Heeeeellllllllppppppp!!!!!!

[BlackFox]

I need help, soon as possible, I'm trying to change my rear brake pads (95 SE) and I can't get the piston to compress, I found that the ebrake spring thingie is keeping it from compressing so does anyone know how to take that apart or should I try something else? anyone got the FSM?  Thanks

[Gorath]

I have a 92, but it could be the same for your 95.  I compressed the rears by turning them clockwise.  I just used a large wrench, probably not the best but i need new calipers anyways so...

[BlackFox]

yeah, thanks Gorath and the people at Freshalloy.... You need to get a socket thing that fits the pattern on the piston and you turn it just like a screw until you get it to where you want it (turn it all the way) becaues it's a pain in the butt to get the pads only to find the piston isn't compressed enough.

Here's the steps
1. release ebrake and disconnect the ebrake cable that connects to the piston (the braket with the cable on it)
2. unbolt the caliper (one bolt on top and one on the bottom on the back side)
3. slide the old pads toward the center and out
4. turn the piston clockwise to compress it (use the socket tool thing) MAKE SURE THE CIRCLE TAB ON THE PAD MATCHES THE PISTON GROVE !!!!
5. The new pads slide into the clips (it helps to pull up on the little tabs that stick out from the clip and push out the tabs on the bottom when sticking the pad it) slide the pad in both sides at the same time, it's very hard to get one then the other side of a pad in.... don't forget your shims and grease
6. Make sure the pad against the piston has the little tab lined up with the grove.
7. Slide the caliper back on the rotor and rebolt everything
8. Pull the ebrake a few times, it will feel loose at first but should tighten back up to normal in a few pulls.
9. Check your brake fluid resevour and make sure there's enough in there (or too much, since your sending fluid back to it)

Enjoy, took me 4 hours to change one freaking wheel, which includes buying the piston compressor thing.... next wheel should take maybe 1/2 hr~ 15min

"Stopping is just as important as going"
<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/thumbs-up.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':thumbsup:'>

[BlackFox]

*bump* FYI, move this to FAQ

[Kreator]

LOL, don't worry, I've spent two hours trying to push it in, before my stupid ass opened the manual and read that it's supposed to be turned cockwise. So you aren't alone &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/thumbs-up.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':thumbsup:'>

[adey]

Where does the grease go? I am assuming NOT on the pad. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'> &nbsp;...

[BlackFox]

The grease goes between the piston and the back of the pad, you don't need to use all of it, only a light coat on the part that touches the piston

[DSC]

Hey, thanks for bumping this...I'm replaceing my rear pads this weekend.

What are shims tho? &nbsp;And what kind of greese?

[JpS]

i'm pretty sure you can use lithium grease...
and shims.. i'm clueless <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/huh.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':huh:'>

[S13Grl]

White Lithium.

Shims are "brake pad protectors" if you wanna call them that. They protect the back of the brake pad and just sit against the caliper. You'll see what it is. A thin sheet of metal... you'll know what it is.

[guidot]

Shims are wicked ghey. &nbsp;If they weren't required (mad squeeking if you don't use them) I wouldn't use them. &nbsp;They fall off when you are trying for the smooth install. &nbsp;They "protect" the back of the pad also, from not getting crushed/indented. &nbsp;Also, it is NOT necessary that you remove the ebrake cable from the rear calipers. &nbsp;It is a pain in the ass to get back on. &nbsp;You can twist the calipers in with needlenose pliers (if you have two people...note: that is ghetto, I'm a cheap bastard). &nbsp;When you get both calipers and wheels back on, remember to do the brake "break in." &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'> &nbsp;0-10-0, 0-20-0, 0-30-0 and that should be it. &nbsp;Good Luck! &nbsp;DSC if you have trouble let me know, I should be online!

[silvia240]

where do you get that thing that twists the caliper in for the rears?

[DSC]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (silvia240 @ May 17 2002,05:19)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">where do you get that thing that twists the caliper in for the rears?</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
The local auto place (auto zone, advanced autoparts, ect) should cary them. &nbsp;
I just picked mine up about 10 minuets ago. &nbsp;Its a little cube thing with a different patern on each side (to fit different pistons) that you put on your ratchet (not impact wrench <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':0'> ) &nbsp;
Mine is said to fit: "ford, gm, chrysler and most import vehicles with 4 wheel disc brakes"
Cost me $11


I can use my old shims right? &nbsp;I don't think I got new ones with my brake pads.

