I hate Nissan ECU's

[datboibrad]

Ok for weeks ive been trying to figure out what the hell is up with my car and another car ecu wise. Im currently running a #62 ecu thats chipped with the chip removed. suposedly the ecu returns to stock without the chip. Now as is the car runs so/so but it slacks off and pops every so often at random rpms. basically the driveability sucks and isnt consistant. im running a z32 maf with my safc set to 2-6. also the shit runs rich as shit.


now today i tried a #63 ecu. world of difference. car ran like a champ, pulled hard as shit. BUT wont idle worth a shit and dies real easy. Idle would jump from 1200-400(almost dying) with the afc set to 2-6 and still runs rich. when set to 2-5 idle perfect and no smoke out the exhaust but runs like total shit in a bucket. cant rev over like 2k.


so im burned out if ideas on what the hell is wrong. ive double checked everything there is from MAF to MAF wiring etc. someone help me figure this out before i go ballistic.

[NemeGuero]

Reset the ECU. I forget the exact procedure but it has something to do with disconnecting the battery for an extended period of time.

also, see if you can test another ECU from a friends car to see if it is in fact the ECU


lol "if it is in".. that makes me laugh

[datboibrad]

i already tested a freinds ecu thats where the #63 part of my post came from....

i need to try and find someone with another #62 ecu. suposedly you can reset the ecu the same way you check for error codes. which by the way i cant check on my ecu

[datboibrad]

anyone else have any ideas

[Irukandji]

can you give us more information on what you are running?

we might be able to help if you have more info.

[datboibrad]

ok here is a revised version of my question and statements i made on another forum.

Ok i finally finished my SR swap in my 89 hatch and for some reason or another i cant get it to run at its full potential or get great driveability out of it like i know it has. between me and a freind we have 3 ecu's that ive tried with no luck to get my car running as it should. we have a #61 #62 and #63 below are the results i get from each ecu on my car

now mods wise everything is stock with larger exhaust from manifold back, im still on stock 370's and running a z32 maf upgrade with an safc. wiring is correct on the maf ive checked it 9234892384902 times.

#61 ecu - no crank

#62 ecu - when chip removed it becomes stock. when driving on this ecu with afc set to 2-6 it runs enough to get from A to B but doenst have the power i know it has from swapping out to a #63 ecu. the power band isnt very smooth and usually has either timing or fuel break ups after 3-4k. also bogs bad at like 1/4 or lo throttle. car also runs rich as [censored]

#63 ecu - runs like a champ 2/3 times with afc set to 2-6. after driving around and i guess after the car fiannly warmed up it didnt run the same. coming from a stop and leaving in 1st it wouldnt go up the rpms worth a [censored] and popped/backfired also jerked the car a lot. went to agas station and got gas and set afc to 2-5. car stopped smoking gas out the exhaust at idle but wouldnt drive worth two [censored]

[datboibrad]

heeeeeeeelp

[SirWarrior]

did you set the timing right?

[max240]

When you pull out the chip they dont automatically return to "stock". Their is a jumper (0 ohm resistor) on the back of the ecu circuit board that has to be put back in its original position. With the chip out your running in limp home mode. Usually the jumper is marked CJ1-CJ2.

[datboibrad]

When you pull out the chip they dont automatically return to "stock". Their is a jumper (0 ohm resistor) on the back of the ecu circuit board that has to be put back in its original position. With the chip out your running in limp home mode. Usually the jumper is marked CJ1-CJ2.
ok then why does the car still run crazy with a stock #63 ecu

[/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/]

THE CAR DOES NOT RETURN TO STOCK WITH CHIP REMOVED!!!!!!! Like Max said you have to move the jumper on the back of the ecu by desoldering it and re-soldering to the new position. Try running ecu codes and see what comes up. Also, you may want to put the stock maf back on disconnect the safc, and try to get it running right first.

[datboibrad]

THE CAR DOES NOT RETURN TO STOCK WITH CHIP REMOVED!!!!!!! Like Max said you have to move the jumper on the back of the ecu by desoldering it and re-soldering to the new position. Try running ecu codes and see what comes up. Also, you may want to put the stock maf back on disconnect the safc, and try to get it running right first.
ok i dont understand why your shouting about the chipped ecu. i understood what the guy said. BUT HAD YOU READ WHAT I POSTED you would see i was asking about another ecu A STOCK 63 ECU not the chipped 62. and i dont have a stock maf to use. if i had all the correct things to begin with i wouldnt be dealing with this shit right now. OR MAYBE i decided that i wanted to USE a z32 maf in conjunction with an SAFC since its been done 23894082390482342 times. i think that ive made it obvious or least attempted to that the MAF nor the SAFC isnt my problem and the ecu's are. thanks for you atempt to help even though it was a waste of webspace

[datboibrad]

bump for unanswered (sp) questions

[max240]

Im not an sr ecu expert but it sounds like both ecus are going into limp mode.(This causes an extremely rich mixture as well as an unwillingness to rev with popping and sputtering.) Maybe its a bad maf? Yeah and I agree with you about the yelling :wtf: BTW do you know what the chip is actually setup for?(#63ecu)

[importsolutions.net]

did you check timing? borrow a timing light and search the threads for the proper procedure on checking and adjusting timing..theres plenty of info on how to do this...i had a similar problem when i built my head...but i had cams and such so i had to advance timing or it would run too rich and hesitate, bog out, die, sputter..ect. i advanved the base timing on cam gears and messed around with that cam position sensor, took it to get tuned for $125 and it runs perfect now.