Road Race setup/ Track pics

[WhiteGLX]

This is one of many past track days in preparation for SRX in the not-so-distant future.

If anyone has anyadvice for a track setup with an S13, advice is welcome, but please dont come on here and tell me how to drive and that there is one way to setup a racecar. I have been researching the setup, talked to many true race car drivers and builders at the tracks and shops. I knwo what i want and i know what i need to put all the power down. But for now, these are just some fun pics :-D

view with non-race wheels on
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAyMjYzOTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

front shot
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAyMjY0MDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

My oil cooler off of a small Piper aircraft (4x4x6 bisches)
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAyMjY0MTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Nice rear shot
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAyMjY0MjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Switch Panel and Gauges
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAyMjY0MzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Dirty Interior
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAyMjY0NjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

My setup may not have the best suspension, or a ton of power, but i can deff. say its got enough power and good enough handling on the road course to make me happy, and to keep away from the mildly modded Evo's

I rewired the entire car to a Painless Switch panel, eliminating what seemed like 40lbs of wiring. I gutted the entire interior of the car (except the tar sh#t). I removed all the PS elements, and put in a breather system to keep the rack lubricated. A catch can was installed instead of the tiny filter most use. The car is setup for reliability, and ease of repair. Racing puts alot more abuse on an engine than any other kind of driving, because its so prolonged.

[WhiteGLX]

Dirty Interior
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAyMjY4ODZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Back seat & Battery
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAyMjY4OTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

S14 seats, and Manual seat belts (note the "oh [censored]!" handle)
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAyMjY5MDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Fuel Pump wiring & Battery
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAyMjY5MTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Engine bay...something is missing?
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAyMjY5MjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

What fuse box??
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAyMjY5MzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

What Relay box?
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAyMjY5NDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

What Power steering pump?
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAyMjY5NTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

OH!!!! Thats the sandwich plate...i had it all wrong before
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAyMjY5NjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

nice lil side shot
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAyMjY5NzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Stickers me thinks
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAyMjY5ODZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Interior shot...again
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAyMjY5OTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Leave comments here, track pics will be up soon. Suggestions are welcome, although not always takin :). This car has been to VIR, Mid-Ohio, Summit point, and soon to have driven Beaverun raceway labor day weekend. Each event i get a lil faster, each event i get a lil more confident pushing the car harder, each event.....i wish i had wider wheels than the 300zx rims with Falken Azenis i run now.

[WhiteGLX]

FINALLY TRACK PICS FROM BEAVERUN!!!!!

ENJOY!!!!!!

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTA3MTM1NTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTA3MTM1NzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTA3MTM1ODZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTA3MTM1OTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTA3MTM2MjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTA3MTM2NDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTA3MTM2OTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTA3MTM3NzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTA3MTM4MTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTA3MTM4MjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

also rebuild pics will be up eventually, as soon as my parts begine to show up....just basic new seals and rings, but alot of aviation engineering put to use on reassemly of this road course engine.....track abuse has rattled stuff loose over time, but not anymore once im all done with it. :)

[019]

awesome project. i assume you know this, but just in case, aren't you supposed to have the headlight cover on there to compete in srx? what do you plan to do about that?

[sleedawg]

one suggestion that i give a lot of people w. gutted interiors would be to put some padding on the drivers door where your arm may hit bare metal in an accident. i learned the hard way at Sears Point when i got pushed off track during a race and my arm banged up against the door. got the scar as a daily reminder.

in regards to setup. (i know you already know this) it all depends on your suspension/tire selection, drivers taste/style, track and track conditions. there's just too many variables to just throw out a setup. just set the ride height (corner weights) and camber/toe settings to something very neutral and adjust to your liking. i'm sure you know what you're doing on track and will know if the car is handling evil.

good luck. avoid the red mist. and remember at the end of the day it's all about having fun and being able to drive home.

[WhiteGLX]

My setup is all based on my lack of funds for now...

but my future setup over time will consist of:
*suspension - Buddy Club Race Spec Dampners
*Wheels - 5-Zigen FNO1RC 17x10
*Tires - Toyo RA1 275/45R17
*Power - 370whp at 16psi (not going to let out my power setup tho)
*6pnt cage - weld in custom fitted to me
*interior - Sparce EVO2 seats, all mechanical/electrical gauges. (no stock)

And as for the headlight..Ill be putting the cover back on eventually, as soon as i can switch to the DOHC front bumper with a nice lip, so i have somewhere else ot put my oilcooler (passenger side behind vent). all ducted prettiness off those vents and turns signal locations. The oil cooler will have a scoop going to it after the winter season, as a temporary thing but fully function to bring my oil temp number downa lil bit.

I have read the rule books for SE-R SRX, NASA CCR quite a bit, but for now, HPDE's will be my main priority until i get to the competition level. We all know, nothing can replace seat time, plus i need to progress with my car slowly, as of now im outdriving my suspension and tires, so i upgrade tires now, adn suspensioin and wheels when i can afford them. Being a full tiem college student going for a bachelors degree, fundign this expensive hobby is much harder then most think, 21 credits per semester puts a nice lil dent in your funds.

Thanks for the questions guys and the advice, btw...the doors are covered now, with aluminum falshing. Kepp all questions and comments comming, ill answer everything to the bets of my ability.

[Flybert]

I have a question for you. Which Painless wiring kit did you get and how long did it take you to wire it up? I'm having some wiring problems right now with my car and I'm seriously considering picking up one of those kits so I can fix it, and to get rid of the fuse boxes and excess wiring. I have a base model s13 as well and my headlights are welded up so I don't have to worry about having a function for the headlight motors.

[WhiteGLX]

i picked it out of a catalog at an A&A automotive here at school, a guy there gave me a discount. Its a 6 switch panel, 1 momentary start switch, the other 5 switches are fused. The fuel pump fuse is wired to the ignition switch, so you can run the fuel pump with the ignition off. The actual part number im not sure of. Its a panel for a drag car basically, or a Universal setup.

Time spent.....wow......i actually couldnt say, i spent a rediculous amount of time stripping the stock chasis harnmess down to just the fuel pump/gauge and brake light wires. And even more time designing the circuits that i used for Starter, Ignition, Alternator. I had to read over all the gauge cluster BS wiring diagrams extensivly to findout which wires i had to keep to keep them runnign andlit up, but get rid of all the stupid warning lights in there. Mostly it was time spent tracing wires through the factory harness, strippin git down to nothing and reading almost all the wiring diagrams for the systems i wanted to keep or wire in. Overall time was about.....2 weeks or more while having a full time job.

[Flybert]

I was under the impression you bought a painless wiring kit that comes with all the wires and fuse boxes as well as having that switch panel. Where did you put the stock fuse boxes and relays?

[WhiteGLX]

"Where did you put the stock fuse boxes and relays?"
In the garbage where they belong

1 fuse for ignition (ECU power)
1 fuse for fuel pump
1 relay for fuel pump

thats all of it.....and the 2 fuses are on the switch panel, just like in the picture, and the fuel pump relay is in the trunk.

i have no stock funtions, no blinkers, no headlights, to back up lights, no radio, no retractable seat belts, no horns, no fans, no AC, no defrost, no more anythign, car had absolutly no wiring in it for about 2 weeks till i finished making my own harness

the painles s kit is a switch panels with 18' of labeled wire comming out of it for each of the switchs functions or what ever you want them to do. I integrated that with some of the stock wiring and everything works great, its been runing electrical problem free since June

[DJPimpFlex]

impressive. I'm about 20% done with doing almost the same thing, well a bit more lax. I'm just taking out interior wiring and such, but I make up for the weightloss in other places. Gutted doors (metal is cut out), no windows (i have 2 sets of doors), removed the tar, no dash, no ceter console, no carpet at all, no passenger seat. The shit I've taken out of this car is rediculious. I would venture to guess that its sub 2200 range. I still need to get it weighed. I lost somewhere near 40lbs a door with the metal, motors, and glass. Fuckin great! Good work man!

[WhiteGLX]

my car with it down to how it is now..weighed in at 2400 lbs ona 1/4 tank of gas, I know the door metal weighs a bit, and so does the tar, but i can honestly say i dont see these cars getting under 2300 lbs. I know i can get down close to that, after i remove the tar, go carbon fiber hood, take out my heating systems that doesnt work anymore, and gut the doors. Then the cage im getting will bring me back up to 2400lbs, and i wont see weights less then that. There are people who claim to be under 2200, unless you have staretd cutting metal from inside the car and running it ghetto as all hell, it just cant happen, keep it clean and functional and safe while also making it light.

My car was weighed on Longacher scales at Beaverun 2 weeks ago (FR-750lbs, FL-750lbs, RR-450lbs, RL 450lbs), my corner weights arnt exact, but to the best of my knowledge that was the weight bias. Truck stops dont count as scales, very inaccurate with low weights (like a car compared to a tractor-trailor full of shit)...

[KA24DESOneThree]

That oil cooler can't be doing much. If you need an oil cooler, an upgrade is in order because honestly that one won't cut it. You'll also have to locate it in an area that sees more airflow through the cooling surface.

I don't see anything really wrong with your battery placement, but it's a bit high. Other than that, it's over the axle so it doesn't really increase polar moment and it certainly helps f/r and l/r weight distribution. Since the car seems to be a purpose-built track car, why not put the battery lower, like in the passenger side rear footwell? That way your polar moment is decreased by a pretty hefty amount, not to mention your cG will go down a bit. You'll lose a little bit by way of rearward weight bias percentage but the l/r advantage will stay the same.

What are your alignment specs right now? It seems like you're having rollover problems with the tires despite the fact that they have stiff-as-hell sidewalls. What pressures are you running cold?

[Flybert]

I would venture to guess that its sub 2200 range.

You have been posting the most ridiculous shit lately. First, putting your car up for sale for $17,000 and now saying that your car is sub 2200.

A base model s13 coupe (no heavy hatch glass or sunroof) with no bumper supports, sound deading stripped, backseats removed, no AC, and manual belts comes in at about the mid 2400's. You are saying your car is 250-300 lbs lighter than that because you removed your dash, your door glass, and side impact beams. See where I'm going with this? Stop dreaming.

[WhiteGLX]

That oil cooler can't be doing much. If you need an oil cooler, an upgrade is in order because honestly that one won't cut it. You'll also have to locate it in an area that sees more airflow through the cooling surface.

Oh well i posted my issue with the oil coler about 5 posts back, i have it in the headlight because there is no where else to put an oil cooler that is 4" think, i knw i know, the pics make it look 1" thick like the average oil cooler. As soon as i feel liek switching over to the DOHC bumper that has teh extra vents, ill move the cooler down under the factory battey location, and duct it and everything. And its deff enough, who would ever want to upgrade a 5"H X 6"L x 4"T oilcooler?


I don't see anything really wrong with your battery placement, but it's a bit high. Other than that, it's over the axle so it doesn't really increase polar moment and it certainly helps f/r and l/r weight distribution. Since the car seems to be a purpose-built track car, why not put the battery lower, like in the passenger side rear footwell? That way your polar moment is decreased by a pretty hefty amount, not to mention your cG will go down a bit. You'll lose a little bit by way of rearward weight bias percentage but the l/r advantage will stay the same.

Thats where i had the battery located when i was driving the caron the street full interior and with shit rolling around my trunk, and i just havnt had the time to relocate it, a bit of a hassle when i have a few extras that run off of it, cause i dont wanna mess with my wiring again. I have is passenger side to makeup up for when its just me, and i have it rearward to help with traction, because im already having issues with it, as i said in earlier posts.



What are your alignment specs right now? It seems like you're having rollover problems with the tires despite the fact that they have stiff-as-hell sidewalls. What pressures are you running cold?

Alignment is the factory specs, according to the alignment bay at my old place of business. Tire flex is due to a smaller tire being on the rim. NOt streched, but just not wide enough (itll be corrected before my next event with RA1's). I am running about 38psi hot, cold its like 32-34 i think, i adjusted them hot, havnt touched them since the last event, hard to recall the specifics. Rollover problem is not bue to the tires, its because i am running KYB shocks and Tein springs, apparently they dont get as stiff as they need to be for track racing, so those will get upgraded when i have the funds for it. (Buddy-Club Race Spec dampner).


All questions are welcome, but please read a little everyone before you tell me what you think i need to change, or look at the pictures a little more closely. I dont like repeting myself too often. Almost all the answers these questions are in the pics or already responded to. Keep them commin if i dont have anything on it tho.....

[WhiteGLX]

You have been posting the most ridiculous shit lately. First, putting your car up for sale for $17,000 and now saying that your car is sub 2200.

A base model s13 coupe (no heavy hatch glass or sunroof) with no bumper supports, sound deading stripped, backseats removed, no AC, and manual belts comes in at about the mid 2400's. You are saying your car is 250-300 lbs lighter than that because you removed your dash, your door glass, and side impact beams. See where I'm going with this? Stop dreaming.


flybert please leave bickering with his FS ad, i dont want a fued here wasting space. I already said i dont htink it can ever get that light, and i have actually weighed my car on good scales, not just a hunch, 2200 would leave the car undriveable, and deff not safe to be in while driving it.

[driftstyre]

Just a side note, a complete S13 door will weigh in at over 60 lbs. A stripped door with latch and outside handle is under 10 lbs. The impact beam is 3/16 steel and is probably about 25 lbs. That oil cooler needs to be relocated also, air just skims over the top. Think of the air as really stubborn. If you don't pimp it as hard as possible, it won't do what you want it to. Give it no other choice but to go through your cooler. That location would be fine if you made a completely sealed duct from the lower bumper up to the bottom of the cooler.

[WhiteGLX]

im making a scoop from the top, itll attach to the hood and force air down through it, and ill duct the air back out the bottom for now until i get to my other setup. I have gone over the relocating of the cooler later in my race setup many times, pelase read over them.

The door situation is, most racing series dont let you remove the main door support, unless its AutoX, because of other cars on track, id like my door to have some ability to stay togeather if it gets bumped. I am moving at speeds more then 2 times that of the autoX 240 guys, so havign a waeak door is not somethign i suggets to people in road racing unless you have a full cage. And personally, i dont see any of the guys here making their doors as light as possible using a roll cage or door bars for that matter. Ill take out the windows and such when i get my cage in over the summer, but until then i need it there to brace myself till i get seats which ids after the cage for safety issues. As light as possible is not always the best decision, like i said before as long as its safe i support the dea, otherwise dont argue it here.

[WhiteGLX]

PEOPLE READ ABOUT THE OIL COOLER STUFF IN PREVIOUS POSTS!!!!!

LOOK AT THE PICTURES AND READ BEFORE YOU MAKE SUGGESTIONS!!!!!

its the same stuff over and over.......

[nlzmo400r]

im assuming you're running n/a 300zx non staggered wheels correct? (16x7.5 45offset). What size azenis are you running? I haven't road raced on my new tires yet, and because of hte hurricanes haven't even been able to autox on them either, but I run 255/40/17 falken azenis rt615s all around on 17x8.5 wheels w/ 25offset and find they stick very well. Just curious how they'd hold up on faster courses (90plus mph)

[WhiteGLX]

120+ mph courses :) (fastes course i was on, im guesstimating i was up around 140mph) The Azenis Sports hold up you just cant expect them to be 100% once they heat up or if its a hot day(Hot day = 120 deg track temps). I slide every single corner, not alot, but enough to get me through them with out sliding off track. Ive driven the car hard enough to anticipate the slide, so i turn in early, and teh car slides around the corner to give me the better line at high speeds, but thats not the way to do it. Oh and i cant accelerate through the corners, ill spin out in a heart beat, so im only on teh throttle like 30% until i wind out more, then i can get on it more. I have heard alot of good things about the 615's but never got to run them, im moving right up to 225/50R16 Toyo RA1's for next season, i need the traction badly, my track times will drop dramatically if i can actually accelerate through the corners, a 1/4 sec each corner cut off is alot in the end of a bigger track, because itll change my exit speed and my overall top speed down the straits.

[KA24DESOneThree]

Oh well i posted my issue with the oil coler about 5 posts back, i have it in the headlight because there is no where else to put an oil cooler that is 4" think, i knw i know, the pics make it look 1" thick like the average oil cooler. As soon as i feel liek switching over to the DOHC bumper that has teh extra vents, ill move the cooler down under the factory battey location, and duct it and everything. And its deff enough, who would ever want to upgrade a 5"H X 6"L x 4"T oilcooler?

You're the one who created the packaging issues by hanging that intercooler out front in a stock bumper. Besides, that oil cooler is made for a PLANE. You know, 70mph stall speed and 120+mph cruising with positive airflow at much lower ambient temps.

Thats where i had the battery located when i was driving the caron the street full interior and with shit rolling around my trunk, and i just havnt had the time to relocate it, a bit of a hassle when i have a few extras that run off of it, cause i dont wanna mess with my wiring again. I have is passenger side to makeup up for when its just me, and i have it rearward to help with traction, because im already having issues with it, as i said in earlier posts.

You're having issues with traction because you upgraded power before suspension and tires. You REALLY, REALLY should've done suspension either first or at the same time.

Alignment is the factory specs, according to the alignment bay at my old place of business. Tire flex is due to a smaller tire being on the rim. NOt streched, but just not wide enough (itll be corrected before my next event with RA1's). I am running about 38psi hot, cold its like 32-34 i think, i adjusted them hot, havnt touched them since the last event, hard to recall the specifics. Rollover problem is not bue to the tires, its because i am running KYB shocks and Tein springs, apparently they dont get as stiff as they need to be for track racing, so those will get upgraded when i have the funds for it. (Buddy-Club Race Spec dampner).

Tire flex is due to your lack of negative camber and lack of pressure. 34 is pretty low on the Azenis Sport. A smaller tire than designated on the rim would have REDUCED flex, not increased flex. You immediately disagree with yourself by saying the flex is not because of the tires, but the suspension. Which is it, according to you?

All questions are welcome, but please read a little everyone before you tell me what you think i need to change, or look at the pictures a little more closely. I dont like repeting myself too often. Almost all the answers these questions are in the pics or already responded to. Keep them commin if i dont have anything on it tho.....

