what it is. The difference between this car and this one is only an engine and rattle can paint job, but the price difference is almost $2000. I think I should be able to handle doing the swap with a friend or two.
Or just finish the front end to match the rest of the car, haha

I was hoping to take a look at the car today but I texted the owner almost 3 hours ago and have yet to receive a response.

If OP can afford $3500, those are good cars. Good finds though. Would have bought the first one if I was closer to Chicago haha

Quote:

Originally Posted by Almighty So (Post 5926378)

save yourself some time..
http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/5171790074.html
or
http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwi/cto/5167826369.html

I would prefer an S13, but I'll consider that Zenki.

Back in March I had a WTB post up on Craigslist for an S13 and I was emailed by the owner of that coupe. We emailed back and forth for about a week and I was ready to go look at the car but he stopped replying after I asked when I could go look at it. He said he drove it from Tennessee last year, it had no rust, and was owned by an elderly woman. When I asked him in March how many miles it had, he said 135k. The Craigslist ad states that it has 155k miles. That's quite a bit of miles the past 5 months if it really only had 135k. I decided to give it another go so I texted the number in the ad, but the number in the ad turns out to be the seller's buddy. So I was given the number to the seller and finally contacted him. Lots of weird things.

Also this should possibly be edited into the OP but user kingtal0n made a guide in essentially what to look for when attempting to purchase a 240sx.
can be found here.

A lot of that stuff seems like common sense but I think a lot of first time 240 owners get overwhelmed with excitement when they are looking at an s-chassis that they have the chance to buy.
love will make you blind.
try to shake the heart eyes, go in prepared and decide if it's really worth it.

what about this s13

Me and this guy have been talking about his s13 for a two weeks now, he wants 3k and I want to know, is it worth it?
Here are the specs:
92 240sx s13 hatch 5 speed (210k on the body)
Ka24de 110k on the motor and trans
Egr delete
No ac/ps
Greddy rs exhaust 80mm
Nismo test pipe
B&m short shifter
Weighted shift knob
Tein springs with k&w shocks
50 mm over fenders
4 good tires
Front and rear strut bars
S14 drivers seat ( and I have a recaro rep to go with it for extra $$)
Also have a brand new clutch in box
It also has a new master cyl and a Isis clutch line
A new pig noes front end off a coupe

here's the car
Video.MOV
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5b...p=docslist_api

The power steering line is kinked, and there is an exhaust leak, he undercoated the frame and replaced the shark nose with a pignose, if any more questions respond quickly

I want to check it out then buy it, but he said don't come with out cash in hand. He works quite a bit so he doesn't want to waste time, he also told me to come Friday and that he doesn't want to meet twice.

What are your thought

sounds like he doesn't want to waste anymore time on the car whether that be repairing it or dealing with a sale. sounds like he will take the first legitimate cash offer from the first person to go look at it.
the perfect scenario for a price beat down if you know what you're talking about after you look at it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Almighty So (Post 5928224)

There is a quarter size rust hole that he put undercoating on, should I go broke on this or just let it go

you should go look at it in person with some cash in hand.
if it's worth $xxxx to you, offer that to him.
if it's not worth anything, leave.
he cant force you to buy the car upon meeting up with him. You can pass on a vehicle after inspecting it if it's not what you were expecting.

That's just he thing, he doesn't want me coming unless I am buying so I'm in a jumble

:picardfp:

Let it go .

I seen a red one in lake bluff no reverse "100k" on motor

I offered him 1300 and he seemed willing waiting to hear back if he gets other offers

so uh.. did you have a actual question or just posting for good times?

Quote:

reverse dont work. interior is stripped. rust on drivers side floor panel. also under passenger side door. has a gay ass wing on the back. need this whore gone.

seems totally worth it.. lol.

The only good thing on that car is the wheels. If you are serious, keep looking.

It's for dude not for me I'm in the middle of a build

Oh right, might as well travel 9 hours from PA to buy a way shittier 240 with more rust and transmission problems. Totally makes sense.

Do what I did and get a Cali car drive it or ship it back just don't do what I did and try to race every "worthy" car on the road looking back on it I was an idiot . It's not as simple as it sounds tho

Uhh wasn't he posting chicago 240 shit?

