Turbo Parts list

[sykikchimp]

I am planning to run a modest turbo setup. Max 10-12psi, probably 6-7 psi daily driven.

This is the list of components I have put together that I would need.. Can you tell me if this would work or if I'm missing something?

Fuel:
370cc injectors 95+ 300ZX Turbo
jim wolf ecu
Walbro Fuel pump
Adjustable FPR.. (is this necessary??)
Turbo/intake/exhaust:
turbonetics T3 (maybe you can make a suggestion here.. I would like quick spool, but I don't want to push the turbo beyond its limits when pushing 12psi)
Revhard Manifold
Tial 35mm Wastegate (maybe you could make a suggestion here too?)
2 1/2 downpipe
Exhaust -possibly 80mm 5zigen
starion intercooler (or equiv.)
Custom IC piping
Oil Pan with 1/2" fitting for oil return
Feed oil from 1/8" BSPT fitting attached to oil pressure sender. (maybe there is better way?)
Other:
Spark plugs w/ 6 cold rating
Gauges: Boost; Air/Fuel; Fuel Pressure or Oil Pressure?
Random Fittings, and SSteel braided hoses..

This is to get me going.. Later I would get an Electronic Boost controller, and turbo timer.


Any suggestions as to different parts that would work better or equal?, or parts I missed? Would help me out greatly! I feel it's about time to get serious about this project.

-Charles

[boosteds14]

u dont really need the regulator- its covered

sounds great though
i have a turbo for sale if u want it $550
t3/t04b stage 3 turbine wheel, .48a/r 60-1 trim and thermocoated
perfect for fast response and low boost applications

[sykikchimp]

Very possible on the turbo.. did you buy it new?

[Jeff240sx]

Hey, do you have any idea what that setup is gonna cost you?  And no,  you don't need a FPR, since you have the JWT ecu on your list.
A T3 would get you plenty of boost, since z31.com says it is good on a 3.0L v6 up to 14 psi.  And this is a lot more air to push than our 2.4L.
I would get a t3/4 though.  It just seems like the thing to do.  Since you will have the JWT ecu, and intercooler, if you get a larger turbo, you will have room to upgrade.
A lot of people get a turbo bug, and gotta go faster.  Duy, PSI240sx, Boosteds14, Chris May.  They are all switching or switched their turbos.  Cuz you'll realize you can go faster, after putting $1k into your car on pistons and rods and injectors.  Then you crank the boost, cuz you're a guy, and thats what we do, and you'll hit the limits of a T3.  Better to have a larger turbo, proven on Boosted's car to run 22psi, than pay $xxx.xx for the t3 and have to find a t3/4 for more $$$.
On a side note, I think I will have 5 gauges.  3 in a HKS Din-sized panel and stick it in the slot under the radio, and 2 on the a-pillar.  The A-pillar will be the most looked at ones, BOOST, and Oil Pressure.  Cuz a gain or loss in either will blow a car up.  Then in the Din Panel will be a Fuel pressure, EGT, and Oil Temp.
-Jeff

[Jeff240sx]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (boosteds14 @ May 03 2002,3:01)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">u dont really need the regulator- its covered

sounds great though
i have a turbo for sale if u want it $550
t3/t04b stage 3 turbine wheel, .48a/r 60-1 trim and thermocoated
perfect for fast response and low boost applications</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Jeff,
What turbo you gonna upgrade to when you sell the t3/4b?
-Jeff

[sykikchimp]

Boosted - what did your car start to spool at? &nbsp;when did you reach max boost? &nbsp;When should it reach full boost at 12 psi.


I think I would rather have smaller turbo for now so that I'm NOT tempted to turn up the boost. &nbsp;But I may consider the T3/4 anyway

[sykikchimp]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Jeff240sx @ May 03 2002,2:38)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Hey, do you have any idea what that setup is gonna cost you?</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Yeah I realize it's a lot, It would be put togther peice by piece by piece.. &nbsp;And I would buy a lot of it used, and off ebay etc.. &nbsp;I think I can do it for about $2000.

The money is one of the reasons I asked. &nbsp;To see if you guys had any cost consious options..