Bold was me.

You made the classic mistake. You went for power and ended up forsaking the chassis. Now you complain that you can't go as fast as you want. Suck it up and realize that it's your own fault. That's my opinion of your setup. The race car guys you talked to didn't say a negative word because they were being polite. I guarantee they looked at each other after you left and said "what the hell was he thinking, doing power first?" There isn't just one way to set up a race car, but undertiring the car is certainly wrong.

By the way, 225s won't cut it. You'll need 245s or bigger. I hope you aren't incredibly fond of stock bodywork.

[WhiteGLX]

Bold was me.

You made the classic mistake. You went for power and ended up forsaking the chassis. Now you complain that you can't go as fast as you want. Suck it up and realize that it's your own fault. That's my opinion of your setup. The race car guys you talked to didn't say a negative word because they were being polite. I guarantee they looked at each other after you left and said "what the hell was he thinking, doing power first?" There isn't just one way to set up a race car, but undertiring the car is certainly wrong.

By the way, 225s won't cut it. You'll need 245s or bigger. I hope you aren't incredibly fond of stock bodywork.


wow.......i didnt go for big power, 230whp is hardly big, im not complaining about any of it at all so there is nothign to suck up. I enjoy every second on track with an underpowered wide tired car or an overpower undertired car. And telling me the race guys were talkin shit behind my back, not cool. I ask for advice they give it to me, real advice not the BS your posting. :) you obviously dont understand tires that well, its not the size of the tire that means everything, teh Falken Azenis Sports that i was runngin are not enough now on teh track, when i was not moving as fast as i am now, they were enough, so now it is time to upgrade to only a slightly larger tire....but a different compound. The Falken Azenis are good track tires for an underpowered car, but th Toyo RA1's are a DOT approved R-Compound tire, MUCH different chacteristics than teh Azenis, MUCh better in every single aspect except wear maybe. a 225 wide r-compound tire with 230 whp will be plenty until i can afford to go with the suspension, wheel and tire setup i have planned for competition.

There is no need to tell me to suck anything up or deal with anything, i didnt critisize you at all when i responded to your post on here, simply explaining the setup. At least do some research on the tires i have on the car and the ones ill be running before you say one wont be enough for a certain setup. Or find out exactly what true race car builders have told me before you tell me they were callin me stupid for the order i did things. There is no eed to be so defensive, its ok, just make sure you know exactly what is expected of a race car and a budget and when you do finally know, deal with it.

[kapower]

I have played around with my alignment for the last 3 years, as of now I only auto cross, but here are my specs...

The car is a 91 hatchback, w JIC flta'2s 7/5kg/mm spring rates. 15x7 + 0 offset w/225/45/15's victoracer's (econo racers!) White line sway's front and rear with custom fabricted spherical endlinks (BTW the endlinks make a huge difference, much much more predictable...). 50% spherical bearings 50% poly... (soon to be all metal)

Front camber) 3.7 negative ___ rear camber) 2.3 negative ... I have never been on a skid pad, but tire temp's are pretty even. I think you will need more or less camber depending upon Tires, and wheel rates. I have heard of other's running 5+ degrees up front and 3+ in the rear, but that effects braking.

Front toe) 1/16-1/8" toe out helps turn in, makes the car much more responsive.
Rear toe) 0 degrees__ I tried a little toe out a couple of times now, and the car is way to unpredictable, I don't recomend it. Toe in will help the car get the power down and help stabalize the car. I tried up to 1/8-3/8 toe in, which definetly stabalize's the car, but I like my car fairly twitchy for auto X'ing.

Well thats my setup, hope that helps -Jason M

P.S improvedtouringforum.com- look in the nissan section... thoose guy's know about the 240...Bob stretch did well with his 240 in ITA. You really need spherical bearings all the way around if you want to be competitive, reducing suspension bind is a big deal with 240's. (we have lots of bushings) Stretch ran on Advanced design double adjustle struts, with I believe GC's. Some (and possibly most) of the ITA guy's run without a rear bar, they say it make's the car more predictable...

[WhiteGLX]

anmd now ill respond to all the lil things...

the oil cooler was free and will work just fine no matter what, its the same design as any other oilcooler, just 3x as thick. Current placement is becasue there is no other location with the bumper i got from the junkyeard that is on the car in the pictures, when i get the 91-94 bumper ill move the cooler to a better location, since i am moving at over 120+ mph on the straits of some courses, the cooler will get more than enough airflow over it. Cooler explained.

I DO have an upgraded suspension that works good for track time now, due to my limited budget. Traction is not the blame of the suspension, but the suspension and tires, i carry alot of momentum through teh runs and the suspension comrpeses alot(even tho its set to full stiff) , causing the body to roll and the tiures to be pushed a little further then they can handle. Which will cause the tire to flex, the Falken Azenis come with a very stiff sidewall, but with all the weight and momentum being forced to that corner of the car, its causing the tire to flex. I will NEVER strech a tire on a rim to reduce tir flex on the track, i dont care what anyone says, its not good to strech a tire ona track car, maybe a drift car, but not on the track, id rather use the tire to its fullest potential. Tire flex and suspension explained.

I dont HAVE to have negative camber, with a basic stock style suspension setup, im unabel to adjust camber the right way for a track car, which elminiates the possibility of using a basic camber kit, pillow-ball mounts are the right way to do it, but those are comming with the coilovers ill be getting in the future. My tire pressure is at 38psi hot, cold makes no difference becasue the tires are never cold when your on track, an person geared as much as yoruself towards suspension should know things like this. 40psi is suggested hot, but i prefer to run 38psi, the 40psi made the tire a little to hard for my liking.

Last but not least people..please knwo your info before you come on here telling me myse setup is wrong or i shoudl ahev done it thats or that way before, my budget is limited, so mods are limited to the not TOP-OF-THE-LINE products, deal with it, i did things in a specific order and will continure to do things in a specific order as my available funds come in. Keep questions comming, but please dont critisize my responses when i tell you how its setup ,or why its setup a certain way. I tell you why and you get defensive, no reason for all that just because its not your way. I apologize for my rant if it makes you angry, but i feel its neccessary because of the last poster getting all defensive and snappy with his response to my response.

[WhiteGLX]

I have played around with my alignment for the last 3 years, as of now I only auto cross, but here are my specs...

The car is a 91 hatchback, w JIC flta'2s 7/5kg/mm spring rates. 15x7 + 0 offset w/225/45/15's victoracer's (econo racers!) White line sway's front and rear with custom fabricted spherical endlinks (BTW the endlinks make a huge difference, much much more predictable...). 50% spherical bearings 50% poly... (soon to be all metal)

Front camber) 3.7 negative ___ rear camber) 2.3 negative ... I have never been on a skid pad, but tire temp's are pretty even. I think you will need more or less camber depending upon Tires, and wheel rates. I have heard of other's running 5+ degrees up front and 3+ in the rear, but that effects braking.

Front toe) 1/16-1/8" toe out helps turn in, makes the car much more responsive.
Rear toe) 0 degrees__ I tried a little toe out a couple of times now, and the car is way to unpredictable, I don't recomend it. Toe in will help the car get the power down and help stabalize the car. I tried up to 1/8-3/8 toe in, which definetly stabalize's the car, but I like my car fairly twitchy for auto X'ing.

Well thats my setup, hope that helps -Jason M

P.S improvedtouringforum.com- look in the nissan section... thoose guy's know about the 240...Bob stretch did well with his 240 in ITA. You really need spherical bearings all the way around if you want to be competitive, reducing suspension bind is a big deal with 240's. (we have lots of bushings) Stretch ran on Advanced design double adjustle struts, with I believe GC's. Some (and possibly most) of the ITA guy's run without a rear bar, they say it make's the car more predictable...


I like your setup, only thing is i havnt heard many good things about the JIC coilovers, but thats all i ahev heard, no experience here. I have never autocrossed, but i know the low speeds and sharp turns require a very touchy suspension setup. I plan to go with adjustable links with bushings, i need the bushings to absord some stress from the road (being that some courses are rougher than others). I havnt planned to run as much negative camber as you, maybe -2 deg all around. and for toe in/out, id like them at 0 becasue of the long banking turns i dont need the tires fighting each other at all for the speeds im moving at.

I have talked to a few ITS or ITA guys before at VIR, most of them ran a basically stock setup, with coilovers and pillow ball mounts, but im not sure about all the links, i never had time to sit down, they were busy prepping the car for the races or qualifying track times. They are good to talk to about the ideas of the suspension, but i cant relate to them 100% because i plan to push more than twice their wheel HP once i get to comeptition, which means i need differnet breke, and tire setup then them. But their knowledge of suspension has been and will be helpful. Thanks for your advice and setup of your car, good reference, thanks jason.

[kapower]

I think your off to a great start! Thanks for sharing your project online! I really enjoy folliwing projects involving 240's that actually see track time. keep us updated...

Why are you going with the Buddy club coil overs? Are they valved for race tires? I was told that none of the JDM coil overs are properly valved for race tires. Even the Zeal super functions say recomended for semi slick use.

I ended up going with the Jic's and they are amazing!!! Much better then my old KYB AGX RSR race spring set up, there was not enough travel up front I think I was riding the bump stops through the corners. I still think the GC's and advanced design option is the way to go, if you can afford it. double adjustable shocks are nice. -Jason M

[brainfood]

Bold was me.

You made the classic mistake. You went for power and ended up forsaking the chassis. Now you complain that you can't go as fast as you want. Suck it up and realize that it's your own fault. That's my opinion of your setup. The race car guys you talked to didn't say a negative word because they were being polite. I guarantee they looked at each other after you left and said "what the hell was he thinking, doing power first?" There isn't just one way to set up a race car, but undertiring the car is certainly wrong.

By the way, 225s won't cut it. You'll need 245s or bigger. I hope you aren't incredibly fond of stock bodywork.

Not sure what you mean by fan of stock bodywork? I put 285/20's on my car the other day with no rubbing just need the correct offsets. I would never run 20's on my car its a long story but 285's will fit under the stock rear fenders. I think 295's will.
I would have to agree with you though on power before setting the car up correctly. I am a much better drifter today than I would have been if I started with a high horsepower car. My car has a completly stock ka and I am doing almost everything before I do my swap and even after I swap the sr it will be almost completely stock with a stronger clutch and some bolt on's I would lots rather carry a lot of speed and be full throttle than have to modulate the clutch and throttle through the entire drift.

edit: go bigger than 225's you will regret it otherwise. With a stock ka I can spin 225/45-17 mich pilot sports all day long especially 2nd or 3rd gear drifts. if you want grip go to 245/45-16's

[WhiteGLX]

I think your off to a great start! Thanks for sharing your project online! I really enjoy folliwing projects involving 240's that actually see track time. keep us updated...

Why are you going with the Buddy club coil overs? Are they valved for race tires? I was told that none of the JDM coil overs are properly valved for race tires. Even the Zeal super functions say recomended for semi slick use.

I ended up going with the Jic's and they are amazing!!! Much better then my old KYB AGX RSR race spring set up, there was not enough travel up front I think I was riding the bump stops through the corners. I still think the GC's and advanced design option is the way to go, if you can afford it. double adjustable shocks are nice. -Jason M


I chose the Buddy-Clubs because i know alot fo Honda/Acurs guys that run them for road racing, and the shock dyno charts proved that there are big difference between all the settings on the shock. BUddy Club has been involved in road racing for years on end in Japan and in the US, they have the reputation I needed to decide on what suspension to use for competition. They are valved stronger then most other shock, and the added bonus, they have US distributor that can rebuild teh shocks in teh US in teh event of a blow out, i dont know anyother company that does that with "JDM" products.

I hope the JICs were better then the KYB setup......much more going on, KYB is very basic, but i would nto consider it good for track use at all, after all my track time on almost the same exact setup.

Everyone i know tries to suggest certain setups for my grip racing when compared to their drifting, its much different setups going, you guys want everythign as stiff as possibleso itll slide, i need mine to give a little or absorb a little so itll stick.

[WhiteGLX]

Not sure what you mean by fan of stock bodywork? I put 285/20's on my car the other day with no rubbing just need the correct offsets. I would never run 20's on my car its a long story but 285's will fit under the stock rear fenders. I think 295's will.
I would have to agree with you though on power before setting the car up correctly. I am a much better drifter today than I would have been if I started with a high horsepower car. My car has a completly stock ka and I am doing almost everything before I do my swap and even after I swap the sr it will be almost completely stock with a stronger clutch and some bolt on's I would lots rather carry a lot of speed and be full throttle than have to modulate the clutch and throttle through the entire drift.

edit: go bigger than 225's you will regret it otherwise. With a stock ka I can spin 225/45-17 mich pilot sports all day long especially 2nd or 3rd gear drifts. if you want grip go to 245/45-16's


I never plan to go wider than 275 all around, i make my own fender flares that rivet onto the existing fenders and give me an extra 1.75 inches of clearence on each corner to fit the 17x10's with the 275/40 series tries i plan to run for competition.

I used this car as a daily driver for about the past year driving to school work everything, I did the power because my first 240 had a blown motor so i swapped this in, then second 240 i got (this one) had a blown motor and a melted fusebox, so i fixed all that and slowly it got to the point is is today. I did mild suspension with grippy tires for how i have been driving on the track. I moved the tries up form the old ones i was driving on before, everyone seems to think that extreme traction is teh way to go with a track car, but to learn the car you have to actually learn what it can /cant do with or without traction. the small tires i used for the 4 track events this past year worked great, i dont complain, i simply say they werent enough for me to do my best. I am upgrading to the 225/50R16 Toyo RA1's, they are an R-COMPOUND TIRE!! VERY sticky for the track once heated up, i am not ment to go 100% throttle through every corner at every possible second, that not how you road race, so i dont need a relly wide tire yet until i upgrade my power some more. Drifting a a 245 tire is alot different from gripping with an r-compound, as around at race shops about r-compounds, for a car with my setup 225 is fine especially for the rim size i have (16x7.5). At the shop by me, some guy boughta 240 all setup for grip that came with brand new Toyo RA1's 245/40R17's, he traded them for soem used tres with far less traction so he could drift the car beasue the RA1's are way too sticky for drifting, so you need to realize that you 245 pilots are less sticky than my 225 RA1 R-Compounds, so a comparison cant be made between the two.


DRIFTERS PLEASE READ UP ON R-COMPOUND TIRES BEFORE YOU POST ABOUT MY TIRE CHOICES!!!!! SPECIFICALLY "Toyo RA1" TIRES!!!!!

[jmauld]

Can you share the shock dyno of the Buddy Clubs? Can they be rebuilt/revalved in the U.S.? When you turn the knob, are you adjusting both compression and rebound?

Sorry for all the questions. It's good to see people out there doing track days with their 240's. If you have a choice between throwing money at suspension parts or seat time, the seat time will always pay off more, it seems like you are already doing this!!

I have run 17x9 with 265 wide r-compounds and 15x8 with 225 wide compounds. I decided to stick with the 15's and 225's due to how the car responded so much crisper with the lower CG and less rotational weight. Of course, I also got better gearing (Only 156whp vs your 250hp) with the 15x8's so that was another deciding factor.

[agrabau]

That oil cooler man... oh.. man.

[WhiteGLX]

Can you share the shock dyno of the Buddy Clubs? Can they be rebuilt/revalved in the U.S.? When you turn the knob, are you adjusting both compression and rebound?

Sorry for all the questions. It's good to see people out there doing track days with their 240's. If you have a choice between throwing money at suspension parts or seat time, the seat time will always pay off more, it seems like you are already doing this!!

I have run 17x9 with 265 wide r-compounds and 15x8 with 225 wide compounds. I decided to stick with the 15's and 225's due to how the car responded so much crisper with the lower CG and less rotational weight. Of course, I also got better gearing (Only 156whp vs your 250hp) with the 15x8's so that was another deciding factor.

The knob adjusts rebound as far as i have been told, since they are only single valved. Yes they can be rebuilt in the US as of a year or two ago.

Shock Dyno:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTA3NDYwMTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Because ill be running bigger than stock brakes, and around 350whp for competition, i need at least a 275 series tires, and i cant use slicks (Hoosier track tries are not allowed) and the next best thing allowed in my class is the Toyo RA1's, so those in the 275 and no wider since i cant run wider than a 10" wide rim according to class rules for SE-R Cup SRX. more more needs bigger brakes which needs bigger stickier rubber.

What kind of track stuff have you done jmauld?

[WhiteGLX]

That oil cooler man... oh.. man.

Not a fan of the cooler location huh? Ive gone over hows its going to be changed many times, if you check on those, i feel it woill be up to par with the people who actually know about racing setups.

i do however wish to see more pics of the car in your Sig...if you dont mind giving me a link or just posting more pics.

[jmauld]

The knob adjusts rebound as far as i have been told, since they are only single valved. Yes they can be rebuilt in the US as of a year or two ago.

What kind of track stuff have you done jmauld?

I've only done a few HPDEs at VIR. I've been autocrossing for years though.

The fact that the Buddy Clubs only adjust rebound is very encouraging. I'm going to give them a call and see how much a rebuild cost is.

[agrabau]

I was just joking man. I saw that it was posted like a million times.

[WhiteGLX]

I've only done a few HPDEs at VIR. I've been autocrossing for years though.

The fact that the Buddy Clubs only adjust rebound is very encouraging. I'm going to give them a call and see how much a rebuild cost is.

I have no idea of rebuild cost, but the fact that they have it is an awesome thing to offer, especially in the states.


I was just joking man. I saw that it was posted like a million times.

good to see you read, thanks you, by the way, the work you guys do at your shop is freakin awesome, its the exact stuff i would love to start getting into if i wasnt to involved with school right now. I do alot of sheet metal work with gage pods for hondas, and i am learning composits this semester, and putting it to work by making fenderflares out of fiberglass. Id like to get some info about the SR youhave in the E30 and how te power feels and what all mods make the 380whp your making with it....

[KA24DESOneThree]

DRIFTERS PLEASE READ UP ON R-COMPOUND TIRES BEFORE YOU POST ABOUT MY TIRE CHOICES!!!!! SPECIFICALLY "Toyo RA1" TIRES!!!!!

