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SR20d2fourT
11-30-2005, 05:42 PM
Yo guys. Well I was just doing a routine check up on my redtop SR and I checked the oil dipstick only to smell fuel w/ the oil. Now it wasnt a pungent strong smell, I had to smell the oil right under my nose to really smell the fuel. I've searched around online but to no avail. I know its not a good thing and I need to know what it is and if its serious. Thanks guys :D :cj:

boosteds13
11-30-2005, 05:52 PM
Yo guys. Well I was just doing a routine check up on my redtop SR and I checked the oil dipstick only to smell fuel w/ the oil. Now it wasnt a pungent strong smell, I had to smell the oil right under my nose to really smell the fuel. I've searched around online but to no avail. I know its not a good thing and I need to know what it is and if its serious. Thanks guys :D :cj:

It's usually an indication of blow-by. Do a compression test.

SR20d2fourT
11-30-2005, 05:56 PM
Compression test eh...would I be able to do that myself? I know what the SR compression is so its no problem. The only problem is doing it. Im kinda new...fuck..im a newb lol

DP_Michelle G
11-30-2005, 06:29 PM
change your o2 senser that should fix it. had the same thing happen on my ka fix it rite up

breakindrifts
11-30-2005, 06:40 PM
If you know how to change spark plugs you can do a compression test, just go down to your local Peps or Autozone and they can rent out a compression tester to you.

SR20d2fourT
11-30-2005, 06:49 PM
aahh, sweet. I can change plugs, I aint THAT much of a newb. lol. Sweet man, I'll git' r done. haha. How much are renting a compression tester? on average? I want to do this rather than change the o2 sensor. that bitch is too much lol. 90 bucks? cchhh...but I guess if its a must do then its a must do .

SR20d2fourT
11-30-2005, 07:12 PM
*smacks head* whats the compression for each cylinder on the SR? will it be the same as the " Snap Test" compression result? thnx guys

omgosh
11-30-2005, 07:25 PM
$90 for an o2 sensor? More like $20...

Irukandji
11-30-2005, 07:32 PM
haha hey atleast this guy has the guts to ask us.

anyway what he said ^ yea o2 sensor is $20

renting the compression tester should be free but you may have to leave a deposit ($200 I think).

breakindrifts
11-30-2005, 07:35 PM
^ At pep boys or autozone you just pay the price of the tester (like $40) and when you return it you get the 40 back.

boosteds13
11-30-2005, 07:40 PM
$90 for an o2 sensor? More like $20...

Umm.... I'm pretty sure the SR uses a heated 3-wire O2 sensor... those ones are not $20. You CAN get the universal splice in Bosch ones for around $50-60 though. Go to www.oxygensensors.com

change your o2 senser that should fix it. had the same thing happen on my ka fix it rite up

Please explain how an O2 sensor can affect gasoline seeping from the combustion chamber and entering the lubrication system? I still stand by my guess of blow-by.

SR20d2fourT
11-30-2005, 08:22 PM
I was wondering the same thing... I always see OEM sr O2 sensors for like 90 and as boosted said, I'm pretty sure they arent 20 bucks, but I'd love to find one for 20. Where did you guys get yours for 20?. I didnt know you could splice into a Bosch universal...oh yeah...again, whats the compression for each cylinder on the SR? will it be the same as the " Snap Test" compression result? I think I need to change my O2 anyways because I'm pretty sure its going out, I have yet to take it out and look at it.

DP_Michelle G
11-30-2005, 09:41 PM
Since the o2 sensor controls the air/fuel mix. If the o2 is bad it would read lean and make the ecu add more fuel.

If it was blow-by it would have a strong smell of gas to it. And in most cases give off bluish smoke out of the exhaust and dilute the oil and cause oil consumption.

SR20d2fourT- do you have oil consumption problems? And is the oil diluted?

SR20d2fourT-Is there smoke coming out of your exhaust IF so what color?

SR20d2fourT-what color are your plugs?

Also oil will smell like gas over time due to fuel dilution passing through your rings.

Oh the 300zxtt o2 is 60 bucks.

SR20d2fourT
12-01-2005, 11:45 AM
No smoke is coming out of my exhaust. Oil comsumption problems...nope. I'll check the plugs either today or tomorrow. If smelling gas due to dilution passing through my rings is the problem is it a big one? would I have to replace them? ...I"d have to splice the TT o2 huh?

boosteds13
12-01-2005, 12:51 PM
No smoke is coming out of my exhaust. Oil comsumption problems...nope. I'll check the plugs either today or tomorrow. If smelling gas due to dilution passing through my rings is the problem is it a big one? would I have to replace them? ...I"d have to splice the TT o2 huh?

I am pretty sure the 300ZXTT O2 sensor is a direct plug-in to the SR harness. I know it is on the CA18 and the harnesses are virtually identical.

-usmd-180sx
12-01-2005, 01:22 PM
the only problem might be that the plug under the hood might be too short to connect to.. I had a problem with this on the bosch unit.. and had to slice the stock o2 wires to the new bosch sensor.. (**headache) and ended up just replacing mine with a oem fatty

SR20d2fourT
12-01-2005, 02:06 PM
yeah, arent the OEM pieces around 90? thats what I keep seeing. But yeah, we are kinda off topic...does anyone know the compression for each cylinder on the SR? Would it be the same as the "snap test" compression ?