[luey02]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Jeff240sx @ May 03 2002,2:38)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">On a side note, I think I will have 5 gauges. 3 in a HKS Din-sized panel and stick it in the slot under the radio, and 2 on the a-pillar. The A-pillar will be the most looked at ones, BOOST, and Oil Pressure. Cuz a gain or loss in either will blow a car up. Then in the Din Panel will be a Fuel pressure, EGT, and Oil Temp.
-Jeff</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
wouldn't the engine blow from changing fuel pressure? are you talkin about detonation from lean/rich? if so, isn't a a/f gauge more important? Please enlighten me with your knowledge. Also explain other gauges too..(like effects of high exhause temp)

chimp, I say you need a bigger MAF then the list will be complete. And you should get turbo timer first before, say, turbo upgrade. I would do the booster control too... so you can feel higher boost from original turbo.. &nbsp;

thanks

[boosteds14]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Jeff,
What turbo you gonna upgrade to when you sell the t3/4b?
-Jeff</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
i am getting either a to4r from my friends supra or a t60 new! not sure yet, i have to see how much turbo lag i will get and have to take a look at the compressor maps.
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Boosted - what did your car start to spool at? &nbsp;when did you reach max boost? &nbsp;When should it reach full boost at 12 psi.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
it is at 12psi at 3000-3200rpm, hits really hard then.
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">chimp, I say you need a bigger MAF then the list will be complete. And you should get turbo timer first before, say, turbo upgrade. I would do the booster control too... so you can feel higher boost from original turbo.. &nbsp;</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
he does not the need a bigger maf because he is using 370cc injectors with the jwt upgrade.
u need a bigger maf for more than 12psi and the 50lbs injector setup by jwt

[sykikchimp]

Ok.. After pricing some stuff out, I think it would be cheaper to find a used internally wastgated Turbo. &nbsp;
Any ideas?

[rancid240]

I was told that an 81-83 280zx turbo would be good for my sohc setup...but i think a universal t3 would be much easier to find, since tons of cars carry them. &nbsp;also, i was told that for DOHC you need an AR of .63 or higher, but dont quote me on it. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/lookaround.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':look:'>

[mbmbmb23]

BOV, high-flow cat, K&N, new hangers for aftermarket exhaust, forged pistons & rings, cobra MAF, metal head gasket (if anyone makes one for the KA), porting and polishing??, new fluids for engine, compression check & heavy duty weld the starion FMIC, shipping and handling costs for shipped parts.

Thats all I can think of. Sorry to be nit-picky.

-M

[Jeff240sx]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (mbmbmb23 @ May 04 2002,02:03)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">BOV, high-flow cat, K&N, new hangers for aftermarket exhaust, forged pistons & rings, cobra MAF, metal head gasket (if anyone makes one for the KA), porting and polishing??, new fluids for engine, compression check & heavy duty weld the starion FMIC, shipping and handling costs for shipped parts.

Thats all I can think of. Sorry to be nit-picky.

-M</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Dude, you're a nice guy and all, so I won't flame you for bieng *helpful*, and I won't flame you for not reading, either.
But please do read next time he says the words "MODERATE boost" and "Complete for $2000."
I know that z31s have a t3 turbo on them. &nbsp;And they are internally wastegated. &nbsp;
I am trying to talk Rampid360 into a cost-effective turbo setup. &nbsp;z31 turbo, rebuilt $300. &nbsp;Custom made manifold (he knows people) $200. &nbsp;Bosch BOV $35. &nbsp;Turbo Timer $30. &nbsp;Boost, EGT, and oil pressure gauges and pod $140. &nbsp;Pipeing can be made from radiator hoses and an exhaust shop can make a downpipe for $100ish. &nbsp;That is like 6.8 psi (stock internally gated boost pressure from a z31) for $805. &nbsp;But the stock fuel system can't handle near 7psi, so you gotta somehow lower the internal wastegate pressure, or add injectors and JWT ecu for another $800ish, and then you have a barebones $1600 turbo system. &nbsp;How do you think you can do your setup for $2k. &nbsp;Please let me know, so I can pass it on to him. &nbsp;
-Jeff

