SR20de swap (yes, N/A!!) some q's

[csdcowboy]

I was talking with the guy I'd be getting the motor/tranny from and he said to check into a few things, so here goes. I apologize profusely in advance if anything's a repost, I went through numerous threads, but I want to double check. Do it right the first time, right?! :)

This is going into a S13 Ka24e coupe.

Do I need the S13 Silvia crossmember?

Do I need a different driveshaft? If so, which?

I'm planning on getting new pumps, etc, provided they don't come on the motor already, but what's compatible, if anything, from the KA?

Since this would be a Japanese model, am I going to run into issues with the power steering lines? Is there something that's an easy replacement? (engine guy's made many SS ones himself, so he's sayin they CAN be custom, though he said people may say otherwise)

I went to HeavyThrottle and figured out what else I'd need, for the most part. The thing is, those directions are for turbo'd. Is there parts that they're saying are necessary (for the turbo), but really don't need to be as "beefy"?

I think that's it for now. I'll add if I think of something else. Thanks for looking!



P.S. Be nice to teh noobzorz :hsdance:

[mRclARK1]

I don't think you will need to change the crossmember. But I could be wrong (I don't have much expierience with the KA24E, but I think it would be the same as the KA24DE)

As far as I know you only need a different driveshaft if you are going from auto-5speed, or 5speed-auto.

The easiest solution for the power steering lines is find a 91 or newer 240SX at a junkyard and take it's power steering lines. They should bolt right on (they do with the DET, so I don't see why they wouldn't with the DE).

As for the heavy throttle website recommendations; I would upgrade the fuel pump, clutch (if 5speed) and fans. You obviously won't need an intercooler, and the stock rad will be fine for the DE.

[morpheus8486]

I know nothing about the sr20de other than I raced an older stock se-r with an sr20de and it started to pull on my stock ka in the top end. So what kind of power are they capable of putting down? How come no turbo? I'm curious to why you chose the de.

[csdcowboy]

Thanks for the replies.

I think the n/a sr20 puts out roughly the same hp as the ka, but less torque. Now why in the blue f*ck would I want to do that? Cause my motor's a piece! The reason I'm going N/A is because I can't afford to go turbo right now, and if I ever do, I'll most likely get rid of most of the stock SR20 stuff anyways, so no reason to pay for it now only to have to get rid of it later. I don't need turbo now...I need an engine that runs well. I can turbo later if I get money saved up.

mRclARK1 - Thanks for the words of wisdom :)

[theicecreamdan]

its probly cheaper to replace ur KA then.

[Whiplash Willy]

You can find good kas around for around $200, thats what i paid for my sohc.

[csdcowboy]

Yes, but how does the aftermarket (ie: turbo) prices compare from the sr20 vs ka? I want to have that option.

[BigVinnie]

Yes, but how does the aftermarket (ie: turbo) prices compare from the sr20 vs ka? I want to have that option.

Sounds like you haven't been doing very much research. The stock sr's in N/A format are nothing close to that of the sr20det, (internals are completely different as far as oil sump, and oil squirters.) You would literally be paying for a completely built sr20det by the time you wanted to turbo charge, I don't recomend the path in which you want to take.
Secondly if you did the math it would take you more time to swap the wiring harness and ecu as well. If you compare stock sr N/A to the stock ka N/A, the ka would win every time.
Just with a $300 Mega Biki, and $700 JWT cams you can get a cheaply modified KA between 180~200CHP.......
Then you can get a turbo system strapped and ready to go for under $2700 with FMIC, since you would already have retunable roms (biki).
That is the cheapest most effective route to make some serious HP numbers. Especially since used, and even rebuilt KA's are dirt cheap......

[smily_vigor]

^^^ I totally agree. With the abundance of KA's around and most of them going for dirt cheap your best bet is to just replace your current motor with either a single or double over head cam KA. Both are great motors and both have an abundance of aftermarket parts that can make them pretty quick. In the past everyone though the route to go to be fast was to get the praised SR20DET but now a days there are many daily driven and reliable KT-T's running around with just as much if not more power than the SR's. And a lot of the time the money you would've taken to buy an SR you can put that in your existing KA and be killer. Do some more research and then make an informed decision on what your gonna do.

[csdcowboy]

Thank you guys for the good information. I guess I hadn't looked hard enough into sr20de vs. sr20det.

KA would be much cheaper, and wouldn't have to get it from Japan, either, so little shipping.

Sorry for bein such a damned noob!! :hs::wavey:

[drift freaq]

man there is so much misinformation in this thread!! Nearly all of you guys, save like one person, need to all do a lot more research, on these engines before even speaking up.

[theicecreamdan]

internally the DE isnt all that much different from the DET... oil squirters are lacking, and compression is upped a little, turboing a DE would still give you a very potent SR... noobs dont post

[csdcowboy]

GAH! I just need a straight answer! haha

[drift freaq]

and the valves in the de are not sodium filled like the DET valves.