:drama:

I'm giving up on you. Lost cause, because you won't listen worth shit.

Not only do you have no idea how much track time I have, but you don't know what my current profession is.

[WhiteGLX]

if you ahev all this track time and a job doin i dont knwo what, then you shouldnt be telling me tire width makes all the difference when compound wasnt ever brought up on your end. I said what i was going to do with my cooler numerous amounts of times, but you never read before you posted. And the chassis first before power, i explained myself, you jumped down my throat before asking me why it was setup that way instead of that i was all kinds of wrong. I felt it uneccessary to ask you anything about what you can do when you come on here and just bash the mysetup and assume people talk crap about me. If you have anything useful for me instead of just sayin that what i have is wrong then speak up instead of giving up. I dont wanna sit here and argue all day, id rather have good input from people then just stubborness.

I listen just fine, just not to people who say my ideas are bad without asking why i did it that way before hand.

If you dont have anything productive to say to me from here on out, then just dont bother.

[Rennen]

I like your setup, only thing is i havnt heard many good things about the JIC coilovers, but thats all i ahev heard, no experience here. I have never autocrossed, but i know the low speeds and sharp turns require a very touchy suspension setup. I plan to go with adjustable links with bushings, i need the bushings to absord some stress from the road (being that some courses are rougher than others). I havnt planned to run as much negative camber as you, maybe -2 deg all around. and for toe in/out, id like them at 0 becasue of the long banking turns i dont need the tires fighting each other at all for the speeds im moving at.

I have talked to a few ITS or ITA guys before at VIR, most of them ran a basically stock setup, with coilovers and pillow ball mounts, but im not sure about all the links, i never had time to sit down, they were busy prepping the car for the races or qualifying track times. They are good to talk to about the ideas of the suspension, but i cant relate to them 100% because i plan to push more than twice their wheel HP once i get to comeptition, which means i need differnet breke, and tire setup then them. But their knowledge of suspension has been and will be helpful. Thanks for your advice and setup of your car, good reference, thanks jason.


heh, instead of -2º of camber, you should try shooting for more than -5º. the Stretchmobile still holds many track records for an ITA car, and he was running far more than the usual camber... which brings me to the next point.

If you are serious about racing, and/or winning Spend money on a good data acquisition system before you start throwing money elsewhere. The data gathered from one 20 minute session can be worth more than a year's worth of racing without one, and when you add up all the entry fees/lodging/gas it is well worth the money.

I am just learning about racing myself, I have started crewing for an ITA 240SX (http://www.tlmotorsports.net/albums/2005ClubRacing/GIRAugust/Terec_Morgan-Willson/RunGroup1/PICT2222.JPG) that also needs to get it's setup ironed out. But from hints I have gotten from real racers, it has opened my eyes to how wrong everyone here is...

[WhiteGLX]

I never thorught about running that much camber with a 275 series tire.....seems a bit extreme to me. I need seat tiem no matter what and i knwo the geenral modification i need to get to competitiona nd actually be competative, but a datalogging system cant replace seat-time im sure it is awesome with helpign dial teh car in for competition, but until i get closer to that point, i dont see myself doing anything then slowly modifying the car and getting as much seat time as possible. Good idea, but not for me in these stages of my track time, prolly in the future.

[brainfood]

I never plan to go wider than 275 all around, i make my own fender flares that rivet onto the existing fenders and give me an extra 1.75 inches of clearence on each corner to fit the 17x10's with the 275/40 series tries i plan to run for competition.

I used this car as a daily driver for about the past year driving to school work everything, I did the power because my first 240 had a blown motor so i swapped this in, then second 240 i got (this one) had a blown motor and a melted fusebox, so i fixed all that and slowly it got to the point is is today. I did mild suspension with grippy tires for how i have been driving on the track. I moved the tries up form the old ones i was driving on before, everyone seems to think that extreme traction is teh way to go with a track car, but to learn the car you have to actually learn what it can /cant do with or without traction. the small tires i used for the 4 track events this past year worked great, i dont complain, i simply say they werent enough for me to do my best. I am upgrading to the 225/50R16 Toyo RA1's, they are an R-COMPOUND TIRE!! VERY sticky for the track once heated up, i am not ment to go 100% throttle through every corner at every possible second, that not how you road race, so i dont need a relly wide tire yet until i upgrade my power some more. Drifting a a 245 tire is alot different from gripping with an r-compound, as around at race shops about r-compounds, for a car with my setup 225 is fine especially for the rim size i have (16x7.5). At the shop by me, some guy boughta 240 all setup for grip that came with brand new Toyo RA1's 245/40R17's, he traded them for soem used tres with far less traction so he could drift the car beasue the RA1's are way too sticky for drifting, so you need to realize that you 245 pilots are less sticky than my 225 RA1 R-Compounds, so a comparison cant be made between the two.


DRIFTERS PLEASE READ UP ON R-COMPOUND TIRES BEFORE YOU POST ABOUT MY TIRE CHOICES!!!!! SPECIFICALLY "Toyo RA1" TIRES!!!!!

Wow you tottally missed all my points and disregarded me as an idiot because I said I drift. I road race also have for about 5 years. I sell tires for a living and fully understand what ra1's are I agree I like a little bit looser car when I drive because I like to rotate the car on the brakes and with a slight high speed dynamic drift. No countersteer so not a real drift just sliding it a tad to rotate it my steering work in a grip situation is very limited its just my style I have never personally run 245's but I know if I had an sr they would be on my car for both drift and grip. I am also the complete opposite when I drift most people run narrow or not so grippy tires when they drift or set the car up very loose. I like a road race setup with lots of grip because my drifts are generally a lot higher speed. Its all opinion and mine is run 245's on the track in reality the extra 20mm of section width is hardly noticable especially on lateral loads but in a straight line and corner exit you will enjoy the extra tire. Also it sounds like you are not trying to go as fast as the car is capable of, dont let the tires hold you back because you are scared of that thing.

[WhiteGLX]

oh im deffinitly tryin to go as fast as the car will take me, which is why im upgrading to r-compound and mildly wider tires on all four corners. I wont put a 245 series on a 7.5" wide rim, just wont fit right. So the 225 is the only logical choice expecially since ill be moving alot faster with the Toyos then i was withthe Falkens, im not scared of it at all. I already slide most corners becasue of the Falkens, if the Toyos grip and beter itll keep my speed up and i wont slid nearly as much, less friction = more speed in my book. I dont spin any tire in a strait line, i only start to spin then when im cornering tryin to get on the throttle more than 30%.

[brainfood]

Hrmm toyo recomends a 7.5-9" wide wheel I dont think I would personally run them on a 7.5" wheel because with the tire rolling over like that you are not getting much more if any contact patch then a 225. If it was on a wider wheel I would go with a wider tire you will love the 225's as opposed to the 205's and especially going with r-compound tires. Also might want to change your driving a little to help you get on the throttle earlier maybe try carrying a little more corner speed and then easing into the throttle a little bit smoother, or try extending your braking zone a little and then transfer the wieght back to the rear sooner. Its hard because I havnt seen you drive but it sounds like you are initiating an almost braking drift on every corner by transfering the wieght to the front and then turning in, which is a fine driving style but you may benifit from a staggered setup maybe 225's up front and 245's in the rear. Have you tried to get some twin turbo rear 300z wheels I think they are 8" and they run 245's stock on them. Where are you located? I can probably get you a pair of 300z wheels but they will be like $100 a piece I think. Which is prob kinda expensive.

[WhiteGLX]

i dont doa braking drift at all...i brake, turn in, slide the turn mildly while on throttle a tad, and i roll onto the trhottle as i unwind teh wheel, i would like to be abel to roll onto the throttle more overall when comming out of the turn. If i extend my braking distance itll slow me down way too much. Most places ont eh trcak i have always been told to not just let off throttle because it unsettles the car too much., especially going into a turn. Most of the sliding i have done is because of the Azenis i was running they were just too thin and not grippy enough once i get my speeds up, which is why i was switching to a mildly wider tire with a softer compound. I looked into a full set or rear 300zxtt wheels so i could have 16x8,5 in every corner, then i would run the 245's all around. But as of right nwo i have had trouble finding 2 of then, mush less 4 rears. So i deccided to hold off on that and just go with a 225 tire all aorund on stock NA 300zx wheels, itll be betetr for me to get used to for now anyways. Deff good advice, just much different from what i am used to, so it would be very difficult to get away from my old style and teachings.

[brainfood]

Like I said it is hard for me to say since I havnt seen you drive but I am sure you have plenty of good nasa instructors that are assigned to you in each state can give you advice especially if you can get someone to ride along with you. the new tires will help alot but thats the same style I use just no counter steer I like to rotate the car after braking when the wieght is still on my front tires and then throttle out.

[WhiteGLX]

just to clarify, my intructors are not in MD, they are at the track and assigned to me by NASA at each event in different states.

[WhiteGLX]

ok updates..... been LONG time....

*got the new pads in HAWK HP+ :)

*the ducitng is done for the v-mount, waiting the rest of installation.

*the bumpers (metal and plastic) have been modified approprietly

*and i got a set of used Hoosier S04's for my next few track events :)

*the hoosiers will mount to Mazda RX-7 FD wheels (16x8) with 1" spacers on 2.5" wheel studs front and rear, prolly with the fenders rolled a tad.

*and i have a new design for my switch panel and gauges...but that wont start until after this event...cause its too hot to even talk about right now :).

pics very soon, few days tops....i swear:)

[WhiteGLX]

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/DSCF4716.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/DSCF4723.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/DSCF4732.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/DSCF4779.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/DSCF4867.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/DSCF4857.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/DSCF4923.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/DSCF4961.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/DSCF4954.jpg

[Chasmoore04]

Steve knows what he is talking about.

[WhiteGLX]

Steve knows what he is talking about.


who is steve....and what did he say that he knows so much about?

[downshift_sideways]

damn..this is the most quoted thread i've ever seen in my life...ez guys ez now

[Broaner]

It was a while ago but I'd like to bring back up the weight issue. I definitely don't think the "sub 2200" coments should be disregaurded. Long ago i weighed my car in at 2240 with a 1/4 tank. This was with everything stripped to the normal degree. Since then I've taken it all a step further and I definitely hope to be in the sub 2200 club later this summer. Cages and such definitely ad the weight back but until you've taken the car to that bare bones stage I wouldn't be so quick to call out.

[WhiteGLX]

the only thing i have left to strip that i dont need...is the sound deadening off the interior and a few metal brackets which i dont think will add up to 200 more lbs i can lose. Im around 2350 now with 1/4 tank, and all the sound deadening and usles brackets will bring be to about 2300 before my cage, i still have heater core in and the dash.

I realize some peopel are going for the lightest weight possible, but i dont see what other weight can be lost other then the heatercore and the sound crap from everything I have already removed.

I am also curious to see what everyone else is using to weigh their cars on...i dont consider anything a reliable weight unless corner scales are used.

[Chasmoore04]

Steve is the guy that owns you.

[WhiteGLX]

Steve is the guy that owns you.


dont post here unless you have something relevent to current topic please....

trash talk over the internet is weak anyways, not proving anything, so keep off here unles syou have somethign to include about road racing, track setup for road racing, or anything along those lines.

[Broaner]

The heater core is significant. Does that also mean you still have all the HVAC ducting and blower motor? How 'bout the evaporator? I will be glad to prove my statements when I get my car driving in late May.

[WhiteGLX]

i have the heater core in, and the HVAC box with only ducting for windsheild defrost from teh blower motor, nothing extra. Its as basic a windsheild defrost setup can be without making my own ducting.

[suprmods]

power windows and the glass from both sides? wiper blades and motors? sound deadening could easily be 30 lbs on the interior, and if you wanted you could go under the car as well to take the underbody tar off as well.

you obviously arent that worried about a minimum weight, but there are ways to make your car loose 150lbs without cutting holes in the floor panels. Come the day when you are ready to compete wheel to wheel, you may feel the need to make the car lighter. Where there is a will there's a way.

[suprmods]

Also you really need to consider a way to adjust your alignment. The Hoosiers and Toyos respond very well to negative camber. With a stock setup you will not be using the most of the tire. Also tire roll over is not necessarily due to the tire, or the suspension. It can be a combination of the two, but it also has a large part due to the alignment. You could have a crappy suspension, and a crappy tire, but if you had enough negative camber, you wouldnt get alot of roll over. I would really try and find a camber kit or something just so you can get the most out of the Hoosiers.

Why buy $700 worth of tires, and only use $350 of it?? (not sure on the costs, but you get the idea)

[WhiteGLX]

power windows and the glass from both sides? wiper blades and motors? sound deadening could easily be 30 lbs on the interior, and if you wanted you could go under the car as well to take the underbody tar off as well.

you obviously arent that worried about a minimum weight, but there are ways to make your car loose 150lbs without cutting holes in the floor panels. Come the day when you are ready to compete wheel to wheel, you may feel the need to make the car lighter. Where there is a will there's a way.


manual windows, i need to keep them becuase hte car sits outside 365 days of the year unless its beign worked on. I am going to keep wipers for rainy day track events, i know everyone uses rainX but it hasnt beent eh best for me, so wipers stay. The soudn deadenign is all i have left to remove along with a few interior brackets, maybe 50lbs worth of stuff left. And that alli will remove because everything else (heater, wipers, dash) is for function.



Also you really need to consider a way to adjust your alignment. The Hoosiers and Toyos respond very well to negative camber. With a stock setup you will not be using the most of the tire. Also tire roll over is not necessarily due to the tire, or the suspension. It can be a combination of the two, but it also has a large part due to the alignment. You could have a crappy suspension, and a crappy tire, but if you had enough negative camber, you wouldnt get alot of roll over. I would really try and find a camber kit or something just so you can get the most out of the Hoosiers.

Why buy $700 worth of tires, and only use $350 of it?? (not sure on the costs, but you get the idea)

I have KYB shocks and Tein springs as of right now, they alright, but i just sinply cant afford to upgrade to the coilovers i want (Buddy Club Racing spec dampener). I have planned on getting a camber kit to mount up to get more negative camber, but right now all i have at most is about -1*. I dont recall saying anythign about tre roll over, just teh fact that my old Azenis were not good enough and have been heat cycled too many times and they were nolonger heating up properly to get any kind of traction out of them. The hoosiers were gotten so i can get used to somethign really grippy instea dof somethig made for lower powerd cars. Id liek to egt used to them before i go playing with camber setups.

oh and shhhhh, dont tell anyone, i got my hoosiers for 250, with only 2 autoX runs on them.

[WhiteGLX]

gauges and switch panel mounted...what do you guys think?

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/P4220074.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/P4220075.jpg


Bung for the oil temp mounted, pic is without sensor installed, but it is all snugged up now and not leaking....
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/P4210067.jpg


my V-mount brackets in view, oil cooler location, and a odd shot of my intake i have rigged up with a piece of leftover hotpipe from teh FMIC kit i used to run....
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/P4210068.jpg

[AceInHole]

Just thought I'd chime in on here on a few points:

Saw agrabau's BMW run at a Devens autocross (think it was last year?). Car sounded badass, but too bad it didn't pass noise level :( I personally liked the tow- setup more :P


As for camber: it'll depend a lot on how low/ stiff your car is. With the 9kg springs up front and whitelines on full stiff I was at about 4.5deg running the 275 Hoosiers. Same spring setup and slightly lower I was at just under 3 (going from memory) running 245 Victoracers. More grip = more roll = more camber, I guess (a lot of my setup was based on heat distribution).

As for tire, 225 RA-1's are definitely undersized for anything over stock (or bolt ons) power, IMO. Given, I have limited experience on RA-1's... but running low to mid boost on my old setup (good for around 200-220hp) with the 245's, I felt very limited. Halo ran a 225/ 245 RA-1 setup for a few (i think) autocross seasons and I'm pretty sure he wasn't too impressed with them (always had the "you've got the better tire setup" card when visiting NER :P).

As for tires on a 7.5" wheel: they'll fit fine, especially if they have some sidewall. I ran 245/45/R16's on z32 wheels for a long time before upgrading. A lot of stock class autocross cars will run an oversized tire as well. I might be running 275's on an 18x8 for instance (racing my daily driver while rebuilding my s14 this year).

As for suspension: Koni 28-series all the way :P Might go with revalved Yellows for my daily driver if I do Solo II Nationals with it (have an urge to invade the "pony car class" with my G) but looking at running a full race setup on my s14, although that'll be a trailered car. If you're going to be driving to/ from events, though, I'd bet a Ground-Control/ Koni Yellow (revalved/shortened or not) would be your best bet.

Finally, I like the theme of your interior, but for a full race car I would've done a cluster on the steering column. You don't need a speedo/ stock temp & fuel gauge for a race setup (well, fuel might be nice to know, but as long as you can see it at all even if not at a glance). I'm also hoping you're doing a full roll cage with side intrusion bars... especially if you're gutting the doors...

Anyways, nice build up and updates! Hope you get everything sorted out, regardless of flames and what not.

[HaLo]

Just thought I'd chime in on here on a few points:
As for tire, 225 RA-1's are definitely undersized for anything over stock (or bolt ons) power, IMO. Given, I have limited experience on RA-1's... but running low to mid boost on my old setup (good for around 200-220hp) with the 245's, I felt very limited. Halo ran a 225/ 245 RA-1 setup for a few (i think) autocross seasons and I'm pretty sure he wasn't too impressed with them (always had the "you've got the better tire setup" card when visiting NER :P).


Actually, it was Advans A032-R.. And yeah, they sucked. Why? Mostly because of the staggered setup. I understeered pretty mad with those tires. 245 all around felt much better, and -2.5 degrees of camber up front felt better too. My car is still somewhat underpowered for SM class, but I personnally don't think a SR can produce enough torque down low. I am starting to believe that the best engine to put in a 240sx in SM class is a VQ35DE... with some bolt-ons, or better! ;)

[WhiteGLX]

I like the theme of your interior, but for a full race car I would've done a cluster on the steering column. You don't need a speedo/ stock temp & fuel gauge for a race setup (well, fuel might be nice to know, but as long as you can see it at all even if not at a glance). I'm also hoping you're doing a full roll cage with side intrusion bars... especially if you're gutting the doors...

Anyways, nice build up and updates! Hope you get everything sorted out, regardless of flames and what not.


i cant afford Tach and fuel level sensor just yet, thats teh only reason i have kept the factory cluster in place. When i eliminate that i will put Fuel Level, Tech, maybe small speedo, and my water temp gauge. But i need teh other gauges because my time on track is so long in teh straits i can glance over an monitor everythgin really quick too see how EGT, Oil Press, Oil Temp, Water Temp and boost are all doing, gauges are rotated so that when at operating temps and pressures they all point strait up, so it does only take a glace to check everything.

I am getting a 4pnt roll bar built in a few weeks, i cant go 6pnt yet because i cant afford the Sparco seats i want just yet along with harness, so stock seats will have to do for now. The 4 pntis made to my design after being at many track events and working track events i have a specific design and standards i want followed, and when the 4pnt gets added onto to become a 6 pnt, it will again be my design for the shop to build around me. its all legal setups just strong and reliable.

thanks for the input tho, ill post more pics as things change

[AceInHole]

Actually, it was Advans A032-R.. And yeah, they sucked. Why? Mostly because of the staggered setup. I understeered pretty mad with those tires. 245 all around felt much better, and -2.5 degrees of camber up front felt better too. My car is still somewhat underpowered for SM class, but I personnally don't think a SR can produce enough torque down low. I am starting to believe that the best engine to put in a 240sx in SM class is a VQ35DE... with some bolt-ons, or better! ;)

Ah... got mixed up with ur setup :P As for the VQ35, I'd run it, but the lack of being able to boost it in SM takes some of the fun away. If I could do a hybrid VQ30 then maybe... but haven't looked into it enough to really see how feasible that'd be, plus I'm already close to making enough useable power on the KA for autocross.

[WhiteGLX]

welp, i dropped my car off at MA Motorsports to get a 4 point roll bar installed to meet SCCA/ NASA specs. Should be done like wednesday ish, at which point i will post pictures of the cage installed and painted. Along with pics of my new short exhaust.

[Broaner]

For those who didn't believe my car could be that light.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/767000-767999/767108_139_full.jpg

That was with a full 13 gallons in it. So trackday race weight with me in should be right at 2260. 1/4 mile race weight should be under 2200lbs because of only having 4 gallons in the tank.

I still have some wiring and sound deadening to remove and possibly windows and gutting the door skeleton. But that should amount to no more than 50lbs. 10lbs of the roll cage is already installed. The rest should weigh between 150 and 200lbs. That will bring me back to somewhere around 2300. That is without an composite materials or significant efforts made in weight saving in other areas. Little thing like aluminum driveshaft and such could add up to bring me back below 2300lbs. I'm not really aiming for that but if it happens cool. Its not really a big deal anyway though because SM minimum weight is 2500 so it'll all be gained back in ballast.

[2JZGTE]

To the OP...thanks for sharing your car's details... looks like it's coming along nicely. Good job, and have fun improving on your setup and driving.

Broaner...awesome weight. Guess you just proved to all the doubters:) My car should be down around that weight as well. I'll be going to the scales in August for a weigh-in.

About roadracing, I'd like to offer some of my experiences as well for grip driving. I'm not saying my setup is the way to go, and not saying I'm a know-it-all. Just sharing my experiences, that's all.

I recently relocated my fusebox and relay box to behind the dash, similar to whiteGLX. It was pretty easy, but I can see how somebody could mess it up. I did this to make the engine bay clean and to get more room up front so I can run more POSITIVE CASTER. I'm at +7 right now and occasionally rub the front part of fender well. Now I can bang it out and get up to +10 degrees.

My alignment: Front: -2.5 camber, .5 toe out, +7 caster. Rear: -1.5 camber, .25 toe in. Car is lowered too much right now and I am going to raise it a little bit. My links are angled up way too much. This doesn't prevent me from running very well at my track though.

For mods: I have:
spl fender brace
spl tension rod
Tanabe sways front and rear
cusco rear control arm and toe rod
kazama traction rod
Silk road coilvers (8/6)
Cusco strut bars (F+R)
subframe spacers (installed all 8)
Sr engine w/ stock turbo + FULLRACE mani at 240rwhp
fmic, koyo radiator, FAL twin fans...no oil cooler or PS cooler yet.
ZetaIII bucket (bucket seat was essential for me improving my driving).
Work s1, see sig. Currently on 235/40 and 245/40 bfg KDW (way too hard, can't wait to use the pilot sport cup)
Wilwood 4piston front brakes w/ 12.2" rotors.

I am very happy with my setup as it is....except for one thing. I am going to replace my Tanabe rear swaybar with the stock swaybar.

My track (mid-america motorplex) is mostly 3rd gear, and top speed up to about 130-140mph. and one 2nd gear turn. I can have the throttle all the way down midway through the apex on nearly every turn. I thought my setup might be too extreme and too stiff but it has proved to be very nice and my chassis/suspension flex is becoming very minimal.

Some of the turns require late apex for better laptimes. There are lots of S-turns and some double right turns.

The double right turns require a wide entry through the first turn while carrying higher entry speed. Approaching the second right and you simply let off the gas and unsettle the back end for a nice turn in and full throttle exit through the second right-turn. I really enjoy these turns.

As most of you know, simply getting partially through the turn and then throttling out while unwinding the steering works very well. My first outing had me getting full throttle after 3/4 of the turn, but more seat time and I'm now full throttle at mid-apex.

My end goal is to use an S15 turbo with r-compound (pilot sport cup because they last much longer than kumho/hoosier) while still getting full throttle at mid-apex.

I've been very impressed with the ability and reliability of my S13. Last time at the track and I passed a nice porsche w/ cage, huge wing, the works, some STIs on falken 615 tires, and two ZO6 vettes. The first ZO6 was unexperienced, easy kill. The second...well he looked like he knew how to drive. I was really amazed that I reeled him in through the course of a few laps. He finally gave the signal to pass, albeit very reluctantly:) Many people at the track ask me what kind of car it is, and many people are stunned that it can pass their MUCH more expensive cars. I had an instructor ride with me and he was very impressed with the handling, stating that it is on par with the ZO6s he races and rides in.

Stock turbo on SR is more than enough power for now, and the only thing planned for the future is more seat-time, an oil cooler, and r-compound. I do 20-30minute sessions with my water temp rising to a max of 95 degrees C. Maybe this is getting too hot? But I haven't had any problems yet, and run from 3-8pm (30minute sessions with cooldown in between). EGTs max at 870 degrees C.

When my supra is finished it will spank the laptimes of my nissan but that's expected (moton triple adjustable shocks and 285/315 r-compound).

People...mods are always a good thing but nothing is better than seat-time at a track, and time with an instructor in your car to give you pointers.

http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/4999/s13nz.jpg

http://img129.imageshack.us/img129/8951/s23rf.jpg

http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/1901/s38pz.jpg

http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/4919/s41qc.jpg

http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/6160/s55wc.jpg

http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/6182/s68px.jpg


The beginning:
http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/2253/s80ay.jpg

LOL
http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/5936/s73ok.jpg

[WhiteGLX]

looks good 2JZ, i dont haev the funds for a good suspension setup like yours, ebcause i have spent it all on track time overe here. 2 day events, 8 sessions per event, and only 7 under my belt, 2 more in the next month tho.
I just got a set of used hoosiesrs that are still very good for a few events that i mounted on RX-7 wheels (FD), and i turned my boost down a tad, so i shoudl be around 240whp now.


Seat time i my must, but i have made modifications approprietly when i think they are needed, V-mount was to keep water temps down (not for bling fator), rollbar is for safety because i am getting into the 150+mph range at VIR, rewiring was because my chasis harness took a crap on me and cought fire about a year ago.

Oh yaeh, i didnt relocate anything, i removed it all. all the wiring in the car is roughly 5lbs or less.



rollbar pics for teh kiddies

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/P6070007.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/P6070003.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/P6070001.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/cage2.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/P6070005.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/P6070009.jpg

[Broaner]

I love these types of threads.

You laid it all out there very well 2jzgte. Tracktime...

I need lots as I have none besides a few parade laps at Road America. LOL.

What clubs are you guys in? There are only two around here. Madison Sports Car Club and Porsche Club the Milwaukee chapter. The Madison group seems to be a bit more snobby about things and usually not very welcoming to newcomers. The Porsche club has trackdays all the time. This chapter requires a lot of corner working time. Thats fine with me I guess because my car won't be track ready for two years anyway so...

I'm thinking of joining one next spring. Do you guys have any suggestions or experiences to share relating to the clubs your a part of?

WhiteGLX, I'm really liking your cage man. Looks very well done. Its actually very similar to what I had in mind. Infact the RSTB tube looks almost identical to mine.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/767000-767999/767108_102_full.jpg

I decided to go a bit crazy last night. A buddy hit a deer while driving my car on saturday. Trashed the rad support. So I decided to take the chance to do some work. I removed all of the remaining wiring harness left in the car. And if there is no wiring for the windows there is no point in having windows. So I'm probably 30lbs lighter now. Also, now that I have plenty of room I finally had a chance to do some test fitting on this Vortech.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/767000-767999/767108_147_full.jpg

[EchoOfSilence]

um, what motor is that?

[WhiteGLX]

I'm thinking of joining one next spring. Do you guys have any suggestions or experiences to share relating to the clubs your a part of?

Ive worked 2 day events with NASA and ive driven in a few also. Just come prepared with tools to do almost anything within reason. They are usually driving schools, that way your inscurance will cover you if something happens. So enjoy the time out there, learn alot but most of all dont worry abotu racing cause there is always going to be someone faster that you at weekend club events.


um, what motor is that?


that is a maxima engine mated to eithe 0r a 300zx tranny or a 350z tranny.....

[Broaner]

Echo, its a VQ30DE right now. I'll be swapping in a VQ30DE-K at some point. I'm not moving up to the 35 because I'd like to stay eligible for boost.

Thanks for the input man. Its going to be tough for me to go into a trackday and keep my mouth shut just learning all I can. But I really want to in a couple years.

[2JZGTE]

Sick rollbar. I need to do a rear hoop sometime as well...then I can finally get a 6-point harness.

Broaner - I'm not a member of any clubs yet because I work overseas and only spend 1/3 of the year in the states right now. I will be joining a BMW club soon though so that I can get more tracktime in. I'm in the midwest too...we can meet up in August if you want. You should come down to mid-america motorplex if you can make it. I'll be there for the trackdays in August and September (every other Wednesday).

http://www.midamericamotorplex.com/2006/default.asp

You should just get to a trackday with your car...preferably one with instructors on site that will ride with you. If there aren't any instructors, then you can just try to get a ride with someone else. They can show you the lines around the track, it really helps. You'd be surprised, most people at trackdays are really cool and always willing to offer advice. Also, people at trackdays usually know wtf they're talking about. Another option is to sign up for a trackday that is specifically a school day. It usually costs a little more but you will have a dedicated instructor...and you will learn A LOT.

Don't worry about driving fast. Everybody wants you to go at your own pace anyway...and there is usually a passing rule so you don't have to worry about going 2 wide into a turn etc.

Anyway, good luck finishing your car...crazy looking project you have there.

Billy

[Broaner]

This car won't be ready for trackdays until atleast late next summer. The front suspension is really crappy right now. I did the rear first so I could atleast hit up the 1/4 mile this year. Although now it looks like I may not get to do that because of the deer. The front bushings on the TC rods are really bad and the front brakes and tires are laughably small compared to the rears. Balljoints are shot and so are the bearings. Basically, the front end is a hole winters worth of work.

And once it is done Mid-america is way too far until I get a good tow setup. My truck could do it but it wouldn't be the best for it. So for a couple years I'll be sticking to Road America and Blackhawk.

[2JZGTE]

So for a couple years I'll be sticking to Road America and Blackhawk.

Poor you:rawk: You've got some badass tracks around your area.

I'll be taking a roadtrip in my S13 to Road America. I've always wanted to go there....maybe I'll have a chance in August.

I always drive my S13 to trackdays....the best part is showing up and passing those guys that got trailered in:eek3:

[WhiteGLX]

I always drive my S13 to trackdays....the best part is showing up and passing those guys that got trailered in


hey hey hey...nothing wrong with being trailer slut to the track...we just just drive harder :coold:

[Broaner]

The car could take the trip there but I couldn't. An hour + of straightpiped exhaust at a constant tone and volume on the highway causes serious insanity. Plus I probably would get better towing mileage than I would if I just drove the car. LOL

I'd definitely be scarred to go full 9/10th's at RA. I plan on working up to it. That place is so fast. You need supreme confidence in your car to brake it down from mid to high triple digits before turn one. Front straight is roughly 9/10ths of a mile.

Do you guys know of Blackhawk? I thought it was only locally known. Much slower and less demanding track of novice drivers like myself.

[WhiteGLX]

BODY ROLL!!!
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Mazda606-06897-1.jpg

starting to run away.....
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Mazda606-06296.jpg


http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Mazda606-01950.jpg


trying to catch the C5
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Mazda606-03273.jpg


http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Mazda606-04134.jpg


good thing i flared the fenders 2 days before the event
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Mazda606-04699.jpg


http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Mazda606-00267.jpg

[nlzmo400r]

awesome pics bro. Nice to see people that really race wheel to wheel. Whats your brake setup? Do you find brake fade on track days with only street tires(azenis....assuming thats whats in the pictures)?

[WhiteGLX]

awesome pics bro. Nice to see people that really race wheel to wheel. Whats your brake setup? Do you find brake fade on track days with only street tires(azenis....assuming thats whats in the pictures)?


these are track days HPDE style, drivers education type things, not true racing....yet ;).

my brakes are Brembo Blank rotors, SS lines, 300zx 30mm Alum. calipers, Super Blue bake fluid, and Hawk HP+ Pads. Never had brake fade before, the pads are made for track events, very agressive when hot and the super blue fluid has a rediculou high boiling point. Tires are falken Azenis in the 3rd and 5th photos others are Hoosier S04's on RX-7 FD wheels in the others. The brakes were more than enough for the Azneis, btu with the hoosiers in the future i will need to go with something a bit more agressive like a 13-14" rotor and 4 pot calipers up front....or 13" rotor with 6 pot calipers up front.

[nlzmo400r]

these are track days HPDE style, drivers education type things, not true racing....yet ;).

my brakes are Brembo Blank rotors, SS lines, 300zx 30mm Alum. calipers, Super Blue bake fluid, and Hawk HP+ Pads. Never had brake fade before, the pads are made for track events, very agressive when hot and the super blue fluid has a rediculou high boiling point. Tires are falken Azenis in the 3rd and 5th photos others are Hoosier S04's on RX-7 FD wheels in the others. The brakes were more than enough for the Azneis, btu with the hoosiers in the future i will need to go with something a bit more agressive like a 13-14" rotor and 4 pot calipers up front....or 13" rotor with 6 pot calipers up front.


With a 14" rotor you may need an 18" wheel. With the 13" rotor, you will need a 17" usually. Ive seen one guy run 94Cobra brakes (13" rotor) under a 16" CCW classic wheel. But that wheel has a wierd drop center and unique offset that just barely clears the brakes. I run the EVO/STI set up and run a 17" wheel. I haven't experienced any brake fade at all (although all my friends get fade with q45/300zx brakes) with only azenis.

[2JZGTE]

Lookin good whiteglx.

What alignment specs were you running at this event? Also, how does the cage feel on the track compared to before without it?

[WhiteGLX]

With a 14" rotor you may need an 18" wheel. With the 13" rotor, you will need a 17" usually. Ive seen one guy run 94Cobra brakes (13" rotor) under a 16" CCW classic wheel. But that wheel has a wierd drop center and unique offset that just barely clears the brakes. I run the EVO/STI set up and run a 17" wheel. I haven't experienced any brake fade at all (although all my friends get fade with q45/300zx brakes) with only azenis.

i plan to run 17x10 with 275 series tires up front, and 17x11 out back with 295 series tires. And at that poitn ill do the brakes as well. a 14" rotor could fit with the proper offsets and such to clear the caliper, we will see, its a long ways off whe ni get to that upgrade point. I have never had brake fade with my azenis, what pads and brake fluid were your friedns running, itll make all the difference in the world.


Lookin good whiteglx.

What alignment specs were you running at this event? Also, how does the cage feel on the track compared to before without it?

thanks, rears has about 1 deg neg camber, 0 toe. Front has almost no camber adjustment and also 0 toe. And toe in or out will destroy these tires im running. Whe ni get new suspension stuff next season ill run abour 2 deg camber all around and 0 toe and factory caster.

[nlzmo400r]

i plan to run 17x10 with 275 series tires up front, and 17x11 out back with 295 series tires. And at that poitn ill do the brakes as well. a 14" rotor could fit with the proper offsets and such to clear the caliper, we will see, its a long ways off whe ni get to that upgrade point. I have never had brake fade with my azenis, what pads and brake fluid were your friedns running, itll make all the difference in the world.




thanks, rears has about 1 deg neg camber, 0 toe. Front has almost no camber adjustment and also 0 toe. And toe in or out will destroy these tires im running. Whe ni get new suspension stuff next season ill run abour 2 deg camber all around and 0 toe and factory caster.


My friends are idiots and run on napa ceramics. I use ferodo ds2500's.

[WhiteGLX]

My friends are idiots and run on napa ceramics. I use ferodo ds2500's.


i understand where they get brake fade from now.....if you set it up right, you will never have a worry in the world wheather your car is going to stop or not....

[nlzmo400r]

well one of them uses a q45 setup up front and stock out rear. He's still on street tires (rs2s) and is ka-t (right at 250whp). His 235/40 hankooks are too small out back to hold down power for exiting corners as it is. But his real problem is braking. He uses crossrdrilled rotors, however he cannot find a performance brake pad for the q45 calipers. The wheels he runs (17x8.5 work vs-xx) barely clears his q45 setup, so he can't change to the z32 caliper for better pad choice.

[WhiteGLX]

235 hankook's cant hold 250whp....maybe the throttle modulation needs to be worked on, cause i nmade my 215 azenis work with 260whp, full throttle they would kick, but i just made them work, hankook's are sticky if they are r-comps.

[WhiteGLX]

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Mazda606-04668.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Mazda606-03565.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Mazda606-03993.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Mazda606-03489.jpg

[peoplerfoolz]

ur ride looks tight

[WhiteGLX]

ok first i have some old pics that haev surfaced from a track buddy from Hyperfest back in July.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/IMG_2083.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/IMG_2054.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/IMG_2033.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/IMG_1923.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/IMG_1922.jpg



and now onto the Summit pics from last weekend.


http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/img_0407_std.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/img_0342_std.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/img_0291_std.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/img_0151_std.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/img_0240_std.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/img_0036_std.jpg


enjoy....

[sideview_180sx]

have you been able to upgrade yo wheel size. My friend competes in SRX out here in socal running on work cr kai's 17s. Are you still on those hoosier's, because I know for west coast toyo is main sponsor. How is the cooling for you, have you had cavitation problems from running?? He's been having problems with the SR having shitty cooling capabilities at high rpms (30-45min race), and dealing with the heat from a choking 2871 and creating massive amounts of heat around the footbox. So much so he's been getting blisters on his feet. We are ceramic-coating the DP and tossing on some heat wrap. We already put the gold foil on the firewall and such. Hopefully we can clean up for december.

[WhiteGLX]

have you been able to upgrade yo wheel size. My friend competes in SRX out here in socal running on work cr kai's 17s. Are you still on those hoosier's, because I know for west coast toyo is main sponsor. How is the cooling for you, have you had cavitation problems from running?? He's been having problems with the SR having shitty cooling capabilities at high rpms (30-45min race), and dealing with the heat from a choking 2871 and creating massive amounts of heat around the footbox. So much so he's been getting blisters on his feet. We are ceramic-coating the DP and tossing on some heat wrap. We already put the gold foil on the firewall and such. Hopefully we can clean up for december.

the only wheel size i really want to run is a 16" dia. but because of tire options for later on, i believe i will haev up eventually move up to a 17"....width, for comp i will prolly run 17x9 front w 275 rubber and 17x10 out back with a 295-305 rubber depending on power with will proly be in the 350whp range i believe.

Toyo may be a sponsor out there, but east coast nly has te options of Toyo bucks, they arnt out here givin out freebies :( most of teh guys run hoosiers anyways, slicks seem to win the races. I am still on hoosiers because i get the used and for free for te Porches 944 guys, free tires = saved money even if the do only last me one weekend.

my cooling issues are nonexistant on track, i see about 160* on a 95* day, i run a v-mount that i have designed to be super cool on track, off track is a whole other story, good thing its just a track car :). What is his cooling setup like where he is getting cavitation?

Heat will always be an issue, biggets help is heat wrap eveything and get a dhield for the turbo or one of those turbo blankets if possible, keep the heat on and in the exhaust stuff and out of the engien bay and cabin, i have melted my shoes over the summer form my DP, but plan to heat wrp it for next year, this year is oevr for me now, winter is well on its way.



can you link me to shots of your buddies car, im dying ot get other setup in my head for when i am ready for my comp license. and possibly help with certian things i have picked up from teh track to aid in cooling.

[sideview_180sx]

Update

suspension setup
-Silkroad coilovers (typical setup no revalving)
-Tein front suspension bolt-ons (tie rods/tension rods)
-Uprated bushings from energy suspension (upfront only, and steering rack, and swaybar pieces)
-Nothing else (not kidding)

Wheel/Tire Setup
-17x9 +17 CR Kais all around
-Toyo RA1 255/40/17 all around (toyo offers toyo bucks too, but we can only run them in the classes out here, hoosiers are good for about another 2-5/tenth per lap, but they cost way more)

Brakes
-Brembo Grand Turismo (fronts) Normal drilled setup with replacement slotted on hand
-Z32 Rears
-stainless lines
-hawk blues rear, ferodo pads front (no using porterfield after some pitting
issues with the pad and rotors
-Z32 M/C

Engine
-blacktop SR
-pieced together 2871 turbo running like 10psi if that much
-koyo rad
-s-afc tuned
-400cc injectors i think
-massive amount of new ducting and gold heatwrap (cured all overheating issues, also aided in design by the guy who wrote a small article about aerodynamics in a recent issue of SSC)
-setrab oilcooler
-running on 91 (no need to incurr extra expenses)

Interior
-Megan oil press. guage (it was free)
-sparco circuit seat (the cheaper one)
-boost gauge
-still using stock cluster for tach,speedo,water temp
- 1 very fuddging balling cage with nascar doorbars, dimple-dye

I will get some pics up soon of the ducting and interior setup. So far the car has lasted great, they are mainly pushing for reliability rather then trying to beat SE-R and honda challenge guys. Its only the first year for the car/driver. Learning as we go along, he said going to the 17in wheel/tire size helped the most with going to different tracks and the gearing the wheel/tire gave him (stock final drive).

This last event he had a major footbox heat issue. the 02 sensor had popped out and the gases were just cooking the area. We are going to hook up some datalogging around the footbox/engine bay too see if the fact we had little to no ducting previously was the reason for the footbox issues.

The cavitation issues are common with all SRs when ran at high rpm for long duration. Its a well known problem, which is why I was asking you.

[WhiteGLX]

sounds like a pretty good suspension setup. Same with engine, i just dont see the need for the 2871R if your not going to use it, might aw well stil with T28 with alil more boosta and get better response out of it. Tuning, get away from that SAFC, i haed mine after 2 years of usig it, i have an AEM EMS ill be using next year with some fnacy tning and still low boost, but its an addition to the setup i can use for years and have complete reliability with tuning.

Heat wrap is always a good idea, and ducting always helps keep things cool, incomming air and getting the hot air out as well. I run about 170* average on a hot track sessions. with ducting and no heat wrapping of anything. I need to wrap my downpipe so that i dont melt the bottom of my shoes anymore :).

I use the hoosiers because i get them free and used, no better deal than free, since the porsche 944 cup guys are just dyin to get rid of them. Toyo bucks sound nice, but if i am buying new tires, i think ill go hoosier in the end since i hav heard alot fo complaining from teh racers whoare used to slicks that have tried RA-1's.

I knwo the 17" wheels have a very wide selection of wheels and tires, i wanna stay with 16" to try and keep my CG a little lower overall, if i cant stick with 16" wheels ill move up, but not until its neccessary.

As far as cavitation, i have never had an issue with it...at all, i have designed my entire setup around reliability, and so far its paid off 100%, not a single issue since i put the rebuilt motor in last December, running strong and makes great power at low boost, i think i did about 270whp at 14psi on my T28 boost was at about 3300rpm.. give or take 100rpm (its because of how i put the motor togeather, sshhhh dont tell anyone i have 9.0:1 comp. with a 100% stock engine).

I use my stock cluster because i dont wanan spend money on aftermarktet fuel and tach gauges yet...speedo is uneccessary, my shift light does all the talking for me, and i have all other neccessary gauges in the car to check on the engine when im on a straitaway.

post up some pictures of his cage, i know exactly how i plan to finish mine and how m going to gusset it, im just not going to do it until its time to set the car up for comp. Itll be too long to say wait and see, but this 8pnt bar is going to be the hawtness, you wait and see ...oops.

[WhiteGLX]

UPDATE!

new chassis wiring...
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Electrical/PICT0066.jpg

Painless switch panel....removeable...
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Electrical/PICT0063.jpg

Gauge Panel...
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/New%20Look/P4220075.jpg

interior repainted...
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Roll%20bar/P8310025.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Roll%20bar/P8310024.jpg

most recent track shots...
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Track%20shots/img_0211_std.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Track%20shots/img_0342_std.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Track%20shots/img_0151_std.jpg




Biggest additions this past year....
* Custom Rollbar
* AEM EMS (Still not installed)
* Carbotech XP10/XP8 (F/R) Brake pads
* Gauge Panel constructed
* Chassis rewiring (Start, Ignition, Fuel Pump, Wipers, Fans, Lights)
* Running rebuilt motor with 9.0:1 compression (fully stock engine w/ machine work)
* Successfully running and testing my V-mount setup at several track events
(2x VIR Full, 2x Summit Point Main)

[Flybert]

Lots of cool stuff going on there. When are you going to finish the front section of your cage?

[fromxtor]

Looking good Casey, wish everything would have been working out up at VIR.

[WhiteGLX]

Lots of cool stuff going on there. When are you going to finish the front section of your cage?

front section of cage will be done end of this season maybe next year when i closer to getting my license. I will have seats and hrnesses end of this season and possibly suspension all tuned in (Coilovers, some links, and buchings). Than the cage w/ stitch welding and new paint scheme all at once.


Looking good Casey, wish everything would have been working out up at VIR.

i will be at VIR again this year, and the car will be working awesomly, just like my last event where i was passing at least 12 people per session. I am very excited to have a good running car this year, biggest issue was my engine harness, i shouldnt have had it modified, so i replaced it with stock SR harness and rewired it myself.....oh and i replaced teh throttle body gasket cause it blew out on my way to VIR last time...oops. :)

[WhiteGLX]

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Electrical/PICT0105.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Electrical/PICT0109.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Electrical/PICT0107.jpg

[WhiteGLX]

both seat mounts

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0469.jpg



both seats mounted

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0479.jpg



Passenger seat brace i welded

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0471.jpg



harness bar removed

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0473.jpg



overhead clearence when 6'4" tall....

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0480.jpg

[WhiteGLX]

*harness bar being redone to fit better ,6" higher with different design.

*Kirkey race seats mounted

*Back bracing for seats being done next week, very easy design.

*steering wheel change w/ quick release being added next week.

[RedSVTFlareside]

Nice stuff Casey. more pics!

[fromxtor]

Looks tits casey now come down to NC and install my painless when I get it. :bigok:

[WhiteGLX]

u may for my trip and labor and ill do it, i got mainevents car running n the first startup.....ill snap some pic sof his interior panel and what not when i go to do some touchups....

I made this between tuesday and wednesday (fab'd, painted and installed)

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0483.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0482.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0485.jpg


had to trim and strech the bumper to get it to fit good, but once i painted the lip and exposed bar black it blended right in....

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0498.jpg


All thats left for track month since i changed all fluids yesterday (oil, trans, diff)....

*Harness bar

*maybe back brace, might wait until after first 2 events to leave some adjustability in seats still.

*painting interior parts

*mounting harness's

*mounting steering wheel.

[fromxtor]

Damn Casey, I officially dub your bumper support the "mad max edition". My parents live in Germantown (near rockville), so maybe I can come to you.:bigok:

[WhiteGLX]

some of the stuf fon my car is Mad-max, and im not afraid to admit it, but then again, i am only building this car for driving fast, being reliable and being safe, otherwise its not for anything else....so looks arnt important to me...with the car at least

[WhiteGLX]

ill gfet som epics of the new exhaust tomarrow afternoon....its H-A-W-T :) and Aluminized steel blingish :)....

[WhiteGLX]

got the basplates welded in place on the seats yesterday....fantastic AL Tig welds by a young guy at an industrial welding place..... harness bar should be done today, then i can finish the last pieces to the back brace and install my harness's tomarrow afternoonish.....and take some more finished pics for you guys...


oh and exhaust pictures....

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0001.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0002.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0010.jpg

[WhiteGLX]

between the expo and my last nasa event i firmly believe i am down into the mid 2:20's with my fastest lap times nwo when before i was round 2:28-2:30...with my only mod being my seats and harness's.

last event...
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Track%20shots/NASAFEB04752.jpg

EXPO...
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Track%20shots/IMG_9602copy.jpg

i really wish i could have taken you out andy, to really show you want these cars are capable of with just better brakes and tires in comparison with your car....i was keeping my distance on several race cars out there and actually impressed 2 race drivers which was very cool for me to hear since i have been tryingto hard to find places for me to actually pick up speed and bring times down.... like being flat out in 5th gear through the upper S's, i was in the 110mph range before braking into T10 (blind left hander)

[fromxtor]

Andy? I'm not Andy, Casey I was w/ Andy at VIR that weekend. :D I'm Josh, and you can believe I'm going to be making a trip up to MD w/ my KA26ET to have you do a few things for me. :bigok:

[WhiteGLX]

Andy? I'm not Andy, Casey I was w/ Andy at VIR that weekend. :D I'm Josh, and you can believe I'm going to be making a trip up to MD w/ my KA26ET to have you do a few things for me. :bigok:


hey if you want work dont, just let me know, i have another S13 comming in a few weeks for me to rewire....then im not sure, cause my car wont be getting any mods until next year.... (suspension, and a few suspension links)

[WhiteGLX]

Few pics from ITR Expo

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Track%20shots/DSCN0200.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Track%20shots/IMG_5703.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Track%20shots/IMG_5730.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Track%20shots/PICT0018.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Track%20shots/PICT0019.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Track%20shots/PICT0024.jpg

My buddies K20 Integra, whooped up on Falken Azenis...
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Track%20shots/1-2259-78726-l-AHDocoz2RTKWcOW1bAuM.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/Track%20shots/DSCN0347.jpg

[WhiteGLX]

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0014.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0015.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0016.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/race%20seat/PICT0017.jpg

[WhiteGLX]

UPDATE!!!

after 3 events in about 2 weeks i have learned a rgeat del more abou tmy car and what it is still capable of in its medeocre performance standings. I will have video posted of both VIR GRand from teh mazda drivers event, and video from my last session at Hyperfest in which case i killed it and had a great time out there.

I ruined a front caliper and ended up having to barrow from a drift guy that happened to be at Hyperfest also. Now i have just replaced both my front calipers with remanufactures Iron calipers to keep costs down and the make sure they never fail, all new hardware pads and rotors both have one weekened on them, so they should last me about a year.

the seats and harness's were by far the best investment i have event spent on myself and the car, hands down, no complaints, at all.

my turbo has been making some kind of chirping noise so i may investigate or just go ahead and run it till it dies, not sure yet, its a pretty good debate.

new suspension plans are in the works, everything to tune camber, toe, ride height, comfort and shock rebound, should be a good setup, great compared to my current, i am hoping its my last big investment needed to get to the low laptimes at Summitpoint that i want so bad, we will have to wait and see.

i will be starting a new build thread for fun of my brothers car, Honda Civic, his old car crashed outside T10 at VIR at the ITR EXPO, so alot of swapping parts, chassis prep, cage work, etc all must be done, its a long process, but itll turn out absolutly amazing when we are done with it :).

pics and video are my next updates, so cross your fingers, they should be good.

[Enjin]

ah I LOVE this thread!

any chance that you can get some of the older pictures to work? I am interested to be able to see the starting points of the build.

awesome wiring job btw!

[WhiteGLX]

i dont know if i even have any of the older pics, the car has come such a long way, if you could pin point an area of the begining it would help me out alot i think...

[HaLo]

Tell me, if you were at the ITR expo at VIR, you must've met some of my friends that came all the way down from Montreal in a 00 Red Civic Coupe. Carl Wener and Vincent Basile... they were supposed to be coaching / instructing that weekend...

[sideview_180sx]

you must post pics about the next car re-wire. sr2goofus either here,ZT, or FA

[Enjin]

i dont know if i even have any of the older pics, the car has come such a long way, if you could pin point an area of the begining it would help me out alot i think...

ah I mean the pics that you originally posted in the thread a couple of years ago :bigok:

I am at the starting stages of prepping my 240 for track and was interested to see what you had done!

the car looks excellent as of now!

[WhiteGLX]

well the car didnt look much different beesides interior, seats and wheels....not much has changed for outside appearence....

[Enjin]

really I was looking to see what you did behind the dashboard. that is the phase Im working on right now.

It is kind of fun tracing which wire goes to what, to see if I need it. I was amazed at how much wiring and relays could weigh!

I am in the process of tracing each wire to see what I NEED... because I am trying to also get this car registered, leaving only the essential functions, lights, horn, turn signals, and reverse, as well as the track essentials, blower motor, ducting, alternator, fuel pump, etc.

Learning is half the fun tho.

[WhiteGLX]

UPDATE!!!!

no changes to car for the rest of this year, unless something breaks....then its all out suspension swap, bushing changes and a very few control arm changes....

VIDEO!!!

from Hyperfest this year, soon to be posted is video from VIR Grand
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6706228089276073532&q=Casey+at+Sum mit+Point+main&total=3&start=0&num=10&so=0&type=se arch&plindex=0

[WhiteGLX]

some VIR Grand footage with MDA.....

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-1165199365012568112

[WhiteGLX]

UPDATE!!!!

Sumit Main just felt my wrath.... I ran a best of 1:26 according to my bro stop-watch, which i believe is awesome considering my current setup. I had video of my last session out with the instructors, but my tie-strap held down the zoom button and ruined the video and made it just license plates and track surface

Car had HORRIBLE shudder in teh front end, which led us to believe many bad bushings considering they are prolly 16yrs old anyways. So comming soon to a forums near you, bushing install, coilover swap and adjustments, cam install, SAFC install and tuning. All before christmas hopefully, well see how that turns out.

[wannabe_drifter]

Gotta see SAFC install and tuning !!

[91gst]

sweet casey!! you were definitely flying...

[steve shadows]

UPDATE!!!!

no changes to car for the rest of this year, unless something breaks....then its all out suspension swap, bushing changes and a very few control arm changes....

VIDEO!!!

from Hyperfest this year, soon to be posted is video from VIR Grand
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6706228089276073532&q=Casey+at+Sum mit+Point+main&total=3&start=0&num=10&so=0&type=se arch&plindex=0

looks like you need a bit more power in the straights?

[WhiteGLX]

no need for more power, itll hurt me int he turns, i can almost keep up with C6 Vetts if i make the last turn perfect, otherwise its bye bye...

[steve shadows]

no need for more power, itll hurt me int he turns, i can almost keep up with C6 Vetts if i make the last turn perfect, otherwise its bye bye...

you just need to modulate throttle.

I mean my car is probalby making as much hp as your car doest at 6500 at like 4000 rpms.

turbo lag is an illusion.

either way sick ride

[WhiteGLX]

you just need to modulate throttle.

I mean my car is probalby making as much hp as your car doest at 6500 at like 4000 rpms.

turbo lag is an illusion.

either way sick ride

modulating the throttle and dealing with HP is different matters, its easier to drive the car with current power and maybe a tad more, like 30+ maybe. Its not a matter of needing more power either, its a matter of needs, i dont need more power to go faster i just need to modify my line a little and maybe do a little suspension work. More power will just force me to adjust my whole driving technique and not just throttle.

i aree lag is managable, but why be forced to manage things just for power on the straits, id rather not have to manage anything and concentrate on other things while driving.

[S14SwimShark105]

Once you break everything down and max out your driving skills, max out the tires, max out the suspension, and max out your engine, it all comes down to " HORSEPOWER WINS RACES" I am running stock kade24 with just your basic boltons with almost all suspension done and sure I can keep up with Evo's and Mini Copper S's, and Corvettes in the corners but once we hit the straight aways, I get smoked hard. And if you go head to head with a guy that has the same skill as you or maybe even a little less skill but has more power, he will beat you.

Although you could catch up to them in the corners, they will most likely gain more ground on you on the straight away than you can make up in the corners.

Trust me, I am all about corners, but there comes a certain time when you just need more power. :D

[WhiteGLX]

horse power does a good bit, but for legitimate racing, at our track (2.2mi loop) the Honda Challenge H1 cars are just as fast at the american iron Extreme cars, 2x the horsepower easily, but the same lap times. Skill and setup wins races, only horsepower if you know how to use it. Dragracing is another story tho....

[all stock]

HC vs American Iron? Hmm.

Realize at this point, a second or 2 makes a huge difference in lap times. Especially the shorter the course.

HP may win races, but realize that w2w competition rules are set in attempt to level the playing field. And the more you compete and lose, the lower your spec weight gets, better of a chance you have.

[WhiteGLX]

HC vs American Iron? Hmm.

Realize at this point, a second or 2 makes a huge difference in lap times. Especially the shorter the course.

HP may win races, but realize that w2w competition rules are set in attempt to level the playing field. And the more you compete and lose, the lower your spec weight gets, better of a chance you have.



its not HC vs AI, its just two classes out on track at the same time. SCCA puts several classes on track together at the same time as well.

NASA doesnt allow you to change your cars weight if you lose alot, rules are rules to keep cars similar, not level the playing field because your a slower driver in comparison to a faster one....

[all stock]

its not HC vs AI, its just two classes out on track at the same time. SCCA puts several classes on track together at the same time as well.

NASA doesnt allow you to change your cars weight if you lose alot, rules are rules to keep cars similar, not level the playing field because your a slower driver in comparison to a faster one....

well, the lack of podiums on a car deemed uncompetitive will lower the spec weight, however it'll take 1 season before the committee deems it allowable. just as with cars that consistantly win. H4's champion 3 seasons running, the chassis gained over 50lbs on their spec weight, according to the rules.

NASA doesn't allow you personally to change the spec weight to your PERSONAL vehicle, they can make it a rule that applies to all cars.

[Paul2x]

Very cool vid's, nice wide fast track! wow

wish i could get out their.

[WhiteGLX]

changes all comming togeather.

FMIC and Rad fully mounted, IC tubes being welded this week, all new exhaust gaskets on order, FULLRace manifold going on with new gaskets, and DP will be getting a flex pipe to help reduce vibration cracks in exhaust components. Cams and Injectors are installed along with soon-to-be SAFC for mild tuning of 11psi. Car should make about 240whp and a very agressive powerband for lower RPM.


http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/FMIC/PICT0085.jpg

keep in touch if you want to see pics of everythign done and IC ductign finished in the next few weeks.

[Cloud9]

Sic vid and car setup, no offense but the car sounded like you were in to high of a gear almost the entire time. keep us posted tho.

[WhiteGLX]

most of the time i was in high rpm range, not keeping it at redline all the time, but within proper power band range so i woudl stay in boost at all times. If i stay in lower gears the car is st too high of rpm, and causes throttle inputs to unsettle the car which ends up in lots of steering correction and loss of control


its a big thing i learned this past year on high speed tracks, high gears lead to high speeds and smoother steering inputs due to a settled car. I changed my top speed on one major section of a track here by about 40mph sicen last year.....and its a miltiple S situation. My VIR video will show it, i shoudl make comparison videos from last year if i can find them. you will notice lap times drop by tons and speeds increase.

[slider2828]

Man, I amso envious. I so wanna race my car, but I also love driving my car on the street. Awesome setup, especially ove he elevation change in the middle of VIR. WOW that suby is quick. I have been doing some AutoXing and 4WD's are really taking over the scene. Out of the box they are already so quick.

What are your suspension settings if I might ask? THanks! NVM... Found it.

Pretty close to mine. I am think RT's 225 and 245, but thinking 255's. How is running so wide up front because my setup is for autox, turn in on 245's on front might hurt me. 255 on 8" rim is that ok?

[WhiteGLX]

What are your suspension settings if I might ask? THanks! NVM... Found it.

Pretty close to mine. I am think RT's 225 and 245, but thinking 255's. How is running so wide up front because my setup is for autox, turn in on 245's on front might hurt me. 255 on 8" rim is that ok?

suspension setup is changing very soon, as we speak actually.

Shocks - Ohlins race valved shocks
Springs - Eibach 450/350 Ground Control setup
Bushings - Energy SUspension Hyperflex bushings
Arms - Battle Version RUCA

Camber at -2* f/r


wide tires front and rear is a must on 240's, they tend to be a little heavy and understeer, the wider tires help guide the front of the car and get me in the direction i want to go. I plan to eventually run 275 all four corners, this way i can rotate wheels, and dont have to worry about just front sets or just rear sets. Mostly beacuse i source used race tires for all my events, and its easier to get full sets of the same sizes rather then sets with different sizes.

[g6civcx]

horse power does a good bit, but for legitimate racing, at our track (2.2mi loop) the Honda Challenge H1 cars are just as fast at the american iron Extreme cars, 2x the horsepower easily, but the same lap times. Skill and setup wins races, only horsepower if you know how to use it. Dragracing is another story tho....

Truer words have not been spoken in this forum.

Once you break everything down and max out your driving skills, max out the tires, max out the suspension, and max out your engine, it all comes down to " HORSEPOWER WINS RACES" I am running stock kade24 with just your basic boltons with almost all suspension done and sure I can keep up with Evo's and Mini Copper S's, and Corvettes in the corners but once we hit the straight aways, I get smoked hard. And if you go head to head with a guy that has the same skill as you or maybe even a little less skill but has more power, he will beat you.

Although you could catch up to them in the corners, they will most likely gain more ground on you on the straight away than you can make up in the corners.

Trust me, I am all about corners, but there comes a certain time when you just need more power. :D

Are you racing for points, championships, sponsorships, or just plain ego? Why does it matter if you can past [car x] on the straight?

More power = more speed = early braking = more chances to miss brake markers = more worn out brakes/tyres = less $$$

All you need is enough power to transfer weight front to rear as necessary. Any stock car will have enough power to do this. Anything above that is only used from the apex to the corner exit. In transitions there is no exit so you cannot apply full power.

Too much power is a liability between the entry point and the apex.


I say keep the power exactly where it is. Tune the chassis and the driver.

[WhiteGLX]

i am in complete agreement with keeping power low and learning the car, and upgrading suspension slowly as track time increases to maximize speed and momentum driving.

although i have just taken a few small steps to increase my power and suspension at the same time.

power is going up from 220whp to about 250whp with better torque curve.

[fly]

i may have missed it but why are you ditching the v-mount?

[a_ahmed]

Man your thread is awesome +1 for awesome progress thread.. really enjoyed reading the entire thing... lol @ oil cooler thing earlier in thread :P

[WhiteGLX]

i may have missed it but why are you ditching the v-mount?

v-mount took up alot of space that was needed for other things. It was a tad dangerous setup in terms roadracing, one off track experience into a rough territory would potentially bust the radiator and ruin a weekend of fun for me. So the logical decision was to switch it out, for a safer setup.



Man your thread is awesome +1 for awesome progress thread.. really enjoyed reading the entire thing... lol @ oil cooler thing earlier in thread :P

thanks, keep checking in for more progress pics and updates, many soon to come, Old oil cooler setu pwas alright, but deff just a temporary design, that is being changed yet again for a much cooler setup, sorry for the play on words.

[a_ahmed]

some asshole negged me for complimenting u what a loser

[WhiteGLX]

some asshole negged me for complimenting u what a loser

someone sent you a PM givin you sh*t? what did they say?

[MomentumGT]

Hey WhiteGLX thumbs up on charting out your progress. We ran SR-X here in Cali and won regional and state champs in 06'...hopefully you did the same on the east coast and we could meet up and trade paint at Mid Ohio :bigok: this year...if budget permits. lol. Since SR-X has been disolved are you running in ST2, as we are, or ST or SU?

-Jon

[steve shadows]

+1 to anyone who actually races their car.

ugly usually equals faster

especially for budget cars.

[WhiteGLX]

Hey WhiteGLX thumbs up on charting out your progress. We ran SR-X here in Cali and won regional and state champs in 06'...hopefully you did the same on the east coast and we could meet up and trade paint at Mid Ohio :bigok: this year...if budget permits. lol. Since SR-X has been disolved are you running in ST2, as we are, or ST or SU?

-Jon


not racing yet, just instructing. I do have a buddy here who ran SR-X and is now in ST1. I personally plan to try and stick in PTA by whatever means necessary so i dont have to run with the higher dollar groups such as ST1 or ST2, forcing me to keep mods to a minimum.



thanks Steve, i dont race, just track regularly, and share my experiences and car upgrades to benefit the nissan community.

[TheArkitekt]

The full race manifold should make some serious power once its tuned out. Any way you could post up dyno graphs before and after once its installed?

and +1 for coming to Mid Ohio, haha. Would be great to have some more nissans out there.

[WhiteGLX]

The full race manifold should make some serious power once its tuned out. Any way you could post up dyno graphs before and after once its installed?

and +1 for coming to Mid Ohio, haha. Would be great to have some more nissans out there.

we will see about serious power, im still only going to boost 11psi this year, my torque curve and turbo response should be great though.

I have been to mid-ohio before, but it snowed 10 inches while i was there, not a very enjoyable March '05 event. I plan to come back later this year to track with my brother, should be great times.

[TheArkitekt]

yeah snow and ohio go hand in hand. I really hate living out here, but oh well...

[a_ahmed]

^lol i havent driven my 240 since september... well i did drive it something like 2 or 3 weeks ago when all snow melted/salt washed away.. but its back to snow and lots of it again up here in ontario/canada...


I hate winter... i hate snow... gah...

[WhiteGLX]

parts to be installed as soon as my gaskets for the exhaust stuff come in.

New engine bay shot with FMIC and Rad mounted, along with high temp coated IC pipes to help keep intake temps down in teh hot hot engine bay.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/FMIC/PICT0099.jpg


BOV recirculation action

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/FMIC/PICT0110.jpg


Parts to be installed, minus the flexpipe for the downpipe

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/FMIC/PICT0100.jpg


Ducting for brake ducts, and brackets, both pieces from Aircraftspruce.com

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/FMIC/PICT0108.jpg


New suspension, unknown spring rates, but they are Ohlins, cant be too low :) True ohlins with adjusters to prove it. These will be cleaned up a bit and possibly upgrading to GC coilover springs for these once i determine spring rates.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/FMIC/PICT0101.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/FMIC/PICT0106.jpg


These are my BC 264 cams and Fullrace manifold (soon to have EGT port)

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/FMIC/PICT0107.jpg


be ready for everything finally insatlled, along with a blingin catchcan recirculation setup.

[a_ahmed]

^sex on wheels... *drool*

[PoorMans180SX]

Very nice, can't wait for installed pics and another trackday.

[WhiteGLX]

UPDATE!

* Oil catch can recirculation done (pics later)

* Rad and FMIC fully bolted in

* IC piping all done

* Shocks cleaned and set to Ground-Control for new spring perches and coilover sleeves installed

* HKS tophats cleaned and primered

* last bit of ordered parts should be here early next week


car can be completely finished minus coilovers in a few short weeks as long as time permits for bushing install.

All thats left:
- re-pin injector plugs (1 hour)
- install exhauts manifold and new gaskets (3 hours)
- install cams (2 hours)
- install bushings ( 1 day)
- wire in rad fans (3 hours)
- relocate oil filter (again) (2 hours)

[PoorMans180SX]

nice. Don't you just love the feeling of making your car better/faster?

Are the Ohlins any shorter than the stock setup (lower)?

[WhiteGLX]

the shock is a little shorter, tho the whole setup didnt make the car sit anylower. With the new GC setup custom fitted to the Ohlins ill be able to make the car sit as low as i want with whatever spring rates i want....

[WhiteGLX]

ok so the full race manifold needs to be sent to fullrace for repairs, proper rapairs at least, i dont feel comfotable putting it on there just to pull it off again in a few months to have it fixed when it brakes again.

so hopefull i can get it all back togeather tomarrow and possibly run it on sunday if all the wiring goes smoothly for the fans and SAFC.

[TheArkitekt]

what specifically was wrong with the full race? was it a design flaw? im thinking about getting one, so im curious.

[steve shadows]

You guys are actually using the Hawk HP Plus?

Maybe it's all my straight away power, but I hate mine.

they are complete garbage compared to my old porterfields.

[Brian W.]

You guys are actually using the Hawk HP Plus?

Maybe it's all my straight away power, but I hate mine.

they are complete garbage compared to my old porterfields.


i used the Hawk HP+ on my Porsche a couple times and they stopped great! only gripe i had was they would eat my rotors up compared to the PAGIDs i switched to.




Cars lookin good Casey!

[WhiteGLX]

i havnt run Hawk HP+ in over a year, ive been running Carbotech XP10's and XP12's, now i am upgrading to Cobalt XR2's for this year and some brake ducting i went through a set of XP12's in 3 weekends, thats not right way too soon.

thanks alot brian, i cant wait to get the suspension on it and the bushings, its goin to ride so much better meow, youll have to do a ride-along at hyperfest, since ill be in the instructor group and all :).

[WhiteGLX]

engine all done

for run-up all i ned is Oil temp gauge installed (old one failed, replacement maybe this weekend) and SAFC installed, tomarrow prolly.

enjoy....

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/FMIC/PICT0131.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/sr20goofus/FMIC/PICT0134.jpg

[PoorMans180SX]

Looks good again.

Let us know when you have the Ohlins back and on!

[racepar1]

+1 to anyone who actually races their car.

ugly usually equals faster

especially for budget cars.

Mine must be a fucking rocketship then! LOL!

You guys are actually using the Hawk HP Plus?

Maybe it's all my straight away power, but I hate mine.

they are complete garbage compared to my old porterfields.

You absolutely cannot compare porterfield pads to hawk HP+. Porterfield is the shit hands down!

[WhiteGLX]

i havnt ever used porterfields, so i cant vouch for them, i know people who do run them dont complain, bu i also know people who run Hawk Blues, Carbotech XP12's and Cobalt XR2's that dont complain either.

im working my way through the list we will see how the XR2's hold up this next event in march, if they work good and last ill run them all season. Some brake ducts this summer should help pad longevity also...

[bungl3]

hiya

the only spring rates offered with the ohlins kit were 8/6. i also have the same set up but youre springs look softer than mine and also arent the same colour so i cant help with what you have

pic of mine:
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o76/jrtuning_ben/susp2.jpg

good work with the car

[WhiteGLX]

hiya

the only spring rates offered with the ohlins kit were 8/6. i also have the same set up but youre springs look softer than mine and also arent the same colour so i cant help with what you have

pic of mine:
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o76/jrtuning_ben/susp2.jpg

good work with the car



i sent my coilovers to Ground-Control to be fitted with custom sleeves and springs. they will look like new once i am done, and if they fail this year i will have them revalved for better spring rates. Current spring rates will be 400lb/ 300lb which i think equates to about 7k/5k a huge upgrade from what i was running before, plus it will be height adjustable.

[bungl3]

i sent my coilovers to Ground-Control to be fitted with custom sleeves and springs. they will look like new once i am done, and if they fail this year i will have them revalved for better spring rates. Current spring rates will be 400lb/ 300lb which i think equates to about 7k/5k a huge upgrade from what i was running before, plus it will be height adjustable.

interested in pics when they arrive :) think i need one of mine reconning but the car hasnt seen the road since fitting lol so not 100% sure yet :(

if you dont mind me asking why those spring rates? im worried that 8/6 on track isnt going to be enough lol

height control is the only thing i wish the ohlins set up had :(

link to my project thread over on sxoc here....lots of updates to happen soon as i pick up the new shell in a week and hopefully get all the shell prep done the week after.....engine is waiting on a custom clutch :(
http://sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=289427

[WhiteGLX]

i chose those spring rates because starting off or going through a learning process you dont need ideal or very stiff spring rates, start low work your way up to something that really suits you. I have been running Tein S-techs for 3 years, so anything over 3k is an improvement. which is why im starting with 7k/ 5k and eventually working up to 8k/6k and maybe 9k/7k, but we will see. I prefer to get used to one setup milk it until its holding me back then upgrade.

[bungl3]

i chose those spring rates because starting off or going through a learning process you dont need ideal or very stiff spring rates, start low work your way up to something that really suits you. I have been running Tein S-techs for 3 years, so anything over 3k is an improvement. which is why im starting with 7k/ 5k and eventually working up to 8k/6k and maybe 9k/7k, but we will see. I prefer to get used to one setup milk it until its holding me back then upgrade.

sounds like a good plan :) i like to dive in feet first lol

was running kybs and apex springs on mine and it was awful, really floppy :( even with upgraded roll bars (sway bars?).

[frosty_the_iceman]

Nice work! I've been reading through this thread in sections, great stuff.

I like how you sourced the brake duct material from Aircraftspruce; I'm an aircraft mechanic so I when I saw the picture I thought "Hey, I've seen that stuff before!" and then I read the caption.

Please let us know how SAFC tuning goes. I'm considering one for an N/A KA with bolt-ons, but there seems to be a strong pro-standalone argument.

[racepar1]

i havnt ever used porterfields, so i cant vouch for them, i know people who do run them dont complain, bu i also know people who run Hawk Blues, Carbotech XP12's and Cobalt XR2's that dont complain either.

im working my way through the list we will see how the XR2's hold up this next event in march, if they work good and last ill run them all season. Some brake ducts this summer should help pad longevity also...

We used to use porterfield pads on our formula atlantic car. Pads lasted forever and my dad never complained about fade.

[veilside180sx]

What wheels are you running again?

That's the only REAL drawback to that Ohlin's setup (other than almost stock length) is that the flanges don't have much room for wide wheels w/o going towards the fenders.

[a_ahmed]

I wonder why people don't weld new flanges that are extended like your setup veilside? Seems fairly straightforward... I wonder why no one does it generally to other coilover setups either? It can definetely allow the ability to run some wider tires up front on s13s... add quite a bit of inner clearance... but will of course make it stick out more.. requiring potentially widebody or flares...

I've been running KYB + stech for 2 years lol... its floppy, rolls, bouncy... rough (ive driven in coilover setups and they felt less rough/bouncy/shitty) it sucks... hah... when I turned dampening all the way to the max, its okay, it feels even soft at high speed (not rough) but at low speeds is a NIGHTMARE lol... but it does the job until i get konis 8611 this summer i hope :) I am so fricking excited... I can't wait until bloody winter is over :( I wish I went with koni yellows to begin with.. I was unfortunately brainwashed by clueless/ricers from a local ontario forum who think they are 'jdm tyte' and the shit in what shit they have lol... and it was either kyb or megans the only way to go haha.... made me believe having 'coilovers' was 'race shyyyte' tyte... the best... that was two and a half years ago though :)... learned alot since then :P~ .. alot...

[veilside180sx]

In order to weld on the tubes for the Ohlins (or other sealed strut), the internals must be removed since it is under pressure.

That's what prevents people from added longer flanges to them for the most part.

[WhiteGLX]

Please let us know how SAFC tuning goes. I'm considering one for an N/A KA with bolt-ons, but there seems to be a strong pro-standalone argument.

SAFC will just be tuned enough to level the fuel out, it cant be used to "maximize power" or anything. I am also an A&P which is why i went to aircraft spruce just about before anything else, i know they had SCAT tubing and different home build brackets and such.



What wheels are you running again?

That's the only REAL drawback to that Ohlin's setup (other than almost stock length) is that the flanges don't have much room for wide wheels w/o going towards the fenders.

I am running 16x8 RX-7 FD wheels (+40 offset) with 245 Khumo V710's. I may end up upgrading to 17x9's this year so i can run 275 Hoosier R6's that a bunch of FF racers use a few times and trash since i cant use them.

The ohlins are being modified, ill deff post pictures for everyone to see, they will look just like the koni GC setup that people use, dimensionally that is.



In order to weld on the tubes for the Ohlins (or other sealed strut), the internals must be removed since it is under pressure.

That's what prevents people from added longer flanges to them for the most part.


i dont know how GC is doing the modifications, but the yare prolly welding to the shock, and they do this with many different shock companies for professional racers, so i can only assume that they will be doing this the right way, but we all know what happens when you assume.

[slider2828]

What brakes are you running with bmc? I use hawks hp+ pretty good better than HPS, but I love perfomance friction stuff.... Awesome quality awesome brakes, its what all the JGTC cars use and I had them on the bike. Great feel and ability to modulate the brakes

[WhiteGLX]

brake setup:

300zx calipers
Brembo blank rotors
Carbotech Brake pads XP12 F/ XP10 R
SS lines
S13 non-hicas brake booster
300ZX BMC

Hawk HP+ pads are not nearly enough anymore for track use, XP12's are enough but dont last long enough, so i will be switching to Cobalt XR2's this year.

[Rexbo]

Check out Kognitiondesign.com for some much nicer carbon fiber brake ducts!

[WhiteGLX]

i saw they make stuff, not too interested in it though. Mine is much cheaper and just as effective in my eyes.



FUllrace turbo manifold will NOT be going on teh car, was stolen out of my DD today, even though it was in a box and taped up. F*CK!!!!

[a_ahmed]

OMG! RETARDS! May they rot! I hope you find the scumbags who stole it :angry

[300hp owen]

wow wtf that is some thefty bollshat!

nice car, sad your mani got snaked, that is lame as fawk.

[TheArkitekt]

who steals a manifold? be sure to watch ebay

[Paul2x]

Here's some pic's from this Monday local Socal event. @ Streets (Nitto tire event)
with the silvia

great day, good weather, nothing broken..lol

Track config was CW with the blow pass and Skidpad.

will post some pic's and vid's soon

btw, messed up someone grabbed your mani. wth?1?

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a109/Paul2x/IMG_3216.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a109/Paul2x/apex.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a109/Paul2x/streets.jpg

[WhiteGLX]

nice car, any other track pics?

thats a pricy car to be trackin, keep it on the tarmac

[Paul2x]

nice car, any other track pics?

thats a pricy car to be trackin, keep it on the tarmac

Thanks,

I guess it all depends on how you look at it. Like all the P-car guys.

but it is much cheaper to mantain on the track then my GTR.

Are you familuar with TrackHq ? if so their is an entire thread with pic's and vid's

http://www.trackhq.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1022

[WhiteGLX]

you guys have a nice little crew there. I usually run with a few honda's all swapped and prepared for H1, so they are fast lil buggers.

[TheArkitekt]

hey paul! nice track pics. I think my friend ryan was at your house not to long ago picking up his 86?

[Paul2x]

hey paul! nice track pics. I think my friend ryan was at your house not to long ago picking up his 86?

LOL Yeah, Him and Anthony from Ohio Drift.

Small world =)

Thanks :bow:

[racepar1]

Here's some pic's from this Monday local Socal event. @ Streets (Nitto tire event)
with the silvia

great day, good weather, nothing broken..lol

Track config was CW with the blow pass and Skidpad.

will post some pic's and vid's soon

btw, messed up someone grabbed your mani. wth?1?


What'd you run? (times that is)

[steve shadows]

You make me sad Paul, I want to get out to the next one :x:

[WhiteGLX]

its sad i cant join you guys ever, east coast will be getting a handfull of me this year since i will be instructing about 11 event, and participating in 1 3day PCA event in may, so 12 total.

by the end of next month i will have new track footage to post up and hopefully some better pics of the car on track.

for now though everythign is falling aparts as far as suspension goes. Ohlins can not be fitted with GC coils, so i will be reassembling them and repainting them to prevent corrosion then selling.

[Paul2x]

What'd you run? (times that is)

Best of the day was 1.25.28


Ohlins can not be fitted with GC coils

PCV's use Eibach, did u give them a call?

[slider2828]

Is that 300zx all around?
-Ken

brake setup:

300zx calipers
Brembo blank rotors
Carbotech Brake pads XP12 F/ XP10 R
SS lines
S13 non-hicas brake booster
300ZX BMC

Hawk HP+ pads are not nearly enough anymore for track use, XP12's are enough but dont last long enough, so i will be switching to Cobalt XR2's this year.

[WhiteGLX]

Is that 300zx all around?
-Ken

yup yup, tho prolly only for this next year, the really high track temps are not working so well with them anymore, next year ill end up going to somethign a little nicer i think, or just a newer design of caliper.

[WhiteGLX]

PCV's use Eibach, did u give them a call?


PCV's? never heard of them. GC uses eibach coils also, its just the sleeves that wont fit on the ohlins shocks, sadly.

[Paul2x]

PCV's? never heard of them. GC uses eibach coils also, its just the sleeves that wont fit on the ohlins shocks, sadly.

Sorry thought u were running Ohlins coilovers, (they all use eibach springs)

Flag, PCV,RCV, just different ohlins dampers.

[steve shadows]

125?

nice man.

very very nice :Ownedd:

I'm worried now- :goyou:

[racepar1]

Best of the day was 1.25.28




PCV's use Eibach, did u give them a call?

What tires/size you runnin? Obviously r-compounds. That blows my last time there outta the water. You have just set my new target!

[bigOdom1]

i have discovered that the hawk hp + are great pads for a street car that occasionally sees a trackday/autox. except for the fact that they are very dusty, they are great street pads. what exactly are you all using for track/autox/hpde. im looking to try something else but was wondering what has been tried with z32 calipers.

[WhiteGLX]

for just track use....i have used Hawk Blues, Carbotech XP10, Carbotech XP12, and soon to test out is Cobalt XR2's. All are very agressive track pads, i dont deem them necessary unless you are in actual need of upgrading your pads, otherwise just stick with HP+'s.


as far as the shocks go, they are Soqi made (Ohlins Japan) a factory replacement shock with adjustability like KYB AGX's, except quality. Although because of the massive piston design, they cannot be retrofitted with a coilover sleeve. So i will be finishing the restoration and repainting of them, and then shipping them out the door, i just need to get some pictures up and a new thread.

[veilside180sx]

What are you going to do with it now? (suspension wise obviously)

[WhiteGLX]

I am working on getting a sponsor, who seems very interested in using me for advertising. They are pushing me to run one of their suspensions so we will see if that works out or not. Odds are itll be stances tho, some GR+'s with light springs. simple setup that seems to be pretty reliable for everyone one here.

[INeedNewTires]

nice pics......... How much does it cost you per track day? (entry fee, fuel, towing, tires, fluids, oils, etc. i mean TOTAL cost)

[tha240star]

To the OP...thanks for sharing your car's details... looks like it's coming along nicely. Good job, and have fun improving on your setup and driving.

Broaner...awesome weight. Guess you just proved to all the doubters:) My car should be down around that weight as well. I'll be going to the scales in August for a weigh-in.

About roadracing, I'd like to offer some of my experiences as well for grip driving. I'm not saying my setup is the way to go, and not saying I'm a know-it-all. Just sharing my experiences, that's all.

I recently relocated my fusebox and relay box to behind the dash, similar to whiteGLX. It was pretty easy, but I can see how somebody could mess it up. I did this to make the engine bay clean and to get more room up front so I can run more POSITIVE CASTER. I'm at +7 right now and occasionally rub the front part of fender well. Now I can bang it out and get up to +10 degrees.

My alignment: Front: -2.5 camber, .5 toe out, +7 caster. Rear: -1.5 camber, .25 toe in. Car is lowered too much right now and I am going to raise it a little bit. My links are angled up way too much. This doesn't prevent me from running very well at my track though.

For mods: I have:
spl fender brace
spl tension rod
Tanabe sways front and rear
cusco rear control arm and toe rod
kazama traction rod
Silk road coilvers (8/6)
Cusco strut bars (F+R)
subframe spacers (installed all 8)
Sr engine w/ stock turbo + FULLRACE mani at 240rwhp
fmic, koyo radiator, FAL twin fans...no oil cooler or PS cooler yet.
ZetaIII bucket (bucket seat was essential for me improving my driving).
Work s1, see sig. Currently on 235/40 and 245/40 bfg KDW (way too hard, can't wait to use the pilot sport cup)
Wilwood 4piston front brakes w/ 12.2" rotors.

I am very happy with my setup as it is....except for one thing. I am going to replace my Tanabe rear swaybar with the stock swaybar.

My track (mid-america motorplex) is mostly 3rd gear, and top speed up to about 130-140mph. and one 2nd gear turn. I can have the throttle all the way down midway through the apex on nearly every turn. I thought my setup might be too extreme and too stiff but it has proved to be very nice and my chassis/suspension flex is becoming very minimal.

Some of the turns require late apex for better laptimes. There are lots of S-turns and some double right turns.

The double right turns require a wide entry through the first turn while carrying higher entry speed. Approaching the second right and you simply let off the gas and unsettle the back end for a nice turn in and full throttle exit through the second right-turn. I really enjoy these turns.

As most of you know, simply getting partially through the turn and then throttling out while unwinding the steering works very well. My first outing had me getting full throttle after 3/4 of the turn, but more seat time and I'm now full throttle at mid-apex.

My end goal is to use an S15 turbo with r-compound (pilot sport cup because they last much longer than kumho/hoosier) while still getting full throttle at mid-apex.

I've been very impressed with the ability and reliability of my S13. Last time at the track and I passed a nice porsche w/ cage, huge wing, the works, some STIs on falken 615 tires, and two ZO6 vettes. The first ZO6 was unexperienced, easy kill. The second...well he looked like he knew how to drive. I was really amazed that I reeled him in through the course of a few laps. He finally gave the signal to pass, albeit very reluctantly:) Many people at the track ask me what kind of car it is, and many people are stunned that it can pass their MUCH more expensive cars. I had an instructor ride with me and he was very impressed with the handling, stating that it is on par with the ZO6s he races and rides in.

Stock turbo on SR is more than enough power for now, and the only thing planned for the future is more seat-time, an oil cooler, and r-compound. I do 20-30minute sessions with my water temp rising to a max of 95 degrees C. Maybe this is getting too hot? But I haven't had any problems yet, and run from 3-8pm (30minute sessions with cooldown in between). EGTs max at 870 degrees C.

When my supra is finished it will spank the laptimes of my nissan but that's expected (moton triple adjustable shocks and 285/315 r-compound).

People...mods are always a good thing but nothing is better than seat-time at a track, and time with an instructor in your car to give you pointers.

http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/4999/s13nz.jpg

http://img129.imageshack.us/img129/8951/s23rf.jpg

http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/1901/s38pz.jpg

http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/4919/s41qc.jpg

http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/6160/s55wc.jpg

http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/6182/s68px.jpg


The beginning:
http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/2253/s80ay.jpg

LOL
http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/5936/s73ok.jpg

how did u get the sound deadener out so clean, mine looks horrible:wtf: lol

[WhiteGLX]

lots of dryice, some patience, and a little elbow grease im sure. Mine came out that clean in a bunch of areas, but others where i wouldnt wait long enough of take my time is choppy or slightly dented.

[tha240star]

so i guess i already messed up then, i just started goin at it. i'll try and show u the pics, so u can say if its save-able

[racepar1]

You can also use a propane torch and a scraper, it just scratches the floor a bit. The trick is after you have removed the sound deadening there will be a residue left over, use lacquer thinner and some old bath towels to remove the residue. When you are done your floor should look like my floor.

[WhiteGLX]

nice pics......... How much does it cost you per track day? (entry fee, fuel, towing, tires, fluids, oils, etc. i mean TOTAL cost)

everything depends on how much you WANT to spend.

Hotel - $80/night
Track fee - $350/ 2day event
Tires - $200 used r-comps or $0 use whats on the car already
fuel - $40 /tank (maybe 3 tanks in one weekend)
tow vehicle fuel if you tow - $60/tank 1 tank of gas for close event, 2-4 for far away events
Oil and filter - $25
Food - $50

Total per weekend - $1000 average

i dont suggest a tow vehicle unless you dont think your car is reliable, or unless you have an actual racecar, just drive it otherwise save a bundle and dont drive on track at 110%.

dont buy special parts for your car just for one weekend of fun, use what you have or replace parts that are necessary. I tow my car because its for track only, not tagged, not insured. I drive my car at a pretty high potential each time out because i dont have to worry about driving home. Though only 1 event i wasnt able to drive home if i had the choice out of 16 events total. Dotn worry about buying super nice brake fluid, r-comps, aero work, special engine oil, brake ducting, coilovers, race seats etc.... Everything is overated unless you track your car regularly, just drive what you have and have fun with it, no need to try and force it into being a race car if you dont know how to drive it as it sits already.

Everyone on here is going to hate me for admitting my personal track costs now.

Hotel - $50/night (discount trough friend)
Track fee - $0/ 2day event (instructor status)
Tires - $75 per event ($200 for used set of r-comps, they last me 3 events)
fuel - $40 /tank (3 tanks in one weekend max)
tow vehicle fuel if you tow - $60/tank (1 tank of gas for close event, 2-4 for far away events)
Oil and filter - $0 (i only change my oil 2x per season, i know what the data says, but i havnt had an issue yet.)
Food - $50

Total per weekend - $500 average

I went through years of spending the money to be at the track, towing my car and learning as much as i could so i could get to the instructor point, and meet the people who could save me a bundle on a hotel room or i would camp. I am absolutely psyched to be there now, i can save a ton, each and every weekend.

[racepar1]

Track days are fuckin expensive man! I would estimate my costs per day to be (not including tire wear) about $300 per day. I drive my car to the track early in the morning, no towing/hotel. I have my buddy come with me to help and he likes to be at the track so much that he pays for his own gas (sucka)! So all I have left is MY gas and food/souveniers for me and my buddy. I have not yet attended a 2 day event specifically for cost reasons, not to mention wifey wouldn't exactly love for me to be gone overnight.

[Paul2x]

What tires/size you runnin? Obviously r-compounds. That blows my last time there outta the water. You have just set my new target!


That was with Nt01's 235 up front and 255 in the rear.

Right when i got the car, in basacally stock trim went out to the track w/ street tires I did a 1.28.xx

next is aero parts i believe.

[TheArkitekt]

That was with Nt01's 235 up front and 255 in the rear.

Right when i got the car, in basacally stock trim went out to the track w/ street tires I did a 1.28.xx

next is aero parts i believe.

same setup i run, except i use toyos. i think its well balanced for the S chassis cars

[racepar1]

That was with Nt01's 235 up front and 255 in the rear.

Right when i got the car, in basacally stock trim went out to the track w/ street tires I did a 1.28.xx

next is aero parts i believe.

I don't think that you were running the full course man. There is absolutely NO WAY you could run a 28 on street tires on the full course with pretty much ANY car in the world. Shit the EVO X only ran a 31 with a pro driver on the full course clockwise. Your claimed 25 is also too quick for the full course. At the last event I attended at the streets full course CW there was a full-race C-6 vette running giant hoosiers and they were running 25's. I really don't wanna piss anyone off, but I call BULLSHIT! Maybe this is all just a mis-understanding.

[steve shadows]

That was with Nt01's 235 up front and 255 in the rear.

Right when i got the car, in basacally stock trim went out to the track w/ street tires I did a 1.28.xx

next is aero parts i believe.

How would you feel about 255 all the way around?