[Jeff240sx]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (luey02 @ May 03 2002,5:11)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Jeff240sx @ May 03 2002,2:38)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">On a side note, I think I will have 5 gauges. 3 in a HKS Din-sized panel and stick it in the slot under the radio, and 2 on the a-pillar. The A-pillar will be the most looked at ones, BOOST, and Oil Pressure. Cuz a gain or loss in either will blow a car up. Then in the Din Panel will be a Fuel pressure, EGT, and Oil Temp.
-Jeff</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
wouldn't the engine blow from changing fuel pressure? are you talkin about detonation from lean/rich? if so, isn't a a/f gauge more important? Please enlighten me with your knowledge. Also explain other gauges too..(like effects of high exhause temp)</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Sorry, I was quoting in my last post, and couldn't read this post to answer. &nbsp;
I would like to have redundant systems in my car, just incase. &nbsp;Cuz I like my $3k turbo and $10k car. &nbsp;And I like to drive it.
Anyway, a breakdown of gauges and what they do.
Boost - Duh
Oil Pressure - If a line blows, the oil pressure will drop. &nbsp;If you keep driving without oil pressure, you have now cooked your turbo, and possibly seize the engine. &nbsp;If it increases (dunno how it would) it would blow a headgasket.
Fuel Pressure - Just like to know.
EGT - Exhaust Gas Temp. &nbsp;Kinda like a A/F meter, but I think it's better. &nbsp;An A/F meter goes by a scale of 11 - 17 or so, and is hard to tell how your engine is running. &nbsp;But exhaust gasses can change by tens of degrees really quickly, and thus would be easier to read and rely on. &nbsp;If the gasses get hotter, you are running lean. &nbsp;And if the temp gets colder, you are running too rich.
Finally, the Oil Temp. &nbsp;Since our cars are 3.5 quart + filter in oil capacity, we have one of the smallest oil capacities per liter of engine that I have EVER seen. &nbsp;And a turbo is going to increase that temperature by at LEAST 20 degrees Celsius. &nbsp;And anything over that would necessitate the use of an oil cooler, that isn't in my planned 3-month budget. &nbsp;And if it rises extremely fast, it is a backup, and means I am probably loosing oil from somewhere and my other REALLY IMPORTANT gauge is not functioning properly.
If you have any other questions / comments / complaints on this post, post here. &nbsp;Also, if you have any ideas of other gauges I would need, let me know.
-Jeff

[rancid240]

if he can get SOHC manifolds, i'm interested for $250. he can keep the $50 profit.

one question that i've been pondering...once you ahve the turbo and manifold bolted in, wont you have to tow your car to the muffler place to get a downpipe made?

[Jeff240sx]

Nah. &nbsp;I intend to hook up some flex hose, or if it will work nicely, 2 45* or 90* bent exhaust pipes from AutoZone, and hook them together, and let it run open, just before the cat. &nbsp;And drive 45 miles like that to the mandrel bending shop in Sarasota. &nbsp;Hopefully not getting a sound pollution violation on the way.
-Jeff

[sykikchimp]

ok.. lets modify the list with prices for the Initial setup:

Stock injectors ~Free
Walbro Fuel pump ~$115
Vortech 10:1 FMU ~$140
T3/T4 from Buick Grand National ~$350
Tial 35mm Wastegate - ~$250
Need a custom manifold I want to spend $200-300. &nbsp;Can you help? &nbsp;Thing is, the GN manifold flange is a 3 bolt center inlet.

Custom downpipe w/ flange made to cover wastegate. ~$100
Intake piping I could make myself out of several prebent pipes and elbows for ~$50
Random Hose's connectors, and fittings ~$150
~~**Can you tell me where your getting these:
Bosch BOV ~$35
Turbo Timer ~$30
Gauges ~$140
I'm Contemplating leaving out the Intercooler initially, b/c I'll only be running 7psi max

total = $1660

Depending on if I can run the internal wastegate, I could drop the tial, and it would cost $1410

[sykikchimp]

I found some T3's from ford thuinderbirds for 250 too...

[mbmbmb23]

-Jeff240SX

Ooops.....missed the part about "under $2000".....thanks for not flaming me for that. &nbsp;Under $2000 huh....well.....scratch off all the "internal engine mods" I listed. &nbsp;I was a little helpful....he's got a BOV on the list now <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>




-M

[Jeff240sx]

Do you have money now? &nbsp;Just part to buy a few things off ebay? &nbsp;Cuz here are some decent items to think about getting.
For the gauges, I was thinking the 3 that you were looking at, AutoMeter, and $40 each, with a $20 gauge pod.
Tips on MAKING you Bov.
DIY BOV #1 (http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/blowoff.html) &nbsp; DIY BOV #2 (http://www.udnet.net/~pauls/bov.htm)
Here are places that sell a bosch bov unit.
Compu Parts &nbsp;
Jackson, New Jersey &nbsp;
1-888-779-7710
~$27.50 plus shipping
ABJ Auto Supply &nbsp;
Mention SOGI &nbsp;
1-888-885-3500 / (617) 776-2978 &nbsp;
~$25 total!