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/5179143183.html Thinking about buying this is it worth it? 9000 seems a little low with all the mods.

Good Christ why does everyone suck at comprehension lately?!

Edit: @joel: shell looks nice but in reality it's a ka24 s14 with a body kit, coils, and half a brake swap.
9k could get you something way nicer and overall worth more. He says it comes with no wheels and "spare bumpers". So you know he was sliding it and the aero is all likely beat to shit which explains the two photos from the rear and one of the front with a new bumper.

Quote:

Originally Posted by joelmerritt (Post 5928571)

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/5179143183.html Thinking about buying this is it worth it? 9000 seems a little low with all the mods.

maybe the joke's just over my head but 9k seems low to you? granted that Zenki has a bunch of legit parts exterior-wise and the suspension/diff are a nice plus, but the KA has minimal modifications and you don't get any of the Works or other nice wheels he has on in the pictures.

then again the dude probably knows any hoonibro who wants a 240 is gonna lowball so he could be expecting 6-7k which might explain a $9000 asking price

If that's a lot of mods I'll put my 240 up for sale for 9

The the pinch and cosmetic visible frames are valuable attributes worthy of our attention.
If a 240sx has made it this far with minimum damage, it is rare to find.

Do not use these or anything similar,
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a90...pssm467xcz.jpg

Instead, use a soft pad,
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a90...psuzpmse4f.jpg

These are some ruined pinch welds
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a90...ps4b5lmnxa.jpg

If you try to fix it,
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a90...pspbb4vvrh.jpg

near mint pinch is cosmetically pleasing and difficult to reproduce,
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a90...psgidhr36c.jpg

Next we consider the frame rail
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a90...psa0dah8br.jpg

very good, typical wear, a little abused, damage
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a90...psxtpamaaj.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a90...psfyb3xom5.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a90...psu9aikn4v.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a90...psktqyfndq.jpg

use a block of wood to raise the car,
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a90...pswvsnhrft.jpg

Here is part of an article about checking the frame, from one of the ten thousands of websites that are available to help you learn how to learn about cars,
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a90...ps13g1cpeq.jpg

More information about checking the body in general:
Check the gaps
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a90...psptdz1abt.jpg

sometimes gaps are obvious http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a90...psgntv71ge.jpg

Use technology to measure the gaps,
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a90...pszows4p7c.jpg

clearcoat fading on OEM paint, this is a most desirable attribute to find
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a90...psxydqkqwo.jpg

paint and window seals
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a90...psy1wd8wwh.jpg

The truly professional may have the car with engine out, and painted and put back together again in three to four days.
Find somebody like that when it comes time to paint your vehicle.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a90...psvqkhvgvh.jpg

What was a brand new 1997 240sx worth? If Nissan suddenly decided to re-produce that exact same car today, it would likely be worth less now due to lack of technology implemented in the engine and drivetrain/chassis. There are some who would actually see this a benefit (less computer control, easier to work on) and indeed this is one of the aspects that makes a 240sx attractive to a novice wishing to learn the ropes of maintenance for "older" vehicles, I say this remembering how a 68' mustang and 67' camaro are to some who still think of those as "old" and our cars as being relatively "new" (as fuel infection became the "new" thing since 1983ish, the tables are turning now that our cars are 20+ years old), suffice to say that this does not add any value, as the prospect of buying a brand new vehicle is generally consumed with the idea that it will come with the latest and greatest technology, i.e. the best fuel economy, the best possible combination of parts for longevity (you would hope) and the newest lightest, strongest chassis components and geometries that reflect more generous computer modeling advancement, materials science and so forth. On the other hand, we all know that a new vehicle is rarely perfect, as brand new vehicles often contain many, sometimes hundreds, of factory flaws that appear over time, and again, the 240sx with respect to these "found flaws" or "mileage related flaws" takes the win for our novice, since he or she is most likely to have better success in repairing and performing maintenance to a vehicle with future problems that are already highly detailed in documentation, and easy to research, and for the most part also easy to repair. In other words, we already know the weak points of the 240sx engine and chassis (subframe bushings, door panels, front main seal, timing chain tension, cracked fuel tanks, etc...) so when buying one we are rarely surprised to find that it will need any of these items, which is to say that you would NOT have this knowledge if you were to buy a brand new vehicle, for the most part.

