z32 brake Q, iron vs alumium, 28mm vs 30mm

[loveless]

I know there are 3 generation of z32 brakes from searching

28mm aluminum
30mm aluminum
30mm cast iron

is there any major benefit of iron over aluminum? what about the 2mm thicker rotor?

[Slidin240Wayz]

definitive 300zx swap on google by Asad

[loveless]

thaks but i already found that site but it mentioned nothing about which one is better and to what extent

[CHARLIE2020]

I know there are 3 generation of z32 brakes from searching

28mm aluminum
30mm aluminum
30mm cast iron

is there any major benefit of iron over aluminum? what about the 2mm thicker rotor?

Actually its:

26mm aluminum
30mm aluminum
30mm cast iron

Probably just weight saving is the major benefit and size, never heard of an aluminum one failing.

[NI_YON_Zenki]

Don't you all pay attention in class, them days? Iron takes longer to cool down than that of al-umin-em' . .. .Good ol' Top Gear.. ..Besides the point.. ..
The apparent weight difference. The fact that it would take more to cool down a fresh set of irons over alums has got to be the simplest thing to observe when dealing with high speeds.. ..
~or~
Grand Touring aspects of any "race" car. .. . Amongst other chemical, physical, logical balances based on alum over iron is this. .. .aluminum just looks well taken care of even when let go for a few. .. .years

It withstands the environment & elements better than it's forefather "deeper soiled root" metals.. ..

[luckyrb13]

Just what i have heard from so track gurus dont know if it true or not htat the aluminum ones tend to heat up faster and and seem to fade longer. But i dont think its true i have the 26mm ones and have never had any problems with them. So i wouldnt really worry about it.

[CHARLIE2020]

FYI SPL now sells a mounting bracket that allows you to mount the 2003 350Z track edition rotors (12.76" x 30mm) to Z32 300mm calipers cost $179 I believe.

[BigVinnie]

Companies such as rotora, and wilwood use aluminum instead of cast iron....
i guess what manufacturers claim is that aluminum anodized is lighter in composite, dissipates heat faster than cast iron, and will NEVER corode I guess hands down aluminum is better.

[infinitexsound]

yeah but we dont repeatedly go past 100mph all the time and stop in seconds just about everyday . for a street car what ever works in ur budget just get it..

if i were u, id get the 30mm calipers and the track rotors and make ur own brackets...

[andrewmp6]

you dont need to make any brackets the z32 r32 and r33 cailpers bolt right on http://www.pdm-racing.com/ does sell the lines for the swap

[projectRDM]

you dont need to make any brackets the z32 r32 and r33 cailpers bolt right on http://www.pdm-racing.com/ does sell the lines for the swap

With the corresponding rotor. With a Z33 rotor, you need the bracket. Pay attention.

[CHARLIE2020]

yeah but we dont repeatedly go past 100mph all the time and stop in seconds just about everyday . for a street car what ever works in ur budget just get it..

if i were u, id get the 30mm calipers and the track rotors and make ur own brackets...

http://www.splparts.com/

Makes a bracket for the track rotors for $179.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/charlie2020/SPLBigBrakeRotorKit.jpg

SPL big rotor front upgrade kit


Larger brake rotors, even with stock calipers, can provide a significant improvement in braking over stock rotors. The larger diameter moves the caliper further from the center of the hub, which gives the caliper more leverage thus increasing brake torque (with the same pedal pressure and pad friction). The larger rotors also have more thermal mass, which reduces brake fade. The big brake rotor upgrade is a very cost effective upgrade that provides real improvements to braking.



We offer this kit with a 350Z Brembo Sport 1-piece slotted cad plated 12.8" rotor (vs. 10.8" stock Z32 rotors) with our custom CNC machined and anodized billet T2024-T3 (Super Duralumin) aircraft aluminum adapter/bracket.



Note: 30mm 300ZX calipers required (kit does not work with early 90 model 300ZX 26mm calipers) and not included with kit. 17" wheels (min. 385mm inside diameter) required for clearance .

[BigVinnie]

yeah but we dont repeatedly go past 100mph all the time and stop in seconds just about everyday . for a street car what ever works in ur budget just get it..

if i were u, id get the 30mm calipers and the track rotors and make ur own brackets...


