exhaust, intake, headers

[DM240sx]

Ok I've already made my decision to get my intake, headers, and exhaust. I know I'm getting an Injen intake with the CAI maybe. Can anyone tell me the pros and the cons of getting the CAI? But yeah, I've seen real good results at Injen.com showing about a 14hp increase. For the headers, it's either between Hotshot or Greddy. Can you tell me some pros and cons for both? And finally the exhaust. I really want the A'PEXi GT spec exhaust but I'm not sure if it has a cat or not. I want my exhaust to be legal. If it doesn't I'm just gonna go with the n1. Can you compare the two because I've only heard the GT spec and not the n1. if i got the n1 and stayed NA, what would be the difference if I got the turbo application than the NA application? Would it sound and perform different? Any help would be good.

[DSC]

First there is no way in #### an intake is going to give you 14hp...never trust company dynos. Maybe 5 for the intake and another 3 or so with the extension. For the header, I've heard greddy fits better and doesn't replace the cat while the hotshot performs slightly better, has fitment problems and replaces the cat (probably why it performs better). For the exhaust if you get the GT spec your car will be horrable loud and you are likely to actually lose power because the piping is too big. For N/a you don't want any bigger than 2.5" or so. The GT spec is 3.5" and is for turboed engines ONLY. I don't know the piping size of the n1 but as long as it is less than 3" you should be fine with that. If you get the injen intake with extension, hotshot header, and n1 exhaust you could expect roughly 20whp...that sound right?
Someone will surely correct me if I'm wrong...

[dsjunkie]

ummm....*thinking*.....on average you can expect about 18-25 from headers, exhaust, and intake.....your numbers sound good to me

[dsjunkie]

ummm....*thinking*.....on average you can expect about 18-25 from headers, exhaust, and intake.....your numbers sound good to me

[Ni5mo180SX]

I dont know if you'd lose power from the exhaust, maybe a bit of torque and gain some top end hp instead. If your looking at the SR swap down the line, might as well get the proper exhaust now.

[Fuzzy Ewok]

I dunno...3.75" piping is big (GT Spec is 95 mm)...I'd never put that on a NA system.  You could get the N1 for an NA or Turbo application...I don't know the piping sizes, though.  Like was said, I don't think you'd want anything over 3" for an NA (but if you're going turbo eventually, you could use 3" for a while and save money).

[Fuzzy Ewok]

As an afterthought, if you're going turbo down the road, you'll have to replace the header and intake too, so...  But if you're staying NA, then get the N1 NA application, not the Turbo one.  That's my advice.

[S13Grl]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Quote: from dsjunkie on 1:20 pm on Mar. 4, 2002
ummm....*thinking*.....on average you can expect about 18-25 from headers, exhaust, and intake.....your numbers sound good to me
</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

NO CHANCE!!! You'll get 15 at the MOST. I've seen people dyno their KAs with basic bolt-ons. As a matter of fact, my boyfriend dynoed 145-9 (can't quite remember) with intake, full exhaust (headers to cat), in addition to a lightweight flywheel and a lightweight pulley. A person with injen intake only dynoed 3 horses more than stock.

[Ni5mo180SX]

Check out SCC's dyno of a 240 with intake and exhaust, another 13hp to the wheels, which I honestly would find hard to believe with NA cars but not really with the 240. Stock pipings inner diameter on the S13 is 1.8 inch. A 2.4L motor is sharing the same size piping with a Civics 1.6!! And Nissan tends to have &quot;restrict&quot; there cars with the exhaust piping. I dont know how much power exactly it'll give but of all the bolt ons when I had exhaust, it was the only that gave an actual noticable difference.

[LanceS13]

You may only gain 15 peak hp, but I wouldn't think 20-25 hp gain somewhere in the power band is out of the question...not to mention the easier air flow would move the power band up in the rpm range to take better advantage of the gearing.

[dsjunkie]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Quote: from S13Grl on 8:43 am on Mar. 4, 2002
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Quote: from dsjunkie on 1:20 pm on Mar. 4, 2002
ummm....*thinking*.....on average you can expect about 18-25 from headers, exhaust, and intake.....your numbers sound good to me
</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

NO CHANCE!!! You'll get 15 at the MOST. I've seen people dyno their KAs with basic bolt-ons. As a matter of fact, my boyfriend dynoed 145-9 (can't quite remember) with intake, full exhaust (headers to cat), in addition to a lightweight flywheel and a lightweight pulley. A person with injen intake only dynoed 3 horses more than stock.
</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>


are you joking?!?!?! &nbsp;i have a friend that cranked out almost 20hp (i think it was something like 17) w/ bolt ons....who knows, it's prolly the way the engine is....he drives a mazda anyways....wait, well sh*t, it's a v-6, no freakin WONDER, i must be on crack....ok i'm stupid, i retract my last statement :-)...oh well, i said the numbers sounded good anyways, i didnt say they were possible :-)

[Sick240]

Whats up? I currently have th Hotshot Header, and N1 cat back, and I have no idea what you guys are talking about with the getting rid of the cat thing, header is block to cat, cat back, well look at the name, after cat, btw, its 3". &nbsp;As far as the intake goes, I am still waiting on mine, lates

[Tuck&Poke]

dont get all those bs headers just go ahead and save for a turbo. &nbsp;bolt ons suck my ass and they give marginal preformance gains for the money. &nbsp;id rather spend 3000 bucks on a turbo and screw the rest. &nbsp;find out if you wanna go turbo or na then ask what you should get

[s14vaxlr8]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Fuzzy Ewok @ Mar. 04 2002,1:40)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">But if you're staying NA, then get the N1 NA application, not the Turbo one. That's my advice.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
there is not a n/a and a turbo application for the n1, the n1 is built for the sr, therefor you cannot buy a n/a n1 exuast, however if you like the look of the n1 and want to stay non turbo you could always buy the universal canister and do a custom piping job so you do not loose low end torque

[Tyler Durdan]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (minime686 @ Mar. 04 2002,7:30)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">dont get all those bs headers just go ahead and save for a turbo. bolt ons suck my ass and they give marginal preformance gains for the money. id rather spend 3000 bucks on a turbo and screw the rest. find out if you wanna go turbo or na then ask what you should get</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
I would never just go and buy a turbo application before doing the basic bolt ons first. Plus, if you turbo it, you will still have restrictive air flow and after all, turbos work off exhaust gases. So, you go ahead and buy a 3000 turbo application and pull maybe 7psi for a little while before you throw a rod <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'>. I'm not trying to come off as a dick, but that's a really ignorant thought.

[LanceS13]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Tyler Durdan @ Mar. 05 2002,9:29)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (minime686 @ Mar. 04 2002,7:30)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">dont get all those bs headers just go ahead and save for a turbo. bolt ons suck my ass and they give marginal preformance gains for the money. id rather spend 3000 bucks on a turbo and screw the rest. find out if you wanna go turbo or na then ask what you should get</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
I would never just go and buy a turbo application before doing the basic bolt ons first. Plus, if you turbo it, you will still have restrictive air flow and after all, turbos work off exhaust gases. So, you go ahead and buy a 3000 turbo application and pull maybe 7psi for a little while before you throw a rod <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'>. I'm not trying to come off as a dick, but that's a really ignorant thought.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Why was that an ignorant thought?
He's right. Turbo has the most potential...and most bang for the buck. If you build the motor up right and turbo it, you could push 350+hp with something like $6-7K. That same amount into an n/a with wild cams, custom intake plenum, super high compression, intake, custom tuned header, exhaust, port/polish, etc., etc. might get you 220hp.
And why would you do basic bolt ons first if your gonna turbo it later? &nbsp;You won't use the intake except for the filter element b/c you'll have one custom made from the turbo inlet. &nbsp;You won't use the header, b/c it'll be replaced with a turbo manifold. &nbsp;And you'll need a bigger exhaust if you originally went with one optimized for n/a applications.

"In the N-1 Endurance Race, efficiency is everything. With that in mind, the N-1 exhaust systems were born to satisfy the want for quick throttle response and to effectively handle the rigorous demands of high-horsepower engines. The pipes were engineered with the aid of sophisticated CAD systems to develop the straightest possible lines and least number of bends. The straight-through canister projects from the car at an angle, which helps smooth the exhaust flow. The canister is built from SUS 304 stainless steel and features a 115mm tip with aggressive style. The Super Silencer is included on selected models, which can reduce noise levels by up to 7 decibels. The N-1 Series Mufflers are available for both NA (naturally aspirated) and turbo-charged cars."

That is a direct quote from their site, mind you. &nbsp;I'm guessing the NA thing just has smaller piping. &nbsp;You can send complaints to them, if you like, and ask 'em to change their site.

[LanceS13]

Notice it says n/a and turbocharged cars...not n/a and turbocharged 240SX's. &nbsp;It only comes in the turbo version for our cars b/c, like was said earlier, they were designed for the SR20DET-powered cars.

Doh, my bad... &nbsp;My friend (who's 240 is NA) doesn't even have an N1...no wonder I was confused, lol. &nbsp;I need to pay more attention when he is talking to me.

[Tyler Durdan]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (LanceS13 @ Mar. 04 2002,11:49)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Tyler Durdan @ Mar. 05 2002,9:29)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (minime686 @ Mar. 04 2002,7:30)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">dont get all those bs headers just go ahead and save for a turbo. bolt ons suck my ass and they give marginal preformance gains for the money. id rather spend 3000 bucks on a turbo and screw the rest. find out if you wanna go turbo or na then ask what you should get</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
I would never just go and buy a turbo application before doing the basic bolt ons first. Plus, if you turbo it, you will still have restrictive air flow and after all, turbos work off exhaust gases. So, you go ahead and buy a 3000 turbo application and pull maybe 7psi for a little while before you throw a rod <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'>. I'm not trying to come off as a dick, but that's a really ignorant thought.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Why was that an ignorant thought?
He's right. Turbo has the most potential...and most bang for the buck. If you build the motor up right and turbo it, you could push 350+hp with something like $6-7K. That same amount into an n/a with wild cams, custom intake plenum, super high compression, intake, custom tuned header, exhaust, port/polish, etc., etc. might get you 220hp.
And why would you do basic bolt ons first if your gonna turbo it later? You won't use the intake except for the filter element b/c you'll have one custom made from the turbo inlet. You won't use the header, b/c it'll be replaced with a turbo manifold. And you'll need a bigger exhaust if you originally went with one optimized for n/a applications.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
I'm not saying that a turbo doesn't have the most potential. &nbsp;What I was saying is that Minime said he'd rather just buy a $3k kit and bolt it on rather than build it up. &nbsp;The way he said it made me think of it as an ignorant thought. &nbsp;Kinda of like if I was to say I'm going to hook up a 100 shot of no2 without making the engine bulletproof. &nbsp;My point was that you need to do the little mods to build up to the bigger mods.

[LanceS13]

But no bolt-on will make your engine bullet-proof. &nbsp;Maybe I'm just misunderstanding you, but that's kinda what it sounds like you're saying. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'> &nbsp;You can spend the $600 you wasted on intake/header and buy some better forged pistons--the weakest point on the KA.

[sykikchimp]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (LanceS13 @ Mar. 05 2002,2:35)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">But no bolt-on will make your engine bullet-proof. Maybe I'm just misunderstanding you, but that's kinda what it sounds like you're saying. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'> You can spend the $600 you wasted on intake/header and buy some better forged pistons--the weakest point on the KA.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
That is a Beautiful idea. &nbsp;Of course the labor to install the pistons will be out-rageous (unless you have the equipment to do it yourself. ) Now Bolt-on N/A parts are easily doable with basic tools, and give nice performance for what they are. &nbsp;You also don't loose any reliablity with the "Bolt-On" N/A setup. &nbsp;
Of course as soon as you start doing a more complex Sweet as honey power curve N/a setup with Cams, and pistons, etc.. &nbsp;then of course thats Big Bucks too.

I would love to go Turbo one day. &nbsp;If I do, Pistons will be the First thing I buy. &nbsp;My car's got 90k miles on it.

Also adding basic bolt-ons is a good way for the beginner tuner to get "in-touch" with the Inner-car.. &nbsp;lol &nbsp;And learn how to drive.

[Ni5mo180SX]

I dont know why exhausts pipings such a big deal. Unless you have really small piping and your KA's turbo'd its not a big deal. If you go to big with NA, big deal you lose some torque (not like you weren't gonna lose it sooner or later going down the NA route). If you want to turbo your car get larger piping. Theres not too much to discuss.

[tnord]

exhaust piping is a big deal. crush bends compared to mandrel can reduce flow up to 50% (according to SCC). if systems give the power gain that they claim, roughly 10 hp to the wheels at peak, that's almost an 8% power gain (using 130 as baseling hp, not sure if that's right or not). &nbsp;if you accept the 5z claimed gain of 14hp (iirc), which probably occurs up near 6k revs, that's over a 12% gain (using 110hp, which is nothing but a guess on my part). &nbsp;while the actual numbers might not be big, the marginal benefits are fairly significant. assuming all my guestimating is somewhat accurate of course.

[Ni5mo180SX]

Sorry I didnt make that to clear, I meant "aftermarket exhaust piping". Go with HKS, Apex'i, 5Zigen etc. Just make sure its the size you want and thats it.

[240sxtreme]

are we talking about a s14 or s13? &nbsp;

for intakes, injen seems to be the most popular, you'll want the CAI for dry days. &nbsp;I take mine off when it rains.

for headers, Hotshot seems to be the way to go, supposedly there were fitment problems 2 designs ago..but I've installed 2 different HS headers on my s13 with NO fitment problems. &nbsp;on the s13, it does not replace the cat. &nbsp;I believe it does replace one of the "2" cats on the s14 though.

for exhaust, if you plan to stay NA, which I think you are if you're buying intake/headers, then stick with 2.25-2.5.

if you plan to turbo...save your money, deal with being really slow right now, and save your money. &nbsp;you can get an entry level turbo setup for 2500-3000...why spend ~900 bucks on stuff that you won't be able to use (with the exception of the exhaust). &nbsp;also, if you go turbo....N1 all the way.

[tnord]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I believe it does replace one of the "2" cats on the s14 though.
</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

actually there is only one cat, the second one is just a resonator to quiet things down, just like on the intake

[sykikchimp]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (240sxtreme @ Mar. 06 2002,5:05)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">are we talking about a s14 or s13?

for intakes, injen seems to be the most popular, you'll want the CAI for dry days. I take mine off when it rains.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
You know that is fairly pointless... &nbsp;The Intake will only draw in water if it is pretty much completely submerged. &nbsp;Thats SERIOUS water. &nbsp;The small amount that will get drawn in on rainy days will be evaporated WAY before it gets to your piston. &nbsp;
Also the Check valves that AEM made for them Sucks (not from experience.. &nbsp;totally hearsay). &nbsp;I read a review from someone on a honda page that they actually lost 3 hp after installing it. &nbsp;Completely defeating the purpose of the CAI in the first place. &nbsp;They said the engine sucked almost all the air through the check valve.