[S13Grl]

You can reuse your old shims, yes.

Also, after you're done, remember to pump the brake.

[silvia240]

Also, i did my front brakes about 4 months ago and they squeak like a [email protected], most of the time. &nbsp;It started about a week after i did my brakes. &nbsp;Any ideas? I cleaned the rotors, calipers, shims, pads (when i was doing my brakes). &nbsp;And i put a grip of that goop sh!t on the pads and shims. &nbsp;Anybody know what else i can do to get rid of the squeak?<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'>?
I also had the rotors resurfaced.

[240meowth]

i know for the rear, you have to turn it w/ a special tool, but you can use a needle nose plier to do it as well. &nbsp;just grap onto the pattern, and turn

[wherezmytofu]

brake pads r a 20-30min job...and will safe u alot of $....what i normilly do is compress the calipers with the old pads on then pout on the new pads quicky.....rember 2 be in neutral or else break fuel might come out of ur resivour &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>

[camppain]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (BlackFox @ May 10 2002,04:10)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">yeah, thanks Gorath and the people at Freshalloy.... You need to get a socket thing that fits the pattern on the piston and you turn it just like a screw until you get it to where you want it (turn it all the way) becaues it's a pain in the butt to get the pads only to find the piston isn't compressed enough.

Here's the steps
1. release ebrake and disconnect the ebrake cable that connects to the piston (the braket with the cable on it)
2. unbolt the caliper (one bolt on top and one on the bottom on the back side)
3. slide the old pads toward the center and out
4. turn the piston clockwise to compress it (use the socket tool thing) MAKE SURE THE CIRCLE TAB ON THE PAD MATCHES THE PISTON GROVE !!!!
5. The new pads slide into the clips (it helps to pull up on the little tabs that stick out from the clip and push out the tabs on the bottom when sticking the pad it) slide the pad in both sides at the same time, it's very hard to get one then the other side of a pad in.... don't forget your shims and grease
6. Make sure the pad against the piston has the little tab lined up with the grove.
7. Slide the caliper back on the rotor and rebolt everything
8. Pull the ebrake a few times, it will feel loose at first but should tighten back up to normal in a few pulls.
9. Check your brake fluid resevour and make sure there's enough in there (or too much, since your sending fluid back to it)

Enjoy, took me 4 hours to change one freaking wheel, which includes buying the piston compressor thing.... next wheel should take maybe 1/2 hr~ 15min

"Stopping is just as important as going"
<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/thumbs-up.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':thumbsup:'></td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">1. release ebrake and disconnect the ebrake cable that connects to the piston (the braket with the cable on it)</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

YOU DO NOT NEED TO DISCONNECT THE REAR E BRAKE CABLE! Period. .....

the e brake cable does nothing when your changing the rears unless your going to change the whole cable there is no need at all whatsoever to take the cable's off the caliper.

and yes u need a tool to compress the piston in there are many available . i have one @ work but dont have any pics of it.
check out www.matco.com u can find a picture of it there. but just go to sears and buy a cheap one if u dont do it for a living. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'>
when you take the caliper bracket off make sure u clean the hardware (the metal tabs where the pads slide on. clean them with steel wire brush.
then apply some grease the have brake grease or any suitable grease should work to allow them to slide with out binding.

white lith, silicone grease, red grease, antisieze, brake antiseize.... etc. etc. usually after market pads come with the grease.

apply the grease on the caliper bracket hardware,on the back of the pads to help hold the shims on, and on the back of the shims.


also if your going to get ur rotor resurfaced i suggest that u mark on of the wheel studs with a crayon and match it with the rotor so u put it back in the same place to minimize pedal pulsation. since the rotor builds a relationship with the hub. trust me it makes a difference and you don't want to risk it. also if you do take off the rotor make sure tto apply some of the afformentioned graese to the hub to allow easier take off for your next brake job.

if you dont want to buy the caliper tool you can use needle nose pliers to turn it. and yes it must match up with the tabs on the pads. easiest way is to have the pistons indentations be horizontal - with the car (i hopoe i explained that good enough)

also when you do this make sure you compress ONE SIDE AT A TIME! once your done with one side bolt everything ack up then move to the other caliper and compress it not doing this may force the fluid to one side and shoot the piston out.

and before you start take the master cyl. cap off so fluid has a chance to get out once u compress the calipers in.

pump the brakes once doen and pull the ebrake cable