The only way that I could help with a manifold is by giving you my s14 header, if you have an s14, and letting them cut mine apart and weld on to it saving you downtime vs. using yours. &nbsp;But RH manifolds are $400+
If you're looking at a t3/4 from a grandnational, you should really think about boosted's. &nbsp;You dont know how the GN was taken care of, and how many miles, but I am sure boosted know everything about his turbo. &nbsp;But its not internal wastegated.
Turbo Timer. &nbsp;
Build Your Own Turbo Timer (http://members.attcanada.ca/~mcguinne/timer.htm) (Have good knowledge of Electronics.)
$30.00 turbo timer with 20 hours remaining (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1825149839&r=0&t=0)
But yeah, check ebay for cheap electronics. &nbsp;Like I paid $113 for a $160 turbo timer there <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>
Anything else?
-Jeff

[sykikchimp]

$550 is more than I want to spend on a turbo, otherwise I Probably would pick it up.

I need a manifold.. &nbsp;ugg.. &nbsp;I read some really crappy stiff about the revhard off FA so I think I might try to stay away from that..

Thanks for the other info too! &nbsp;That helps.

[rotaryknight]

If you are gettin a A/F meter donot get the Autometer one....it's just a bunch of moving lights.

The only A/F gauge that is worth buying is the Tomei. &nbsp;It's truetime analog so you can see how your exhaust gas is really moving...how fast it gets to lean.

This is comming from a FD owner where a/f is way more important than on any other car.

[Jeff240sx]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (sykikchimp @ May 04 2002,4:10)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I need a manifold.. ugg.. I read some really crappy stiff about the revhard off FA so I think I might try to stay away from that..</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Yeah. &nbsp;A few people have had it crack.
When I ordered my turbo and manifold from DA, they said that there was a backorder on the revhard manifolds, because they were redesigning them. &nbsp;I have seen pictures of the old manifolds, and mine, and mine seems to be a lot thinker, and not as large. &nbsp;
And I was thinking about how they crack. &nbsp;It seems really hard to. &nbsp;They are cast iron and one-piece construction. &nbsp;And 7 psi isn't really too much pressure. &nbsp;I can hold my finger over my friends boost controller line, which is 8 psi. &nbsp;And it doesnt take ANY effort at all. &nbsp;So I really don't know. &nbsp;Perhaps they were running lean and heated the manifold WAY up then it got splashed with water or something and cracked. &nbsp;I just don't know, but by the looks of mine, it will be with me for a while.
-Jeff

[s15dude]

I'm not sure how much it will cost (around $200-$300), but my dad and I are going to make a log style manifold for the DOHC motor. &nbsp;After I am done with school (may 15th), I am going to start working on this. Custom flanges should not be that hard to make, I will keep you all updated in the next few weeks. If someone near San Diego has a SOHC car and needs a manifold, we could do that too, but you would need to come to our shop so we could make a templete from your stock exhaust manifold.

[sykikchimp]

http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/thk.html

Its a Log manifold kit .. Seems like a better/cheaper alternative to a Revhard. &nbsp;Just have to find a welder..

[s15dude]

Thats pretty much what I plan on making, but I will be making all of the componets myself. Cool info though, I would recomend going to a highly skilled welder for that, cuz if you don't do a good job, the welds can crack/break.

[Jeff240sx]

Thats basically what the new revhard manifolds look like. &nbsp;The finished part. &nbsp;Anyway... good luck sourcing the parts... and keep me posted on it, either AIM "Sleek S14" or PM.
-Jeff

[Jeff240sx]

Uno mas cosa.
About the turbo timers Chimp...
Check here: Greddy Turbo Timer (http://www.zilvia.net/f/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=4;t=9387)
That is $40 and in the FS section on Zilvia. &nbsp;
-Jeff

[9591]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (rotaryknight @ May 04 2002,2:18)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">If you are gettin a A/F meter donot get the Autometer one....it's just a bunch of moving lights.

The only A/F gauge that is worth buying is the Tomei. It's truetime analog so you can see how your exhaust gas is really moving...how fast it gets to lean.

This is comming from a FD owner where a/f is way more important than on any other car.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
So I'm presuming you also replaced your O2 sensor with a wideband one, and a compatible controller? Cuz that's the only way you're gonna get more accurate readings.

[sykikchimp]

I've heard that a Voltage meter can actually tell you a much more clear picture than an A/F meter