Plastic switch pushers on pedals broken off

[JerkFaceJason]

91 240sx

Apparently, the little switches(for the lights/stuff) that the pedals push on when you press/release them arent getting pushed.

I noticed this because pieces of cracked plastic were on my floorboard which were the bushings i guess that put pressure on the switches, and my brake lights wont turn off, even when the car is off. Upon looking at the pedals, i see that the 2 switches on the clutch (1 for starting 2nd for ?) and the 2 switches on the brake (lights and ?)


Now, heres the question. Is there ANY easy way to fix this short of removing the pedal? there is almost no space to work with and i dont really have any good tools /socket extensions stuff.

I agree that removing the pedal(s) would be the easiest fix, but i have about 5 days before i leave town for school, and i dont want to remove the brake pedal and not beable to re attach it!

please help?

[the head]

tape a few washers to the brake pedal this should get it close enough to operate the switch

[JerkFaceJason]

thanks alot!

I ended up using pennies (lol) and duct tape, which worked pretty well on the clutch. However, that was only possible because you can push the clutch down and get some space to work with.

The problem with the brake pedal is that even when mashed on it never goes further than a few mm away from the switches, and with the various brackets and other jagged metal only inches away from that, it makes it impossible to get to them.

So, i guess the only way to get the room i need is to let air in the brake lines to get the brake pedal to sink the floor.

Question - Can i get the brake pedal to the floor without having to bleed my entire brake system after I'm done with it?

[caall99]

you want to put air IN your brake lines?? :duh:

[JerkFaceJason]

how else can i get the god damn brake pedal to sink so i can work on it?

[caall99]

oh you mean just to work on it. you might have to do it that way then. make sure that if any air gets into the system, it remains in ONE brake line, otherwise its going to be more of a bitch than it should be to get it out. that much air shouldn't be entering anyway. the master cylinder draws fluid from the master cylinder, not the brake lines, and upon brake pressure a valve closes so that the fluid doesn't just get pumped back into the resevoir. sorry that i don't have any better ideas.

[JerkFaceJason]

thanks for all the help guys, i think im just gonna bleed one brakeline by pushing the pedal all the way down and do it that way.

and even if i do have to bleed all of them, it will be way better than having my brake lights stay on all the time!

[projectRDM]

The switches unscrew easily out of the pedals. There is no need to pull the pedals, or depress them. Undo the locknut and twist them out by hand. Takes literally 10 seconds.

You obviously haven't even surveyed what's required if you're thinking the pedals have to be dropped.

[BIGBX1]

I had my brake master cylinder burn due to the hose from the crank case to the valve cover getting too hot and burning up.This caused damage to the mastercylinder and the hose is gone.This is on a redtop SR,I had to install a used master cylinder and rewire due to damage at the connector.After that repair I installed a new brake switch due to rear lights stay on at all times causing a draw.
The switch would operate fine with the button pressed but when installed would not work at all. I had to fab a clip on the backing due to the button falling out never to be found again.
So far this seem to work just fine,later this month I will go to nissan and get the corrrect part.
Here is a pic of the damage to the master cylinder from manifold heat,I will wrap my new manifold this weekend.
Sorry I could not post a pic at this time.

[g6civcx]

The second switch is for the cruise control. As soon as you hit the pedal it cancels cruise.

You have to use a little bit of force to break the nut loose. There is no need to intentionally suck air into the brakes.

[projectRDM]

I had my brake master cylinder burn due to the hose from the crank case to the valve cover getting too hot and burning up.This caused damage to the mastercylinder and the hose is gone.This is on a redtop SR,I had to install a used master cylinder and rewire due to damage at the connector.After that repair I installed a new brake switch due to rear lights stay on at all times causing a draw.
The switch would operate fine with the button pressed but when installed would not work at all. I had to fab a clip on the backing due to the button falling out never to be found again.
So far this seem to work just fine,later this month I will go to nissan and get the corrrect part.
Here is a pic of the damage to the master cylinder from manifold heat,I will wrap my new manifold this weekend.
Sorry I could not post a pic at this time.

And you dredged up a year old post to discuss a completely unrelated problem for what reason?