View Full Version : sr20 might be goin down the drain
Sorry for the sob story in advance!! Hey guys got some serious issues, i think its all cause of the bullshyt manual boost controller i bought a few months ago on ebay, i hooked it up and turned it up bout 11 or 12lbs and was runnin good but occasionaly spiking bad and so i took it off and now a few months later terrible knocking noise inside the block, must be the piston fried or loose bangin a valve or something in there, now i took it to the mechanic and said motor is done, but its not at the point where theres no chance at least thats wat i think, it only knocks at 2500 to 3000 rpms pretty rough since i was one to hardly ever beat on the car, now how to go about fixing it or ne advice would be great. thanks for the opinions!!! Only had it a year cant be over yet!!!
thanks guys
kota2240
08-09-2005, 06:27 PM
Its probably a spun bearing, ill post more info in the morning. I had the same problem you described.
jdm_eg6
08-09-2005, 06:28 PM
zilvia's being gay and not letting me log out so i'm stuck on my brothers user name.. but anyway, i made the same mistake you did, but worse. I baught a mbc off of egay. installed it, set it at 10psi and drove it around my area testing it out. No spiking at all. So off i went on the highway. vR6 comes along, looks at me, and i leave him 10 cars behind. Then all of a sudden no power at 6k rpm and a whoooole bunch of white smoke. Figured it was a head gasket, but when i got home and tore it apart, melted a piston and scored the cylinder. So now i'm having my cylinders bored .020 over and i got cp pistons, cometic hg, and arp studs. And a front mount to keep things a little cooler. Good luck with that. :bow:
-jdmized240sx
the head
08-10-2005, 08:06 AM
so really in both of your cases it was not the manual boost controlers fault it was your own for not having the proper equipment to back an increase in boost therefore you blew u your motor, which you promptly blame on a part that you 1. bought from Egay cuz you are a cheap ass and 2. didnt think about the other things that said part would affect.
I run a dejon tool two stage MBC and I havent blown my car up so it is not the MBC that is the problem it is the monkey with the wrench
jdm_eg6
08-10-2005, 08:37 AM
and this monkey has learned a valuable lesson. thanks..
-jdmized240sx
kota2240
08-11-2005, 07:05 AM
Mine knocked around 2-3k. It would not knock at idle or above that range that i listed. Anyways i took the engine out in one day, and began the process of removing parts. Flip the motor upside down and take the oil pan off and the large one that covers the whole bottom. There will be a couple more things to take off before you see the rods and bearings. Everything else is easy. Just take each bearing off each rod and make sure the inside of the bearing is not copper. If you see copper then that is the bearing that needs to be replaced. I just replaced all of 8 of mine for like 40.00 at a nissan dealership. The part numbers are on the bearings. Make sure you download the s14 FSM from here, same as s13 for the torque specs
420sx
08-11-2005, 10:39 AM
well. everyone learns by stepping on the rake. just dont step on it twice
yep thats what i figured, and i dont have the tools or the engine hoist to do it so im off to the mechanic to charge me an ass load of money or find someone to help i appreciate all the help guys thanks.
chris
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