DP_Michelle G
12-01-2005, 03:59 PM
You can get a oem o2 sensor at autozone for 69 bucks. If you lived in the LA area i can get you one for 55 bucks

tt99ol
12-02-2005, 05:58 PM
to do a compression test:
1.warm up engine.
2.dissable fuel and spark
3.remove spark plugs
4.put compression tester in no. 1 cylinder
5.floor it and crank it over untill pressure peaks
6.repeat with all other cylinders
pressure should be 156psi but no less than 128psi with no more than 14psi variation between the highest and lowest cylinder. if low pressure put a drop of oil in the cylinder and retest, if this cures it you have worn rings. if this doesnt fix it your valves may not be seating properly, if two adjacent cylinders are low it may be a head gasket
-Phil

SR20d2fourT
12-03-2005, 12:04 PM
haha, thanks phil. I'll be sure to do that a.s.a.p. thanks to all you guys as well, peace.

harlockssx
12-04-2005, 03:46 AM
A bad mass air sensor can also cause your engine to run overly rich, thereby getting some fuel in your oil...but you'd probably know if that was the case from a lack of power or a lack of smooth power, as well as excessive black smoke & soot around the tailpipe. Check your PCV valve, if it's bad it could allow more blowby...

motonagam
12-04-2005, 08:03 AM
Being a California smog technician for two years and working at a Test & Repair Gold Shield Station, I inspect and repair cars everyday at work. It could be a bad oxygen sensor causing rich condition, but don't just replace it because you think it's bad... test it! You will need a lab scope (like the Snap-On Vantage, Fluke 97/98, etc.), leads, and back probing pins. You will also need a wiring diagram to find out which wire is the signal wire. Backprobe the signal wire, ground the other lead directly to battery ground, and set your lab scope to read 0 - 1v. Warm up the engine, run it at around 2,500-3,000rpm, and watch to see if it has a good signal voltage reading. It should costantly switch between low voltage (lean condition) and high voltage (rich condition), 450mV being the center. If the signal voltage varies between 0-1v, the "switching test" passed. Now, snap the throttle couple times to get the car into a rich condition, then freeze the screen on your lab scope. The transition time between lean to rich should be less than 100ms. If it is more than 100ms, the "response time" test has failed, which means that the oxygen sensor is slow in responding to oxygen content in the exhaust (it's referred to as being a "lazy" sensor). To find out whether or not the oxygen sensor is bad during the switching test, you may see the signal voltage flatline, which means that the oxygen sensor is dead. You may also see signal voltage biased high (above 450mV), which will cause a lean condition because the ECU thinks that the car is running rich; or you may see signal voltage biased low (below 450mV), which will cause a rich condition because the ECU thinks that the car is running lean. These findings are indications of a bad oxygen sensor.

Masashi

CHARLIE2020
12-04-2005, 10:24 AM
Have you ever taken your fuel injectors out of the rail before or bought new injectors and just slaped them in without new o-rings? if so this could be the problem.

SR20d2fourT
12-04-2005, 01:31 PM
No. They are the original injectors and theyre all firing fine and im pretty sure they have the original o-rings. As for my MAF, its fine. Im guessing that the only way to find out would to be the compression test or replacing the O2. Whichever one it may be, Im going to end up doing both. If this doesnt solve the problem, I'll be sure to do some more testing to find out the cause.

aznpoopy
12-04-2005, 01:56 PM
the check your injectors/seals

pull the fuel rail off with the injectors but leave them plugged in

turn the key to on position to prime the fuel pump (don't crank it, obviously)

look for leaks.

rrobe99999
12-05-2005, 08:28 AM
Being a California smog technician for two years and working at a Test & Repair Gold Shield Station, I inspect and repair cars everyday at work. It could be a bad oxygen sensor causing rich condition, but don't just replace it because you think it's bad... test it! You will need a lab scope (like the Snap-On Vantage, Fluke 97/98, etc.), leads, and back probing pins. You will also need a wiring diagram to find out which wire is the signal wire. Backprobe the signal wire, ground the other lead directly to battery ground, and set your lab scope to read 0 - 1v. Warm up the engine, run it at around 2,500-3,000rpm, and watch to see if it has a good signal voltage reading. It should costantly switch between low voltage (lean condition) and high voltage (rich condition), 450mV being the center. If the signal voltage varies between 0-1v, the "switching test" passed. Now, snap the throttle couple times to get the car into a rich condition, then freeze the screen on your lab scope. The transition time between lean to rich should be less than 100ms. If it is more than 100ms, the "response time" test has failed, which means that the oxygen sensor is slow in responding to oxygen content in the exhaust (it's referred to as being a "lazy" sensor). To find out whether or not the oxygen sensor is bad during the switching test, you may see the signal voltage flatline, which means that the oxygen sensor is dead. You may also see signal voltage biased high (above 450mV), which will cause a lean condition because the ECU thinks that the car is running rich; or you may see signal voltage biased low (below 450mV), which will cause a rich condition because the ECU thinks that the car is running lean. These findings are indications of a bad oxygen sensor.

Masashi

Why go through all that trouble when the SR ECU has a O2 sensor self test that does the same thing? See FSM for details.

SR20d2fourT
12-06-2005, 09:27 AM
I didnt know it had an O2 self tester :O . Im gonna have to check that out. Oh btw, I put int the walbro 255 and now, since more fuel is going through the system, I found out that my FPR was bent and leaking. It also runs rich as a mutha fu**er. I cant seem to find out why all of a sudden it would get so bad. I mean, I know I replaced it w/ the bigger fuel pump therefore more fuel but damn, that shit looked like I was burning out. lol. You can swap the SR FPR for the KA right?

Sil-Abc
12-10-2005, 11:23 PM
hey sr20d2fourt ive been having the same problem recently. oil smells like gas but theres no smoke, and the oil seems kinda diluted. Just a quick question, does ur engine sound different when u drive or go to high rpms? cuz with mine it sounds like theres no oil in the engine when i drive like that clicking noise. im assuming my oil could be too thin from the gas and i plan to do a compression test but iuno. just wanted to find out if u have the same noise that im hearing :D