[drift freaq]

GAH! I just need a straight answer! haha
cowboy, a lot of the SER boys have turboed there DE's to excellent results power wise . With the higher comp pistons you will get some extra bottom end power. Dan and I pretty much outlined the pro's and cons to turbo'ing a SR20DE . everyone else needs to hit the books.

oh ya and the crossmembers in the S13(all S13's) and S14's are the same regardless of which engine came in the car SR or KA.

[csdcowboy]

cowboy, a lot of the SER boys have turboed there DE's to excellent results power wise . With the higher comp pistons you will get some extra bottom end power. Dan and I pretty much outlined the pro's and cons to turbo'ing a SR20DE . everyone else needs to hit the books.

oh ya and the crossmembers in the S13(all S13's) and S14's are the same regardless of which engine came in the car SR or KA.

Thanks for the confirmation on the crossmember.

Do you have all these pros/cons written up somewhere?

[theicecreamdan]

right here in this thread,,, dont read any post in here unless it was written by myself, or drift freaq

[csdcowboy]

Thanks Dan, talking to driftfreaq right now on AIM :)

[BigVinnie]

right here in this thread,,, dont read any post in here unless it was written by myself, or drift freaq

HAHAHA, you and driftfreaq are hilarious. Just because your post count is high in Zilvia makes you masters of SR building. WTF!?!?!?!
Telling people that someones credibility doesn't count, because of there posts WTF!?!?!?!
Do you know how much trouble the sr20DE goes through with lack of OIL? You can't even get it passed 8PSI without opening up the engine and redoing the oil squirters. Getting him to buy an engine than when turboed he'll also need the oil squirters and sodium valves, well that is if he wants over 8 psi. Your getting him an investment that he is going to have to spend more money on. Get a det, don't waste your time with the DE.

What was your point about the CR again? KA and SE-R (sr20de) have the same CR.
Hell the KA even comes with oil squirters. 2.4 litre displacement with less boosting makes more power than the sr, and the only complaint any body can make about the KA is that it has weak rings, and shot peened rods. What is your point????? Your boosting half as much PSI to make the same power as the sr20det!!!!!! LOL. sr make's the majority of it's power @6800RPM, KA makes that with less boosting @5680RPM, please for a high post count you guy's sound like noobs......

[csdcowboy]

rant

Chill man :) I've decided against the SR already...too much of a headache.

[drift freaq]

HAHAHA, you and driftfreaq are hilarious. Just because your post count is high in Zilvia makes you masters of SR building. WTF!?!?!?!
Telling people that someones credibility doesn't count, because of there posts WTF!?!?!?!
Do you know how much trouble the sr20DE goes through with lack of OIL? You can't even get it passed 8PSI without opening up the engine and redoing the oil squirters. Getting him to buy an engine than when turboed he'll also need the oil squirters and sodium valves, well that is if he wants over 8 psi. Your getting him an investment that he is going to have to spend more money on. Get a det, don't waste your time with the DE.

What was your point about the CR again? KA and SE-R (sr20de) have the same CR.
Hell the KA even comes with oil squirters. 2.4 litre displacement with less boosting makes more power than the sr, and the only complaint any body can make about the KA is that it has weak rings, and shot peened rods. What is your point????? Your boosting half as much PSI to make the same power as the sr20det!!!!!! LOL. sr make's the majority of it's power @6800RPM, KA makes that with less boosting @5680RPM, please for a high post count you guy's sound like noobs......

no you take what I say out of context. All I was saying was there is a lot of misinformation being posted in the thread, which there was. On top of that the guy was asking specifically about the SR20de. I did not point a finger directly at you Vinnie. On top of that SER boys have gotten excellent results boosting DE engines. I know a number of them here in socal. oh ya an shot peened rods are better than non shot peened rods if your going to bring that up. Deburring and shot peening is a very common race engine building technique for high performance.
Excuse me, for offending you for not giving him all the info on SR internals!! You did not even mention the difference in valves, which is a pretty big difference.

oh ya and vinnie by the way while your not getting facts right. KA has stock forged rods. Both the crank and rods of KA's are forged as are SR's.

[BigVinnie]

no you take what I say out of context. All I was saying was there is a lot of misinformation being posted in the thread, which there was. On top of that the guy was asking specifically about the SR20de. I did not point a finger directly at you Vinnie. On top of that SER boys have gotten excellent results boosting DE engines. I know a number of them here in socal. oh ya an shot peened rods are better than non shot peened rods if your going to bring that up. Deburring and shot peening is a very common race engine building technique for high performance.
Excuse me, for offending you for not giving him all the info on SR internals!! You did not even mention the difference in valves, which is a pretty big difference.

oh ya and vinnie by the way while your not getting facts right. KA has stock forged rods. Both the crank and rods of KA's are forged as are SR's.

I appoligize for the attitude.
But on another note the KA crank is forged not the RODS.
I've ordered these rods many of times for the NAPS-z 24, and my KA. Most after market companies offer it in forged. Nissan sells it as shot peened/cast. There made of the same steel found in the Half counterweighted L series crank engines, and NAPS-Z. The shot peened does do it's job though, it can hold about 380WHP on a KA.