Another view is from a collectors perspective, and although I am hesitant to even mention this, I see it as a potential problem for the future novice who wishes to own a 240sx and I feel compelled to mention it here. Imagine then that a 97 240sx was kept in air-tight storage for all these years, with only 3 miles on the chassis. Imagine also that it was of course humidity controlled, and started up once in a while to circulate the engine oil and keep the rubber seals from drying out. For a practical minded buyer, this car will still be worth less than it was new, since time undoubtedly takes a toll on the rubber components of the vehicle, and again considering the fact that the car is essentially old technology which has been replaced by more economical features of newer vehicles today, make the vehicle worth less as a daily driver type vehicle to those practical thinkers. In the eyes of a collector, however, this type of vehicle would most likely be thought of as priceless, if due nothing more than to the fact of such limited production numbers. Once we consider the production numbers as an important statistic, and then consider the lives many of these cars have lived (drifting and motor sports and accidents) even the most non-collector type individual may start to wonder about the supply and demand aspect of such vehicles. A quick glance around the classifieds will further demonstrate that finding a 97 240sx in original condition, listed for blue-book type prices, is already nearly impossible, that is to say that there is definitely some influence in our minds as to how rare the chassis has become, and the idea is shared easily even to those who may know very little about the 240sx, and unfortunately has caused a significant rise in price (at least posted prices) for cars that do not deserve such attention. That is, the collector's view of increased value only applies to those very few extremely rare examples of 240sx which still maintain mostly original components, including paint and body. An added bonus is given to vehicles with exceptionally low mileage, since this adds years of actual service life from an engine which is known to be reliable. Any 240sx that has been painted is instantly disqualified from a value increase due to rarity/original parts, if only for the fact that body work can hide accidents (a skilled body professional might still be interested in such vehicles for racing or show purposes). Any 240sx whos engine has been swapped, even back to the same model, is also disqualified, since engine work can rarely be relied upon (where a skilled mechanically inclined professional may be interested in the chassis as a blank canvas). With these distinctions in mind, let us consider some examples to help get things right.

First I will define the two extremes of pricing for these cars.
On the practical side, there is "what I would be willing to pay for this". And on the high side, is "market price", that is to say, the price one would pay if he or she has no time to devote to finding the best deal, and simply buys the first one seen that meets the criterion. The market price is typically listed in the for sale ads, it is directly dictated (for the 240sx) by the idea that the vehicle is rare (often misguided as we will see).

Example 1:
1997 Nissan 240sx
original paint, automatic, clean chassis, no rust, clean carfax, 50,000 miles, garage kept (9.5/10 interior), 5-lug SE, runs great
What I would be willing to pay for this: $5500-$7000
market price: $10000-$12000
note: Here the value is with mileage and original paint, vehicle will have all vin tags and no accidents, perfectly aligned and never removed bumpers and headlights, all original foam padding and wiring clips intact, etc...

example 2:
1997 Nissan 240sx
automatic, clean chassis, no rust, clean carfax, 130,000 miles, garage kept (9.5/10 interior), 5-lug SE, runs great, FRESH PAINT
What I would be willing to pay for this: $4000-$5000
Market price: $8000-$9000
note: Here market price is artificially high due to the misguided idea that this car is rare. Although the mileage is reasonable, the fresh paint is more often than not hiding details. These cars often have other distinguishable, undesirable features (it is rare to find ONLY fresh paint when it is present. There is often some other important de-railing feature, such as a missing vin tag, or an aftermarket pair of headlights, or misalignment of bumpers, etc...) however if it turns out the paint/body was done professionally, and the cosmetic chassis features we discussed are intact, it could still be a worthy vehicle.

example 3:
1997 Nissan 240sx
automatic, clean carfax, 205,000 miles, garage kept (9/10 interior), 5-lug SE, runs great, FRESH PAINT, original engine
What I would be willing to pay for this: $3600-$4500
Market price: $5000-$6500
note: Here we see the sellers are mostly aware of the mileage as a distinguishable feature that lowers price, as an engine swap is coming soon.

average price 97/98 models is $4400 (automatic 97 factory)
average price 95/96 models is $2900 (automatic 95 factory)

Let us stop now and remember what is truly important on these cars, in my opinion it is what you hope for the most, but will live with what you are given anyways. It isn't the interior pieces, although they hold some value, they are easily replaced. It isn't the engine in the car, although some engines are worth more than others, they are also easily replaced. The real value of a 240sx is in its chassis, that part of the car that IS the car, that cannot be simply unbolted and replaced whenever one wishes to do so. Specifically, the underside, contains cosmetic features such as frame rails and pinch welds, but these are only a small part of a whole car which can be deformed. It is true that I have come to appreciate such small details as the alignment of the headlights, the gaps between the bumpers and fenders and hood, the foam padding around the wiring loop with it's factory placement and brittle clips. I have come to value many small details as the clean unscathed seam glues in the trunk, and on the floors, an original ECU bracket intact and doing it's job, an untouched steering column where wires and relays have not been crammed above the clutch pedal where you constantly rub them with feet. In short, there is much more to a 240sx being valued than simply one set of cosmetic features. I would rather own a car where the wiring has never been altered than perhaps anything else now that I think about it. This is because different folks have different ideas of what is acceptable when it comes to these details, and I prefer to be the first one to make such modifications if there are to be any. Again this re-calls the classic notion that "collectors" do not really exist for the 240sx; only those individuals who desire specific traits, which vary from example to example, and will pay for them given the opportunity to seize the proper model. That is to say, my idea of a perfect 240 is not your idea of one.

^ they should just link your original thread.

but for reals if you dudes have questions, kingtal0n has the patience to talk to you. and the knowledge.

Quote:

Originally Posted by joelmerritt (Post 5928571)

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/5179143183.html Thinking about buying this is it worth it? 9000 seems a little low with all the mods.

That car looks good, I'm not a fan of the fact that the front and rear wheels are different but that's just my opinion. I'd offer him 5 grand and go up from there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lucas240 (Post 5931281)

https://delaware.craigslist.org/cto/5130912532.html

Is this 240 worth the 3500

If you look car fully in the pictures, the body is all dented and has a lot of ripples. It also needs a new turbo. It's ok, maybe get him down to $3000 if you really want that car. I would find a clean s13 and build it myself so that you aren't running the risk of buying someone else's major project. You have no idea if that sr20 swap was done correctly.

Just another kid lookin for a 240. Been looking for a Kouki with a motor swap and came across this. http://hartford.craigslist.org/cto/5160293709.html (He sent me more pics idk how to upload though) said car needs ac relay relocation for ac (ik most swaps don't have ac) alignment, speedo & paint job. Has full interior and mod list is there. 150k on body 30k on motor (so he says). Swap was done by a professional shop. He told me $8500 on a stock set of wheels and it's mine. Wondering if that's a bad price & if I were to go look at it what to search for. (If I can figure out how to load pics I will lol)

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/5133980067.html

Alright, I think I found a 240 I finally am going to get, I want to know if this price is reasonable, this guy is 1h 43mins away, is it worth the drive or should I have him drive half way so that shows the car is mechanically stable, the guy wants to turn his 350z into a drift toy and is going to use the money towards that. Anymore questions just ask, it's registered and insured.

So the question is..

Is it worth it?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240Chriss (Post 5931362)

Looks solid, but that's one pic, I would like to see pics of the engine bay, wheels wells, etc

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lucas240 (Post 5931916)

The info is very limited. No mention of the engine or pics of it. There are boost gauges which means it is turbo unless seller is a huge ricer lol. Looks okay in my opinion. Not worth $4000 though.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wanna240 (Post 5931921)

The info is very limited. No mention of the engine or pics of it. There are boost gauges which means it is turbo unless seller is a huge ricer lol. Looks okay in my opinion. Not worth $4000 though.

yes there is a turbo, he is running 11 pounds, (turbo isnt aftermarket) he street drifts it, I asked him for engine bay pics and he said he will send them tomorrow, the title is clean and such. It's somewhere around 300hp

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lucas240 (Post 5931917)

Looks solid, but that's one pic, I would like to see pics of the engine bay, wheels wells, etc

http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ch...?sort=3&page=1 Hope that works and he said no rust anywhere asked that earlier today