Are you kidding?
You don't have to constantly be tapping on the brakes and going 100MPH. Brake pads are constantly rubbing up against the rotors making heat, it is just a matter of the least amount of pressure being applied since the foot isn't on the pedal.
Even in street conditons going 15MPH or even 25MPH for that matter brakes can heat up and get really hot in stop and go traffic.
The purpose of brake pads is to make friction, FRICTION=HEAT.
I'm not a genius by any means, but if I wanted reliability, and dependibility I would take a set of aluminum anodized any day.
Aluminum Anodized is much more responsive, and if it disapates heat, chances are it will even prevent brake pads from building up gases between the brake pad a rotor, reducing heat variables will prevent the gasses from the brake pad to build up.
I would say that it is a better budget set up than buying crossdrilled rotors, although rotors use other means of cooling the pads and romoving gasses, via holes and slots in the rotors.

[BigVinnie]

As far is price is concerned which of these kits do you guy's prefer.
I've beenlooking into getting one of these....
First is PDM's
http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/brakesz32.html
Second is Arizona Z cars wilwood package
http://www.arizonazcar.com/240sxbrakes.html
This one is the rotora package but they want almost 2G's for this kit
http://froogle.google.com/froogle_cluster?q=240sx+rotora+big+brake+kit&pid=4850176807831768007&oid=14271226592175474761&btnG=Search+Froogle&lmode=&addr=&scoring=p&hl=en
Sorry for double posting, should of asked earlier....

[Teb74]

Why even spend 1.2 G's or 2G's yourself? If your serious about spending that much money on your car... Source the z32 parts yourself... save hundreds of dollars... Remanufactured Calipers are only about $120-200 for a pair... Grab some pads/rotors/stainlesslines/Good Fluid... hell even grab the new custom braket to make z33 rotors work and you'll still be hundreds of dollars less than 1200 on a pdm brake package... And take that money you saved on Rotora brakes and put it in the bank!

[CHARLIE2020]

I just grabed a full set front and back Z32 Aluminum 30mm calipers for $215.32 with full lines to uncut but atleast the rears ones have to be extended about 4-5 inch, I think the front lines will bolt up just fine.

[CHARLIE2020]

Why even spend 1.2 G's or 2G's yourself? If your serious about spending that much money on your car... Source the z32 parts yourself... save hundreds of dollars... Remanufactured Calipers are only about $120-200 for a pair... Grab some pads/rotors/stainlesslines/Good Fluid... hell even grab the new custom braket to make z33 rotors work and you'll still be hundreds of dollars less than 1200 on a pdm brake package... And take that money you saved on Rotora brakes and put it in the bank!

WORD!

[loveless]

thanks for the suggestion guys... I gave up a set of 26mm rebuilt set because now I want the 30mm

[BigVinnie]

So can I just use the the 26mm aluminum caliper on my stock 4lug rotors? Or would I need to get a bracket as well? Doing whatever I can to keep the 4lug pattern and my rims (using the 5zigens FNO1RC with the 25mm offset, the caliper should just fit). PDM also claims that I would need to change out the brake line. Is that correct, I might just save some cash and do it myself...... I haven't done to much brake work to my car yet...... Thanks Guys, much appreciated....

[projectRDM]

So can I just use the the 26mm aluminum caliper on my stock 4lug rotors? Or would I need to get a bracket as well? Doing whatever I can to keep the 4lug pattern and my rims (using the 5zigens FNO1RC with the 25mm offset, the caliper should just fit). PDM also claims that I would need to change out the brake line. Is that correct, I might just save some cash and do it myself...... I haven't done to much brake work to my car yet...... Thanks Guys, much appreciated....

Of course not. The Z32 rotor is larger as well, bolting the caliper up to the OE rotor would give you about 1/4 the contact area on the pad. You need both the caliper and rotor.
No bracket is required, and this is a very thoroughly discussed upgrade. Plenty of info if you search.

[Teb74]

I believe you will probably need brakelines since there are different fittings involved...Pdm sells a conversion line...I went ahead and went with that myself... The only thing the bracket is for is 350Z (Z33) Rotors, that we keep refering to... Remember to get decent fluid as well (Dot4+), don't overlook that especially when the cost is 5 bucks for CastrolLMA or 10+ for Motul, ATE, or another decent brand... Hope that helps you out

[BigVinnie]

this is a very thoroughly discussed upgrade. Plenty of info if you search.


I appoligize. I should of searched, and I am not a regular at this forum either.... Oh well looks like some z32 rotors will hit the drill press for my 4 lug. Thank you for the info.......

[CHARLIE2020]

Shit a just typed alot of info for you but my damn comp froze..shit!

Any ways since your wanting to stay 4 lug and use Z32 brakes you have a few options.

1) I've seen a site that allows for the use of a Z32 rear rotor and stock calipers, this way you can still use your stock disc e-brake.

2) You can get early J30 uprights and there compete bolt on, no hassling with the lower shock mount like on the Z32 uprights but you will have to trim the heat shield where the calipers bolts onto the upright just a lil bit for calipers clearance reasons, the rest of the heat shield should clear the slighty larger in diameter Z32 rear rotors there only 5mm larger in diameter that the J30's rear rotor.

SPECIAL NOTE: The J30 drum brake assembly is compatable with the Z32 rotors just so long as you use the cables of the uprights in this case that would be J30 e-brake cables for J30 uprights, you will still have to modify the cables lenght a lil bit.

Here this might help if things sounds a lil confusing basically these are your options laid out:

http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=139498
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=139495

[infinitexsound]

Are you kidding?
You don't have to constantly be tapping on the brakes and going 100MPH. Brake pads are constantly rubbing up against the rotors making heat, it is just a matter of the least amount of pressure being applied since the foot isn't on the pedal.
Even in street conditons going 15MPH or even 25MPH for that matter brakes can heat up and get really hot in stop and go traffic.
The purpose of brake pads is to make friction, FRICTION=HEAT.
I'm not a genius by any means, but if I wanted reliability, and dependibility I would take a set of aluminum anodized any day.
Aluminum Anodized is much more responsive, and if it disapates heat, chances are it will even prevent brake pads from building up gases between the brake pad a rotor, reducing heat variables will prevent the gasses from the brake pad to build up.
I would say that it is a better budget set up than buying crossdrilled rotors, although rotors use other means of cooling the pads and romoving gasses, via holes and slots in the rotors.


you dont seriously want to debate with me do u? i swear with a statement like that u should of went to MIT.. EINSTEIN

[BigVinnie]

you dont seriously want to debate with me do u? i swear with a statement like that u should of went to MIT.. EINSTEIN

DAMN you have an attitude, I wasn't trying to debate anything. Just brought about facts that are given from caliper companies. If you want to debate with anybody you can debate it with manufacturers, not with me.......

[citizen]

stfu... i win.

[andrewmp6]

if you want a daily driver maybe do a lil autocrossing on the weekends the z32 brakes are fine if you want a full race car get the wilwoods

[burgy240]

***look out for the monkey wrench**** for daily driver the q45 upgrade is all you would ever need!!! bolts up but you DON't need new master cyclinder or conversion lines!!

[CHARLIE2020]

***look out for the monkey wrench**** for daily driver the q45 upgrade is all you would ever need!!! bolts up but you DON't need new master cyclinder or conversion lines!!

WORD! I had this setup just sold it for $340 front and rear and yes it works great even with the stock BMC.

[unwed_transient]

it's not like me to bring old threads back from the dead, but if aluminum is apparently the better choice, why then did nissan switch from aluminum to iron after 1992.5? It's obvious that 30mm calipers were superior to the 26mm, but why the change from aluminum to iron in the 30mm configuration?

just curious.

[nlzmo400r]

***look out for the monkey wrench**** for daily driver the q45 upgrade is all you would ever need!!! bolts up but you DON't need new master cyclinder or conversion lines!!

even at stock power, with road course straights reaching 90mph, ive seen the q45's start smoking. Its just not a big enough rotor if you plan on doing 10miles straight of track racing.

- Rob

[CHARLIE2020]

Is Iron cheaper than Aluminum?

[theicecreamdan]

it's not like me to bring old threads back from the dead, but if aluminum is apparently the better choice, why then did nissan switch from aluminum to iron after 1992.5? It's obvious that 30mm calipers were superior to the 26mm, but why the change from aluminum to iron in the 30mm configuration?

just curious.

cost cuting

and Friction != heat, friction generates heat, but it is not heat.

[unwed_transient]

Friction != heat, friction generates heat, but it is not heat.
in the quiet words of the virgin mary: "come again?"