[RPS13nutt]

hey guys if ya dont mind I would like to keep this thread going for those who are still interested in getting the na sr. I have a some of questions myself. as far as engine wiring goes with the ka soch to doch sr has anyone tried it for the s14 na sr in the s13 chassis? I know its a obd-II motor compared to the s13 na sr,but was wondering if anyone had any knowledge to to pass down. thx i found wiring diagrams for both and seen that the injector wires are swapped mainly but was there anything else that i should probably check since the motor was for the 14, and not 13?
I already have the motor and am preping it for installation, the wiring is my main problem though.
thx for your time

[sLiDewAys]

BEE*R makes a super charger for the sr20de now guys. look into that im shure its not too espensive!


:)

[nissantuner22]

Can't get the PSI over 8 without opening up the motor?
I really wish some of you guys knew what you were talking about.

Visit sr20deforum.com please, go to the turbo section, and take note of the engine buildups on STOCK DE engines. Also take note of what there using. In most cases, its not much. 370cc injectors, and up'd fuel pressure, with an SAFC.

Its one thing to be a KA guy, and its a totally different thing to just not have any clue what your talking about. The misinformation on SR20DE's is sickening.

[sLiDewAys]

im assuming that comment was not directed torward me, if so then i highly reccomend you stay on teh forums a little longer and learn a little more. if the comment was not directed torwards me then well, eatr my arse:) love you commentary zilvians cant just get enough of your love haha

[BigVinnie]

Can't get the PSI over 8 without opening up the motor?


Actually you can if you like metal shards in your oil filter. :mrmeph:

[nissantuner22]

If only a stock DE could go over 8psi. If only

http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=135100

http://members.cox.net/fastse-r/shawn400whp.jpg

[BigVinnie]

If only a stock DE could go over 8psi. If only


You can defenitely increase past 8psi. The fact remains that without oil squirters you decrease the long gevity of the engine. Rod assebly isn't well lubed (pin to rod) asembly, and even crank bearing's are less lubricated. try doing that with high heat tolerances on long track times, you will get metal shards in your oil filter. Increased engine tempratures, even over heating. I wasn't trying to be insulting earlier, I appoligize. There is a benefit to having oil squirters.....

[Tenzin]

You can defenitely increase past 8psi. The fact remains that without oil squirters you decrease the long gevity of the engine. Rod assebly isn't well lubed (pin to rod) asembly, and even crank bearing's are less lubricated. try doing that with high heat tolerances on long track times, you will get metal shards in your oil filter. Increased engine tempratures, even over heating. I wasn't trying to be insulting earlier, I appoligize. There is a benefit to having oil squirters.....

I find it's funny for a guy who pretends to know alot about car but cant spell correctly. I have a feeling that you spend too much time on KA-T and your opinions are bias. You seem to be reading alot of misleading posts and regurgitating it back here on this forum so you can at least sound smart and add some post counts. On serious note, quit talking out of your ass dude. You went from saying a stock sr20de cannot handle 8 psi to saying sr20de can handle 8 psi but will get shards. What are you planning to say next? Sr20de can handle 8 psi but because of the high atmospheric pressure it will cause alot of stress and flex inside the cylinder wall (joking). I've boosted sr20de to 10 psi without any problems in the past and havent had any shards in my oil filter either.

[rps13_fastback]

How much is the SR20DE swap?

IMO not worth it

[BigVinnie]

It was an overexageration, personally I wouldn't want to go boosted without oil squirters. There is a reason why it was designed for the (sr20det), enough said. Quit trying to act like you know something. When something is redesigned there is no arguement, obviously you DE guys haven't opened up a DE block, and a DET block........

Who said I was just "ALL about KA-T", I didn't mention that once in this thread, I suggested to the thread starter to go sr20det if anything and not waste his money on the DE..........

It's funny how you talk about my spelling Tanzin your grammar suck's, maybe you have been living on the island to long........

[nsn240]

internally the DE isnt all that much different from the DET... oil squirters are lacking, and compression is upped a little, turboing a DE would still give you a very potent SR... noobs dont post

From the start, having a turbo sr20de is decent, the higher compression plus a turbo makes it a really fast car for the money spent. Unfortunately, if i ever go to upgrade (as Big V said) i'll have to build the whole fucking engine first by adding new internals, oil squirters (if you can)

my car is sr20de powered... installed like any other sr20 does. So yes, you'll need the new ps lines from a 91-94 and a new driveshaft (if you are going auto to manual) I'm running a sr20det stock t25 at 7psi and can pump it to 10-12 (maybe higher) but only on track days - not a good idea to run it for more than a day or run that way too hard. For now... it's a good bang-for-your-buck setup, but later its gonna suck ass for me to upgrade

[BigVinnie]

Thanks NSN240, it's good to know that you have friends in other forums that can back up the PROOF!!!!!!!!!!
LOL to all you bitches that don't know shiat about running a sr20DE-(T) on the track with high PSI. Don't get me wrong fun engines to toy with for moderate power, but isn't something you want to run on boost for a long time....... :madfawk: