help coolent bleeder screw snaped
 

ok so i was trying to bleed my coolent and my bleeder screw broke wen u tried to loosen it . is it safe to drill it so it can break off? THEY TOLD ME IT CAN STILL BE BLEED WIT THE BLEEDER STILL CLOSED AND JUST THE RAD CAP OFF, CAN IT??? SO I CAN TRY IT AND NOT WASTE MY TIME LOL
is it safe to do it or is there somthing on the bottom that my be in the way?
ir will it just go thru so i can go try it, also wondering if they sell those screws at a auto zone so i can go?
if any one know a step by step on how to remove/fix it let me know so i dont ef up, thanks
ka24de dohc motor

damn dude this really isnt your week haha. did just the head break off of it?iim sure you can get an ez out for it. but DONT let any metal get into there because that will jsut make problems.
it sounds like you have some pretty bad air bubbles in your system i had the same problem with my car. i have also heard that KADE's are jsut stupid with the air pockets.
do this man. open the rad cap let the car idle for a while just let the car run through many cycles every min or so rev it at like 2k. for like 15 sec. repeat many times. have water to put into the rad.. what your going to see is it jsut spitting the air out when that happens just put more water in jsut repeat till it doesnt do that anymore. if you need more help jsut reply to this thread or PM me

yeah man just the head of the screw came out lol, and yeah i was trippin out wen i changed all and still it was heating up and yeah not my week i been car less for 2 weeks lol and i figured i did somthing wrong wit coolent ,
i was thinking of draining coolent and then remove upper hose and drill out that screw then clean any left over chunks from the upper hose area????
thanks for the help too :squintd:

so my plan is to drill thru to so it can break off and be free, but i think chunks will fall thru,i was thinking of flushing it out from the top radiator part
like let it run and let coolent/water pump out the chunks
will that work???????
if so let me know so i can do that..............or maybe a magnet to collect the chunks of screw

i've snapped one myself. fwiw i could NOT get that sucker out with an ezout.

one option is to just leave it in there (i assume it's still watertight), and bleed the coolant by raising the nose of the car and running it with the radiator cap off. car will bleed fine.

i would personally take the manifold off if you're deadset on drilling it out. i suspect it's not totally necessary, but getting the manifold off isn't much more work once you've disconnected the coolant hoses and drained the coolant system anyway.

its still tight in there it broke off right away it didnt not twist at all it just snapped so i thnk its still tight, so u sure it will work by bring the front up and only rad cap off???? can i get spefic details on how to do that? thanks

Jack up the car from the diff so engines facing ground. Take the radiator cap off and let her run. Rev up a little so it circulate just use water to start with because it will just come put
out when the them opens up. Repeat many many times until it goes away. Then after just add your anti freez

are u sure that works too jacking it up from diff???
does any one witch way is better tho so i can do it????

break it off, drill it out/extract it if you can. if not just drill it out, then rethread it and stuff a another small machine screw in there. done.

Jacking the front of the car up is how most people on here do it. Not exactly 100% on what youre asking, but no, it wont work if you jack up the rear. The radiator needs to be higher than the rest of the cooling system.

If i remember correctly dual cam motor has temp sensor right next to bleed screw? Just bleed it with the temp sensor and leave the bleed bolt alone lol.

ok so u have a question people, i tried to bleed it by putting the nose up and rad cap off so i did that then the car started to warm up and rad started smoking a bit and some coolent gushing a bit out the radiator is that normal?????????? please let me know!!!!

I have a question too. If the temp sensor is right next to the bleed screw why are you jacking up your car up at all? I get bored too i guess. If I'm mistaken about location of the coolant temp sensor however then nevermind.

you need to get the bleeder screw out. drill it with a tiny drill bit (be careful as if it breaks youre in more trouble, so go slowly) and use a reverse drill bit to get it out (aka ez-out) as stated. if needed put a small piece of dry ice on the stub to cool it so it will shrink and come out. all else fails... put a shop rag in the neck,(to catch any shavings) drill it out, and retap with an oversized screw and washer. if not comfortable with this, most shops can do CHEAP, especially if you offer beer or cash after hours

lol yeah i already got wat i need to take it out lol but ill try the beer thing if not lol

so did you get the ez out thing. Im on the same boat bro.