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lucas240 (Post 5931917)

Looks solid, but that's one pic, I would like to see pics of the engine bay, wheels wells, etc

http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ch...?sort=3&page=1 On phone so unsure if I double posted this or if that will work & he says no rust anywhere on it

updated og post with Kingtal0n's guide

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lucas240 (Post 5931917)

Looks solid, but that's one pic, I would like to see pics of the engine bay, wheels wells, etc

http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ch...?sort=3&page=1 He said no rust whatsoever

http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ch...?sort=3&page=1 & no rust... This is like my 3rd time trying to post this and it's not working

Will my post ever work on here ?

http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ch...?sort=3&page=1

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http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/5193747440.html

So the other 240 didn't work out.. this one seems good but it has a bad oil pump, the mods are on the ad, the dude had the 240 for a while, but then the oil pump stopped working and it's been sitting for 2 months, the turbo seals were replaced last year along with the turbo manifold, more info when asked,

Is it Worth it

If he continued to drive it there's a possibility internals are scarred another thing to ask him is if the oil pan is dented or if he took a hard hit prior to noticing the pressure drop

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lucas240 (Post 5933331)

Garbage.

If you have to ask if it's worth it to buy a molested and busted 240, then it's not.

It's not that bad body wise, but if the sr20 is ruined then it's not worth $3500.

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Ok I am in the market for a 240 finally. I have 4000 dollars and I found a clean 97 Automatic for 3500. The problem is it doesn't have a title and hasn't had a title through 2 previous owners. It's also out of state for me. If I trailer it home how hard is it going to be to get a new title issued? Is this a pipe dream?

Quote:

Originally Posted by StruckANerve (Post 5933374)

How is it legal if it doesn't have a title? Automatic most likely means it hasn't been abused, so that's good. If you upload pics it would give me a better idea of the car.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by StruckANerve (Post 5933374)

More like a splitting headache.

Call your state's dmv and find out.

Here's the ad for it. It seems like an awesome deal besides the title issues.

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/cto/5165757721.html

Hmm. He says it wasn't reported to have flood damage, but that doesn't mean it doesn't have flood damage. Go look at it and inspect it carefully. If it doesn't have flood damage and you are up for getting it a title, I'd say jump on it.

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Well a VIN check said the vehicle was declared a total loss in April of 97. Brand spankin new and a total loss? Something pretty bad must have happened.

Yeah, something's fishy. I'd say keep looking.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 240Chriss (Post 5933717)

http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/cto/5195319333.html what would you offer ?

It's on New York CL but got FL plates that's already a weird flag did it break down on the way ? Is that why he wants to get rid of it..? If I relocate and bring my car with its because I want to keep it ! If he didn't want it he would have sold it prior and if he couldn't sell it then what was wrong with it? And what did it say 45k on the swap!? Haha with a license plate like that I'm sure there's way more mileage then that .. it has some fair parts but i personally think it's not worth an offer that won't insult the guy

The "Help me buy an S-Chassis" Thread

^ agreed. I'd offer him 5k and don't go above 7k

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I wouldnt go above $7k for that orange one

I need a s13 coupe(hardtop) shell or working car!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by wanna240 (Post 5933794)

^ agreed. I'd offer him 8k and don't go above 10k

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Trying to be as nice as I can about this, but coming from someone who posted up this:

#/f/showthread.php?t=607672

Hard to take advice from ya.

That orange S14 is worth $6-7k on a good day.

Reason being, it's a Zenki (see what a Zenki shell is going for), the swap doesn't really add value to it unfortunately, and the only thing it really has going for it is the front end and coilovers.

Doing basic math, you can build a similar S14 to your liking for less than $10k.

^ yeah, that was the first s14 I looked at, I'm glad I didn't get it. I do not have very much experience with prices, that was my estimate. I will edit my OP with the price range you said. Thanks.