I have the same stager as you right now but with Azenis. It's a joke

[Paul2x]

I don't think that you were running the full course man. There is absolutely NO WAY you could run a 28 on street tires on the full course with pretty much ANY car in the world. Shit the EVO X only ran a 31 with a pro driver on the full course clockwise. Your claimed 25 is also too quick for the full course. At the last event I attended at the streets full course CW there was a full-race C-6 vette running giant hoosiers and they were running 25's. I really don't wanna piss anyone off, but I call BULLSHIT! Maybe this is all just a mis-understanding.

LOL take it easy,

Sound's like u and the guy in the vette need a bit more practice...j/k

For your reference though since the BS card was thrown,
Here's a vid of my friends stock elise on bald street tires running a 1.28.5 the same day we were their:
http://www.trackhq.com/forums/photopost562/showphoto.php/photo/12090

That's CW with blow by and skid pad, which is the full course to my knowledge....same design most events run and testing is done on.

and when i did my 1.28 i had good street tires, after some work and Nt01's i'm in the low 1.25's maybe another sec or two w/ hosiers who know's?

YOur more than welcome to join my friends and I next time out to one of our events, i see that your local so i'll be sure to shoot you a PM before the next event.

Btw, what are your times?

[racepar1]

How would you feel about 255 all the way around?

I have the same stager as you right now but with Azenis. It's a joke

255's ROCK! Perfect fitment! I love to whore out my car by the way! LOL!

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj283/racepar1/bigwillow002.jpg

[racepar1]

LOL take it easy,

Sound's like u and the guy in the vette need a bit more practice...j/k

For your reference though since the BS card was thrown,
Here's a vid of my friends stock elise on bald street tires running a 1.28.5 the same day we were their:
http://www.trackhq.com/forums/photopost562/showphoto.php/photo/12090

and when i did my 1.28 i had good street tires, after some work and Nt01's i'm in the low 1.25's maybe another sec or two w/ hosiers who know's?

YOur more than welcome to join my friends and I next time out to one of our events.

Btw, what are your times?

I ran a 1:34.2 last time out (shakedown event). I probably should have run a 32 or 33, but I spun on my flyer at the end of the day. A 25 is just too quick, I can't quite believe you. A 35 for you is entirely possible (actually a bit slow) and a 28 in a lotus is entirely possible. I'll definitely take you up on the offer to attend next time, I just gotta see for myself. When is the next event?

[Paul2x]

A 25 is just too quick, I can't quite believe you. A 35 for you is entirely possible (actually a bit slow)

LOL, well i'm not sure to take that as a complement or insult, haven't quite figured out why you think i'm only capiable of a 1.35'-ish, and defently not capiable of 1.25's ? I dont get it?

Anyway, all things aside, i'm not lying, have no reason too.

but for real lets attend the next event together, (technically some how we sould run the same times) so lets do it.

Their's an event this Friday at streets w/ speed ventures, running CCW (which i've never done before) Can u make this Friday?


btw, since your local and into roadracing u sould check out www.trackhq.com
you'll find a bunch of guys that run sub-130's at streets, and lots of good info

[deucen]

I had Cusco Zero2R coilovers, Autopower Race Rollbar (not in this pic), G2X Datalogger, Ferodo DS3000 front and Ferodo DS2500 rear brake pads and a RaceComp Engineering Kool Brake Kit. (All mods are gone now :()

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y141/BlackSC3/pic.jpg

My best time bone stock w/ mild race pads at Streets was a 1:31.2 w/ a passenger

[WhiteGLX]

its really hard to call BS on someone elses laptimes, when the timing could have been done in any fashion that made it off in some way, maybe the track was stickier, tires grippier, driver more willing to push the limit, pads not getting too hot, engine running stronger. everyday of every event is different, and between 2 completely different drivers who may drive entirely different or be at different skill levels.

I know in my run groups here on the east coast i play with the Vetts', Mustang Cobras, M3's etc....my car is way underpowered in comparison, i run smaller tires, my car weighs less, but i also seem to be a bit of a smoother driver, late braker, and general different power band. I run the same general lap times as Honda Challenge H2 cars, my lap times have come a long way with experience, practice, patience and ahrd work, i used to run times 15sec slower 2 years ago, my only chnage has been better brakes, better tires, and less power.

You can call BS on people's lap times all day, but maybe he drives 100% on track and you drive 80%, maybe hes got 80more whp than you along with better tires and brakes, anything could be that 7 second difference, i mean maybe, just maybe.....hes a better driver. I dont know sh*t about west coast tracks so i cant even pu tin my 2 cents about whats up. Just think it through about how many things could differe between two different drivers with different cars running different imes on different days.....anything goes at this point.

[deucen]

^^^ I agree with that. My friend with a bone stock STI ran a 1:29 going CCW while I'm still at the 1:31s. The only difference is he has balls and much, much more track experience that I do.

[jaku]

even my BONE BONE BONE STOCK S2000 (including OEM tires) can run 1'30.3, why can't a tuned S15 run 1'28s street or 1'25s on R tires? Below are video proof my 1'30.3 and Jay's 1'25.8 FD chasing Paul!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_uuSkM3CLE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocmrbIIbTfw

for "full course" argument tho, now blowpass is more popular than non-blowpass (Turn 4), so it's hard to say which one is the "full course" now!

however, for a referance to judge the difference between new and old config, blowpass/no blowpass + new berms after back straight chicane,

i use bone stock S2000 record as a comparsion, 1'31.8 vs 1'30.3, it's about 1.5s, and you can judge the part on the Turn 4

also if anyone hasn't seen the video from Best Motoring, Tsuchia ran 1'29.5s with bone stock Cayman S on old config

lastly the pro driver who tested EVO X didn't give the best potential of the EVO X at SOWS and you can tell from their data graph + EVO IV/X is quite in the similar speed to Cayman S

[TheArkitekt]

its really hard to call BS on someone elses laptimes, when the timing could have been done in any fashion that made it off in some way, maybe the track was stickier, tires grippier, driver more willing to push the limit, pads not getting too hot, engine running stronger. everyday of every event is different, and between 2 completely different drivers who may drive entirely different or be at different skill levels.

I know in my run groups here on the east coast i play with the Vetts', Mustang Cobras, M3's etc....my car is way underpowered in comparison, i run smaller tires, my car weighs less, but i also seem to be a bit of a smoother driver, late braker, and general different power band. I run the same general lap times as Honda Challenge H2 cars, my lap times have come a long way with experience, practice, patience and ahrd work, i used to run times 15sec slower 2 years ago, my only chnage has been better brakes, better tires, and less power.

You can call BS on people's lap times all day, but maybe he drives 100% on track and you drive 80%, maybe hes got 80more whp than you along with better tires and brakes, anything could be that 7 second difference, i mean maybe, just maybe.....hes a better driver. I dont know sh*t about west coast tracks so i cant even pu tin my 2 cents about whats up. Just think it through about how many things could differe between two different drivers with different cars running different imes on different days.....anything goes at this point.

I couldn't agree more. Last time i was at mid ohio i was swapping times with a tuned M roadster, and a vette. Again with smaller tires, less brake and less power, but a lighter car. I think 50% of time on the track is the driver, the other 50% the car. Our shop ran an EVO 9 last year, stock turbo, good suspension setup with good tires and we beat an EVO with 100 more hp, better brakes and more tire by 3 seconds.

Best solution is to take it to the track and find out. But ultimately I trust what Paul claims, hes been in the game a long time and has no reason to fabricate lap times.

[WhiteGLX]

lap times are completely meaningless if you are still in the HPDE scene, unless you are W2W racing or doing a glorified auto-x (time attack/ time trial) then times count.

I use lap times with friends so we can help judge improvement overall or in certain sections, not as bragging rights. All you need to really do is go to the track with some friends, people or equal talents and work on getting faster in certain areas by using the input from your fiends who were behind you or in front of you. Use everything as a tool to learn more, not just to say you ran such and such a time.

If the banter about track times continues ill prolly end up abandoning my own thread due to little boy sillyness.

SIDE NOTE:
i found a way to keep my car out of the NASA ST classing and in PTA. It will involve not making the car vary light and not going overkill with power. Concentrate on skill and suspension and i should be able to be very competitive in the PT classing. when the time comes, its nice to know i have found a way to put a limit on my modding.

[racepar1]

LOL, well i'm not sure to take that as a complement or insult, haven't quite figured out why you think i'm only capiable of a 1.35'-ish, and defently not capiable of 1.25's ? I dont get it?

Anyway, all things aside, i'm not lying, have no reason too.

but for real lets attend the next event together, (technically some how we sould run the same times) so lets do it.

Their's an event this Friday at streets w/ speed ventures, running CCW (which i've never done before) Can u make this Friday?


btw, since your local and into roadracing u sould check out www.trackhq.com (http://www.trackhq.com)
you'll find a bunch of guys that run sub-130's at streets, and lots of good info

Trust me it is DEFINITELY a compliment. From what I have seen at the streets anything under a 1:30 in a "street" car is fuckin flying! I have no doubt that you are faster than me. I am just really learning the set-ups and learning how the car feels when it is truly at the edge. Not to mention that I have a stock KADE still. I guarantee your NT01's are worth at least 3-4 seconds over my azenis as well. Also most people posting in this thread have more track experience than me. I felt as though I was pushing my car pretty damn hard when I went, I definitely felt as though the tires were holding me back though (I was still on 235's back then, and old ones at that). I would anticipate a sub-1:30 lap if I went tomorrow as my set-up has changed considerably, and I've had a couple months to figure out where I was having problems. As for THIS friday I just can't do it. :( Rent is due! Unfortuanetly that is just more important then heading to the track for nothing but my personal gratification. I would definitely like to hook-up with some fast s-chasis drivers, I haven't really had a chance to run with any REALLY fast s-chasis yet. I wish the event was in a couple of weeks, I could make that.

[jaku]

http://www.speedventures.com/events/Default.aspx

there will be couple good events coming soon in March, make plans and prepare car early so you don't miss or rush any events you wanna go

i have couple s13/s14 friends grip/drift their KAs, you will expect some good competitions and have more fun in the future

i'm just curious, was this you?

http://www.speedventures.com/results/Default.aspx?id=-2147236858

if so, the z06 was actually running 1'22s by Oli, who is also on trackHQ

[racepar1]

That's me! The z-06 ran a 25 in the one session I ran with it, I really didn't check the rest of his times. Those speedventures bastards didn't post my times for big willow though! Assholes! I have run with speedventures twice now and am fairly impressed with their organization. The only problem I have had so far is that it took them well over an hour to post my fucking times from my last session at the big willow event. I'm glad I stayed to find out though cuz I wouldn't know if I didn't since they didn't post my times online. I'm gunna shoot for the march 21st speedventures event at the streets for my next event and I am DEFINITELY gunna go to the one at california speedway too!

[bigOdom1]

are you all shaving the nt01's?

[racepar1]

I don't really think there is much of a point to shaving NT01's. Maybe you would lose a bit of tread flex, but you would lose A LOT of life on the tire. Now heat cycling on the other hand is a good idea for any track tire. It yeilds more consistent performance throughout the life of the tire and also extends the life of said tire a bit.

[a_ahmed]

man that track... i wish we had that exact trakc in canada... shit man... you guys in states get nice tracks... well at least much nicer than whats in canada... it looks so sick...and then there's UK, germany and europe.. they get even more......

[alex7]

Just like to point out a fact that you can understeer your way to a 1:35 at CCW streets with VSA ON in bone stock S2000.

Just an FYI if anyone thinks 1:35 is what an S15 should be doing.

[sirhc]

Danm! I learned a lot from reading this whole thread. :hyper:

[racepar1]

Just like to point out a fact that you can understeer your way to a 1:35 at CCW streets with VSA ON in bone stock S2000.

Just an FYI if anyone thinks 1:35 is what an S15 should be doing.

UMMMM we're talking about clockwise which from what I have heard is supposed to be a faster way around the track. A 1:35 would be just a bit slow for a well-built s-chasis car on SOWS clockwise. Shit I ran a bunch of 1:34's and it was my first full track day and the shakedown event on the car.

[Olitho]

Shit the EVO X only ran a 31 with a pro driver on the full course clockwise.

At the last event I attended at the streets full course CW there was a full-race C-6 vette running giant hoosiers and they were running 25's.

I read that same review of the EVO X. I thought the time was slow, too. I am not sure who the "pro" driver is that tested that car, but I find the term "pro" to oftentimes be thrown around too liberally. I know folks who I am fairly certain could break 1:30 in that car in stock trim.

As far as race prepped Corvettes go, I run a Touring 1 C5 Z06, all stock on the drive train, stiffer springs, sway bars and shocks, race rubber and brake pads, and with a full interior. The car weighs about 3100 lbs and I run 1:22s in both directions and I am working on breaking into the 1:21s. With some work, most people can shave 2-3 seconds off of their times on that track. More can be had in most cases with seat time on SoWS than with car modifications.

I will be out there on Friday, March 21st running with the SpeedVentures.com guys.

:2f2f: :2f2f: :2f2f:

[steve shadows]

So I picked up some KTS for the car

8 and 6

TOO STIFF

imo

I am going to get some springs to replace, the dampers are fine, I the shock body and adjustment etc.

I think a 7 F 5 R

( similar to 400 / 300 ) would be a lot smoother.

especially with my HP

What does everyone say about compound and spring rates?

I have heard a lot of people keep the slightly stiffer spring rate when switching to a stickier tire? Should I wait and just try the R-comps before switching the rates down a spot?

[S14SwimShark105]

Are 8kF and 6kR really that stiff? I'm running 8Kf and 6Kr on some Apexi N1 exv coilovers and I wish i had stiffer springs, I'm running some bridgestone re-01r's and sometimes some Nt-01's so I guess those can be classified as some sticky tires and it is a little too soft in my opinion.

You should try out the R-compounds first at the track and then you might change your mind and want stiffer springs! haha

[racepar1]

So I picked up some KTS for the car

8 and 6

TOO STIFF

imo

I am going to get some springs to replace, the dampers are fine, I the shock body and adjustment etc.

I think a 7 F 5 R

( similar to 400 / 300 ) would be a lot smoother.

especially with my HP

What does everyone say about compound and spring rates?

I have heard a lot of people keep the slightly stiffer spring rate when switching to a stickier tire? Should I wait and just try the R-comps before switching the rates down a spot?

Remember though that you will NEED stiffer springs since you are switching to r-compounds. The extra tire grip will cause more body roll and you need stiffer springs to limit that. I am running 9 and 7 on my s-13 with azenis and so far I have not felt the need to go softer, actually I used to run 7's in the front too, but I decided to stiffen it up because I could see that the car was cornering on the bump stops in some pictures and I already have 30 mil and 28 mil hollow sway bars. 240's have NOTORIOUSLY little travel in the front. I stiffened the front springs and cut about 1/2in off the bumpstops ant the car doesn't seem to be hitting the bump stops under heavy cornering anymore. As a matter of fact it actually seems to ride better as well.

[brokeAs240sx]

Are 8kF and 6kR really that stiff? I'm running 8Kf and 6Kr on some Apexi N1 exv coilovers and I wish i had stiffer springs

8/6 feeling varies from coilover -> coilover (at least from the ones I've ridden in).

So I picked up some KTS for the car

8 and 6

TOO STIFF

imo


I used to run KTS coilovers, it's not the 8/6 spring rate, it's the springs themselves. They feel really rough for daily, but once you are on smooth streets (aka track surfaces) it's not so bad.

I run Megan coilovers now w/ 8/6 Swift springs - feels completely different. It actually feels slightly softer (@ softer dampening settings) than my friend who runs Apexi coilovers w/ the stock 8/6 spring.

If you want to run 7/5, go ahead and try - different people like different setups, all depends on what else you have & your driving style - but I would personally first go w/ 8/6 Swift springs, then work from there - don't just take my word for it, basically EVERYONE loves how swift springs feel.

[DiyMan25]

lap times are completely meaningless if you are still in the HPDE scene, unless you are W2W racing or doing a glorified auto-x (time attack/ time trial) then times count.

I use lap times with friends so we can help judge improvement overall or in certain sections, not as bragging rights. All you need to really do is go to the track with some friends, people or equal talents and work on getting faster in certain areas by using the input from your fiends who were behind you or in front of you. Use everything as a tool to learn more, not just to say you ran such and such a time.

If the banter about track times continues ill prolly end up abandoning my own thread due to little boy sillyness.


hi to every on on this forum. I am the guy who drive FD' chasing S15...
But I enjoy this more then my FD(Track wise) !!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8fsKTAWFt4

Did a 1.25.1. 130WHP. Junk yard 13B with 50 Dellorto :)



I have disagree with you on this(timing wise). One reason. I Dont really like to about HPDE with people is...... They dont know how fast or any clue they are going !!!!. Joe(A) will said "you know I am super fast today!!. I am cracking 120 mile on straight way..." Joe(B) will said " You know I am super fast today. I pass 3 Porsche in this session". Joe(C) will said " you know I am super fast today. I am sliding my 295 tire !!"

Seriously You can feel you are fast. but you are not..... How can you improve. by not know how fast you are going........ in your case. is so lucky you have friend that run same pace with you. but for most of us. all we get is our self. so in my case. By timing my self, Data log it. and video tape it. are the only way to do it !!

One dow side of USA as HPDE wise. USA is too big. have too many track in each state. so is a very hard in US to compare lap times........

:D

[racepar1]

I think that you are really going the fastest when it just doesn't feel fast. When you are driving around the track and everything just feels too easy, you are probably running your fastest lap of the day. Lap times are nothing but a reference point. I was so blown away by paul2x's 1:25 because it was so much faster than my previous reference point. Now that I have changed that point in my mind I will not be so blown away when someone claims a time like that. I am constantly striving to improve my car, set-ups, and driving and I really needed that awakening to judge my personal progress.

[a_ahmed]

someone mentions swift springs... dont forget hyperco which are local

[racepar1]

And eibach. It seems like nobody likes eibach, but they have been making race springs since before most of us were even born. Also from what I have seen eibach is about $25 per spring cheaper than swift.

[TheArkitekt]

I've found that swifts are some of the lightest springs on the market. Unsprung weight is a big deal (as im sure all of you know) which is why all of our shop tuned coilovers use swift springs.