Need Instructions to Pull Out KA24DE from S14...

[Gnnr]

Well, I'm going to be pulling the engine out for the first time to drop in another KA. If anyone has any experience doing this and can give me some instructions, I'd greatly appreciate it. Any links or anything that can help me out. Me and a bud of mine are going to do it, probally rent a hoist (think thats what you call it) to chain up the engine and pull 'er out. Don't know what other tools I may need???

Thanks in advance.

[aznpoopy]

you need typical tools...

ratchets, wrenches, breaker bars, screwdrivers, grips, pb blaster, etc... same shit you need for any other typical job on the car.

the FSM has a procedure... but it boils down to

batt disconnect
unbolting mounts
unplugging every harness plug
detaching all the hoses, vacuum, fuel, etc
draining all fluids
removing anything that will get in the way (fan, radiator, intake tubing, driveshaft etc.)
dropping the tranny (you can opt to take it out together with the engine)
finally chaining it up and pulling it out.

it is a pain in the ass dude... good luck.

[hipro]

Is this a same year engine swap, or is it a different year (s14 vs. S13 or OBDI vs. OBDII) and, for the tranny, is it the same (5 speed vs. auto)? If you are pulling identical engine/tranny or just engine, it is a straight forward swap. If you have different year engines or trannys, or major changes, you just need to think ahead about those changes before dismantling too much, such as intake mani swap, O2 sensor swap, new gaskets, clutch condition, etc. Also, for the engine you are putting back in, think about its current condition, such as all gaskets and seals... they sure are easier to replace while outside the chassis than once you have the engine back in. Also, double check all connections at the back of the engine for tightness; it sure is hard to get back to those heater/water lines after the engine is back in.

If you rent an engine hoist, make sure you get the adjustable angle lift bracket and mount at the front of engine and rear because you will need to tilt the engine/tranny substantially to both remove and reinstall the engine set. I actually use a set of heavy nylon adjustable straps instead of chains when pulling an engine. The straps get greasy but I prefer to have the nylon straps against the engine instead of metal chain links.

Always work with a partner both for safety reasons and to have someone to share thoughts/ideas. I check my email often, so shoot an email if you get in a bind. [email protected]

[Revolver Ocelot]

Its real basic, it took me a day to pull and clean the engine bay and new motor and about another day to make sure everything was working right. Just pull the motor and trenny together, alot simpler that way. Also watch out if you have AC cause the freon is hazardous.

[redsuns3838]

EASY. first drain all fluids, take out shifter, unbolt mounts, take off all hoses and wiring, take out rad, take off downpipe , and ur ready to go, pull the sucker out its really simple. if u need a FSm PM me with ur email and il send a PDF version over to u. u shouldnt have a problem i did it with a crappy tool set, all u need is a few diff size sockets like 8 mm-18 mm sockets and u wont need anymore tools.

keep intake and exhaust mani on. i made mistake of taking both off and found out i didnt need to after i pulled the engine. actually my friend insisted we take them off....what an ass haha.

[hipro]

Good point about being careful with A/C. We usually don't break A/C lines UNLESS we are totally getting rid of A/C. Just unbolt the compressor from the block, tie if up on the side area, and leave all the lines in place and attached together. When the new engine goes in, bolt it right back up, add the compressor belt, and you are back in business with A/C.

[420sx]

fuck an AC. real men dont need it

[Drunk Bastard]

ka removal:
step 1: install chain across top of motor
step 2: use large construction crane to lift up
step 3: use momentum to launch KA as far away as possible
step 4: slap another motor in there

[Revolver Ocelot]

Step 5: Drink another beer, take a piss on your old KA and call it a night.

[aznpoopy]

Good point about being careful with A/C. We usually don't break A/C lines UNLESS we are totally getting rid of A/C. Just unbolt the compressor from the block, tie if up on the side area, and leave all the lines in place and attached together. When the new engine goes in, bolt it right back up, add the compressor belt, and you are back in business with A/C.

goddamnit... where was this advice two months ago. :(

[Mervyn]

search button.

[chlatboy]

fuck an AC. real men dont need it

but they sure wish they had it!!!
:nono:

[Drunk Bastard]

Step 5: Drink another beer, take a piss on your old KA and call it a night.

bwahaha, yea, well i thought the whole "drink alcohol" thing was a given...

[Gnnr]

Also, for the engine you are putting back in, think about its current condition, such as all gaskets and seals... they sure are easier to replace while outside the chassis than once you have the engine back in. Also, double check all connections at the back of the engine for tightness; it sure is hard to get back to those heater/water lines after the engine is back in. [email protected]

Thanks for the heads up on that, I do plan to prep the new KA thats going to go in there. I have the FSM, where does it give instructions to pull it out? Also, what fluids will I be draining, so I know how many bottles to source. The A/C lines will remain intact, so freeon wont be drained I suppose, since I'm keeping the A/C. I'm trying to source a same year engine, or atleast same body (s14).

Sorry guys, no SR this time. I'm just trying to get the car running and will probally sell it so I can buy another S14 in better condition Also, its automatic, but I dont think I'll be changing the transmission unless I find a really good deal on a engine/tranny combo. I have iinstructions for a 5spd swap so I'm ok on that if I do go ahead with it. It dosen't sound too dificult, I just know its going to be time consuming.

fuck an AC. real men dont need it
Uhh, I live in S. Florida, its humid and hot as hell....men who want to live need A/C. Haha.

Thanks for the help everyone.

[aznpoopy]

Thanks for the heads up on that, I do plan to prep the new KA thats going to go in there. I have the FSM, where does it give instructions to pull it out?

engine mechanical EM32

Also, what fluids will I be draining, so I know how many bottles to source.

coolant from block and rad
transmission fluid
motor oil
you will probably lose alot of powersteering fluid
possibly nissan a/c oil

refill capacities are in the quick reference in the FSM

. I'm trying to source a same year engine, or atleast same body (s14).

what year is your s14?

[DoriftoPnoy]

When dropping the tranny, will you have to line it up to the engine again? If so do you need "special tools"? And what about the drive shafts, like i hear you have to align those too when reinstalling.

[aznpoopy]

yes and yes.

aligning the transmission can be a bitch, but only because its heavy.

installing the driveshaft is easy; it pretty much forces you to install it correctly because of the way the bolts are.

[theicecreamdan]

there should be at least a 6 pack consumed during a motor remove and replace.

[sxse240]

Also, keep in mind that if the motor you're swapping in happens to be from a 5-speed car, you'll need a "pilot converter", part number 12230-45L00 for about $8 at your Nissan dealership. Drive it in with a socket and a hammer into the end of your crank. It basically just centers the converter.

[MakotoS13]

takin the hoe apart is the easy part. whats the complication?

[Gnnr]

what year is your s14?

Its a 95 (made in nov/94 i believe).

[chlatboy]

If you have all the part ready, it should take you less than a day.

[aznpoopy]

Its a 95 (made in nov/94 i believe).

short of getting another early 95 ka24de; you're most likely going to have to do some research to get another engine up and running in your car.

[hipro]

Also, keep in mind that if the motor you're swapping in happens to be from a 5-speed car, you'll need a "pilot converter", part number 12230-45L00 for about $8 at your Nissan dealership. Drive it in with a socket and a hammer into the end of your crank. It basically just centers the converter.

FYI - my empty box showed the part # for the pilot converter as 12330-45L00. Last time I ordered these, seemed like it took several weeks to arrive; my local dealer does not keep them in stock. www.courtesyparts.com sells them for less than $5 each - not on their website, so you have to call 1-800-527-1909.