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http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/cto/5150035360.html I know 15k is rape and wouldn't pay that no matter what but what is a solid price for this? Idc if it's not a steal I just don't wanna overpay would rather wait & I know I keep posting these lmaoo sorry I'm new

That's pretty outrageous think of what 15 k could really get you don't even offer anything you'll be wasting your time ... Keep looking or if u have a fair amount of cash get a clean shell and build to your liking

Would like to do that cause then I'd really know the car but hard to do so without anywhere to do it & without all the equipment and knowledge to do it all

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240Chriss (Post 5935034)

Would like to do that cause then I'd really know the car but hard to do so without anywhere to do it & without all the equipment and knowledge to do it all

thats why you have zilvia youll figure it all out along the way

The 2J swap has now become plug and play like most other swaps. Wiring, mounting kits, intercooler kits etc. are all bolt in now. $15k is ridiculous for that. I had a bit more in my setup before selling but had parts supporting 800+rwhp.

if you are interested in an S14-LSX (5.3) project that's missing a few components to be turn key check out my thread. I will be back in NY in Sept for business for a few days and very motivated to sell as a complete package.
#/f/showthread.php?t=610904

Quote:

Originally Posted by supersayianjim (Post 5933955)

I need a s13 coupe(hardtop) shell or working car!!!

I'm highlighting this post to say this is NOT what this thread is for. No WTB. This is for help in purchasing an S-Chassis only.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240Chriss (Post 5935013)

7.500-9,000 maybe...

The "Help me buy an S-Chassis" Thread

Car is sold.

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http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/cto/5176684889.html Is this worth 8k? Clean swap & didn't hear or see anything wrong with it when driving. Didn't see any rust. Only concern was clutch let out high was curious if that was bad or not. Overall when I checked it out, it seemed clean, clean interior, motor didn't sound bad. Told the guy $7500 and he said $8k no lower. What do you guys think?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240Chriss (Post 5940862)

Looks to be worth 8k. I'd say go for it.

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New to 240s and S-chassis but this post has me really interested.
What do you guys think?
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2749082
What questions should i ask him?
Any help will be appreciated.

Hello I'm new around here and I'm wonder if you guys think the car is worth 2.5k or maybe a little lower, ad says that 5th and reverse don't work so I'm assuming it might need a rebuild tranny. Not a lot of info in the add so seems a little sketchy going to try to see if I can get more info from the seller.Thanks in advance.http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/5261381452.html

Hello everyone. I just registered and I've been looking at 240s for a few weeks now and found one that I'm pretty interested in. It is a 1989 hatchback with 208,9xx miles on it and mechanically sound(so the owner says) and has very little rust. It is a 5spd with grey paint that seems to be in pretty good shape. He mentioned to me that it has been almost always garage kept. The car looks very clean including the engine bay and the engine. It is also completely 100% stock. He is asking $2,500 for it and I will be going to see it this Saturday. What do you guys think so far?

Sounds like a good deal for $2,500 if the body is straight.

From the pictures the body looks really well and probably one of the best I've seen. Unfortunately, I know that photos can be very deceptive. I will be test driving it on Saturday when I go look at it and I'm still doing all my research for what I should check and pay attention to. This forum has a lot of info and it's helped me out a lot so far. Hopefully soon I will be posting about a 240sx I bought.

$2500 is a good deal but like TheRealSy90 said if the body is straight. If you don't know what you're looking at take a friend. My only issue is the "very little rust" that sounds like it could be a can of worms. For you my biggest concern would be frame rails and floor pan, the stuff that everyone overlooks. Take the two extra seconds get a little dirt on your jeans and check it out

Yeah he told me that the only area with rust is behind the rear wheels. I will definitely be checking the frame rails when I go check it out. Thanks for the advice so far.

whats the stuff that you paint on the frame rails and the under carriage to prevent further rust.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Malik (Post 5961474)

whats the stuff that you paint on the frame rails and the under carriage to prevent further rust.

por-15, some also use truck bed liner.

Should I buy this s13 http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/5320700937.html
I have limited info on it, the buyer wants nothing less than 4500. Do you guys think it would be a good idea or should I walk, I will provide more info when I know what you guys want to know about it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lucas240 (Post 5978157)

$4500 for a stock 240sx. No f***ing way. At least, not that one. Wait and find another. That's my opinion.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bleakley (Post 5978194)

$4500 for a stock 240sx. No f***ing way. At least, not that one. Wait and find another. That's my opinion.

It's not extremely overpriced, but the parts on it don't necessarily add too much value.

$3,000-$3,500 would make this a decent deal.